ZayPierre3G

Hey guys just ran into an issue and have had no luck 2006 Acura TL automatic trans

recently went to start my car and my car chimes when key is in ignition but when I turn key I have no power to the cluster lights.. my gauges light up and my dome lights come on. My head lights come on. OBDII port works

windows won’t go down or up
blinkers don’t work
no crank no noise


I’ve checked fuses as well as main fuse under hood
checked relays by supplying battery voltage to the coil contact on relay to get the relay to close I then tested for continuity on my starter relay and got continuity.

I changed out my starter and my ignition switch

can anyone point me into the right direction any help would be great!

twokexlv6coupe

What's your battery voltage/how old is it?
Last time the car was driven?
Was any "work" done on the car just prior to this issue?

ZayPierre3G

12.6 volts and it’s a new battery less than a year old replaced due to a failed cold crank in my previous battery. Car has been in the garage for 2 weeks now. As far as work I did my spark plugs and coils and my oil change and car ran for about a month before this issue

my fuel pressure regulator was bad and when I would turn off my car the pressure to my fuel lines would drop and when I would get in my car I would have to prime the fuel into the fuel line by turning my key to activate the fuel pump a few times! After about 3 times it turning the key then turning it off it would start no problem if I didn’t then it would struggle to start

John from PA

12.6 volts is about right for a fully charged battery with engine off. But if you have a charger of some sort to might want to leave it on overnight justb to check for behavior changes. I’m not fully on to the battery testing stuff done by Advance, AutoZone, the dealer etc. About two years ago I had an issue with my Accord, behavior not too unlike what you describe. Failing to start happened multiple times every week. The battery was tested by three places, including the dealer, with a hand held device. All three tests OK. Dealer had a TSB that said to rotate the torque converter relative to the flywheel by one hole ($1200). In my day 80+ years ago batteries were tested using a load bank that could draw like a 100 amps. A local independent shop has a load bank and when my battery was tested it failed miserably. I replaced the battery and the car has been fine ever since. The old battery was 3 years old so the circumstances are slightly different than yours. Make sure all your terminals are clean, try to get a good overnight charge and maybe see if you can find someone with an old-fashioned load bank. Good luck

ZayPierre3G

yea I have a battery charger I charged it to full until I had a solid green light on my noco battery charger still no luck

NDNV

A bad brake pedal position switch? Can't start car without it working.

ZayPierre3G

so will that effect me not having lights on my dash and windows not working ?

NDNV

No those symptoms are not affected by the Pedal Position Switch so maybe not your issue.

ZayPierre3G

yeah it’s strange my headlights work but not my turn signal.

gauge’s on my dash light up but none of the other lights. Car chimes when key is in ignition but when I turn key to each position nothing lights up.

twokexlv6coupe

Take things one step at a time, you might have several issues stemming from different problems.

If I were you I'd prioritize the no cranking problem well above no windows or lights.
The Brake Pedal Switch is a very likely cause (and good suggestion) for the no cranking, and very easy to diagnose with a DMM.

ZayPierre3G

Issue is fixed guys thanks for the support it ended up being my fuel pump..

I guessing fuel pump was shot and the car has a safety that will not allow power to the second notch on ignition!

second notch my fuel pump activates and because it was bad I’m guessing it just didn’t let my car have power to all accessories because of it! I ordered ny fuel pump because my regulator was bad got it today installed and voila works!!