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Hey guys so I bought a 2004 Acura TL from work for 300 bucks. Customer said it just stopped running and had it towed to the mechanic. I picked it up under the guise it doesn’t run. I got it home and found that the tensioner had failed and the timing belt teeth were gone on the crank preventing it from turning(clearly)…
inchecked heads and replaced tensioner and belt after zeroing it all out. Once I got it back together(before accessory’s are installed) I have ran into an issue where the car has zero spark across all cylinders. No codes are shown even in a deep scan. So I don’t have a real reference point.
I know for sure spark is no bueno for sure. But aside from that are there common cranking issues associated such a cam or crank sensors or ECU failures?
So this far along I have checked valves and completed a timing belt change with new tensioner. Made sure it was in time about a million times. Went to start and had no spark. Replaced crank position sensor and still no start only a healthy sounding crank.
check the fuses, make sure that they are all good. Check battery connections to alternator and fusebox as well.
maybe this is a dumbass question but I did not install any of the accessories because in the event something else was messed up and have been trying to make sure it would even start. Does this actually cause an issue? I’ve ran through all the fuses in the engine bay and also have double checked the wiring a few times but I can’t recall anything being unplugged or chaffed.
Last edited by Dustyleek; Feb 20, 2022 at 10:15 PM.
Best to remove that and replace the factory relay and double check everything is proper and no other fuses/relays have been messed with.
that’s what I just did. No change however it looks like a starter cut 2 relay. I’m going to get another relay in the morning and replace the ignition relay just for sake of sanity since I didn’t have spark before and swapper relay with it the ign fuse. And got
sparl but no fuel… I’m going to test it tomorrow after I put a new starter in…
Best to remove that and replace the factory relay and double check everything is proper and no other fuses/relays have been messed with.
I did that today along with a new starter. Would appear it wants to fire off on starter fluid but not it’s own fuel which is still not pulsing. I’d also like to note that I disconnect the cam gear sensor and it continues to try to fire on starter fluid.
I did that today along with a new starter. Would appear it wants to fire off on starter fluid but not it’s own fuel which is still not pulsing. I’d also like to note that I disconnect the cam gear sensor and it continues to try to fire on starter fluid.
is this car different then my old V8’s and uses the cam gear sensor for the injector pulse by chance?
OP are you sure that your crankshaft is not off by a full turn? When the timing belt breaks, the motor keeps spinning for a second. So even if all of your timing marks are correct, your timing could be off 180°. I had this issue when my EBay Chinesium timing belt snapped last month👺. And that's exactly how my engine sounded when I cranked it.
There should be an easy way to verify that piston #1 is at TDC, maybe stick a small camera into your spark plug well? Or just do what I did and rotate your crank a full turn and then install TB and tensioner again. But I reccomend u test start the engine before reassembling everything. Just hook up the ground wire to the body with an alligator clip, crank, and shut down fast.
OP are you sure that your crankshaft is not off by a full turn? When the timing belt breaks, the motor keeps spinning for a second. So even if all of your timing marks are correct, your timing could be off 180°. I had this issue when my EBay Chinesium timing belt snapped last month👺. And that's exactly how my engine sounded when I cranked it.
There should be an easy way to verify that piston #1 is at TDC, maybe stick a small camera into your spark plug well? Or just do what I did and rotate your crank a full turn and then install TB and tensioner again. But I reccomend u test start the engine before reassembling everything. Just hook up the ground wire to the body with an alligator clip, crank, and shut down fast.
Good luck
alrighty so I actually verified tdc on 1 while going through the rebuild process. I have made sure all markings were correct. What I have ran into us Injector pulse being nonexistent. I believe that I have found maybe that the camshaft position sensor my be bad. I have tried starting on starting fluid which it turns over and attempts to run. I have also disconnect the cam position sensor and repeated the process and had the same results.
is it possible the camshaft position sensor is causing the lack of injector pulse?
alrighty so I actually verified tdc on 1 while going through the rebuild process. I have made sure all markings were correct. What I have ran into us Injector pulse being nonexistent. I believe that I have found maybe that the camshaft position sensor my be bad. I have tried starting on starting fluid which it turns over and attempts to run. I have also disconnect the cam position sensor and repeated the process and had the same results.
is it possible the camshaft position sensor is causing the lack of injector pulse?
What was the position of the cams with Cylinder 1 on TDC? If u replaced Cam and crank sensors, there isn't too much more that could cause this problem. My general feeling is u didn't mess w the starting, ignition, and fuel systems, so I wouldn't look there for causes.
Also did you double check the ground wire which connects from the engine mount to the body? I don't think u can start without it.
WAIT there is one more thing: if you're not getting fuel, there is a procedure to disable the fuel pump during a compression test. Something like accel pedal to the floor, key on, key off, release accel? You may have accidentally triggered that mode? Its an outside shot but try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. You'll need radio/nav codes of course .
Finally, double check the wiring harness for the crank sensor - Eric the Car guy had some damage there when his TB broke and it took him awhile to track down.
Last edited by stokesey; Feb 24, 2022 at 11:46 PM.
What was the position of the cams with Cylinder 1 on TDC? If u replaced Cam and crank sensors, there isn't too much more that could cause this problem. My general feeling is u didn't mess w the starting, ignition, and fuel systems, so I wouldn't look there for causes.
Also did you double check the ground wire which connects from the engine mount to the body? I don't think u can start without it.
WAIT there is one more thing: if you're not getting fuel, there is a procedure to disable the fuel pump during a compression test. Something like accel pedal to the floor, key on, key off, release accel? You may have accidentally triggered that mode? Its an outside shot but try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. You'll need radio/nav codes of course .
Finally, double check the wiring harness for the crank sensor - Eric the Car guy had some damage there when his TB broke and it took him awhile to track down.
So I’ve noticed that my camshaft sensor is not doing anything. If I pull the connection it will still try to start with starter fluid. If i leave it in it does the same thing. That to me would signal a dead sensor. If the crank controls spark would the cam not control the fuel possibly? I have a replacement already but the brand new starter already shit the bed so I have to go get another one tomorrow. Apparently the reman ones are having issues.
So after a long winded fight I have an issue where I’m not getting injector pulse. All fuses check good and all relays are new. I have replaced both crank and cam sensors. Orginal story is the timing belt teeth separated from a failed tensioner. After replacing all required parts I have no fuel pulse. I have also noted that there is no readout on the tach when I turn the car over at all. Any ideas?
That means the PCM does not see a CKP signal. You'll need to check power and ground to the sensor. CKP and CMP share the same power source as the injectors.
That means the PCM does not see a CKP signal. You'll need to check power and ground to the sensor. CKP and CMP share the same power source as the injectors.
So now I’m getting spark and fuel it seems like there is an issue with air but I’m not sure. I’m getting in hector pulse judging by pulsing power to the injectors
OP are you sure that your crankshaft is not off by a full turn? When the timing belt breaks, the motor keeps spinning for a second. So even if all of your timing marks are correct, your timing could be off 180°. I had this issue when my EBay Chinesium timing belt snapped last month👺. And that's exactly how my engine sounded when I cranked it.
There should be an easy way to verify that piston #1 is at TDC, maybe stick a small camera into your spark plug well? Or just do what I did and rotate your crank a full turn and then install TB and tensioner again. But I reccomend u test start the engine before reassembling everything. Just hook up the ground wire to the body with an alligator clip, crank, and shut down fast.
Good luck
woah wait so the entire crank spun 180 degrees and the key way on the crank was off from actual TDC????
He probably meant 360 instead of 180, since having any component 180* out of time would be pretty easy to spot.
Short block/pistons are in the exact same position every 360*. It doesn't matter for the piston if it's on compression or exhaust stroke, since that is determined by the head, not the block. The fact that crank does two revolutions for each cam rotation doesn't matter when timing belt breaks or when you pull heads off. As long as you set everything in time engine should be fine, assuming there's no bent valves.
Did you ever do the compression test? If it has good compression, it still might have bent valves, but it should run (although poorly). Although it doesn't sound like it has 0 compression so it should start.
It's not flooded due to excessive cranking, right?
