So if you've looked at my history I've been dealing with lean banks 1 and 2 since I swapped this odyssey engine earlier this year still haven't been able to fix that issue no matter what I do nonetheless the vehicle was still drivable.

Up until recently last week my engine started having a rough idle shaking at red lights fine when driving maybe a bit weaker when it comes to acceleration but I could tell something was off I was initially hoping it was a motor mount or two gone bad but not with my luck anyways beginning yesterday I had flashing cel light briefly and today it came back full solid with the codes P0404 P0171 P0174 (these are my lean codes and egr valve performance problem) and new codes being P0300 P0301 P0302 P0303 P0304 P0305 P0306 (Multiple cylinder misfires and everyone of my cylinders misfiring detected) So I went ahead and took all the spark plugs out and will say they do look worn for brand new ones that I installed back in March when i put my used odyssey engine together and one of the ignition coils looks like it was melting a bit if that makes sense (will include photos).

I'm not sure if the lean code issue exacerbated and caused all these issues I will say that when the car starts at times it does make a rough scrapping sound (the type no one diyer wants to hear from their vehicle)

I'm waiting for my old man to come home to take a glimpse but it looks like I might just have to purchase and use a new set of spark plugs and one ignition coil. Just wanted a bit of feed back before I make my purchase at rockauto thoughts, opinions, and facts are appreciated from you guys who've helped me numerous times over the years.



​​​​​​You can see that 5/6 have the typical white coat on them

 

First, I would never recommend continuing to drive with a known lean running engine. lean conditions damage pistons, rings, etc.
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The ecu will try to compensate with up to 20% of fuel trim above the normal amount. So if you're still running lean, there is something wrong.

Timing, fuel or spark are the variables to look at for misfires.

Based on what you've described. I'd be looking at the fuel pump first. Not to shotgun, but for pressure and volume.

Are those even the right plugs. a 5 temp is pretty high. 6 is probably normal. I run 7s in my sc j32

 

Just a follow up I replaced all sparkplugs and one of the coils that had looked like it was burnt a bit. All in all no change was really made. I'm assuming like the first reply I got the Pistons or rings are giving me this issue. I already changed the fuel pump, fuel injectors, EVAP purge selonoid, egr valve etc etc in the last few months (I've tried to be as vigilant as possible. I'm chalking it up to me having bought a bad engine when I originally did the swap earlier this year (it's been throwing lean codes since the installation).

So moving forward im thinking today after work I'd grab and use some engine restore just to buy me a few weeks worth of time before I have to do major work.

I'd like to ask you guys how hard is it to change pistons and rings myself or would I be better off getting a new used engine from my local lkq which has plenty odysseys and TLs since forever (last time I purchased my used engine from an actual parts dealer in opalocka for about a grand smh) so I know I could get one for much cheaper.

I'm doubting it's a valve issue but If is I do have a set of RL heads I was waiting to finally clear my lean codes before installing them.
I even have my old j32 engine but haven't been able to bust the head bolts not sure if I can do anything with that to save me time and money

Any word of advice would be great I know I maybe should do a compression test but at this point don't feel it's necessary to spend another 30-50 bucks at harbor freight compared to the 10-20 bucks for a bottle of engine restore at Walmart.

 

Perhaps price out the costs between the piston / ring swap option and the best low priced / low mile J35A6 you can find, & go with the lowest cost, lowest hassle option?

You sound pretty mechanically inclined & have already been through an engine swap, so it should be easier the second time around?
Good Luck!

P.S. Opa-Locka is a pretty rough part of town to visit. My parents moved us out of Carol City, in the mid 70's, so you brave.

 

Thanks, more like poor, stupid and trying to avoid car payments

 

Just curious.
In trying to remedy your misfires this time around, when you replaced your plugs did you go a step 'cooler', like 619rcr mentioned above?
Not sure if there is much of a difference?
For instance, when I look on RockAuto at the Denso PlatiniumTT for the '06 J32A3 it's a Denso #4504; whereas, '06 Odyssey calls for a Denso #4503.

 

Both sets were 5's

First ones https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...916826&jsn=723
Second ones https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=7212&jsn=1

 

Went to the local junkyards today, somebody ate all my j35a6 lunches found one that was still in the odyssey and spend about an hour to take the front head off saw the block was filled with water and just looking contrary to gods will, gonna rest and figure out my options I can't beat the junkyard dogs that are able to show up 9am monday through friday. That being said Im pretty sure the engine restore has bought me a bit of time

 

I think this was actually a tsb put out by Acura. You need a valve adjustment. I was looking through the service records from the previous owner of my car and she had lean codes. Dealer adjusted valve and all was good.

 

Also, I know you said you replaced the egr valve but make sure there’s nothing sticking the egr valve open. My car started misfiring the other week with no codes. I checked the egr valve and a small piece of my cat lodged itself in the egr valve making it run lean and misfire.

 

Thanks for the help but if you take a look at a post I made previously here trying to solve my lean codes you will see I did 2 valve adjustments. One before I dropped the engine in and a second once the codes started popping up. Mind you I'm no technician but also no slouch. I will say although I'm not 💯 I did go by the specs for the TL found in the manual and not the specs for the j35a6. Also to add onto your comment about the egr I just switched it out with the old one off my j32a3 which are the same part # to clear that code although It didn't appear to show anything keeping it open.

To anyone else looking to help I am doing further investigating and noticed what appeared to be wet oil coming from the side of my front valve cover near my egr which might explain a lot and wiped it clean a few days ago but the rain here in FL has been impeding me to further explore like a southwest airline flight 😅😅.

If no luck doing my due diligence I'll be taking her into the shop for the fourth time this one being the second "Honda specialist" out of the self proclaimed who hasn't been able to help me yet.

 

Another update, I decided to make a last ditch effort and change the heads from my motor (viewer descretion advised)


From these in the photo to some RL heads I grabbed from the junkyard a while back they're currently in the shop being tested and prepped for the install my question is how can I clean up my Pistons while I have the heads off now. They're a bit of flaking which of course is mixed in a bit of the coolant. Thankfully no oil

 

Acetone is the key.