Hello everyone. So a few weeks past, I was putting on new battery terminals and shorted it out. There was a spark, lol,. After this incident, here we go. I have 1 mode on washer, no brights, locks work only from passenger side, no turn signal, no fogs. I have read multiple threads here and am getting no where. I have checked all relays, twice, all fuses as well. I have 13.1 at fuse box but I noticed today. Fuse no.1,2,3,4,6 and seven, have been showing bad, but, I have now put in these fuses twice, because the fuses are good, .why am I showing these fuses as bad when they are good. And also have the same problem on like 8 fuses under the dash. Please help. Have checked all grounds, when I shorted out battery, did the neg or pos cable become only good in certain areas. Also no key fob action

 

The forum where you originally posted, the AcuraZine User Help, Support & Suggestions Area , is meant for problems, comments, and suggestions for the website itself, so I moved your thread to the car specific forum applicable to your vehicle.

This was explained in the sticky thread at the top of that forum, or click here if you can't find it, which will explain why you shouldn't have posted your thread there.

 

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Ok thankyou very much

 

Please clarify on the fuses are bad, but yet they aren't? What is telling you they are bad?

Did you short out the battery itself? Or did you swap the cables backwards?

 

Does your car start and run?

 

Thankyou for getting back to me. I think I figured out that the lights , etc, have to be on to get the test light to read accurately, am I right? When I was putting on the post terminal, my wrench hit the tie down bracket, that created a spark. Last night, I disassembled the engine compartment fuse box, I since have it put back together. And still no keyless, no brights, no turn signals, locks work only at passenger door. And no fogs, one speed on wipers

 

Thankyou so much for getting back to me. Yes, the car operates except for mentioned issues. Again no brights, no keyless, no turn signals, locks work only at the passenger door

 

You mentioned above that you disassembled and reassembled the engine compartment fuse box - have you swapped out / replaced any of the fuses or are you reusing the original ones? Could be that you did in fact blow some of the fuses and they need to be replaced.
Based on the list of items not working, it seems like a combination of fuses in the engine compartment and passenger compartment. I would try and divide and conquer by trying to replace fuses one at a time.

 

Yes, I have replaced fuses, I have double checked relays all fuses and relays are good

 

Well, I don't know what to do here. I have installed all new fuses again. And there are fuses that my test light says are bad, but my multimeter and my eye, says different. Why is this happening? I'm talking about 20 different fuses. Does that circuit, assessory need to be on, in order for the test light to work. I need help, please. Someone has to know . No brights, no turn signals,one speed on wipers, no intermittent, no fogs, no keyless, no trunk from keyless. I did notice tonight when I closed driver's door only, the left rear door actuator is making a noise like I'm trying to lock noise. Only when I close the door. The passenger door is the only door locking this car. The key does not. Also the trip computer with the keyless settings will not allow me to make any changes whatsoever, to the keyless system. I cleaned all grounds under driver's seat as well. I don't mean to pressure anyone but if I don't get this car figured out, I will grab my sledge hammer and wish I'd done it earlier. I do appreciate all the help so far. It's a big sledge hammer. I will have a neibourlly prechristmas and after" take you're pain out on this piece of $&-#.

 

One other thought - is it possible or maybe I should say that you damaged the battery?? I know you said the car starts and runs but perhaps there is now a bad or damaged cell within the battery. I haven't seen as much with the 3G TL, but a bad or dying battery has been known to manifest itself in all sorts or weird electrical oddities across the Acura line. Again - just another thought. Do you have of have you had an OBD-II hooked up to see if there are any DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes)?
Sorry I can't answer your question about the circuit needing to be on for your tester light to work.

 

Shorting batteries is not good for the battery.. I would replace the battery and report back.

 

1.) Ignore the test light if you have an actual multi-meter
2.) Confirm you have 12V making it to each of the fuses in question
3.) Confirm you have 12V leaving each of the fuses in question
4.) Have you traced all power and ground wires from the battery to termination point to confirm not corroded or melted?

Based on the other thread you posted in, have you confirmed no moisture around the interior fuse box or around the PCM in the center console area under the dash? I can't remember if this car has a BCM or not???

 

The second after I shorted battery by mistakingly touching wrench while putting on new battery terminals, to the hold down bracket. There was a spark, and immediately noticed all listed components not working.

 

Jeffrey, it's all about paying attention to WTF you're doing.
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I don't quite understand the last two messages, so whomever you are, look in the mirror. Anyways I want to thank all corespondents, I appreciate you. I had a bad pcm. Cars all good now

 

 

Good on you for getting it sorted.
Don't mind DMZ, he pays Paul in New Friggin Jerzy to do the majority of his TL work.
Midnight Mystery just thinks your car is deceased.

 

His PCM went into the deep fryer. Hope he ate it for breakfast after installing the new one.

 

????

Why?

????

 

Hello everyone again.I was reading a post that describe's exacto problems my vehicle has. I have checked all relays, fuses, new micu, . I again have no bright's, no fogs, no turn signals, onespeed on wiper's. driver's door lock , and a new acutator, is inop. I can barely hear the chimming sound, but it is very quiet. I have cleaned all, all grounds. I even bought a combination switch, and no help here, however, I did notice when turning bright's on, at designatged under the hood fuse location, I have zero power to fuse, both left and right. I appreciate any help,Please help me. jeffery

 

Hello everyone again, I'm almost there, need a little help. Ok. All relays checked, all fuses, ignition switch is good. When turning key to start the green d, transmission indicator position, stays on for roughly 6 seconds, the p is also on at the same time. I have power at fuel pump it is priming, but a no start. Can someone please help me

 

@Jeffery Zweigle I merged all of your existing threads together because there is a ton of context missing in your newest post.

 

I hope you are not trying to start the car in D as it won't. If you have the car in P and it's showing D is engaged, then you need to change the transmission range switch. The car could only start in P or N.

to test, put the car on, don't start, and see if when you change the gears, the dash reads the proper gear.

 

 

No, no, I would never try to start it in the d mode, lol. And I do very much appreciate you're feedback, thankyou. So when I turn the key to assesory #2, the d stays lit along with the p. After a few seconds, the d goes away, and the p stay on, at that point, that's when I'm trying to start it.I did move shifter into all gears, and they are accurate. I know my fuel pump is good because I shot a very small amount, very small amount of starter fluid into the intake chamber, the engine fired a few times, then went back to cranking only. Are you saying to adjust the gear switch to where the p should only be on, when the gear is in park and then my troubles go away?i appreciate you're help in a big way

 

Also, my keyless remotes are not working with new batteries. The security light at driver's door is not lit. I still have no brights, no turn signals, driver's door lock inop, but passenger door does lock all doors. Driver's door does roll all windows up and down. Memory for seat, inop

 

That does not prove your fuel pump is running. The car should start if you give it an alternative source of fuel i.e. starting fluid.

Does the green security light on the dash stay on all the time? If yes, then you'll need to have your keys programmed. The immobilizer system disables the fuel pump.

 

Yes the green light stays on

 

Ok. Thankyou so much. Any ideas to why my brights, turn signals are still inop after replacing combo switc

 

Get the car running first. Sometimes fixing one issue actually fixes multiple things.

Do full system scan for all modules. It sounds like other modules were affected when the PCM got fried. Did the car actually work flawlessly when you replaced the PCM?

Honestly, you should probably take it to a mechanic at this point.

 

I have a buddy who owns a locksmith company. He's, today, gonna try and program keys. The green d only stays on for about 6 seconds

 

@Jeffery Zweigle So what happened?