chrisyoon

So the car will crank, but won't start. The relay's make noises, and sounds like the fuel pump is priming, but no start.

I finally paid closer attention to the dash, after leaving it on the ON position, and after about 10 secs, the CEL will blink 5 times, then turn off completely.

What do the 5 blinks signify? a bad relay? which one?

Thanks!

Chris

RonJonTL757

I have no idea if this is compatible with our cars but this is from older civics and integras

SHORT flashes are single digits (1/2 second)
LONG flashes are 10's (1 second)

-----CEL # List-----
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor circuit
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
67 Cat Converter
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 EGR Valve/Line
86 ECT sensor - Cooling System
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor
92 EVAP Solenoid/Valve/Vacuum Lines

chrisyoon

Hmm, but according to that, I think I should have a number 50, but there isn't one. Also, if it were a number 5... would a bad sensor not allow a car to start?

Also, mods please move this to the problem/fix area if this doesn't belong here. Thanks!

RonJonTL757

SHORT flashes are single digits (1/2 second)
LONG flashes are 10's (1 second)

most likely they are short flashes

Meek32v6

iTrader: (7)

This just recently happened to me like a week ago and now consistently. I haven't seen any flashing but when I go to start - it clicks once. Not multiple times like a dead battery.
I figure it might be spark plugs - others say the starter - I'll see if the problem still persist after my maintenance.
Happens whenever the car sits for an extended period of time. After 4 or 5 attempts it finally turns over but i really think its the spark plugs. I feel a lack in performance and pickup when applying the gas - no CEL or anything just to clarify

DanL

iTrader: (2)

The ECM will run initial diagnostics and flash the MIL (CEL) five times if something doesn''t pass. You'll need an ODB-II code reader to get the actual error code(s) in order to decypher what's wrong. I know some cars, like my old Maxima, would actually use a combination of long and short flashes to indicate the problem, but the TL's ECU doesn't do that.

chrisyoon

So here's the weird thing... I haven't had time to check it out thoroughly as it's my g/f's car and we didn't need the Acura so it's been sitting. I was able to start the car with the remote start, turn the key to the on position, and then drive off. The remote start kicks off and the car drives as though you started it with the key. No problems noted during driving.

However, you try again to start with the key, nothing. nada. zilch, just cranks and cranks...

I checked all fuses, they're good. I'm going to try relays, but any suggestions on where to start?

I got an OBDII code reader, and it shows nothing. Says no codes at all... any advice!?!?

Will Y.

Is that the same key you use for the remote start and to try manually starting the car?
1) If not, one key's chip is bad - either the key needs reprogramming or the ignition chip reader is going bad.

2) If it's the same key, I would look for a wiring/short issue centering on the remote start components. Is the remote starter a recent addition to the car?

chrisyoon

I was thinking that it might be the chip in the key, but wouldn't the car die once the remote start is switched off by hitting the brake? Remote start is nearly a year old, no problems really with it ever.

She said that the installer didn't request a key when doing the install, so I'm guessing they hooked up a bypass to start the car. so wouldn't the bypass be disabled once the car is placed into drive due to having to depress the brake pedal?

To clarify, what I mean is that remote starts are disabled as a safety issue when the brakes are applied. Is it possible that once the car is started, the ECM shuts off the immobilizer completely so that the car stays on even those the remote start isn't keeping the ignition on anymore?

Also, NO green key flashes when starting with just the key. Maybe the bulb is just burnt out?

I'm stumped! and dealer wants $150 to reprogram keys with no guarantee that it'll work. Still hunting down spare key, but got lost in the move.