Last night my wife was driving our 2006 Acura TL with 135K miles and the car died while on the interstate doing 70. The has received all maintenance that is required and she babies the car, all shifts below 3,500 rpm.....takes the kids around town and that is all.

After picking the car up, it is throwing codes P0154, P0134, P0340, 83-1, 65-1, 61-1.

After the car died, it won't start. Turns over but doesn't start. Restarted the computer several times but the check engine light still comes on.

65-1 brake fluid low has always been an issue, so this isn't what cause the problem

61-1, my wife sat with the car accessories running for 2 hours until I could pick her up.

83-1, ecm/pcm malfunction, have no clue

p0154 and p0134 for the O2 sensors, this wouldn't cause the car to die

P0340, not sure if the car would shut down because of the crankshaft sensor going bad.

Any thoughts or where I should start? Charged the battery and it is fine. Might even buy a new one tomorrow because I need to give my Dad back the Optima I have been borrowing.

jon

 

I just double checked all fuses, and none are blown. Still scratching my head.....

 

seems to like the on-board computer has gone bad. I suggest you take it out, open it and check for possible moisture oxidation or possibly a bad cap or short. My guess is you will need a new ECU soon enough.

 

Check ecu for rust or cracks. It should be sealed. If you see rust, chances are the metal has been contaminated and inside started to rust also. You can find replacement ECUs on ebay for 100-150$

 

I will check the ecu later for water. two follow questions.

can i use an automatic ecu for a manual transmission car?

also, is it plug and play to set up? or do i need to get something done so the car recognizes the new ecu?

 

You have to use the same year and trans. im not sure about the immoblizer .

Are you getting a green blinking light on the dash? Fuel pump issue?

 

I would start with the Crank sensor. If the ECU can not read the crank sensor position it will not have ignition or fuel delivery. If that checks out then check wiring from the ecu to the sensor before shotgunning a ecu. Also a faulty starter or low battery voltage can throw that P0340 as well.

 

Are you sure about the definition of P0340? I think it's "Camshaft Position Sensor No Signal" not Crankshaft. The SM troubleshooting for the code starts off by clearing the DTC and then starting the engine and seeing if it reappears. So I don't think a P0340 alone will cause a no-run situation.

 

its plug and play and you can use an ecu for automatic transmission only but you can use one from 05 or 06.

 

The green key? If so, I have a green key once I stick it in the ignition and it goes away. I can hear the fuel pump come on and can smell a slight hint of unburnt fuel coming from the air filter so I believe it is getting fuel.

Not sure if I can remove a coil pack and connect a spark plug to see if I am getting spark, but my guess is I'm not.

 

I have a manual, so I am guessing an 05 or 06 manual ecu will work. Thanks for the reply.

 

You are correct, it is camshaft position sensor, but I believe this is the one located on the crankshaft down behind the crank pulley? I remember seeing it when I did the timing belt. If there is another one, please let me know and I will check that as pulling that bottom pulley off is a PITA.

 

when I have the battery positive terminal disconnected, and bridge it with a volt meter I have a constant 12.71 volt draw. Just to be safe, I'm disconnecting the HFL to ensure that didn't go bad again and check my draw once again. I charged my optima battery all night and it has a solid charge, so I will switch my boat battery back out after the HFL is gone and see if the car will start. Also will inspect to see if the PCM has any water spots on the top of it, as it appears some car's PCM get wet from some sort of internal drip tray? worth a look to make sure it looks fine. Might even open it up to ensure no visual shorts.

 

removed HFL, still have a solid 12 volt draw. Throwing codes p0340, 61-1, 65-1, and 83-1 after restarting the codes. Battery is full charge, at rest 12.6 volts.

Pulled the PCM and it had no obvious water marks, and when I opened it up didn't see any obvious shorts on the board.

No issue with the green key with the anti theift. It comes one when I insert the key, and goes away as it should.

Any more suggestions?

 

Pull fuses one by one and see when the draw stops. I'd start with the underhood box, but remember, some of the underhood fuses control circuits in the underdash box.

 

You're testing this fundamentally incorrectly. There's no such thing as drawing "volts".

You can measure a battery voltage when it's not connected to anything at all. If you're measuring current, it should be measured in amps. How exactly are you making these electrical measurements?

But to take a step back and start from the top, this REALLY sounds like a bad cam sensor or wiring to said sensor. The ignition timing depends on this sensor's input and if the PCM does not receive the expected position relative to the crank and other cam (within some tolerance, I'm sure), I don't think it would fire at all to mitigate the risk of significant engine damage, hence your no start.

 

Also, if you are measuring amps instead of volts, I'd bet that it's on the cam sensor circuit so check that fuse first. (sorry, I don't know which one that is)