So, I did my 105K maint. job by myself. I used this link https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...2&ref=esp-link and thought it was well explained. Anyways, I did this, put everything back together and started my engine. The engine ran very rough and shaky. I had verified that all of my timing marks were spot on.

Now, I've gone ahead and taken off the rear head and I'm guessing that I have a bent valve. I have no compression coming out of all 3 of the rear cylinders and about 180Lbs out of the front three. Acurazine seems to be the most informative spot I've found on the web. So I'm just hoping that someone out there can help me out. I don't have $1500 to take it to a mechanic to fix.

 

Also, this is an 06 TL.

 

pull the heads and look for damage.

your motor should sound like a Subaru or a Boxer.

 

So, my question is, how do I fix it?

 

I would not have pulled the head yet.

Did you do the timing belt and valve adjustment at the same time? Did you rotate the engine to do the valve adjustment with the belt off?

With one bank being zero, I would have quadruple checked the timing marks and valve adjustment. At a minumum, make sure at some point during engine rotation you have some play in the valve train.

If nothing else, you should have run some compressed air into the spark plug hole with both valves closed to see if you can hear any air espaping from the intake or exhaust side. It might be worth bolting the head back on without the intake or exhaust manifolds and cams if you have an air compressor with the right fitting to screw into the spark plug holes.
Bent valves are hard to spot by eye usually unless they're very bad. You need to remove them from the head to check.

 

If you lined up all the marks before removing the old belt, then made certain the marks were correct after the new belt was installed there should be no problem.

Put blocks under the head with the valves downward and fill the ports with liquid. I use gas, but some say a lacquer thinner. Look at the valves and see if any liquid is leaking past the valves. If there is seepage, take it to a machine shop. If none, then the cam timing was set way off when the new belt was installed and a valve was off its seat when combustion took place. When the head was on the car, you would have been able to determine an exhaust or intake valve problem.

Keep us posted

 

you were a bit quick in pulling the cylinder head off.

is there any damage to the piston tops? thats a tell tale sign you bent a valve. if not, since the head is off, you can use turbonut's method of testing.

 

After you line all your marks up & you are threading your new belt on, that rear camwheel will spring back a few teeth (counter clock wise) with the slightest bump or nudge, it probably did that without your noticing.

 

johnny3, it did spring back and I got it lined back up (after turning it both clockwise and counter clockwise, not sure if that screwed something up or not) before putting the timing belt back on. Could my turning it both ways have screwed up the valves??

 

I hate cars, I replaced the timing belt, drive belt, etc. I didn't adjust the valves. I don't know how to do that, yet. Also, what do you mean by rotating the engine?

 

By saying you rotated the cam wheel both cw & ccw, did you mean a full rotation or just 10-15* or so? If you turned the camwheel a full rotation it could have contacted 1 piston & pushed the crankshaft off the TDC mark. After you get your new belt installed with the tensioner activated always
rotate the c/shaft (engine) at least 2 or 4 or 6 complete turns & line the C/shaft on its TDC mark & make sure both camwheels are on their marks. Don't use the starter, slip the C/S pulley back on & do it that way.

 

I know I turned the rear cam at least one full rotation (possibly more and not sure which way ccw or cw). I did double and triple check the tdc marks on both of the cams and c/shaft. I then put the timing belt on and turned the c/shaft 6 full turns (using that $35 50mm hex tool). I then double and triple checked the tdc marks on all 3 of them and they were all spot on.

 

Don't understand what happened then...
is the camshaft off the removed head? If it is pour some gas or paint thinner (well vented shop or outside) in the exhaust ports & watch & see if it runs right past the ex. valve (like an another post said)do all 3, do the intake ports too, see what's going on.

 

If you turned the cam one full rotation without the belt on, there's one of your problems. Whatever piston was at TDC bent the valves. If you rotated the crank with the belt off, that's also part of the problem unless the cams were taken out of the head.

 

turning the cam by hand will probably have the valve bump whichever piston is is at TDC out of the way. plus he mentioned no compression for the entire bank.

 

A valve will not push a piston that's at tdc. It has little to no leverage on the piston at that point.