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Trying to track down a possible short with a quick visual inspection. When disconnecting the harness between the body and the door, the plugs have what seems to be a lubrication on them. Is this normal?
Can't say for certain, but it could just be a dielectric grease as an extra precaution between the connections. What seems to be the problem you're experiencing with car door that warranted this search, perhaps we may be of more assistance?
I have a short some where that drains the battery in less than 24 hours. I have noticed when opening the DS door, the interior lights flicker and the window control wont work unless the door is in a specific position. I did notice when pulling out the white plug, it was not snapped securely in the door housing harness.
I bet the battery drain isn't related to the door itself, but the window control may be..
For the battery drain, check to see if the HFL is warm and unplug it if it's not working, it's been the #1 cause of battery drains on our cars. The A/C relay being stuck on is #2
Measuring voltage gives you nothing. You need to measure current. If load is large use amp clamp, but for key-off draw I like to connect multimeter in 10A setting. Decent multimeter should be plenty accurate to measure any additional draw. AstroAI can be bought from Amazon for ~$40 and it should be plenty for that test.
If things are happening when you open/close the door, does it happen only if you move the door? I mean when you don't close them all the way just open fully and almost close.
Maybe one or more of the wires in the harness is broken? That is fairly common for wires to break where they bend all the time. Pull off that rubber accordion boot between door and car body, where the door hinges are, and take a look for any broken wires.
I did inspect that harness yesterday. Everything looked fine. Ithink the original issue was the white plug was not fully secured to the harness in the door. As of now, the door is better than before. I have a decent meter, i will research how to measure amp draw.
0.11mA is 0.00011A and that is great result for key off draw. Did you mean 0.11A? If yes then 0.11A is bit too much.
0.02-0.04A of key-off draw is normal. Of course that is with doors closed, car off, hood switch closed or bypassed, and car left sitting for ~10 minutes at least.
Measuring voltage gives you nothing. You need to measure current. If load is large use amp clamp, but for key-off draw I like to connect multimeter in 10A setting. Decent multimeter should be plenty. Maybe one or more of the wires in the harness is broken? That is fairly common for wires to break where they bend all the time. Pull off that rubber accordion boot between door and car body, where the door hinges are, and take a look for any broken wires.
At this age, a wire can be broken internally inside the insulation, so replacing the whole door harness may be your only option. Paul fixed mine by jiggling it
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So yesterday with the stated ok amp draw my battery voltage was at 12.3v where the day before it was 12.5v. Today I am at 12.1v. If I have a OK amp draw, why does the voltage continue to drop? The battery is less than a year old.
I never use mA range to measure anything on the car. I don't know about your meter but in mine 200mA fuse would blow pretty fast.I might be wrong but some meters I tried had a lot of resistance when measuring mA current making all measurement useless.
Use "10A" range.
I like to connect everything, open the door, and watch the meter. It will show 1-5A, then will drop in stages, and settle on whatever the key-off draw for that vehicle is. If current is pretty high wait 10-30 minutes. Some cars really take their time before "going to sleep".
Again on good car I would expect 0.02-0.04A of key-off current, which would be 20-40mA. There is no way that your car is drawing only 0.1mA. Are you sure that fuse in the multimeter isn't blown already.
And again, measuring the voltage doesn't really give you much info, and neither does battery age. I've seen batteries fail withing couple months and going strong 6+ years.
Well 0.455A is quite a lot of current for key-off. Leave car for couple minutes with all door closed and see if it goes down in ~10 minutes. Otherwise start pulling fuses or measure voltage drop across the fuse.
I pulled the 40amp Back Up ACC fuse (15) and my amp draw dropped from .452 to .019. This should be the circuit creating the draw. Anyone know what to look for next on that circuit?
Thank you for the help. I narrowed it down to fuse 5, the radio. There is still the stock radio and everything works as it should. So I do not know what the next step would be for this circuit.
I would put small amp clamp around amplifier voltage supply wire and check if that is what is actually draining power. Simpler than getting behind radio. Or alternatively disconnect the amplifier and check if drain is gone.
Amplifier is behind passenger's right kick panel.
It would be a good idea to check the ON signal going to the amp before disconnecting it.
Check with multimeter. It probably will be 12V with radio ON, and should be nothing with radio off key off.
04-26-2021, 09:22 AM
