Car Won't Start (Electrical?)
#1
Racer
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Car Won't Start (Electrical?)
Not sure what's causing this, maybe some of you will have more insight.
Basically, my car will sometimes refuse to start. I tried jumping it, while it seems to help, doesn't always work. So here are some of my observations:
1. If I leave the car off for a few minutes, then try to turn it on again, it will start.
2. If I jump the car, it works about 75% of the time.
3. My RADAR detector reads constant 13.8 - 14.1V except the instances where it will not start, it reads 12.5V and 11.5V when trying to turn.
4. The RADAR detector will randomly shut off while driving (only electrical anomaly I've noticed)
I've already tried replacing the battery. I was using an Optima Yellow Top for the past two years, replaced it with a new one, but issues persist. I don't believe it's an alternator issue with charging the battery either since the RADAR will read a constant 14V while driving. There's also no indication that the vehicle has lost power (don't need to input any of the radio/navi codes).
Anyone have any suggestions where I might investigate next? I'd take it to a mechanic, but it's the long weekend and places will be closed Monday.
Basically, my car will sometimes refuse to start. I tried jumping it, while it seems to help, doesn't always work. So here are some of my observations:
1. If I leave the car off for a few minutes, then try to turn it on again, it will start.
2. If I jump the car, it works about 75% of the time.
3. My RADAR detector reads constant 13.8 - 14.1V except the instances where it will not start, it reads 12.5V and 11.5V when trying to turn.
4. The RADAR detector will randomly shut off while driving (only electrical anomaly I've noticed)
I've already tried replacing the battery. I was using an Optima Yellow Top for the past two years, replaced it with a new one, but issues persist. I don't believe it's an alternator issue with charging the battery either since the RADAR will read a constant 14V while driving. There's also no indication that the vehicle has lost power (don't need to input any of the radio/navi codes).
Anyone have any suggestions where I might investigate next? I'd take it to a mechanic, but it's the long weekend and places will be closed Monday.
#2
Senior Moderator
turn off the car and open the hood, hook up a multimeter to the battery and measure the draw from it, and keep the leads long so you can close the hood.
Close the hood once you get a reading, it should be around 200-300 miliamps.
lock all the doors with the remote and come back 12 minutes later.
Check the draw on the battery now without touching the car. If it is int he 20-30 range you are good, if not, open the hood and pull the fuse for the HFL system, then try again. If that doesn't do it pull the fuses one by one until you get to the one that drops it.
Close the hood once you get a reading, it should be around 200-300 miliamps.
lock all the doors with the remote and come back 12 minutes later.
Check the draw on the battery now without touching the car. If it is int he 20-30 range you are good, if not, open the hood and pull the fuse for the HFL system, then try again. If that doesn't do it pull the fuses one by one until you get to the one that drops it.
#3
all work and no play
when it wont start, I assume its cranking very slowly? if its reading 12.5V on those days when it wont start then I dont think there is a draw on the battery, but it still doesnt hurt to check. 12.5V at rest and 11.5V under load is normal.
You said that trying to jump start it seems to help, but doesnt always work....when it does work does it start cranking like normal or still slowly?
I suspect that the problem is your starter. I used to see the same problem with big trucks when I did road service on them.
good luck
You said that trying to jump start it seems to help, but doesnt always work....when it does work does it start cranking like normal or still slowly?
I suspect that the problem is your starter. I used to see the same problem with big trucks when I did road service on them.
good luck
#4
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Not sure what's causing this, maybe some of you will have more insight.
Basically, my car will sometimes refuse to start. I tried jumping it, while it seems to help, doesn't always work. So here are some of my observations:
1. If I leave the car off for a few minutes, then try to turn it on again, it will start.
2. If I jump the car, it works about 75% of the time.
3. My RADAR detector reads constant 13.8 - 14.1V except the instances where it will not start, it reads 12.5V and 11.5V when trying to turn.
4. The RADAR detector will randomly shut off while driving (only electrical anomaly I've noticed)
I've already tried replacing the battery. I was using an Optima Yellow Top for the past two years, replaced it with a new one, but issues persist. I don't believe it's an alternator issue with charging the battery either since the RADAR will read a constant 14V while driving. There's also no indication that the vehicle has lost power (don't need to input any of the radio/navi codes).
Anyone have any suggestions where I might investigate next? I'd take it to a mechanic, but it's the long weekend and places will be closed Monday.
Basically, my car will sometimes refuse to start. I tried jumping it, while it seems to help, doesn't always work. So here are some of my observations:
1. If I leave the car off for a few minutes, then try to turn it on again, it will start.
2. If I jump the car, it works about 75% of the time.
3. My RADAR detector reads constant 13.8 - 14.1V except the instances where it will not start, it reads 12.5V and 11.5V when trying to turn.
4. The RADAR detector will randomly shut off while driving (only electrical anomaly I've noticed)
I've already tried replacing the battery. I was using an Optima Yellow Top for the past two years, replaced it with a new one, but issues persist. I don't believe it's an alternator issue with charging the battery either since the RADAR will read a constant 14V while driving. There's also no indication that the vehicle has lost power (don't need to input any of the radio/navi codes).
Anyone have any suggestions where I might investigate next? I'd take it to a mechanic, but it's the long weekend and places will be closed Monday.
#6
Racer
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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It's a 2004 Acura TL. I've isolated it down to the starter. I think it's a bad solenoid; it got stuck and wouldn't even click anymore until I hit it a few times. Anyone know where to buy a replacement? I figure it's better than replacing the entire starter.
#7
Senior Moderator
Tim @ hondaacuraworld.com will get you the best pricing.
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#8
all work and no play
I figured it was the starter....but Im skepticle about it just being the solenoid. Its just a switch so I dont think that would be causing your slow cranking, the reason that it stuck is probably due to heat. The starter is an electric motor and is failing causing it to turn slowly....and suck alot of power while doing so. THe inrush of power going through the solenoid is going to cause alot of heat which could cause it to stick.
Good luck....and I second trying Tim, but check your local dealer first to price shop, not worth saving only a few dollars if you can get it fixed asap
Good luck....and I second trying Tim, but check your local dealer first to price shop, not worth saving only a few dollars if you can get it fixed asap
#9
Racer
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Well, it doesn't even crank actually. I've got to try a few times before the starter spins at all. When it does catch, it works as normal. Although, the starter doesn't seem too expensive to just replace the entire unit to be on the safe side.
Thanks for the advice, and I'll give Tim a call in the morning.
Thanks for the advice, and I'll give Tim a call in the morning.
#10
all work and no play
ok then yeah its more than likely the solenoid, I was thinking that you said that it was cranking slowly but you just said it refused to start. If tghe solenoid is mounted on the starter you are better off to just replace them as a pair. They usually come that way anyways
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