Flushing or draining the tranny fluid?
Flushing or draining the tranny fluid?
I am looking to change my transmission fluid this week to royal purple atf or mobile 1 atf. I am wondering what the pro's and con's are to draining vs flushing?
I know that draining will not get all the fluid out of the transmission so you have to keep going back 3 or 4 times before the new transmission fluid is full, so I am considering going with the flush which I did on my 2000 honda accord exv6 which were known for bad transmission, but it was fine, it actually performed amazigly better with the royal purple atf.
Let me know.
I know that draining will not get all the fluid out of the transmission so you have to keep going back 3 or 4 times before the new transmission fluid is full, so I am considering going with the flush which I did on my 2000 honda accord exv6 which were known for bad transmission, but it was fine, it actually performed amazigly better with the royal purple atf.
Let me know.
what is wrong with flushing it though? alot of people like it, and recommend it and alot of people don't. I did it in my accord no problems. I don't have time to go to my mechanic 3 or 4 times to drain fill drain fill ya know?
You answered your own question, do the flush!
I know it sucks this way but Acura does not recommend flushing and it even says so in the manual. There must be a reason they feel so strongly about this. I would be afraid to damage my trans.
I will talk to my mechanic and ask em when I get my 4 cross drilled slotted rotors on, on thursday.
I ment to ask, if I just remove JUST the resonator and install a aftermarket one (dynomax/magnaflow) what do I get? hp gains? poor emissions?
what exhaust note do you compare it to? as you know I am struggling with this.
I ment to ask, if I just remove JUST the resonator and install a aftermarket one (dynomax/magnaflow) what do I get? hp gains? poor emissions?
what exhaust note do you compare it to? as you know I am struggling with this.
I will talk to my mechanic and ask em when I get my 4 cross drilled slotted rotors on, on thursday.
I ment to ask, if I just remove JUST the resonator and install a aftermarket one (dynomax/magnaflow) what do I get? hp gains? poor emissions?
what exhaust note do you compare it to? as you know I am struggling with this.
I ment to ask, if I just remove JUST the resonator and install a aftermarket one (dynomax/magnaflow) what do I get? hp gains? poor emissions?
what exhaust note do you compare it to? as you know I am struggling with this.
Personally I don't think you will notice anything by removing just the resonator. It will not effect emmissions because you are not messing with emmissions equipment (such as a catalytic converter). You will be MUCH happier with the tone if you remove both resonator and midmuffler and put in Dynomax resonator. Trust, me, I removed just the resonator first on the advice of my muffler guy and was back the next week to do it right. WHat I described sounds close to the tone of a G35
Last edited by TLAdvanced; May 31, 2009 at 08:00 PM.
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flushing the transmission is bad for it for numerous reasons:
1. The detergents in there help break apart vital components for the transmission, therefore reducing it's life.
2. The detergents are never completely washed out, they will mix with the fluid and ruin the lubrication properties of it.
3. It can/may dislodge big pieces of stuff inside the transmission and have it float into something that it may damage.
1. The detergents in there help break apart vital components for the transmission, therefore reducing it's life.
2. The detergents are never completely washed out, they will mix with the fluid and ruin the lubrication properties of it.
3. It can/may dislodge big pieces of stuff inside the transmission and have it float into something that it may damage.
then why did they ever come up with flushing machines? This situation confuses me so much lol...If I could change the tranny fluid in 1 shot id do it, but I dont have time to go back and forth to the mechanic and change it!

You don't go back 3 or 4 times.
The mechanic drains 3 qts and then replaces the 3 qts. Drives around the block using all 5 gears. Repeat. Repeat one more time. = 3x3 drain and refill.
It's one trip to the mechanic.
Acura specifically says in it's internal Service Technician news letter NOT to fulsh the Acura trannies. Drain & Refill is the Acura official method.
BTW - you need to spend time in the 3G Garage reading up instead of starting new threads on topics that have been beat to death.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-garage-faq-3g-tl-newbies-553554/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-garage-faq-3g-tl-newbies-553554/
it was invented before they had such complicated and delicate transmissions. You can change the fluid in one shot as bearcat94 has just stated above
Both Amsoil and Royal Purple claim to be Honda Z1 compatible, although the ones who have switched claim firmer shifts. I believe this to be a good thing as the slippage (even when normal) is what damages clutch packs. I am switching to Amsoil when I flush (3X3).
flushing the transmission is bad for it for numerous reasons:
1. The detergents in there help break apart vital components for the transmission, therefore reducing it's life.
2. The detergents are never completely washed out, they will mix with the fluid and ruin the lubrication properties of it.
3. It can/may dislodge big pieces of stuff inside the transmission and have it float into something that it may damage.
1. The detergents in there help break apart vital components for the transmission, therefore reducing it's life.
2. The detergents are never completely washed out, they will mix with the fluid and ruin the lubrication properties of it.
3. It can/may dislodge big pieces of stuff inside the transmission and have it float into something that it may damage.
Every transmission flush I ever did (and it must have been in the hundreds) never did any of those three things.
#1 - you use the recommended trans fluid. Nothing else.
#2 - because of #1, there's no other detergents. Trans fluid has enough in them as it is.
#3 - it uses the internals of the tranny to do the work.
So why is there this misconception about the process?
And as for the 'complicated transmission' aspect of it, we did thousands of flushes, with not one single return for service that wasn't fixed with another flush, and that was extremely rare. They ran the gambit from the pan-style on up, including lots of Hondas.
Last edited by CocheseUGA; Jun 1, 2009 at 12:17 PM.
GM Synchromesh is for use in the manual transmissions as it helps with the problem 3rd gen TL's have with the transmission not going into 3rd gear or *POPPING* out of 3rd gear...works like magic!
"Power Flushing" is a BIG no-no. Simple drain and refill is the only way I would dare to change my AMT fluid.
Use ONLY Genuine Honda Automatic Transmission fluid for your Honda/Acura
GM Synchromesh is for use in the manual transmissions as it helps with the problem 3rd gen TL's have with the transmission not going into 3rd gear or *POPPING* out of 3rd gear...works like magic!
"Power Flushing" is a BIG no-no. Simple drain and refill is the only way I would dare to change my AMT fluid.
GM Synchromesh is for use in the manual transmissions as it helps with the problem 3rd gen TL's have with the transmission not going into 3rd gear or *POPPING* out of 3rd gear...works like magic!
"Power Flushing" is a BIG no-no. Simple drain and refill is the only way I would dare to change my AMT fluid.

Also Honda ATF isn't actually that good for your tranny, and that has also been beat to death on this forum.

Coming from a nobody who read something somewhere....but that's okay. You run whatever you want in your ATM. Your money, your ride. 
If you guys answered the dude's question months ago and not left him hanging, this thread could have stayed dead. Love getting flamed for contributing to the site. But it's all good, still love the Acurazine Family and every family has at least one dumb-ass in it.

If you guys answered the dude's question months ago and not left him hanging, this thread could have stayed dead. Love getting flamed for contributing to the site. But it's all good, still love the Acurazine Family and every family has at least one dumb-ass in it.
2. Z1 is full of additives and typically the fluid running when someones trans burns out, so you can understand why people think it's garbage. Many members here, and I mean many not a few, have gone with very low to little additive ATF's with the similar visc points and better properties than Z1 with great results. DW1 (Z1 replacement) is a bit better and a bit lighter than Z1, but still packed with additives. Still a 15k mile fluid in my book. If you stick with Honda fluid, increase the frequency of your oci.
3. Everybody knows GMSFM is for our MT. You failed to identify Friction Modified, straight GM Synch is not for our MT.
4. "months ago".. you mean fucking years ago.
1. the OP is an idiot, this thread is just one example of that.
2. Z1 is full of additives and typically the fluid running when someones trans burns out, so you can understand why people think it's garbage. Many members here, and I mean many not a few, have gone with very low to little additive ATF's with the similar visc points and better properties than Z1 with great results. DW1 (Z1 replacement) is a bit better and a bit lighter than Z1, but still packed with additives. Still a 15k mile fluid in my book. If you stick with Honda fluid, increase the frequency of your oci.
3. Everybody knows GMSFM is for our MT. You failed to identify Friction Modified, straight GM Synch is not for our MT.
4. "months ago".. you mean fucking years ago.
2. Z1 is full of additives and typically the fluid running when someones trans burns out, so you can understand why people think it's garbage. Many members here, and I mean many not a few, have gone with very low to little additive ATF's with the similar visc points and better properties than Z1 with great results. DW1 (Z1 replacement) is a bit better and a bit lighter than Z1, but still packed with additives. Still a 15k mile fluid in my book. If you stick with Honda fluid, increase the frequency of your oci.
3. Everybody knows GMSFM is for our MT. You failed to identify Friction Modified, straight GM Synch is not for our MT.
4. "months ago".. you mean fucking years ago.

Everyone know's about GM Synchromesh fluid...except the one guy who didn't. It's his question you failed to acknowledge with all your "knowledge" and who I was answering.
If you don't want to be updated when a "dead" tread is revived, why not unsubscribe? That's what I'm doing so feel free to rip me all you want, jr. I won't be able to defend myself.
Okay, smartie pants. 
Everyone know's about GM Synchromesh fluid...except the one guy who didn't. It's his question you failed to acknowledge with all your "knowledge" and who I was answering.
If you don't want to be updated when a "dead" tread is revived, why not unsubscribe? That's what I'm doing so feel free to rip me all you want, jr. I won't be able to defend myself.

Everyone know's about GM Synchromesh fluid...except the one guy who didn't. It's his question you failed to acknowledge with all your "knowledge" and who I was answering.
If you don't want to be updated when a "dead" tread is revived, why not unsubscribe? That's what I'm doing so feel free to rip me all you want, jr. I won't be able to defend myself.
You're about as dense as a black hole. If a man asked you for a penny, you'd give him a nickel and ask for change. You run to feel the wind across your face, in a hurricane. You think coitus, cunnilingus and fellatio are a dubstep group out of east berlin. You're a chef with 2 fingers, one eye and scab for a tongue. A dull obtuse simpleton, nay a cotton headed ninny muggin.
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