Good day everyone. I’ve been following this forum for 2 years now and I have always found a solution for my Acura. Now I find myself in the dirt because I don’t know what to do.
I own an Acura TL 2005 6 speed manual transmission. My clutch remained about 1-2 inches low 2 days ago. No slipping, no lost power or issues while driving it, so I figured it must be the cylinders. I replaced the master cylinder, and after I was finished, the clutch remained completely loose. As though as there was nothing connected. I ordered the slave cylinder which I will replace once I get it. My question is: how am I supposed to bleed if the pedal shows zero resistance(pedal to the floor or normal position) Do I have to loosen the fluid line from the slave cylinder? Do I have to make any extra work on the slave even though I’m not replacing it now?

 

Before installing a new master cylinder I always bench bleed them first; this ensures 100% of all the air inside the MC is bled out (between seals for instance), and I think it saves you time (and your back, most importantly) bleeding it once it's installed on the car.
To bench bleed; Place the MC in a vice, fill the reservoir, then attach a soft flexible hose to the MC with the outlet of the hose looped back into the reservoir. Then pump the cylinder until you no longer see any bubbles coming out of the hose.

While you're waiting on the new slave, I would leave the bleeder on the slave cracked with a hose coming off it into a bottle and just baby-sit the reservoir for about an hour or 2, continuing to top it off. This is "gravity bleeding". This should at least give you a LITTLE bit of pressure, then bleed as normal from there.

Just curious what your bleeding technique is? 1 man, 2 man, vacuum?....

 

If you vacuum bleed the clutch you may not have gotten all the air out. You NEED to do a 2 man effort on this clutch.

 

Get the original Nisin brand clutch master cylinder, or else you'll have noise problems. I speak from experience!

Look on ebay, search 'Nisin clutch cylinder'. No need to spend big $$$ for the OEM from Acura when you can get the same one without the Honda name on the package.
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I honestly never thought about. I watched some YouTube vids and was able to do the master cylinder. From there, I watched some bleeding techniques, but since there is literally zero pressure on the clutch right now, I hit a wall and was trying to get an answer. How would I do the 2 man bleeding technique? What does one do while the other does what?

 

I always had good luck with; 1 man pumps the clutch pedal 3-5 times, then holds the pedal down.
With the pedal held down, #2 quickly opens then closes the bleeder. If #2 doesn't do this quick enough it risks bottoming the pedal to the floor and that lack-of positive flow of fluid could risk introducing air back into the line @ the bleeder. I always close the bleeder during a solid flow of fluid coming out.


Repeat ad nauseam.

Yes, bleeding hydraulics is one of God's cruelest inventions.

 

When you say open the bleeder on the slave, you mean remove the little cap or loosen the 10mm bolt?

 

The little rubber condom cap just keeps dirt and debris outta the bleeder nipple.

You gotta loosen/tighten the bleeder with a box wrench to bleed the air out.

 

Ok. And also, I didn’t do anything to the master, haven’t bled it or anything. Should I Bleed the master like you just said so I can get some pressure? Because right now the clutch is to the floor, if I move it back up it remains there zero pressure!!!

 

Use a rubber hose on the nipple when bleeding so it keeps it clean and most importantly, doesn't reintroduce air bubbles back into the system. The slave cylinder is in a tight spot.