glenawill

My A/C has failed, and I am looking for advice on getting it repaired. I took it to both my dealer and my regular repair shop for diagnosis.

My dealer says it could be either the clutch or the compressor. They said they can't tell for sure without replacing the clutch. The want about $400 to replace the clutch and recharge. If it turns out to need a compressor, it will cost another $654. They will not charge additional labor for it. I asked them if the receiver/drier needs to be replaced, and he said no, not unless the compressor blew up, and it doesn't look like that happened. Total cost either $400 or $1,054.

My regular repair shop does not offer a separate clutch replacement, and said it needs a new compressor. They said it also should have the receiver/drier replaced at the same time. Total cost $1,000 for reman compressor installed, or $1,134 for new compressor installed, both costs including receiver/drier and charge.

I've read on this site that you should always get the receiver/drier replaced, my dealer says it's not always necessary. Of course, it's possible they'd get the compressor off, and call me and tell me I need that as well. In general, this dealer has not seemed try to pad the bill.

Thoughts? I'm tempted to try for the cheaper repair, but if I end up needing the compressor, and if I want to insist on the receiver/drier that will likely add several hundred dollars, and my repair shop will be a better price.

Glen

glenawill

I should have mentioned I have a 2005 TL with 130,000 original miles on it.

erdoc48

Your dealership (or any for that matter) is not an HVAC specialist. I would find an auto HVAC specialist before the trial and error method of replacing parts that may not actually need replacement.

glenawill

Thanks for your reply erdoc48. I see your point, but I am not sure how to know if I am dealing with an HVAC specialist. My repair shop (not the dealer) is where I get most of my work done, and they have been very reasonable and competent in other repairs. I tried searching for "auto HVAC repair'. I get a list of shops, but have no way to know who is competent.

Prior to the A/C failing, the A/C had not been as cool as expected, and then I heard a grinding sound for 5-10 seconds, and then the A/C went warm. I also smelled a burning smell at the same time. The system has pressure and coolant, but the clutch is not turning now.

I hate cars

I don't like how they just throw parts at it at your expense. That's not how things work. They're required to properly diagnose and fix a problem, not replace parts at your expense until it gets fixed. If they said that to me they would have their hands full.

No need to replace the dryer unless the compressor died which it most likely did. The fact that you heard a grinding noise and then the burning smell tells me you're looking at a new compressor. Did it smell like burning brakes? The compressor probably locked up and made the clutch slip and burn up.

This isn't rocket science, I used to see if I could turn the compressor by hand (not the pulley but the center part). If I couldn't turn it, I knew what the problem was.

glenawill

Yeah, which makes me more inclined to go to my repair shop, since they seem confident it is the compressor.

Any thoughts on getting a reman versus new compressor?

invalidalias

I think you're getting a great bargain! To replace a compressor at no addl't charge...thats awesome. clutch coils go out all the time. Have them replace the known failed part and drive the car for a while then if it fails then have em throw a compressor in it.

As for erdoc48 I work as a tech at a dealership and have my AC license. Im not sure where you are getting your information

erdoc48

I extend my apologies if you feel insulted- not meaning to do that, but I don't believe in just replacing parts indiscriminately without knowing what part is actually faulty, and according to the OP, that's what it sounds like his shop wants to do, with him on the financial hook.

glenawill

I'm not sure if this is true, but the dealer tech was suggesting that if I got the compressor replaced, I'd want the clutch anyway. Since they are not charging additional labor if it ends up needing the compressor, I am not putting any additional $$ at risk by trying the clutch first to see if that fixes it.

If that is wrong, and it would be reasonable to replace just the compressor without the clutch, then I agree they are taking an experimental approach at my expense.

If I go with the repair shop, and not the dealer, any thoughts on the difference between a reman and a new compressor? It's $130 price difference. I've seen people on this forum say always get new, but I haven't seen any explanation on why.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Like IHC (Matt) stated, there isn't much to the system. Remove the belt and turn the clutch to see if any noise, check resistance of coil to be sure it is specs 3.9-4.3 at 68 degrees. Start the engine engage the compressor and watch the clutch, if it stops for a split second or longer the compressor is locking up. I'd replace the complete compressor and clutch assembly and as a precautionary measure the receiver/dryer also as it is very inexpensive. I've replaced locked compressors without replacement of the receiver/dryer and never had a problem, but if the system is contaminated with debris, which I doubt, that requires more work.

Get a compressor w/clutch $227 reman, or $289 new from Rock Auto, receiver/dryer $18.
Use code 65984515480936 thru 10/16/11 and receive an additional 5% off.

I hate cars

You're not allowed to agree with me. I take it back, it's probably the evaporator... Kidding of course.

USNA93

Old thread but since my experience relates, I thought I'd provide a current story. Bottom line, I think one should get a second opinion. My AC started to work intermittently during a road trip to the south...it would not cool well and even cranking up the fan speed, it didn't put any cool air out. My workaround was to shut off the system for 5-10 minutes then turn it back on, on low setting and it would start cooling a little bit...enough to make it decent in the car despite the 95 degree heat and humidity outside. Took it to my dealer and they wanted $775 to fix the leak, recharge the system, and replace the (I think it was) cooling line/piping. (I'm not as familiar with the car's AC system components). I got them to agree with me that $775 is a chunk of change and not a miniscule amount...and let them know I was going to get a second opinion. I took it to a local auto repair chain with great ratings for their assessment. They told me they found the AC system's Schrader valve was leaking so they replaced it, did the dye test, and recharged the system....$91 out the door. I had to eat the $100 dealership AC assessment fee but I still have about $550 more in my pocket than if I would have blindly went with the dealer. I'll use the dealer for some big ticket stuff (i.e. timing belt) but will continue to be wary of what they tell me.