Engine pulsing/surging upon light throttle when cold
02-27-2010, 06:56 PM
#1
Engine pulsing/surging upon light throttle when cold
2007 Acura TL Base
Has anyone experienced a pulsation with the engine acceleration while launching the car from a cold start. It almost seems like the fuel injectors are faulty where an injector is out of sync.
It only happens when the car is started cold and there is no noise. Its as if someone is lightly stabbing at the accelerator pedal and surging the car forward up to five times in succession. surge-surge-surge-surge-surge. Its a subtle series if surges.
There are no check engine warning and the dealer says there are no software updates for my VIN. I also tried different fuels without success. However, when I turn VSA off it does seem to happen less but I'm guessing this is just in my head.
The dealer says I will pay for the diagnostic if it is not power train related as I am over 80k (but under 4 years).
Any advice anyone? My power train warranty is up in less than 1 year so please help me!
Has anyone experienced a pulsation with the engine acceleration while launching the car from a cold start. It almost seems like the fuel injectors are faulty where an injector is out of sync.
It only happens when the car is started cold and there is no noise. Its as if someone is lightly stabbing at the accelerator pedal and surging the car forward up to five times in succession. surge-surge-surge-surge-surge. Its a subtle series if surges.
There are no check engine warning and the dealer says there are no software updates for my VIN. I also tried different fuels without success. However, when I turn VSA off it does seem to happen less but I'm guessing this is just in my head.
The dealer says I will pay for the diagnostic if it is not power train related as I am over 80k (but under 4 years).
Any advice anyone? My power train warranty is up in less than 1 year so please help me!
Last edited by VanGuy; 02-27-2010 at 07:00 PM. Reason: more info to add
02-28-2010, 12:35 PM
#3
During Normal Operating Temperature
nope. it doesn't happen when the car is warmed up and it only happens once usually during a cold start up. Sometimes it doesn't even happen at all during a cold start up. It's intermittent.
03-01-2010, 10:07 AM
#4
Surging? Does it feel low on power? Usually when the car is started cold it will idle higher than normal and knock a bit. Just sit a listen to it. You'll also feel it knocking. This is actually normal for the car. The ECU leans out the fuel mixture to warm the engine up quicker. If you try to accelerate "pedal to the metal" the car will feel underpowered and have small almost unnoticeable surges. Like it wants to go but can't.
Just after starting the car sit and wait for the water temp needle to start moving. It is actually pretty crazy because you feel the knock and rough idle and then as soon as it starts warming up it all goes away. Idle is low and smooth. After it warms up then drive it and see if it still exhibits your problem. If it does then I am wrong about this and this will just be extra info.
Or you can drive the car right after starting it, stay below 2500 rpm taking it easy, until the water temp starts to rise, then drive it like you stole it. If your problem persists then I am wrong and this is extra info.
Just after starting the car sit and wait for the water temp needle to start moving. It is actually pretty crazy because you feel the knock and rough idle and then as soon as it starts warming up it all goes away. Idle is low and smooth. After it warms up then drive it and see if it still exhibits your problem. If it does then I am wrong about this and this will just be extra info.
Or you can drive the car right after starting it, stay below 2500 rpm taking it easy, until the water temp starts to rise, then drive it like you stole it. If your problem persists then I am wrong and this is extra info.
03-01-2010, 06:35 PM
#5
Surging? Does it feel low on power? Usually when the car is started cold it will idle higher than normal and knock a bit. Just sit a listen to it. You'll also feel it knocking. This is actually normal for the car. The ECU leans out the fuel mixture to warm the engine up quicker. If you try to accelerate "pedal to the metal" the car will feel underpowered and have small almost unnoticeable surges. Like it wants to go but can't.
Just after starting the car sit and wait for the water temp needle to start moving. It is actually pretty crazy because you feel the knock and rough idle and then as soon as it starts warming up it all goes away. Idle is low and smooth. After it warms up then drive it and see if it still exhibits your problem. If it does then I am wrong about this and this will just be extra info.
Or you can drive the car right after starting it, stay below 2500 rpm taking it easy, until the water temp starts to rise, then drive it like you stole it. If your problem persists then I am wrong and this is extra info.
Just after starting the car sit and wait for the water temp needle to start moving. It is actually pretty crazy because you feel the knock and rough idle and then as soon as it starts warming up it all goes away. Idle is low and smooth. After it warms up then drive it and see if it still exhibits your problem. If it does then I am wrong about this and this will just be extra info.
Or you can drive the car right after starting it, stay below 2500 rpm taking it easy, until the water temp starts to rise, then drive it like you stole it. If your problem persists then I am wrong and this is extra info.
03-06-2010, 12:07 PM
#7
forced to guess
I'm going to launch the car without VSA engaged to see if it's related. I have a hunch it might be a bad wheel sensor causing the brakes to be applied somehow. It's so perfectly rhythmic that I'm beginning to think it's not an engine/fuel issue.
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05-15-2010, 06:50 PM
#9
So I'm basically convinced that it does not happen when VSA is disengaged. Also, I am beginning to suspect that it may be linked to the warm up mode / rich mixture / closed throttle condition during warm up and the VSA computer. The VSA may be confused.
05-15-2010, 09:46 PM
#10
Dont quote me on anything. This is just information im relaying off the top of my head
In order to achieve its ULEV emission rating, the TL revs a little higher when cold in order to warm up the catalytic converter. Ive experienced the same thing in my car. the surging should go away once the temperature increases a bit.
In order to achieve its ULEV emission rating, the TL revs a little higher when cold in order to warm up the catalytic converter. Ive experienced the same thing in my car. the surging should go away once the temperature increases a bit.
05-16-2010, 12:22 AM
#11
Senior Moderator
2007 Acura TL Base
Has anyone experienced a pulsation with the engine acceleration while launching the car from a cold start. It almost seems like the fuel injectors are faulty where an injector is out of sync.
It only happens when the car is started cold and there is no noise. Its as if someone is lightly stabbing at the accelerator pedal and surging the car forward up to five times in succession. surge-surge-surge-surge-surge. Its a subtle series if surges.
There are no check engine warning and the dealer says there are no software updates for my VIN. I also tried different fuels without success. However, when I turn VSA off it does seem to happen less but I'm guessing this is just in my head.
The dealer says I will pay for the diagnostic if it is not power train related as I am over 80k (but under 4 years).
Any advice anyone? My power train warranty is up in less than 1 year so please help me!
Has anyone experienced a pulsation with the engine acceleration while launching the car from a cold start. It almost seems like the fuel injectors are faulty where an injector is out of sync.
It only happens when the car is started cold and there is no noise. Its as if someone is lightly stabbing at the accelerator pedal and surging the car forward up to five times in succession. surge-surge-surge-surge-surge. Its a subtle series if surges.
There are no check engine warning and the dealer says there are no software updates for my VIN. I also tried different fuels without success. However, when I turn VSA off it does seem to happen less but I'm guessing this is just in my head.
The dealer says I will pay for the diagnostic if it is not power train related as I am over 80k (but under 4 years).
Any advice anyone? My power train warranty is up in less than 1 year so please help me!
The biggest thing you mention is that it happens on cold starts. When the TL is below operating temperature, the ULEV system dumps extra fuel into the cylinders to purposely misfire, causing the car to warm up a bit faster to reduce emissions. This slight misfiring can cause idle roughness, some surging and as well some extra noise that you would not normally hear during a normal drive with the car at operating temperature.
05-16-2010, 11:11 PM
#12
When you say surging, does the car jump forward jerkily or do you feel it like a sight sensation? If it's a slight sensation, does it happen near 10, 15 or 20 miles per hour?
The biggest thing you mention is that it happens on cold starts. When the TL is below operating temperature, the ULEV system dumps extra fuel into the cylinders to purposely misfire, causing the car to warm up a bit faster to reduce emissions. This slight misfiring can cause idle roughness, some surging and as well some extra noise that you would not normally hear during a normal drive with the car at operating temperature.
The biggest thing you mention is that it happens on cold starts. When the TL is below operating temperature, the ULEV system dumps extra fuel into the cylinders to purposely misfire, causing the car to warm up a bit faster to reduce emissions. This slight misfiring can cause idle roughness, some surging and as well some extra noise that you would not normally hear during a normal drive with the car at operating temperature.
08-28-2010, 11:31 AM
#13
Well i finally (partially) solved this problem of multiple successive jerky acceleration. The solution was to clean the throttle body of carbon build up. I did that and the successive jerkiness went away. However, it turned into one big surge upon light acceleration when climbing out of my drive way which is inclined. VSA or holding in 1st gear has no impact on this.
So in summary for everyones benefit my acceleration problems are as follows:
Problem 1 - Jerky acceleration - partially solved by cleaning the throttle body as this modified the jerky sensation. The initial sensation was approx. five light surges or jerks upon light acceleration. Also, see above. Status - Partially Solved
Problem 2 - Slight hesitation upon normal acceleration from a stop i.e. while waiting to turn left etc. Diagnosis - This is slight hesitation is normal because the transmission is shifting from 1st to 2nd within about half a second. I assume this is due to a Acura trying to improve fuel economy. I don't think this is the DBW delay either. Status - Completely Resolved
Problem 3 - Significant hesitation/surging upon acceleration in the same situation as in Problem 2. This has not occurred after cleaning the throttle body. Status - Completely Resolved
Problem 4 - Problem 1 was partially resolved because the sensation was transformed to one larger surge upon acceleration out of my inclined driveway. I think the problem here would be either the fuel injectors, knock sensor or PCV. NE14RoxCJ replied to my PM indicating that his motor mounts and APP were likely not the issue and that it was his knock sensor which was the problem. However, bobbyc39 (TSX forum) has posted that he replaced his knock sensor without improving a problem I would classify as similar to Problem 3 (which really doesn't help me since I resolved problem 3 but need a solution to problem 4!). I will clean the PCV and re diagnose shortly. Status - Pending diagnosis
Problem 5 - I recently noticed, before cleaning the throttle body, that my rpm needle fluctuated about half the width of the needle while on the highway while at a steady speed and pedal input. I have not tested to see if this is still happening after cleaning the throttle body. I will test shortly. Status - Pending diagnosis.
So in summary for everyones benefit my acceleration problems are as follows:
Problem 1 - Jerky acceleration - partially solved by cleaning the throttle body as this modified the jerky sensation. The initial sensation was approx. five light surges or jerks upon light acceleration. Also, see above. Status - Partially Solved
Problem 2 - Slight hesitation upon normal acceleration from a stop i.e. while waiting to turn left etc. Diagnosis - This is slight hesitation is normal because the transmission is shifting from 1st to 2nd within about half a second. I assume this is due to a Acura trying to improve fuel economy. I don't think this is the DBW delay either. Status - Completely Resolved
Problem 3 - Significant hesitation/surging upon acceleration in the same situation as in Problem 2. This has not occurred after cleaning the throttle body. Status - Completely Resolved
Problem 4 - Problem 1 was partially resolved because the sensation was transformed to one larger surge upon acceleration out of my inclined driveway. I think the problem here would be either the fuel injectors, knock sensor or PCV. NE14RoxCJ replied to my PM indicating that his motor mounts and APP were likely not the issue and that it was his knock sensor which was the problem. However, bobbyc39 (TSX forum) has posted that he replaced his knock sensor without improving a problem I would classify as similar to Problem 3 (which really doesn't help me since I resolved problem 3 but need a solution to problem 4!). I will clean the PCV and re diagnose shortly. Status - Pending diagnosis
Problem 5 - I recently noticed, before cleaning the throttle body, that my rpm needle fluctuated about half the width of the needle while on the highway while at a steady speed and pedal input. I have not tested to see if this is still happening after cleaning the throttle body. I will test shortly. Status - Pending diagnosis.
Last edited by VanGuy; 08-28-2010 at 11:38 AM.
08-28-2010, 12:59 PM
#14
Team Owner
Are you starting it up and immediately putting it into gear and driving? I can't help there because at a minimum I let it sit for a few seconds until the idle goes down to normal.
On an SFI engine, injectors can be out of sync and the only thing that's going to change is emissions sligthly. You won't be able to notice a change.
To clarify, the ULEV runs it very rich and retards the timing to light off the cats. You can hear this if you sit there on a cold start with the door open. The sound of raw fuel lighting off in the exhaust will resonate through the exhaust up front. This is over in a matter of seconds.
Surging is usually caused by a lean condition but it's possible for an ultra rich condition to cause it.
It's not the knock sensor with the engine dead cold, retarded timing, and rich mixture.
The throttle seems to be way more sensitive during the warm up mode. If you have an app sensor starting to go bad it may be more obvious when cold. However, they usually outright fail once hot.
Hopefully you don't have the dreaded transmission shudder. Many times but not always it shows itself when cold since the ECU does not pull back throttle under shifts.
A test would be to maually put it in second gear before the car even moves so you're starting off in second. When it needs to go to third, shift it with your foot still in it and see what happens.
On an SFI engine, injectors can be out of sync and the only thing that's going to change is emissions sligthly. You won't be able to notice a change.
To clarify, the ULEV runs it very rich and retards the timing to light off the cats. You can hear this if you sit there on a cold start with the door open. The sound of raw fuel lighting off in the exhaust will resonate through the exhaust up front. This is over in a matter of seconds.
Surging is usually caused by a lean condition but it's possible for an ultra rich condition to cause it.
It's not the knock sensor with the engine dead cold, retarded timing, and rich mixture.
The throttle seems to be way more sensitive during the warm up mode. If you have an app sensor starting to go bad it may be more obvious when cold. However, they usually outright fail once hot.
Hopefully you don't have the dreaded transmission shudder. Many times but not always it shows itself when cold since the ECU does not pull back throttle under shifts.
A test would be to maually put it in second gear before the car even moves so you're starting off in second. When it needs to go to third, shift it with your foot still in it and see what happens.
Last edited by I hate cars; 08-28-2010 at 01:01 PM.
09-01-2010, 03:14 PM
#15
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When you say surging, does the car jump forward jerkily or do you feel it like a sight sensation? If it's a slight sensation, does it happen near 10, 15 or 20 miles per hour?
The biggest thing you mention is that it happens on cold starts. When the TL is below operating temperature, the ULEV system dumps extra fuel into the cylinders to purposely misfire, causing the car to warm up a bit faster to reduce emissions. This slight misfiring can cause idle roughness, some surging and as well some extra noise that you would not normally hear during a normal drive with the car at operating temperature.
The biggest thing you mention is that it happens on cold starts. When the TL is below operating temperature, the ULEV system dumps extra fuel into the cylinders to purposely misfire, causing the car to warm up a bit faster to reduce emissions. This slight misfiring can cause idle roughness, some surging and as well some extra noise that you would not normally hear during a normal drive with the car at operating temperature.
09-01-2010, 08:59 PM
#16
Stay Out Of the Left Lane
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What did you do to clean the throttle body of carbon build up?? Not sure if I have the same thing, but have felt some similar conditions.
09-03-2010, 11:36 PM
#17
Well i finally (partially) solved this problem of multiple successive jerky acceleration. The solution was to clean the throttle body of carbon build up. I did that and the successive jerkiness went away. However, it turned into one big surge upon light acceleration when climbing out of my drive way which is inclined. VSA or holding in 1st gear has no impact on this.
So in summary for everyones benefit my acceleration problems are as follows:
Problem 1 - Jerky acceleration - partially solved by cleaning the throttle body as this modified the jerky sensation. The initial sensation was approx. five light surges or jerks upon light acceleration. Also, see above. Status - Partially Solved
Problem 2 - Slight hesitation upon normal acceleration from a stop i.e. while waiting to turn left etc. Diagnosis - This is slight hesitation is normal because the transmission is shifting from 1st to 2nd within about half a second. I assume this is due to a Acura trying to improve fuel economy. I don't think this is the DBW delay either. Status - Completely Resolved
Problem 3 - Significant hesitation/surging upon acceleration in the same situation as in Problem 2. This has not occurred after cleaning the throttle body. Status - Completely Resolved
Problem 4 - Problem 1 was partially resolved because the sensation was transformed to one larger surge upon acceleration out of my inclined driveway. I think the problem here would be either the fuel injectors, knock sensor or PCV. NE14RoxCJ replied to my PM indicating that his motor mounts and APP were likely not the issue and that it was his knock sensor which was the problem. However, bobbyc39 (TSX forum) has posted that he replaced his knock sensor without improving a problem I would classify as similar to Problem 3 (which really doesn't help me since I resolved problem 3 but need a solution to problem 4!). I will clean the PCV and re diagnose shortly. Status - Pending diagnosis
Problem 5 - I recently noticed, before cleaning the throttle body, that my rpm needle fluctuated about half the width of the needle while on the highway while at a steady speed and pedal input. I have not tested to see if this is still happening after cleaning the throttle body. I will test shortly. Status - Pending diagnosis.
So in summary for everyones benefit my acceleration problems are as follows:
Problem 1 - Jerky acceleration - partially solved by cleaning the throttle body as this modified the jerky sensation. The initial sensation was approx. five light surges or jerks upon light acceleration. Also, see above. Status - Partially Solved
Problem 2 - Slight hesitation upon normal acceleration from a stop i.e. while waiting to turn left etc. Diagnosis - This is slight hesitation is normal because the transmission is shifting from 1st to 2nd within about half a second. I assume this is due to a Acura trying to improve fuel economy. I don't think this is the DBW delay either. Status - Completely Resolved
Problem 3 - Significant hesitation/surging upon acceleration in the same situation as in Problem 2. This has not occurred after cleaning the throttle body. Status - Completely Resolved
Problem 4 - Problem 1 was partially resolved because the sensation was transformed to one larger surge upon acceleration out of my inclined driveway. I think the problem here would be either the fuel injectors, knock sensor or PCV. NE14RoxCJ replied to my PM indicating that his motor mounts and APP were likely not the issue and that it was his knock sensor which was the problem. However, bobbyc39 (TSX forum) has posted that he replaced his knock sensor without improving a problem I would classify as similar to Problem 3 (which really doesn't help me since I resolved problem 3 but need a solution to problem 4!). I will clean the PCV and re diagnose shortly. Status - Pending diagnosis
Problem 5 - I recently noticed, before cleaning the throttle body, that my rpm needle fluctuated about half the width of the needle while on the highway while at a steady speed and pedal input. I have not tested to see if this is still happening after cleaning the throttle body. I will test shortly. Status - Pending diagnosis.
Problem 5 - This problem no longer occurs subsequent to cleaning the throttle valve. Status - Completely resolved.
Problem 4 - I think this may be related to the transmission sprag clutch/one way clutch behavior or transmission creep control or PCM misfire to speed warm up etc. The large (actually it's more like a slight to moderate one now) surge also does not occur while starting off in second gear using manual shift mode. Thanks to I Hate Cars for suggesting the transmission shudder test which got me thinking of how the transmission could impact Problem 4. I hope Problem 4 ends up being normal behavior. Lastly, I was about to pull the PCV valve to clean it but decided not to since I realized that it would be next to impossible for the PCV valve to cause Problem 4.
All I need to do now is talk to an Acura tech to see if the 2007 TL transmission uses a one way clutch or creep control. Status - Still pending diagnosis.
Last edited by VanGuy; 09-03-2010 at 11:43 PM.
09-03-2010, 11:39 PM
#18
I cleaned the throttle body valve by spraying cleaner into that area of the throttle body. I heard that turning the car on (but not started) and depressing the accelerator pedal will open up the valve so the area can be easily sprayed. Look up the procedure or pay someone else to perform the service for you.
09-05-2010, 10:24 AM
#19
Registered User
had this on my 05 tl about 3 or 4 years ago. acura was no help in the siutation
in the end it was one of the O2 sensors, if i remember correctly it was the primary O2 on the rear bank
there won't be any error codes either
in the end it was one of the O2 sensors, if i remember correctly it was the primary O2 on the rear bank
there won't be any error codes either
07-23-2011, 06:23 PM
#20
Update:
Problem 5 - This problem no longer occurs subsequent to cleaning the throttle valve. Status - Completely resolved.
Problem 4 - I think this may be related to the transmission sprag clutch/one way clutch behavior or transmission creep control or PCM misfire to speed warm up etc. The large (actually it's more like a slight to moderate one now) surge also does not occur while starting off in second gear using manual shift mode. Thanks to I Hate Cars for suggesting the transmission shudder test which got me thinking of how the transmission could impact Problem 4. I hope Problem 4 ends up being normal behavior. Lastly, I was about to pull the PCV valve to clean it but decided not to since I realized that it would be next to impossible for the PCV valve to cause Problem 4.
All I need to do now is talk to an Acura tech to see if the 2007 TL transmission uses a one way clutch or creep control. Status - Still pending diagnosis.
Problem 5 - This problem no longer occurs subsequent to cleaning the throttle valve. Status - Completely resolved.
Problem 4 - I think this may be related to the transmission sprag clutch/one way clutch behavior or transmission creep control or PCM misfire to speed warm up etc. The large (actually it's more like a slight to moderate one now) surge also does not occur while starting off in second gear using manual shift mode. Thanks to I Hate Cars for suggesting the transmission shudder test which got me thinking of how the transmission could impact Problem 4. I hope Problem 4 ends up being normal behavior. Lastly, I was about to pull the PCV valve to clean it but decided not to since I realized that it would be next to impossible for the PCV valve to cause Problem 4.
All I need to do now is talk to an Acura tech to see if the 2007 TL transmission uses a one way clutch or creep control. Status - Still pending diagnosis.
All of the problems 1 to 5 could be related to the broken front & side motor mounts I just had replaced.
Assuming the non-linear acceleration was caused by engine power being wasted shifting the engine around inside the engine bay because the engine was not attached to the frame. I did the brake plus slight depressing the accelerator test to diagnose the engine mounts. The engine jumped about 3 inches!
Perhaps an engine bouncing about could cause problem 5 too. That is if power is not transferred to the drive shaft consistently.
I'm still monitoring for Problem 4 but I believe all of the other problems will resolve itself due to the engine mount repair or APP repair. I'll have to repair the APP first to know.
So like I said, now I have an APP - accelerator pedal position sensor error code P2138 & the car went into limp mode several times. Of course, a bad APP could cause Problems 1 to 5 too! I'll repair this in the next few months & update then.
In addition, I have the check gas cap MID message. I'll replace the PCS - purge control sensor with the APP & advise.
I'm not impressed with Acura/Honda anymore.
08-28-2011, 09:12 AM
#21
Well, I finally have an update, sort of. I was waiting for the winter to be done with so I can test the vehicle in warmer weather.
All of the problems 1 to 5 could be related to the broken front & side motor mounts I just had replaced.
Assuming the non-linear acceleration was caused by engine power being wasted shifting the engine around inside the engine bay because the engine was not attached to the frame. I did the brake plus slight depressing the accelerator test to diagnose the engine mounts. The engine jumped about 3 inches!
Perhaps an engine bouncing about could cause problem 5 too. That is if power is not transferred to the drive shaft consistently.
I'm still monitoring for Problem 4 but I believe all of the other problems will resolve itself due to the engine mount repair or APP repair. I'll have to repair the APP first to know.
So like I said, now I have an APP - accelerator pedal position sensor error code P2138 & the car went into limp mode several times. Of course, a bad APP could cause Problems 1 to 5 too! I'll repair this in the next few months & update then.
In addition, I have the check gas cap MID message. I'll replace the PCS - purge control sensor with the APP & advise.
I'm not impressed with Acura/Honda anymore.
All of the problems 1 to 5 could be related to the broken front & side motor mounts I just had replaced.
Assuming the non-linear acceleration was caused by engine power being wasted shifting the engine around inside the engine bay because the engine was not attached to the frame. I did the brake plus slight depressing the accelerator test to diagnose the engine mounts. The engine jumped about 3 inches!
Perhaps an engine bouncing about could cause problem 5 too. That is if power is not transferred to the drive shaft consistently.
I'm still monitoring for Problem 4 but I believe all of the other problems will resolve itself due to the engine mount repair or APP repair. I'll have to repair the APP first to know.
So like I said, now I have an APP - accelerator pedal position sensor error code P2138 & the car went into limp mode several times. Of course, a bad APP could cause Problems 1 to 5 too! I'll repair this in the next few months & update then.
In addition, I have the check gas cap MID message. I'll replace the PCS - purge control sensor with the APP & advise.
I'm not impressed with Acura/Honda anymore.
I am going to concluded, for the most part, this prolonged diagnosis with the following:
Problems 1 to 5 were likely caused by a faulty or failing APP sensor. In addition, any jerky-ness in the acceleration from the faulty APP was magnified by the broken front & side motor mounts.
Cleaning the throttle body helped smooth out the acceleration but did not fix the root causes, which were the faulty APP & broken mounts.
I am going to still monitor for the original Problem 1 of jerky successive surges upon light throttle application & of course Problem 1s transformation into a single larger but still slight surge - Problem 4. If I don't post here again about anything then you can all conclude that it has not reoccurred.
After replacing the APP the car now drives & accelerates perfectly. Just like a non-drive by wire vehicle. I can make the car crawl at very slow speeds with exact precision.
It was almost impossible to try and diagnose the problem because there were two problems that interacted. I hope there are no other causes that might crop up. What a big waste of my time too. I think I will try a different brand of vehicle next time. Why pay a premium for a Honda when you don't get the reliability anymoreÉ
I also replaced the PCS - purge control solenoid. Those pesky gas cap message are finally gone! Unfortunately, my gas mileage MPG did not increase that much after fixing the PCS & APP.
08-28-2011, 01:04 PM
#23
Registered Member
I appears that I am going to have to replace tje APP sensor in my '04 manual, too. The symptoms became more apparent a few weeks ago at the beach and are definitely reproducible. I just replaced the interior auto-dimming rear view mirrors in both of my 3G TL's two hours ago. Mine suddenly got weird so I also replaced the wife's in her '05 just to be proactive.
02-19-2012, 07:42 PM
#24
Guess what? I now have the Acura-common vibration upon light throttle issue at 1500 to 2000 rpm at 100 kph. From other member posts, at least I know its going to be the intermediate shaft and/or passenger side CV axle shaft. No more Acuras for me!
02-19-2012, 08:31 PM
#25
Team Owner
Well, my problem 1 that transformed into problem 4 continues. all of the other issues are completely resolved. I assume it will be the O2 sensor as you mentioned but I will wait till it completely fails with a trouble code before replacing.
Guess what? I now have the Acura-common vibration upon light throttle issue at 1500 to 2000 rpm at 100 kph. From other member posts, at least I know its going to be the intermediate shaft and/or passenger side CV axle shaft. No more Acuras for me!
Guess what? I now have the Acura-common vibration upon light throttle issue at 1500 to 2000 rpm at 100 kph. From other member posts, at least I know its going to be the intermediate shaft and/or passenger side CV axle shaft. No more Acuras for me!
03-10-2012, 02:07 PM
#26
Quick update: I replaced the passenger side/right side CV shaft or drive axle. I did not change the intermediate shaft or its bearing. The repair has resolved the issue with drive line vibrations only while under load, slight throttle application while moving or going up hill. For anyone else experiencing the 1500 rpm vibration, you need to replace just the cv shaft & not the intermediate shaft. The car now accelerates as smooth as silk! No exaggeration on the smoothness. Now, I feel like I'm driving a luxury vehicle when accelerating.
Note: The mechanic (had a bad attitude) refused to replace the set ring, cir-clip or the rubber seal. I hope this doesn't come back to haunt me. Anyone in the Vancouver BC area want to buy these items... lol?
I have not had a chance to review the O2 sensor live data. Thanks 'I hate cars'
Lastly, I really don't know what I would do without the Acurazine members & their detailed postings. I have been able to diagnose & repair several issues at great savings.
Note: The mechanic (had a bad attitude) refused to replace the set ring, cir-clip or the rubber seal. I hope this doesn't come back to haunt me. Anyone in the Vancouver BC area want to buy these items... lol?
I have not had a chance to review the O2 sensor live data. Thanks 'I hate cars'
Lastly, I really don't know what I would do without the Acurazine members & their detailed postings. I have been able to diagnose & repair several issues at great savings.
Last edited by VanGuy; 03-10-2012 at 02:18 PM.
09-11-2019, 02:07 PM
#27
1st Gear
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OK. Same problem
Full disclosure: Honda CRV 2008.
Was looking up my problem and found this forum.
The first place I took my car said that it was a timing chain but they didn’t do that work, well thank goodness.. I thought at the time and they suggested somewhere else - where I went and they told me my motor was fried and I needed another one - used one of course...I trusted them. Yes I’m not very happy the problem with the surging forward with very slow take offs to avoid that problem and can’t go on the highway at all because you can’t drive it over 45 mph without it surging and jerking forward during acceleration.
I got the car back and it’s doing the same thing. I brought it back they change the spark plugs that I had already paid for and that seem to work for about 25 minutes into my ride home and it started again. You can imagine how angry I am that I dropped a motor in it that probably wasn’t the problem at all especially after reading this forum I want to thank all of you for your comments and diagnoses as I will be trying to find a new guy to fix the problem after spending all this time and money already. 🤦🏻♀️
Was looking up my problem and found this forum.
The first place I took my car said that it was a timing chain but they didn’t do that work, well thank goodness.. I thought at the time and they suggested somewhere else - where I went and they told me my motor was fried and I needed another one - used one of course...I trusted them. Yes I’m not very happy the problem with the surging forward with very slow take offs to avoid that problem and can’t go on the highway at all because you can’t drive it over 45 mph without it surging and jerking forward during acceleration.
I got the car back and it’s doing the same thing. I brought it back they change the spark plugs that I had already paid for and that seem to work for about 25 minutes into my ride home and it started again. You can imagine how angry I am that I dropped a motor in it that probably wasn’t the problem at all especially after reading this forum I want to thank all of you for your comments and diagnoses as I will be trying to find a new guy to fix the problem after spending all this time and money already. 🤦🏻♀️
09-12-2019, 02:55 PM
#28
Senior Moderator
Full disclosure: Honda CRV 2008.
Was looking up my problem and found this forum.
The first place I took my car said that it was a timing chain but they didn’t do that work, well thank goodness.. I thought at the time and they suggested somewhere else - where I went and they told me my motor was fried and I needed another one - used one of course...I trusted them. Yes I’m not very happy the problem with the surging forward with very slow take offs to avoid that problem and can’t go on the highway at all because you can’t drive it over 45 mph without it surging and jerking forward during acceleration.
I got the car back and it’s doing the same thing. I brought it back they change the spark plugs that I had already paid for and that seem to work for about 25 minutes into my ride home and it started again. You can imagine how angry I am that I dropped a motor in it that probably wasn’t the problem at all especially after reading this forum I want to thank all of you for your comments and diagnoses as I will be trying to find a new guy to fix the problem after spending all this time and money already. 🤦🏻♀️
Was looking up my problem and found this forum.
The first place I took my car said that it was a timing chain but they didn’t do that work, well thank goodness.. I thought at the time and they suggested somewhere else - where I went and they told me my motor was fried and I needed another one - used one of course...I trusted them. Yes I’m not very happy the problem with the surging forward with very slow take offs to avoid that problem and can’t go on the highway at all because you can’t drive it over 45 mph without it surging and jerking forward during acceleration.
I got the car back and it’s doing the same thing. I brought it back they change the spark plugs that I had already paid for and that seem to work for about 25 minutes into my ride home and it started again. You can imagine how angry I am that I dropped a motor in it that probably wasn’t the problem at all especially after reading this forum I want to thank all of you for your comments and diagnoses as I will be trying to find a new guy to fix the problem after spending all this time and money already. 🤦🏻♀️
Its funny you mention you have a CRV! A guy on youtube named "south main auto" has an excellent channel with lots of videos and he mentioned a CRV having issues like yours on light acceleration on one of his videos. Hope this helps!
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