When I'm replacing my pads and rotors where exactly do I have to lubricate? I know I have to put the anti squeal stuff on the pads. but does it just go on the back of the pads between them and the shims or on the back of the shims too?

Also do I lube the retainers on the bottom and top of the caliper bracket?
Another question is when i'm pressing the caliper pistons in, to make it easier do I remove the master cyclinder resevoir cap, or just leave it alone?

I'll take Pics while i'm doing it and put together a full DIY.

 

Anti seize/squeal goes on the back of the pads. I don't think it's necessary, but I put it on the back of the shims and the retaining pins as well.

Removing the MC cap isn't going to make much of a difference. Rather than pushing old fluid back up the lines, some prefer to open the bleeder so that old fluid comes out when compressing the piston.

I love the brake setup on the 6MT. Swapping pads is extremely easy since you're not required to pull the caliper to get them off.

 

Here is some reading material on the subject;

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118283

Best regards

 

Wow the front caliper bolts are supposed to have 125 ft/lbs of torque on them.

 

On the 4 piston calipers, you do not remove the caliper. The pads will slide out through the top.

 

Not removing the rotors to properly clean old pad residue is a recipe for noise you will have to pull it all apart to fix again
Per www.hawkperformance.com the Hawk pads website:
Old rotors should be resurfaced or cleaned with 130 grit sandpaper using medium pressure, followed by soap and water wash and dry (with air gun prefered)
then ready to install new pads and do bedding procedure
Follow instructions- do not stop fully during the bedding

The pad quick change feature is a hold-over from racing, when instant change during an endurance race or between sessions is critical
Racers dont care about brake noise and throw their very high dollar rotors away after 1 use----well, actually, they sign them and sell to spectators~

On the calipers- just DO NOT TOUCH THE ALLEN HEAD BOLTS!!!!!
they hold the thing together
the regular bolts are holding it to the bracket
They were not 125 lbs when we took despers 05 apart to replace pads and rotors
Check your specs again

Brake bleeding- outer bleeder first then inner
order on the car is LF driver front
LR RF RR LR
I know its bizarre~
Have fun

 

There is no reason to turn or replace rotors when installing new pads, providing the rotors are in spec. Even the FSM dictates to mic and use a dial indicator, and if ok, clean the rotors and replace the pads. In other words, if no problems are felt within the brake system, just install pads.
You do realize that the max that can be removed from a A/T rotor is only .08" (.04- less than 3/64" a side), and a M/T rotor .07"(.035- @ 1/32" a side), then it's deemed no good. Most shops that turn rotors usually go well beyond the limit, so don't have them turned if not necessary. I'd like to see rotors that have been turned checked with a mic, and it would be amazing how many are undercut. I know the shops I've been involved with could care less about the rotor thickness, as they just crank down the lathe until the cutter runs flush around the rotor on each side.
Most brake noise under light application comes from the movement of the pads ever so slightly within the retainers, and the rubbing on the caliper piston(s). That's why it's important to use the correct anti squeal lunbricant for the job.
Usually if the noise is heard under light application, then more pressure is placed on the brake system, the noise goes away.

Once again, save your money and rotors.

 

The OE rotors have a rep for easy warping from heat stress or failure to cool them down after hot use like in the mountains or long downhill riding the brakes, or just driving in stop and go is brutal on them
Cutting them at first pad change is reasonable and replace at 2nd pad change normal
Thats why so many of us upgrade to aftermarket rotors and pads
Use the brakes to slow the car- they like it!!
And of course clean and lube with brake caliper grease as stated above
Light brake noise that goes away with pressure is usually a edge ridge or glaze

I dont care about hondas manual- that thing doesnt call for fluid change for 3 years- so I am less than confident that it was written in my best interest~
The rotor cleaning directions I copied from Hawk are a good preventative measure

turbonut:
Maybe your a pro tech working flatrate and dont mind a comeback or the service writer tells customer that noise is normal.

For the average azine owner, I try to have them do it right 100 percent quality, the first time- that satisfaction of perfection in ones own garage
A better job than the dealer would ever do- things like cleaning the speed sensor while you are there, and cleaning crud off the piston boot and flushing the fluid first
I did many brake jobs in my career- and with the TL I do get overly retentive but its my baby! So I do extra things that MAY not be required- but then again- depends on the parts and some have requirements- like high performance brake pads need a fresh surface to make a transfer layer of material to the rotor- thats why their instructions are more than -drive it easy for a week

I also track day my car and enjoy some fine mountain roads, so that is where my thoughts on what makes for good brakes comes from

 

No, I'm not a flat rate mechanic, but am also a car fanatic. I don't believe anyone is more anal than I am when it comes to cars. My modified RX-7 Turbo (13PSI) has never been in the rain, only hand washed, waxed, and all mods done by me, and the car is virtually new. Having worked on/raced cars most of my life, I just like to relate my experiences and philosophy when someone asks for an opinion. Actually ran a dragster up to 2 years ago, but decided not to renew my license.

There is nothing wrong with what you have said and what you are doing, but to turn a perfectly good rotor makes no sense at all. My daughter had her Maxima in for tires and alignment, and they stated that she needed new front pads. They would install them for "only" $279 including turning the rotors. Thanks, but no thanks. I installed the pads for $30, used a little brake clean and some emery cloth, and they have been fine for the last 2 years.

There is nothing wrong with replacement of the fluid for 3 years as I've stated before. Most people never change the brake fluid and have no problems. The 4 piston caliper will be more prone to the sticky piston as the condensation will stay at the bottom of the caliper, and attack the lower pistons.

Once again, does it hurt to turn the rotors, as long as they are within specs, then replace them every other pad change, replace the fluid every year, absolutely not. Is it worth the effort and expense-Not in my opinion, as it will be perfectly operable if done according to the FSM.

 

Check the owner book
It slacks for 3 years then wants brake fluid changed once a year after that
Perfectly good sense to me- suggested by most azine members as good idea
Just like on the new cars, they call for trans fluid changes and ps fluid changes and....
maybe even a fuel system cleaning every 15k!!
If the rotors are fine- which as we know most acura rotors are not fine!
then clean with the emory cloth/sandpaper and wash-
you are following the basic idea of removal of old pad material I discussed above
Since most have a wobble by 25k- turning them is just built in to my mindset with pad replacement.
I also think in terms of- most ziners do their own basic work like brake fluid change and oil changes- so teaching them to do it right is a good thing
Sure one can do less of a job on it and usually its ok- and the one person I dont tell the whole method to will come back- my brakes squeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllll and dont stop worth ~~~~

I loved all my RX cars, and the acura brakes are different- lots of things on this car are different- somebody stuck the engine in sideways and stole my driveshaft too!!!!

 

Thank you so much, I have been looking for something like this reading material for a while on the internet before I install my brakes on the 2002 TL-S

 

Where can I get the Pin Driver?