Brake touching rotor while drivng?
#1
Brake touching rotor while drivng?
So I replaced my brakes and rotors recently and the back are good, but the front are giving me trouble. The new ones feel like there is some kind of resistance on them and they also make a weird road noise when driving. Definitely sounds louder than before with my old brakes and rotors. I did notice though that the passenger side was more worn than my driver side when I replaced them.
I also do not know when my brake fluid was changed last but taking a look at it, it seems pretty ugly...
Thoughts?
I also do not know when my brake fluid was changed last but taking a look at it, it seems pretty ugly...
Thoughts?
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italianman (07-26-2015)
#3
Drifting
Another way you can check is drive the car around for a little while then stop the car and touch the rotors to see if they're hot. If it is you got problems. Maybe calipers sticking or parts out of spec (aftermarket parts).
Probably flush your brakes once every 3 years... check your owners manual under maintenance schedule.
Probably flush your brakes once every 3 years... check your owners manual under maintenance schedule.
The following users liked this post:
italianman (07-26-2015)
#4
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
#5
Another way you can check is drive the car around for a little while then stop the car and touch the rotors to see if they're hot. If it is you got problems. Maybe calipers sticking or parts out of spec (aftermarket parts).
Probably flush your brakes once every 3 years... check your owners manual under maintenance schedule.
Probably flush your brakes once every 3 years... check your owners manual under maintenance schedule.
For one thing, the passenger front one (note: this rotor is a couple days old) is already getting a ring on the rotor. Kinda looks like it's being ground in almost...
I will probably do a flush and I would do it, but being shot handed on time doesn't really make it easy. I was thinking to have my trusted mechanic look at the fluid, see what he says.
I see your concern there haha.
I was able to actually touch the rotors with the back of my hand and it did not scold me. Just try not to let the hand slip onto the rotor... (whoops).
Last edited by italianman; 07-26-2015 at 06:18 PM.
#6
Instructor
Just had this problem. It started out as this https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...s-heat-932616/ . And then it ended with new, pads, rotors and calipers in the back. The only reason I didn't catch is sooner was because I only got it checked out once I felt the car being lazy and feeling like I was being pulled backwards. Have it addressed soon and you may be able to save the rotors and pads.
#7
Just had this problem. It started out as this https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...s-heat-932616/ . And then it ended with new, pads, rotors and calipers in the back. The only reason I didn't catch is sooner was because I only got it checked out once I felt the car being lazy and feeling like I was being pulled backwards. Have it addressed soon and you may be able to save the rotors and pads.
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#9
Three Wheelin'
I replaced my rear rotors recently and had a similar issue.
Rear Left rotor would get really hot. To the point, I can walk by the car after parking it in my driveway and feel the heat.
Problem ended up being my caliper pins needed to be lubricated. Honestly, this is the first time I cleaned them in the 171k miles I've had the car.
Guess grease gets old over time, which caused the caliper to stick.
Rear Left rotor would get really hot. To the point, I can walk by the car after parking it in my driveway and feel the heat.
Problem ended up being my caliper pins needed to be lubricated. Honestly, this is the first time I cleaned them in the 171k miles I've had the car.
Guess grease gets old over time, which caused the caliper to stick.
#10
I replaced my rear rotors recently and had a similar issue.
Rear Left rotor would get really hot. To the point, I can walk by the car after parking it in my driveway and feel the heat.
Problem ended up being my caliper pins needed to be lubricated. Honestly, this is the first time I cleaned them in the 171k miles I've had the car.
Guess grease gets old over time, which caused the caliper to stick.
Rear Left rotor would get really hot. To the point, I can walk by the car after parking it in my driveway and feel the heat.
Problem ended up being my caliper pins needed to be lubricated. Honestly, this is the first time I cleaned them in the 171k miles I've had the car.
Guess grease gets old over time, which caused the caliper to stick.
Just for knowing sake, if I were to get grease for the bolts, what would I need?
#11
Instructor
#12
Drifting
Caliper mounting pins: inspect them for wear. Any imperfections on them like rust, burs, nicks should be replace. It could cause binding/uneven wear. Grease thoroughly.
Brake shoe slider plates like the ones in the diy should be replaced. It's rusted, that will have different friction than the smooth parts causing uneven pad wear; possibly binding. You can put a light film of grease on them too.
I believe oem pads will come with new slider plates. If not buy some.
#13
Three Wheelin'
this is the grease I picked up at advanced auto
I cleaned out whatever grease was in the rubber boot and applied a decent coating on the caliper pin.
I also, cleaned out the orifice the caliper pin slides into. guess that's the caliper carrier.
I cleaned out whatever grease was in the rubber boot and applied a decent coating on the caliper pin.
I also, cleaned out the orifice the caliper pin slides into. guess that's the caliper carrier.
#14
Grease. Here's a good write up from the TSX forum that touches on it. https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...cement-790452/
Any high temp grease will do... like bearing grease
Caliper mounting pins: inspect them for wear. Any imperfections on them like rust, burs, nicks should be replace. It could cause binding/uneven wear. Grease thoroughly.
Brake shoe slider plates like the ones in the diy should be replaced. It's rusted, that will have different friction than the smooth parts causing uneven pad wear; possibly binding. You can put a light film of grease on them too.
I believe oem pads will come with new slider plates. If not buy some.
Caliper mounting pins: inspect them for wear. Any imperfections on them like rust, burs, nicks should be replace. It could cause binding/uneven wear. Grease thoroughly.
Brake shoe slider plates like the ones in the diy should be replaced. It's rusted, that will have different friction than the smooth parts causing uneven pad wear; possibly binding. You can put a light film of grease on them too.
I believe oem pads will come with new slider plates. If not buy some.
this is the grease I picked up at advanced auto
Amazon.com: Permatex 24110 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube, 8 oz.: Automotive
I cleaned out whatever grease was in the rubber boot and applied a decent coating on the caliper pin.
I also, cleaned out the orifice the caliper pin slides into. guess that's the caliper carrier.
Amazon.com: Permatex 24110 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube, 8 oz.: Automotive
I cleaned out whatever grease was in the rubber boot and applied a decent coating on the caliper pin.
I also, cleaned out the orifice the caliper pin slides into. guess that's the caliper carrier.
How did you clean the old grease out? Any special way?
#15
My front right wheel has been giving me trouble too. Have replaced rotors/pads (twice) and replaced caliper with the second swap. For some reason, the pad STILL does not wear against the rotor correctly. You can see how more pressure is applied at the top of the rotor than bottom.
Wish I had suggestions or fix for you!
Wish I had suggestions or fix for you!
#16
Drifting
My front right wheel has been giving me trouble too. Have replaced rotors/pads (twice) and replaced caliper with the second swap. For some reason, the pad STILL does not wear against the rotor correctly. You can see how more pressure is applied at the top of the rotor than bottom.
Wish I had suggestions or fix for you!
Wish I had suggestions or fix for you!
And even is relative, does not mean perfectly equal. Just means getting full use of the pad/friction material. It's perfectly normal to have slightly more wear on one side or one end. Just not binding or excessive wear. Like one side is worn to the limit and the other is halfway. Something like that is a problem.
Sometimes when you use aftermarket pads with another aftermarket rotor (two different brands) they don't fit perfectly and the pads are not centered on the rotors.
Oem pads and rotors fit perfectly bc they're matched to each other and the car.
Last edited by 01acls; 07-27-2015 at 02:55 PM.
The following users liked this post:
italianman (07-27-2015)
#17
Three Wheelin'
believe it was 7.99 at advanced. What I did was wrap one of those blue shop towels around a screw driver and just kept turning until the majority of the grease was cleaned out.
#18
A loaner 1999 Chevy Lumina LTZ is just not the same lol.
#19
I have my car back from the shop and they said everything looks great, nothing wrong. So I got the fluid changed out and it drives nice. Maybe that was it or I just need to break in the new rotors and brakes...? I'll see how everything is this weekend while I'm driving on the highway.
Either way, eventually I'll replace the calipers. Thanks for the advise everyone!
Either way, eventually I'll replace the calipers. Thanks for the advise everyone!
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