Removed and cleaned the intake manifold and throttle body with Seafoam Deep Creep.

Put everything back together and now my startup goes to 2000 RPMs and then stays there for like 3-5 seconds and then goes down slowly to 900 RPMs.

I also have a check engine light that came on after 10 minutes of driving I need to check out.

Driving-wise, acceleration seems normal.
When I come to a stop, my car will stay at the same speed when I take my foot off the gas.

Then when I stop, my idle is high at 900 RPM and then sometimes jumps to 1000, and then back down.

Tried resetting the ECU.
Startup seemed normal, idle seemed normal, which is not supposed to happen.
The RPM should dip really low and back up to around 700 RPM when at idle.

Then after driving, I got the same symptoms again.
Same startup, and same deceleration.

Shifting to reverse or neutral or drive or park will cause RPMs to increase from 900 RPM to 1200 RPM, and then it will go back down.

Any ideas?
Everything is plugged together. No hose is left off.

 

What did you use to clean the TB? Electronic throttle bodies are extremely sensitive. You didn't force the throttle blade open by hand did you? In most cases doing this bricks the TB. In some cases you can save it by doing the throttle position relearn procedure (not sure if the TL has one, a Google search would be in order). Also, you cannot use carb cleaner to clean an electric TB, you have to use a throttle body cleaner that is specifically made for electronic throttle bodies.

EDIT: I just saw that you used Seafoam Deep Creep to clean everything, does the can say that it is safe for use on electronic throttle bodies? Usually it will say on the can if it is safe for electrical components, if it does not I would assume it is not.

Hopefully this points you in the right direction.

 

I used seafoam deep creep as other members have had good luck with it to clean.
I used my finger to push open the plate to clean everything. They say that it is safe to do so when everything is disconnected, and off the car.

 

Not sure who "they" are, but they're wrong. You aren't supposed to touch the throttle blade at all, and even though the throttle blade has a return spring on it you still aren't supposed to force it open manually. Some people may get lucky and have it not cause any problems. See the link below to try and recalibrate the TB, hopefully it will solve your problem:

http://www.justanswer.com/acura/7de4...-manually.html

 

Hoping your throttle body is still good, you need to recalibrate it. I let my boy "clean" mine, and he fucked up my car making higher RPMs at idle. My mechanic said to buy a new one and I had to recalibrate it. Thinking back, I might have gotten away if I just recalibrated the one I had but I dunno. Good luck bro

 

How do we recalibrated the throttle body?

 

Got the code checked out, it was P2279.

I should mention I did remove the intake manifold to clean everything also.

I went to a shop that specializes in Honda/Acura and the owner told me that it's because i didn't torque down everything correct so I have a air leak somewhere.

I doubt I didn't install the intake manifold correctly.

I went home, unplug battery, removed everything, and installed it again while torqueing down correctly.

Started up the car, held the RPMs at 3000 for like 30 seconds and let go (fans did not kick in yet). I was scared of holding my engine at 3000 RPMs for any longer, even though the instructions say hold it until the fan kicks in. I then let it idle for 5 minutes.

Went on a drive, and everything is MUCH better. Still not the way it was before, but much better. CEL came on, almost a minute after I started up the engine to go on the drive.

I want it back to normal, though, which includes no CEL.
I'm going to visit the shop again tomorrow and see what they think.

 

you will want to see this, (remove the periods)

http://www.v.6.performance.net/forum...y-relearn.html

 

Found exact same info too:

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/11322388-post13.html

 

Hi, I have just cleaned my TB about week ago and I do not have any problems with starting up the car and having CEL or anything, but like everyone said in this thread, When I drive town, and foot off the gas, my car still wants to do straight with same speed and RPM, and also the I shift down, RPM acts little bit weird.

I have talked to honda mechanic and he said, by removing butterfly by hand, it might damage the electronic opener inside and I might have to buy new one.

Is it still possible to fix the problem by resetting TPS with HDS ?

 

Yes.

Reset your TPS using an HDS and it will all be normal.
I brought a printout of the v6 performance link above and had Honda dealership do it.

 

Guitarplayer16: Can you provide me the direct link to the thread again ? Somehow I can not find the right page with "http://www.v.6.performance.net/forum...y-relearn.html" ...

 

Throttle Body Relearn - Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums

 

Remove the periods between v.6.

Acurazine doesn't allow us to link to some car forums.

 

Wilzrsx, Guitarplayer16: Thank you so much for the link and help !

Guitarplayer16: when you had hondadealer do the reset, how much they charged you ?

 

They told me they've never had such a request before, so they charged me half hour of labour, which I believe totaled to $60.
On the receipt the service was labelled as "Special request"

It really only takes like 10 minutes.

 

See the following article on page 2 of the May 2013 Acura Service News:
MIL On With DTC P2279 After Throttle Body Cleaning or Replacement

See the following article on page 5 of the June 2013 Acura Service News:
MIL On With DTC P2279 or P0507 After Throttle Body Servicing
EDITOR’S NOTE: This article replaces “MIL On With DTC P2279 After Throttle Body Cleaning or Replacement,” issued in May 2013.

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...8/#post8398357

 

Guitarplayer16: Thank you ! It only takes 10 min and $60 sounds still just a "little bit high" to me but better than replacing those TB ! Thank you for the info !

EE4Life: I will ! Thanks ! but it says "I am not authorized to view this page..."

 

If you perform a lot of work yourself, it pays off to buy a HDS

$60 was very high indeed.

If you have any friends at Acura or Honda dealer, they can probably do it for free really quick.

 

60.00dlls is not bad 2 have your car humming again i have clean my throle bi forcing it open about 3 times never had any problems

 

I remember I had the throttle body propped up against a recycle bin (drying in the sun from the cleaning), and i think it fell over. Maybe that did something to it.

 

You need to follow the directions at the top of the link to access the older stuff. You shouldn't have the issue accessing the newer stuff.

 

I have a friend at Honda dealer but I believe he is in parts department ... I amnot sure if he can help me out but I will ask him !

And at that time, I am having funny fluttering/ticking noise from Purge valve, and when I touch the hose coming from purge to IM, it has vibration as the noise ticks, does that came from TB cleaning, as well ? May be more vacuum from TB causing it ?

 

I had a rough idle, I thought i wanted to narrow down the exact cause of it so i cleaned the EGR valve first...now my idle is very stable. Problem solved

 

I have actually cleaned my EGR valve as well, but there is still ticking/fluttering noise from purge valve... already replaced purge valve as well but didn't fix the noise...