I searched and read millions of threads. And lots of opinions. I heard redline type f is great but can't be ran without a mix or it will cause a slip or whine? Basically in one choice what's the best ATF I just want tranny to last period I will do my switches as well. But I want the BEST ATF to make my auto trans last. Not trying to start a whole thread of BS. Just want a couple inputs. Like I said I researched and everyone thread is different.

 

So did i search a million threads and read them, and ended up the "type F" of ATF - without friction modifier additive. It wasn't redline it was amsoil super shift becuz it was easier(and faster) to get, and just finished my 3x3 today (86k miles, 07)


guess what



this thing shifts like manual @ WOT. not quite like power shifting, but the fastest shift a normal person can ever do USING the clutch.


I used to be jealous of 6spd guys, but now i bet they'll be jealous of me


so super smooth slipping shifting wears out clutch, that's why I went with type F(as in, non-friction modified)

my previous car(NAG1 W5A580 or Mercedes 722.6 5spd auto) had too much line pressure that some people would complain with 100% stock fluid, tranny, whatever, but when I bought this TL 1.5k mile ago, it was shifting too soft.

Now it's a car shifting firm enough (but you don't feel it @ par throttle, it's that quick - less time slipping - more clutch life)

1. no whine
2. no slip(shudder) - it does slip but that's torque converter when not locked up
3. I plan to keep this upscale honda for at least 100k more miles.


OR,, just get extended warranty up to 160k miles or something and put honda fluid.... -> make them pay for whatever goes wrong (just my .02)

 

How come when I type in my 2008 Acura on Amsoil's website it doesn't list the Super Shift as an option?

In fact, the only fluid that is recommended is the synthetic ATF. And under the ATF description it states it's not to be used in applications which call for type F which is what Super Shift is designed for. See what I'm getting at?

 

Instead of constantly questioning stuff that has been settled and explained 2 years ago, try a search. Do you honestly think you're the first to think of this and do you think it hasn't been addressed 100 times before? You've been hand fed enough. If you don't like it, don't fucking run it, end of story. Run Z1, don't replace the switches that you constantly question and shut the fuck up.

Hondacrx2- If you can't make up your mind by now, nothing can help you. You keep asking the same old shit over and over again. Stick with Z1, it's perfect for people like you and dece.

 

NICE REPLY-Not taking your Prozac?
You know, people don't always agree with your philosophy and they have every right to express what their findings might be whether you like it or not. Just calm down and if you can't reply in the proper manner, don't reply at all.

 

My goodness I hate cars, you get so worked up. If everyone just searches and searches we'll never have new and refreshed conversations. Perhaps this info exists, but if it's old enough there will be no mention of DW-1.

It's ok Turbonut, I know what IHC is all about now. I've seen his rants and raves enough about the search thing. And I'm sure they'll continue. But sometimes when he isn't acting up he actually can have something useful to say. So I just ignore the diatribes. It's all good.

Bearcat94, are you are getting any of this? This is what I'm talking about.

 

You didn't answer my question. I get that you didn't like my question but I'd like your opinion. That's why I presented it. To get others opinions on it.

So again, why is Super Shift not an option for the Acura TL? And why should I use it when Amsoil doesn't recommend it? I understand it's my right to use it or not. But give me some technical reason from your knowledge bank; not the work of others.

You're very quick to point others in another direction. Why not take a second and teach us why Super Shift is a viable option. I'd like to hear you angle on it.

 

It's been answered before many times! Amsoil, Redline, and any others will never ever recommend a Type F fluid for the TL. It would make very bad business sense. Look in the original ATF thread and Inaccurate's e-mails with Dave at Redline. You have to ask the right question in the right way but they will tell you it won't hurt anything but it can't be recommended. If I owned one of those companies I wouldn't recommend it either. Look around this board alone, there was one instance of a very high mileage trans failing and one instance of a supposed failure that turned out to be the switches installed wrong. Both were on Type F and the fluid got the immediate blame because it's "different" than the factory fill.

 

People don't have to agree, that's normal. I enjoy civil discussions but all of this has been answered before and it's on this board. I thought when I was spending hours a day in the ATF thread it was for good reason. Whether someone agreed or disagreed, that thread was a point of reference so I wouldn't have to go through all of this again.

 

Simple answer: Because Type-F fluid does not meet the Honda/Acura spec.

Much of the discussion on the why's and wherefores are here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/racing-atf-764322/

There is also discussion on the differences between the old Honda fluid (Z1) and the new fluid (DW? - whatever it's called). I don't have the link(s) for that.


Lots of people have had questions and reservations about running a non-standard/non-recommended fluid. Each person should read the link above and other relevant discussion threads then make their own informed decision.

================================================== ===========



IHC - you have PM.

 

Appreciate the link. That blood on the table is from me biting my tongue.

 

IHC get banned over this?

 

No, he got temp banned for failing to listen to warning after warning- he was given a fair opportunity to avoid this.

 

ahh.. well that makes sense. I should have figured as much, back OT.

if only he had an ignore button for atf, transmission issues, and brake fluid threads.

New guys.. you searched, you read.. you're still skeptical. Nothing new and understandable. But starting another discussion on the topic is asinine.

As IHC stated, stick with the OEM fluid if you feel like going against mfg recommendation is going to risk your transmission. Just stay up on regular maintenance. I would recommend 1/2 interval service / accelerated fluid change intervals if sticking with OEM fluid.

 

I must appoligize to IHC he answered this question in another thread to me after I posted this one. So he proably thinks I was asking again...... But I must say every single thing about almost every car is the internet either here or honda-tech ect. So there should be no new threads ever about repair..... So the search theory is over played by people who already know the info. Catch my drift. Every repair question is answers already so there should never ever be another thread. If it really bothers someone so much don't read the thread. I don't make you click on the thread or type a reply. I am not making you answer my question. I simply made a thread to get a new up to date reply. So if type F fluid was said to have bad long term affects I didn't miss it and screw my car.

Long story short sorry to IHC. He deff has good advise and knows his stuff.

And lastly I am OCD about my car I like to get actual feedback to my question. Not some answer that's only half of the answer because someone else asked it differently.

 

Now with that said I went to change my ATF today and this happened to my drain bolt.



Think Honda can get it out and put a new one in?

 

It can still be taken out. But I don't advise YOU doing so.

You have a profile on HT don't you??

 

Yea I have a couple forums. That's what happens after 10 honda's. And no I am not touching it. It goes to Honda on thur. And hole they won't charge arm and a leg.

 

I should have just put it on a lift and used a impact gun. But owell my fault.

 

Find an indie mechanic to do a drain and fill. Bring them a new drain plug to replace. Shouldn't be more than $100 if you bring the fluid.

 

Also, the drain plug shouldn't be on there very tight. It looks like you leveraged the bolt away from the center axis. It's also best to do this when the motor is still relatively warm.

 

I got my car 3 wks ago from this honda dealership so maybe if I am lucky they will think it was like that and just take car of it. And they said 40$ for the drain and fill. I am not going to mention the bolt unless they ask.