Can't find DIY Axle replacement
The following users liked this post:
PJ-Delray Acura (02-09-2012)
02-10-2012, 02:22 PM
#42
2006 Acura TL
What's the part # for the axle ? I need the passenger side since the boot is broken and leaking alot of oil.
02-11-2012, 11:02 AM
#43
2006 Acura TL
Would I need part number 4 on this diagram for my right axle? Mine is leaking lots of Grease. Not to sure which part I need. If someone can point it out on the pic I would appriciate it. Thanks guys
02-11-2012, 07:57 PM
#46
the overexplainer
lol my GSP pass side axle for MT came in thursday. It's pretty hefty. I'll wait one more week at least before installing. Maybe i'll make a picture equipped diy.
02-18-2012, 10:02 PM
#48
the overexplainer
Necro bump, I attempted this today and failed miserably. Messed up the ball joint threads so i couldnt put the damn thing back together (not to mention i couldnt even get the axle separated from the intermediate shaft). Oh well. I was already taking tuesday off and that's when i'll have it towed to the shop first thing in the morning.
But those attempting to DIY i can offer tips (that dont involve the ball joint ha.)
1. Instead of using a huge ass pipe and a breaker bar, just rest the handle of the bar on a jack, and jack the bar up, using the car's weight as leverage. Broke the axle nut loose no problem. No need to jump on a bar, and you have a lot more control.
2. pitman puller from harbor freight works, but it's tricky sliding that thing in with the heatshield in the way. Slide it in from the front first, and angle the puller horizontally and kind of wiggle it in to position. make sure you're not resting the puller fingers on the boot. The scissor style puller does NOT fit unless you grind the center out, but it would be easier to fit than the pitman once you grind the opening bigger (you can attack the ball joint from one side)
oh and dont forget to leave the castle nut on to protect the threads before you start using the puller. Something i forgot to do. GL HF.
3. undo the stabilizer bar link. it allows the LCA to drop further so you can remove the shock fork out of the way (which you also need to remove because that axle boot aint fitting through that fork.
4. good luck doing the passenger side. I tried all sorts of ways with a pry bar but the J pipe takes up a lot of room. I was in the process of taking that off but one bolt (the highest one on the catalytic converter on the b pipe) was difficult and i didnt want to round it off.
5. 14mm 6pt deep socket. Pick one up from harbor freight for like 2 bucks. You'll need it for the J pipe.
i hate suspension work. Probably will be the last time. I called the shop and an axle wouldve been $95 for labor (axle cost $76 from adv. auto). I would have definitely done that -_-. At least i learned a few things.
But those attempting to DIY i can offer tips (that dont involve the ball joint ha.)
1. Instead of using a huge ass pipe and a breaker bar, just rest the handle of the bar on a jack, and jack the bar up, using the car's weight as leverage. Broke the axle nut loose no problem. No need to jump on a bar, and you have a lot more control.
2. pitman puller from harbor freight works, but it's tricky sliding that thing in with the heatshield in the way. Slide it in from the front first, and angle the puller horizontally and kind of wiggle it in to position. make sure you're not resting the puller fingers on the boot. The scissor style puller does NOT fit unless you grind the center out, but it would be easier to fit than the pitman once you grind the opening bigger (you can attack the ball joint from one side)
oh and dont forget to leave the castle nut on to protect the threads before you start using the puller. Something i forgot to do. GL HF.
3. undo the stabilizer bar link. it allows the LCA to drop further so you can remove the shock fork out of the way (which you also need to remove because that axle boot aint fitting through that fork.
4. good luck doing the passenger side. I tried all sorts of ways with a pry bar but the J pipe takes up a lot of room. I was in the process of taking that off but one bolt (the highest one on the catalytic converter on the b pipe) was difficult and i didnt want to round it off.
5. 14mm 6pt deep socket. Pick one up from harbor freight for like 2 bucks. You'll need it for the J pipe.
i hate suspension work. Probably will be the last time. I called the shop and an axle wouldve been $95 for labor (axle cost $76 from adv. auto). I would have definitely done that -_-. At least i learned a few things.
Last edited by ez12a; 02-18-2012 at 10:15 PM.
02-18-2012, 10:59 PM
#49
Senior Moderator
Regions Leader
Regions Leader
My axle nut was not going to come off.....regardless how much leverage I had
I was in the same situation.....I didnt think Id ever get my axle off.... but instead of using a big huge punch (what the manual says)
I used a bar that I just put straight up there and hit very hard with a hammer....as long as you hold enough pressure to keep the axle on the C clip it will pop off
I didnt remove my Jpipe, I almost resorted to it but i did finally get the axle off.
I cant stress this enough, you have to get a ball joint remover....take the entire rotor/bearing assembly off...... it will look like this when you have everything off.
You just have to have patience....something that I lacked when I first started.....there was nothing I could do to get that nut off other then drill it off. But once you get the nut off, you remove the upper and lower ball joint...and the stablizer bar...
I agree that the shield and Jpipe do not give you much room, but if you jack the car high enough and you get it just right it will come out......I didnt take a picture of how I did it but I can throw my car back on jack stands and take pics of what i did if anyone needs to see it.
Getting it off is a bitch, i wont lie, but once you do, I took all of an hour to put it all back together. You'll need cotter keys for the ball joints and I would recommend using anti sieze on the axle shaft before you put the new nut back on.....it will help you achieve the torque easier.
I was in the same situation.....I didnt think Id ever get my axle off.... but instead of using a big huge punch (what the manual says)
I used a bar that I just put straight up there and hit very hard with a hammer....as long as you hold enough pressure to keep the axle on the C clip it will pop off
I didnt remove my Jpipe, I almost resorted to it but i did finally get the axle off.
I cant stress this enough, you have to get a ball joint remover....take the entire rotor/bearing assembly off...... it will look like this when you have everything off.
You just have to have patience....something that I lacked when I first started.....there was nothing I could do to get that nut off other then drill it off. But once you get the nut off, you remove the upper and lower ball joint...and the stablizer bar...
I agree that the shield and Jpipe do not give you much room, but if you jack the car high enough and you get it just right it will come out......I didnt take a picture of how I did it but I can throw my car back on jack stands and take pics of what i did if anyone needs to see it.
Getting it off is a bitch, i wont lie, but once you do, I took all of an hour to put it all back together. You'll need cotter keys for the ball joints and I would recommend using anti sieze on the axle shaft before you put the new nut back on.....it will help you achieve the torque easier.
02-18-2012, 11:01 PM
#50
Senior Moderator
Regions Leader
Regions Leader
Here is a pic of the new shaft after I installed it...I had only put everything back in place, i hadnt torqued anything yet.....also the caliper wasnt on yet
02-18-2012, 11:10 PM
#51
the overexplainer
yeah, i didnt have any problems moving the knuckle out of the way and putting it all together (minus the ball joint) was pretty fast.
Sucks i was so damn close..if ball joint was OK and the axle popped out I'd be set.
thanks for the tips...i would have loved to see the picture of how you propped the bar to pop the axle out. I did try leveraging against the intermediate shaft bearing mount etc (with the pry bar hanging down in front of the oil pan area), and hammering but it didnt work. I also think my jack just doesnt lift the car high enough (jack height 15") to get much leverage.
Sucks i was so damn close..if ball joint was OK and the axle popped out I'd be set.
thanks for the tips...i would have loved to see the picture of how you propped the bar to pop the axle out. I did try leveraging against the intermediate shaft bearing mount etc (with the pry bar hanging down in front of the oil pan area), and hammering but it didnt work. I also think my jack just doesnt lift the car high enough (jack height 15") to get much leverage.
02-18-2012, 11:19 PM
#52
Senior Moderator
Regions Leader
Regions Leader
Man, ill tell ya, I freakin panicked. That first pic I posted was before I got that damn shaft out.....I tried just about everything......
But finally I just put a solid steel bar, which i had to keep cutting to make it so it would fit under the car with me right next to the #6 piece in that diagram. I had that bar straight up and down, no angle at all. I held pressure against it and tried to just push on it at first....then I got pissed and hit it with a big ass hammer....bout the third hit I felt it pop. I pulled it out and popped the new shaft on......talk about breathing a sigh of relief...
I actually used a jack on each side of the car to get it high enough.....I think I had my jack stand on the third notch.....but still it wouldve been sooooo much easier if my car was on a lift.....but needless to say I think everything is pretty much cut and dry until you have to pop that damn shaft out.
I was even considering just pulling my Jpipe out and buying the excellerate one to resinstall lol
But finally I just put a solid steel bar, which i had to keep cutting to make it so it would fit under the car with me right next to the #6 piece in that diagram. I had that bar straight up and down, no angle at all. I held pressure against it and tried to just push on it at first....then I got pissed and hit it with a big ass hammer....bout the third hit I felt it pop. I pulled it out and popped the new shaft on......talk about breathing a sigh of relief...
I actually used a jack on each side of the car to get it high enough.....I think I had my jack stand on the third notch.....but still it wouldve been sooooo much easier if my car was on a lift.....but needless to say I think everything is pretty much cut and dry until you have to pop that damn shaft out.
I was even considering just pulling my Jpipe out and buying the excellerate one to resinstall lol
Last edited by trancemission; 02-18-2012 at 11:46 PM.
02-21-2012, 05:12 PM
#53
the overexplainer
shop put it in after a whole ordeal with the tow truck driver (wasnt very considerate, ended up bending my fender out a bit when my wheel popped off because he refused to use a jack. used a piece of wood wrapped in cloth and my body weight to push it back in.).
No vibrations, no clicking. Let's hope this GSP axle lasts.
No vibrations, no clicking. Let's hope this GSP axle lasts.
02-21-2012, 05:19 PM
#54
It took me a total of about 4 hours I'd say.
Yeah it was my first time doing one. Being a mechanic I figured it wouldn't be that hard.
I used a puller for the ball joint. Those weren't the big issue for me.
what sucked was the axel nut, that was a fucking pain, I worked on just the nut for about an hour and a half
Getting the shaft out was challenging but I finally prevailed.
Going back together was cake......im so glad I did this......it solved all the issues I was having with my front end.
Yeah it was my first time doing one. Being a mechanic I figured it wouldn't be that hard.
I used a puller for the ball joint. Those weren't the big issue for me.
what sucked was the axel nut, that was a fucking pain, I worked on just the nut for about an hour and a half
Getting the shaft out was challenging but I finally prevailed.
Going back together was cake......im so glad I did this......it solved all the issues I was having with my front end.
02-21-2012, 11:23 PM
#55
Senior Moderator
Regions Leader
Regions Leader
well....i had a high frequency vibration that seems to have gone away.
The clicking or clanking sound when I turn on power is gone.
So far that it about it......I did however hear a clicking on the other side now but I only heard it once on a really cold day, havent heard it since so I dont know what that couldve been yet...
The clicking or clanking sound when I turn on power is gone.
So far that it about it......I did however hear a clicking on the other side now but I only heard it once on a really cold day, havent heard it since so I dont know what that couldve been yet...
02-22-2012, 01:20 AM
#56
well....i had a high frequency vibration that seems to have gone away.
The clicking or clanking sound when I turn on power is gone.
So far that it about it......I did however hear a clicking on the other side now but I only heard it once on a really cold day, havent heard it since so I dont know what that couldve been yet...
The clicking or clanking sound when I turn on power is gone.
So far that it about it......I did however hear a clicking on the other side now but I only heard it once on a really cold day, havent heard it since so I dont know what that couldve been yet...
04-08-2012, 02:29 PM
#57
Burning Brakes
I'm about to replace both my shafts. Got a slight wobble under torque around 50 to 65 mph in 4th/5th gears. Local shop checked and both sides are loose but it feels more noticeable on the passenger side. While they were checking that out it looks like my control arm bushings are cracked too so gonna take care of that as well at the same time.
I'll probably order the parts from OEM-Tim and then just pay for the labor. I was quoted ~$550 for both side, parts and labor and quoted $90 for labor so based on Trance's experience and time it's worth the money for someone else to 'bust-a-nut' on that one.
I've got 175k miles on my 04 so based on my driving habits i think they have held up very well.
I'll probably order the parts from OEM-Tim and then just pay for the labor. I was quoted ~$550 for both side, parts and labor and quoted $90 for labor so based on Trance's experience and time it's worth the money for someone else to 'bust-a-nut' on that one.
I've got 175k miles on my 04 so based on my driving habits i think they have held up very well.
04-08-2012, 06:05 PM
#58
Instructor
Uggghh... No need to remove the entire knuckle. Remove caliper and separate lower ball joint... move hub out of the way.
If you want to preserve the ball joint you have to keep impact and pressure away from threads. Pickle forks and ball joint separator tools usually equate to torn boots or destroyed threads.
One way to separate ball joint is to tap (pound) lower control arm near ball joint. Vibration will separate it eventually. Just don't hit the ball joint.
If you want to preserve the ball joint you have to keep impact and pressure away from threads. Pickle forks and ball joint separator tools usually equate to torn boots or destroyed threads.
One way to separate ball joint is to tap (pound) lower control arm near ball joint. Vibration will separate it eventually. Just don't hit the ball joint.
06-01-2014, 08:23 PM
#59
7th Gear
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Downtown Manhattan, New York
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys can anyone can help me out here I'm looking for a front axel for the 3 gen tl type s... my passenger side is make a loud bang every time I turn my wheel to the left
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cycdaniel
1G TSX Performance Parts & Modifications
8
12-17-2019 10:58 AM
