HID Ignition problems

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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 07:05 PM
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HID Ignition problems

So, I posted this in the 4G section, but since there are so few members over there, and not too many well-informed veterans, I figured i would post it over here in the 3G section too


My Passenger side HID headlight is giving me problems, and i just wanted to get some feedback...

I feel like a noobie asking this, but when i turn on the headlights, the bulb wont ignite... i have to turn the headlights Off & On like 2-3 times until it finally ignites...

Should i focus on the bulbs? Or does this seem like a Ballast or electrical problem? I have Kaixen 6000K D2S bulbs in there, so I want to take this into my own hands, before I go to the dealership. Bulbs have been in for about 4 months.


Thanks
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 12:17 AM
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i would just replace the bulb Allon, happened to me on my ua6...
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 09:18 PM
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With D2S bulbs, the ignitor is separate from the bulb, check the wire that runs to the bulbs to make sure nothing is wrong with them. Also swap the bulbs side to side and see if the problem still occurs. It could be the ballast, ignitor or bulb...
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 09:51 PM
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I am having the same issue. Any luck with changing the bulb?
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 12:44 AM
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im with cmeance, check all that shit. try switching bulbs w/eachother(right to left, left to right) see if problems happen w/ the other side.. if it does.. obviously its the bulb.. if not .. its ignitor or ballast.
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 09:25 AM
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Well, for the past 4 months.. ive just been making sure to turn on the car, before igniting the headlights....

I know switching the bulbs will help me zero in on the problem... ive just been to busy to get that done (its actually alot of work to switch bulbs)

hopefully ill get to it when im on vacation next month
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 07:28 AM
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I would say the problems is within the ignitor/ballast. I had this happen to me on an aftermarket hid kit on my old car. And it was defintely the ignitor. A bit surprising you would have these problems on the 4G considering your using OEM equipment.

Like others have said as well tho, check/swap the bulbs too.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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Loose connection
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by BLACKURA_NY
.....Should i focus on the bulbs? Or does this seem like a Ballast or electrical problem? I have Kaixen 6000K D2S bulbs in there, so I want to take this into my own hands, before I go to the dealership. Bulbs have been in for about 4 months.


Thanks
I would go right to the aftermarket bulbs first my brother. I have yet to see any of the oem stuff fail on this model as of yet. I am SURE you of all people also cleared your lights so there is the human factor in the reassembly as well. (not trying to insult) Once outside influences get involved in any way shape or form it usually is the culprit of some bizarre issue. Its a slight chance the draw on the 6k bulbs my have cooked the oem ballast as well. Try the bulb swap as miserable as that is. And cross your fingers you dont have to pull the headlight out again. Yuck
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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I am beginning to really think, it is the bulb... I posted this back in November, and i have never had a problem since... But again, I am simply turning on the car, before igniting the headlights...

My only thoughts are... if the bulb is faulty/failing... wouldn't it have given out completely by now?? Its been over 4 months, and i obviously use my headlights several times a day, as i drive a lot...

Ugh... i guess one weekend, i will take the front end apart and swap bulbs... to either side, and see if thats the culprit....

i am not sure if this problem still exists, because i never even turn on the headlights before starting the car... i guess ill try that tonight and see
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 02:46 PM
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My thinking is its the bulb. The ballast generates the power to keep the bulb burning. The ignitor fires the bulb. If the resistance is too high in the bulb the ballast wont have the power to deliver to the ignitor which in turn wont fire the bulb. A couple switch flicks may build enough juice to get it going. Just my theory. If you have a loose connection than some part isnt getting all the power it needs to do its job. Could be ballast or ignitor at that point.
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 05:28 PM
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^ i think you may be 100% right

when you ignite it, is when it sends the 10,000volts ... so flipping them off and on, two or three times must be building up the impedance or resistance... (i'm no electrical engineer)

either way, ill have to order a spare set of kaixens... if i take it apart and find out it is the bulb, it would be dumb not to have a back up set up handy
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Old Apr 14, 2010 | 05:30 PM
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bro. just noticed the sig/avatar

i remember you were parting out the 3G.... New MDX is a pretty sweet ride. I see the optional 20" ZDX too, eh?

Id ditch my 4G for 2010 MDX in a heartbeat... but i need the slightly better fuel economy.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 12:27 AM
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Dont take the front bumper off! There is a good write up around here that shows how to do it from under the car. Remove the front wheel, then the fenderwell, and you have access to the ignitor and the bulb "pin". Took me 15 minutes to change the bulbs on top of 10 minutes of taking the wheel off on each side.

Anyways on my setup I have noticed that the bulb comes on when the ballast is cold. Once its been on for a while and i turn the lights off and turn them back on. The passenger one stays out till the next day. I used stock replacement bulbs over a year ago since the driver's side blew out then.
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 08:42 AM
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I've been avoiding 3G lately.. what happened to you 3G Racinghart? Also, I don't believe the fuel economy on the 2G MDX is that much different than the 4G TL

Regarding the issue.. since it's only one side and the bulb fires fine after a couple of tries, I would do a simple voltage check. Verify the dc in and ac out to make sure the ballast is in spec, I would then switch the igniters to see if the problem carries over. Typically this type of issue is igniter / ballast related. If it's the igniter either it's not building enough load in the cap to fire the lamp or the timing from the switch is of / faulty. If it were the ballast I would think you would see issues during operation not preop so I would focus on the igniters. Replacing the igniter or ballast to one side will probably be cheaper than replacing both bulbs as well.
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