5 quart of oil for my TL 06? Help Asap
#41
Senior Moderator
overfilling is bad since it can cause foaming...
#42
Registered Member
I just checked my Service Manual (2004) and yes, the TL does have a windage tray, which Acura refers to as a "baffle" (same thing). This will help a great deal if an overfill condition exists, but if there is really too much oil in the crankcase. Windage trays (baffles) help to keep oil from being contacted by the crankshaft under hard acceleration, braking, and cornering. If this occurs, then frothing/foaming can result and the potential of oil being picked up and fed into the cylinders increases.
Still you would want to avoid overfill situations when possible.
Still you would want to avoid overfill situations when possible.
#43
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Piotr_W is correct. Acura states 4.5 qts for a reason. Ever hear of aeration?? To much oil in the sump will cause the crank throws to hit the oil level and churn it up. Also, in cold/cool temps, the oil can't drain back as efficiently, so you don't want to keep pouring oil into the upper reaches of the head where it can't drain back.
It's really weired to see so many incorrect posts about a topic so simple. 4.5 qts means 4.5 qts.
It's really weired to see so many incorrect posts about a topic so simple. 4.5 qts means 4.5 qts.
#44
Man of God.....
Prove it! If this is an issue, it should be able to be proved or disproved. I would think "foaming" would show on the dipstick. Right? I have never seen any.
Also I have 56k on my 06 tl. If this was so bad to overfill by 1/2 qt. I should think I would have seen some side effects! I mean right? So I guess it's time. To put up or shut up!!
Also I have 56k on my 06 tl. If this was so bad to overfill by 1/2 qt. I should think I would have seen some side effects! I mean right? So I guess it's time. To put up or shut up!!
#45
Race Director
There is a thread around here where someone did break an over-sized filter in just such a manner. I don't know exactly which filter that was.
I will see if I can find it later, but am in the middle of changing my rotors & pads back to stock (just taking a short beer break - ).
I will see if I can find it later, but am in the middle of changing my rotors & pads back to stock (just taking a short beer break - ).
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=filter
#46
Has anybody tried using Mugen products on your TL?
Mugen High Performance Oil Filter
High Performance Oil Filter [15400-XK5B-0000]
All Vehicles Except S2000 $ 32.00
Mugen MT105 Engine Treatment Oil
MT105 Engine Treatment Oil [90000-YZ0-105]
All Vehicles $ 60.00
Mugen High Performance Oil Filter
High Performance Oil Filter [15400-XK5B-0000]
All Vehicles Except S2000 $ 32.00
Mugen MT105 Engine Treatment Oil
MT105 Engine Treatment Oil [90000-YZ0-105]
All Vehicles $ 60.00
#47
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I always use 4.5 quarts and change the filter when I do my changes. Reading this thread got me wondering though, specifically about the oil level. Bearcat said his level, according to the dipstick, is right in the middle of the dipstick limits using 4.5 (if I'm not mistaken). That said, just checked mine and it's actually covering the entire end section of the dipstick (the solid section at the end of the wire shaft). Checked a few times, all the same.
I'm not concerned about this, since I've always done my oil changes on my vehicles with no issues, just a little confused. About 15 minutes prior I took a ride to the bank down the street so the engine was close to operating temps. But, even the manual says to check the level a few minutes after shutting the engine off. Any insight here as to why I'm seeing such a high level according to the dipstick?
Edit - I literally have the longest posts for the smallest questions. Sorry about that!
I'm not concerned about this, since I've always done my oil changes on my vehicles with no issues, just a little confused. About 15 minutes prior I took a ride to the bank down the street so the engine was close to operating temps. But, even the manual says to check the level a few minutes after shutting the engine off. Any insight here as to why I'm seeing such a high level according to the dipstick?
Edit - I literally have the longest posts for the smallest questions. Sorry about that!
#48
Suzuka Master
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Prove it! If this is an issue, it should be able to be proved or disproved. I would think "foaming" would show on the dipstick. Right? I have never seen any.
Also I have 56k on my 06 tl. If this was so bad to overfill by 1/2 qt. I should think I would have seen some side effects! I mean right? So I guess it's time. To put up or shut up!!
Also I have 56k on my 06 tl. If this was so bad to overfill by 1/2 qt. I should think I would have seen some side effects! I mean right? So I guess it's time. To put up or shut up!!
Couple examples:
The new Mercedes if only 1/2 qt. overfilled, 9 instead of 8.5, a message will come on stating that the system is overfilled and needs to be drained back to proper levels. On the other hand, the Covette manual will state to add 1 extra qt. to the capacity if running on the track, but that is controlled by the baffles.
So I guess it's like anything else on this forum, use 5 qts instead of 4.5, use another type of trans fluid, not Z1, any viscosity/dino/synthetic oil that suits ones needs, as it seems as no one can actually prove/disprove any of these opinions. To each their own.
#49
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For the record, I use ~4.5 qts from a 5 qt container. I trash the "extra" 1/2 qt. I too figure that 4.5 qts means 4.5 qts, but also assume that there is some acceptable amount of over/under. How the F'k are you going to use precisely 4.5 qts every time? (I also believe that the drain bolt really should be torqued to 17 ft/lbs, the filter to 7.x ft/lbs and the $0.20 washer replaced everytime.)
The real question is: If 4.5 qts is recommended, how much over or under can you go and still be OK?
I think the answer is: That is what the MIN and MAX lines are for.
#50
Safety Car
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So why is the dip stick marked with a MIN and a MAX?
For the record, I use ~4.5 qts from a 5 qt container. I trash the "extra" 1/2 qt. I too figure that 4.5 qts means 4.5 qts, but also assume that there is some acceptable amount of over/under. How the F'k are you going to use precisely 4.5 qts every time? (I also believe that the drain bolt really should be torqued to 17 ft/lbs, the filter to 7.x ft/lbs and the $0.20 washer replaced everytime.)
The real question is: If 4.5 qts is recommended, how much over or under can you go and still be OK?
I think the answer is: That is what the MIN and MAX lines are for.
For the record, I use ~4.5 qts from a 5 qt container. I trash the "extra" 1/2 qt. I too figure that 4.5 qts means 4.5 qts, but also assume that there is some acceptable amount of over/under. How the F'k are you going to use precisely 4.5 qts every time? (I also believe that the drain bolt really should be torqued to 17 ft/lbs, the filter to 7.x ft/lbs and the $0.20 washer replaced everytime.)
The real question is: If 4.5 qts is recommended, how much over or under can you go and still be OK?
I think the answer is: That is what the MIN and MAX lines are for.
#51
Registered Member
So why is the dip stick marked with a MIN and a MAX?
For the record, I use ~4.5 qts from a 5 qt container. I trash the "extra" 1/2 qt. I too figure that 4.5 qts means 4.5 qts, but also assume that there is some acceptable amount of over/under. How the F'k are you going to use precisely 4.5 qts every time? (I also believe that the drain bolt really should be torqued to 17 ft/lbs, the filter to 7.x ft/lbs and the $0.20 washer replaced everytime.)
The real question is: If 4.5 qts is recommended, how much over or under can you go and still be OK?
I think the answer is: That is what the MIN and MAX lines are for.
For the record, I use ~4.5 qts from a 5 qt container. I trash the "extra" 1/2 qt. I too figure that 4.5 qts means 4.5 qts, but also assume that there is some acceptable amount of over/under. How the F'k are you going to use precisely 4.5 qts every time? (I also believe that the drain bolt really should be torqued to 17 ft/lbs, the filter to 7.x ft/lbs and the $0.20 washer replaced everytime.)
The real question is: If 4.5 qts is recommended, how much over or under can you go and still be OK?
I think the answer is: That is what the MIN and MAX lines are for.
#52
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#53
So why is the dip stick marked with a MIN and a MAX?
For the record, I use ~4.5 qts from a 5 qt container. I trash the "extra" 1/2 qt. I too figure that 4.5 qts means 4.5 qts, but also assume that there is some acceptable amount of over/under. How the F'k are you going to use precisely 4.5 qts every time? (I also believe that the drain bolt really should be torqued to 17 ft/lbs, the filter to 7.x ft/lbs and the $0.20 washer replaced everytime.)
The real question is: If 4.5 qts is recommended, how much over or under can you go and still be OK?
I think the answer is: That is what the MIN and MAX lines are for.
For the record, I use ~4.5 qts from a 5 qt container. I trash the "extra" 1/2 qt. I too figure that 4.5 qts means 4.5 qts, but also assume that there is some acceptable amount of over/under. How the F'k are you going to use precisely 4.5 qts every time? (I also believe that the drain bolt really should be torqued to 17 ft/lbs, the filter to 7.x ft/lbs and the $0.20 washer replaced everytime.)
The real question is: If 4.5 qts is recommended, how much over or under can you go and still be OK?
I think the answer is: That is what the MIN and MAX lines are for.
It should be between
#54
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I always use 4.5 quarts and change the filter when I do my changes. Reading this thread got me wondering though, specifically about the oil level. Bearcat said his level, according to the dipstick, is right in the middle of the dipstick limits using 4.5 (if I'm not mistaken). That said, just checked mine and it's actually covering the entire end section of the dipstick (the solid section at the end of the wire shaft). Checked a few times, all the same.
I'm not concerned about this, since I've always done my oil changes on my vehicles with no issues, just a little confused. About 15 minutes prior I took a ride to the bank down the street so the engine was close to operating temps. But, even the manual says to check the level a few minutes after shutting the engine off. Any insight here as to why I'm seeing such a high level according to the dipstick?
I'm not concerned about this, since I've always done my oil changes on my vehicles with no issues, just a little confused. About 15 minutes prior I took a ride to the bank down the street so the engine was close to operating temps. But, even the manual says to check the level a few minutes after shutting the engine off. Any insight here as to why I'm seeing such a high level according to the dipstick?
Just checked it again. Engine's a little cooler than last time but still warm and the dipstick still shows oil above the upper line. Not as high as last time, but still above the line.
#55
Registered Member
If you did a complete drain (as in to the dripping stage) and replaced the filter, then poured in 4.5 quarts of oil, it makes no difference what the dipstick reads... you got 4.5 quarts of oil in your pan. The only exception would be if your oil pan was an after market part or somehow a difference OEM pan (neither are likely I would bet). If the dipstick reads too full with all of the above having been done, then just make a mental note of where it shows when you do an oil change (assuming you are taking the readings on a level surface). For the record, when I do an oil change (as in a week and a half ago with my '04), my dipstick shows the new oil to be slightly above the high line on the read area. And I am VERY careful to add the proper amount of oil when doing a change.
#56
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Yeah, I'm not concerned about it, more confused. In the end, I know there is 4.5 quarts in there. I think, like you mentioned, I'll try and remember to check it during my next change. I'll have to double check how level the area was where I was parked.
#57
Guys, i seriously think 5 quarts is FINE!
MY 02 IS like this :
Drain and refill w/ Oil filter change : 5.4 liters (5.7 US qts, 4.8 lmp. qts)
w/o Oil filter change : 5.1 liters (5.4 US qts, 4.5 lmp. qts)
Dry fill 6.5 liters (6.9 US qts, 5.7 lmp. qts)
And yet i always fill 6 quarts exactly (well excluding those few drops in the bottle) everytime with filter change of course.
I have it now for 90K already, not a single problem yet.
The thing is our car's oil system is not a dry sump system. It is designed to accept a certain variation of oil quantity. Please clam down.
If you have a dry sump system like the Audi R8 has, then you have to pay close attention to oil level and the procedures to check oil level. I talked to a friend and read the manual, man it has to be done pretty precisely.
MY 02 IS like this :
Drain and refill w/ Oil filter change : 5.4 liters (5.7 US qts, 4.8 lmp. qts)
w/o Oil filter change : 5.1 liters (5.4 US qts, 4.5 lmp. qts)
Dry fill 6.5 liters (6.9 US qts, 5.7 lmp. qts)
And yet i always fill 6 quarts exactly (well excluding those few drops in the bottle) everytime with filter change of course.
I have it now for 90K already, not a single problem yet.
The thing is our car's oil system is not a dry sump system. It is designed to accept a certain variation of oil quantity. Please clam down.
If you have a dry sump system like the Audi R8 has, then you have to pay close attention to oil level and the procedures to check oil level. I talked to a friend and read the manual, man it has to be done pretty precisely.
#58
Team Owner
I used to run 6 quarts in mine when I did lots of freeway commuting. I now run "only" 5. Been doing this for the majority of the 73,000 miles. No aeration of the oil.
#59
Team Owner
There is no filter better than the Amsoil EAO or Royal Purple synthetic media filters and those go for roughly $16.
Over $10 a quart for an oil that's likely a grp II/III. You can get Redline or Amsoil grp IV/V oils for that price.
#60
Burning Brakes
I have it now for 90K already, not a single problem yet.
The thing is our car's oil system is not a dry sump system. It is designed to accept a certain variation of oil quantity. Please clam down.
If you have a dry sump system like the Audi R8 has, then you have to pay close attention to oil level and the procedures to check oil level. I talked to a friend and read the manual, man it has to be done pretty precisely.
The thing is our car's oil system is not a dry sump system. It is designed to accept a certain variation of oil quantity. Please clam down.
If you have a dry sump system like the Audi R8 has, then you have to pay close attention to oil level and the procedures to check oil level. I talked to a friend and read the manual, man it has to be done pretty precisely.
On a dry sump system, you want the oil levels to be correct so that you're not damaging the pumps by starving them of oil.
#61
Team Owner
Keep in mind the factory usually leaves a ton of room for error. They have to take into account heavy braking, acceleration, cornering, uphill, downhill, etc. Running a quart high is not going to raise the oil as high as it goes when it's sloshing around. It may take a little of the saftey cushion away if you plan on auto-xing when it comes to windage. 5 quarts in the TL is nothing to worry about.
#62
Instructor
Do you REALLY have to replace the drain washer every time? And can I just purchase this from any automotive/home depot? besides gonig to the local acura dealership?
#63
Who gave you this answer. This is bullshit. Too much oil can damage your engine.
http://acuraoilchange.com/
http://acuraoilchange.com/Images/oil%20info.pdf
http://acuraoilchange.com/
http://acuraoilchange.com/Images/oil%20info.pdf
#64
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svang... it's a crush washer, it's about $0.25, less than that if you buy six at a time. You're not going to actually try to find one at Home Suppository, are you? You can flip the washer over, if you can remember which direction it was installed, and re- use it once. But that would start another 60 or so posts about what other owners think of re-using a crush washer.
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