Grinding/Clicking noise when accelerating - cold weather only
Grinding/Clicking noise when accelerating - cold weather only
When my wheels are turned all the way left, or especially to the right, there is a sort of grinding/rubbing/clicking noise. Here's the thing, it only happens when the car was sitting overnight in 20 degree weather and only during acceleration. After 2 minutes of driving it disappears. I was getting my tie rods replaced and asked my mechanic to check the CV joints. He checked them both. Took them apart and told me it looks fine, no leaks, the boot is intact and grease inside. Now I'm puzzled because I was certain its a failing CV on the right side.
Clutch and flywheel have been replaced 6 months ago along with MT fluid (Synchromesh). Tires are less than a month old. Outer tie rods just replaced and alignment done. New brake pads about 2 months old. Oh and my brembo caliper failed on the right, so that was replaced as well. 91K on the car. Any ideas? Thanks.
Clutch and flywheel have been replaced 6 months ago along with MT fluid (Synchromesh). Tires are less than a month old. Outer tie rods just replaced and alignment done. New brake pads about 2 months old. Oh and my brembo caliper failed on the right, so that was replaced as well. 91K on the car. Any ideas? Thanks.
Last edited by Hotwired05; Jan 29, 2014 at 09:18 AM.
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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From: The west side of the Potomac River
CV joints can still click even if the boot is intact. the grease in the boot is cold which does not properly lubricate the CV joint, once the grease warms up the car is fine. your CV joints may very well be wearing since you has getting the click.
I had the click in my TL...only cold weather (one was the outer, the other was teh inner causing vibration). lived with it for about 8k miles. replaced both axles...no more click or vibrations on accelerating in cold weather.
I had the click in my TL...only cold weather (one was the outer, the other was teh inner causing vibration). lived with it for about 8k miles. replaced both axles...no more click or vibrations on accelerating in cold weather.
CV joints can still click even if the boot is intact. the grease in the boot is cold which does not properly lubricate the CV joint, once the grease warms up the car is fine. your CV joints may very well be wearing since you has getting the click.
I had the click in my TL...only cold weather (one was the outer, the other was teh inner causing vibration). lived with it for about 8k miles. replaced both axles...no more click or vibrations on accelerating in cold weather.
I had the click in my TL...only cold weather (one was the outer, the other was teh inner causing vibration). lived with it for about 8k miles. replaced both axles...no more click or vibrations on accelerating in cold weather.
Now imagine if the car is lowered to the point the axle is no longer straight when going in a straight line. Now it's having to allow movement as it does when you're turning or hitting bumps but for hours at a time especially long trips on the freeway. It would be like slightly turning the wheel for an entire trip. This is where excessive wear comes in and even heat related issues because the joint was never meant for the car to be "turning" for hours on end and no provisions for heat rejection needed to be made. If the car is severely lowered it should have a synthetic grease to deal with the heat.
Usually if the CV joint is in good shape, even without enough lube they're generally quiet. It may not be a bad idea to just replace them.
Did I go off topic lol.
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: The west side of the Potomac River
^^naw...i think you you gave a very good explaination of the inner workings of what happens to the axle. based on the OP sig...he's lowered. this is a great explaination!!
IHC.
Thanks a lot guys. Yes it makes sense, that's exactly what I kept telling my mechanic but his mentality is when that sh*t falls off, only THEN is it broken. And to clear it up, I am still on stock struts. Have the TEINs and camber kit laying at home
still yet to install them but when I do I'll keep in mind not to go too low. Thanks!
6mt here and when its cold out mine will click and pop when turning and when going straight down the road for about 1 mile of driving. i just do super light aceleration until it goes away. spring needs to get here so i can replace them both
OP if the clicking just started, ask your mechanic to repack the joints for you. if it has been doing it for a while, you might consider getting new axles.
and stay FAR FAR FAR FAR did I say FAR away from the mainstream crap ones. Go Acura or Raxles.
I am at 134K and still on OEM ones so I know the Acura parts are good
and stay FAR FAR FAR FAR did I say FAR away from the mainstream crap ones. Go Acura or Raxles.
I am at 134K and still on OEM ones so I know the Acura parts are good
Last edited by YeuEmMaiMai; Feb 1, 2014 at 01:36 PM.
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I was just going to post this exact same question, but I feel as if a reasonable explanation was posted.
My issue sounds more like a creaking than anything, but who knows what kind of words we assign to random car sounds haha. My issue is only when accelerating while turning, not if I turn off throttle. Mostly when turning left but sometimes when turning right, and way more noticeable when cold. It will not do it when the wheels are locked to the left or right when turning, only when halfway. My axles had no play and the boots looked great when I was under it.
I was starting to suspect a strut mount. There is a TSB about a similar issue on the Odysseys
Service Bulletin 11-038 June 21, 2011 Applies To: 2011 Odyssey – ALL Popping, Knocking, or Creaking in the Front While Turning at Low Speeds SYMPTOM There is a dull popping, knocking, or creaking sound coming from the front of the vehicle at low speeds, usually while turning. A test-drive may not duplicate the noise. If you have a vehicle that reportedly has this symptom, do the repair procedure. PROBABLE CAUSE The bump stop contacts the top of the front damper body, or the damper shaft self-locking nut is loose. CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply Shin-Etsu grease around the top of both front dampers. Retorque both front damper shaft self-locking nuts.
My issue sounds more like a creaking than anything, but who knows what kind of words we assign to random car sounds haha. My issue is only when accelerating while turning, not if I turn off throttle. Mostly when turning left but sometimes when turning right, and way more noticeable when cold. It will not do it when the wheels are locked to the left or right when turning, only when halfway. My axles had no play and the boots looked great when I was under it.
I was starting to suspect a strut mount. There is a TSB about a similar issue on the Odysseys
Service Bulletin 11-038 June 21, 2011 Applies To: 2011 Odyssey – ALL Popping, Knocking, or Creaking in the Front While Turning at Low Speeds SYMPTOM There is a dull popping, knocking, or creaking sound coming from the front of the vehicle at low speeds, usually while turning. A test-drive may not duplicate the noise. If you have a vehicle that reportedly has this symptom, do the repair procedure. PROBABLE CAUSE The bump stop contacts the top of the front damper body, or the damper shaft self-locking nut is loose. CORRECTIVE ACTION Apply Shin-Etsu grease around the top of both front dampers. Retorque both front damper shaft self-locking nuts.
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