I just put on a set of Hawk Pads and Rotora slotted rotors on the front of my 04 6mt. SOMETIMES when I turn left somethings grinding on the passenger front.. And SOMETIMES when I hit the brakes they make a high pitch noise on the front passenger side. My buddy said that its the pads, would Hawk cover this? I bought these from Excelerate, but he has very slow response time to pm's.

 

First - did you follow hawks procedure for bedding the pads and follow rotoras instruction on bedding the rotors?
your buddy is guessing without inspection- thats not a normal thing for the Hawk pads to do - may even be an error on install procedure and lubing
Go back and check it out- hawks dont make noises like that
Excelerate runs a shop and internet parts biz--- is likely a member or several forums and has to answer a lot of PMs every day
Why not send an email DIRECT to him thru the main company website and ask his opinion on the problem- or call him direct- info on his website
But I would go back and recheck the work first!!

 

I feel as though its a combination of installation error, and incorrect bedding procedures. But again I am just guessing.

 

Not much involved with installation. Pretty basic. No instructions in either box for bedding. Could it be too late?

 

never to late- the hawk instructions were right on the side of the box
here is a good method
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
If you didnt grease the right places you can get noise- if a retainer pin is not in tight...recheck the work first- then go bed them in a few times, takes a few times~~

 

I just replaced the pads and rotors on my 05 M/T TL with EBC Greenstuffs and slotted Rotoras after 76,000 miles on the original pads (lots of highway miles.) Interestingly, both the EBC and Rotora instruction sheets made no mention of a bedding process; they just said to brake easily for a few hundred miles. Well, my left front pad squealed like a greased pig. I went back and redid the pad installation making sure that all was greased properly (it was.) The brakes still squealed. I then used the Hawk bedding process of 6 to 8 hard stops from 50 mph to 5 mph. Still squealed a bit. The next day I redid the bedding process. Finally, no more squealing.

I wonder about your grinding noise on left turns. Since the pads should "float" without brake pressure, what might cause the grinding sound?

Also, the EBC Greenstuffs came with a shim adhered to the back of the pad. Do the Hawks? If not, did you reuse the OEM shims being careful to grease both sides?

 

I couldn't find the molykote grease mentioned in the service manual. So i used spray brake quiet on both sides of the OEM shims and the back of the pads.

 

gee whiz no wonder you have a problem!
Take them out and grease with the right stuff to start with
Hawk has its backing plate already attached
DO NOT apply slippery grease to both side of an OE shim type setup-
only lube the part that contacts the caliper piston and caliper fingers
You dont want the shim sliding on the pad- you want the whole unit sliding against the outer parts where it is supposed to
DO lube the backing plate that touches the caliper

they sticky brake stuff goes between the pad metal backing and a seperate shim to keep them as 1 so no noise issues!!!-
Brake Caliper Grease is sold in small 1 dollar packs- enought for your car, at parts store or the big tub for 8 bucks.

 

For the M/T brake setup, the Acura service manual simply says apply Molykote to the back of the brake pads. It doesn't mention the shims at all, even though mine were clearly there, and separate, when I took out the old pads... definitely dried up black grease in there (with never a squeal.)

For the A/T brake setup, the Acura service manual states to "Apply Molykote to the brake pad side of the inner pad shim A, inner pad shim B, both sides of the outer pad shim C, outer pad shim D, the back of the brake pads, and to other indicated areas."

Seems like Acura definitely wants the shim to slide on the pad.

 

if anyone is using the OE pads as replacement- do some research - there are many way better options, and they have a backing plate on them already. grease and go!
I stand corrected on acura method for their pads with shim use, 3rd time this year I have been wrong~

 

So don't reuse the stock shims? And the spray quiet doesn't work? And brake grease from autozone is the same as molykote?

 

Assuming the new pads have a shim already attached-you can tell by looking,
do not add any of the OE shims, that will cause a binding in the system.
If no shims attached- clean and transfer the OE shims and lube per the correct instructions above
It needs to run tight tolerance, but not THAT tight
The synthetic caliper grease is best for our use- higher temp and water resistant (I wash my TL a lot).
It is moly-yada, and many members use the CRC brand $8 tub, or the smaller $3 packs, Ask the store about it. SYNTHETIC caliper grease
Dont need any other stuff in there, and make sure to wipe off old grease as much as able from inside the caliper before install of new pads.
No- do not spray brake cleaner inside the caliper- damage to rubber dirt seal can occur- then dirt gets inside the oring for the piston and goodbye braking~

 

I have these on my 04 Cobra. No matter what you put on them, how you break them in, it seems to be the nature of the pad. It stops much better but I'm thinking of putting the stock ones back one. Tired of sounding like a school bus when coming to a stop. As far as my TLS, I don't drive it hard enough to step up with more pads, but I'm trying to find something else when the time comes to replace them.

 

Would the hawk pad shim be noticeable? Would it be able to seperate from the hawk pad itself? The OEM shim itself is a little strange, being angled to only cover one piston. Btw, when I said spray quiet I did not mean brake cleaner.

 

I was just making a comment NOT to use cleaner- nothing about your method

On the other cars with noise- I had no noise probs on my HPS pads- did youproperly clean the rotors before pad change?- they are very picky about that for sure- any other pad material on the rotor will result in noise prob- see hawks site for details

The hawk shim is normally glued to the back of the thing- stops any noise from shim shifting without grease on it

 

spray quiet- from my memory- is sprayed on the pad material itself? to soften it slightly?
thats like using belt quiet- not going to solve the real problem

 

Anybody No where to get front pads for 07' tls, cheap?

 

I'll try and redo them to see.

 

07 type s- you have the brembo front brakes right?-
your choice is limited to mainly OE pads or Hawk HPS pads
which will work better- may have less dust, and do stop the car very well.
With a larger budget- the choices in rotors comes into play- but not more pad options.

 

Hey doesn't the base TL have a smaller brake system?

 

I have similiar issues with my Hawk Pads that were installed about 1 month ago. I've bead them three times now per hawks and heel toe's instructions and still have no luck. Everything was done exactly like it should be and they still squel under initial pressure then it goes away with more pedal pressure.

I've installed, bled, or beaded brake pads at least 200 times and just can't seem to get rid of the squeal. The rotors were turned professionally by a Honda mechanic with the newer style on car lathe.

I plan on dissasembling the calipers on Friday to take a look at them.

 

sam- the type-p has a single piston front caliper like all the TL before it
they all have the same rear brake calipers and rotors

Trevor- how many miles? TL calipers have been known to fail if the fluid doesnt get flushed starting at year 3 of the cars life and every year after
My 01 needed a front- meaning both fronts, so it got all 4 and a master cylinder by the time I was done.

 

Yeah, my squeal only happens at low speed and low brake pressure also. Saturday I will be redoing them.

 

07 S with 21K.
I was going to replace the flush the system in about 10K miles and put in some good stuff.

 

Redid the brakes, took off stock shims, used brake molykote grease, and now I have no more grinding noise when turning left. BUT, MY BRAKES SQUEAL LIKE HELL WHENEVER I AM HALF PRESSURE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I called a bunch of places to get someone else to put them on so I have somebody to blame, but every place had me talk them through my installation. Which everyone said they would have done the same thing and that they can't help me.

 

so you ran hawks that have their own shim/backing plate glued on, WITH the oe shims?
is that correct
If so that put some undue strain on things from lack of room

What do the pads look like- any shiny face to them??- thats pad glaze- easily cured
Have you gone back out and done the heeltoe method since you put it together this time?

 

I would also check the metal arm that is the pad low level indicator- the squeeler tab as its called- attached to 1 pad for each side of the car

The part that sticks past the side of the backing plate about 3mm on the pad side, so when the pads get low- that metal touches the rotor on brake application and makes a terrible noise
Its possible it got bent or installed on the wrong side of the rotor-or the both got installed on one rotor,,,, they go on the inside pad.
Been a while since I looked at brembos but iirc those pads are the same as every other car made- they have the warning device

 

Your correct, they do have the warning tabs in place.

Once the stock shims are removed he will need to bed them again as we know and as long as the stock rotors aren't too distorted everything should be fine. I had to do mine twice but it finally worked. Funny thing because I love the pads and did not want to get rid of them. Stupid stock shims.

I looked at my friend and he said why did you put those back in? I said cause I've done hundreds of brake jobs and I'm an idiot!

 

I actually called hawk and got there bedding process directly from them. Which I did as soon as I put them on the second time, they also said to hit the rotors and pads with some 220 grit sand paper to get rid of any possible glaze. Still no dice. I will try the bedding process again.

 

the heeltoe method (I helped write it) is based on several companies method- it describes in detail so you dont short yourself on the job- or go too slow and actually STOP during the process which causes glazing
Its very important to gently heat the pads all the way thru- then get them hot hot so a transfer layer of ~liquified~ pad material gets on the rotor.
then the cool down drive is all important!!!!

Normally hawk forbids the sanding of its brake pads- but in this case of trying to solve a problem--- they always say to clean the rotors- normally with 130 grit sandpaper followed by a wet cleaning to remove particles.

The car in questiopn only surfaced one rotor- and used the same pads- recipe for disaster IMO

 

I wouldn't say I surfaced any rotor. I touched one spot with some sand paper and didn't like the results so quit. I'll try the bed in again.

 

you didnt like the sandpaper results huh? they knock off the old residue and leave a clean surface when you are finished
If you have any of the bogus pad buildup from running with shims- which forced the pads to contact the rotors improperly- you should do it all correctly and see if that solves the problem- rather than do a 1/10 job and wonder why- and keep blaming the pads

Not to mention the rotora rotors do have a procedure for bed in too
None of the install or beding was done correctly- and you still expect good results
Everyone needs a dream!

 

Is there a need to be smart ass about it? I am about to go crazy, from the noise. The sand paper left deep gouges in the face of the rotor. Unfortunately having paid good money for the rotors/pads and no experience with sanding/gouging a rotor surface, I needed some advice. If this is now just a thread in "Your Account"summary that you come to just to tell me that I don't know what I'm doing and not help me get to a solution, please just don't say anything at all. But all help earlier was appreciated.