2004 TL no spark post timing belt shred.
He probably meant 360 instead of 180, since having any component 180* out of time would be pretty easy to spot.
Short block/pistons are in the exact same position every 360*. It doesn't matter for the piston if it's on compression or exhaust stroke, since that is determined by the head, not the block. The fact that crank does two revolutions for each cam rotation doesn't matter when timing belt breaks or when you pull heads off. As long as you set everything in time engine should be fine, assuming there's no bent valves.
Did you ever do the compression test? If it has good compression, it still might have bent valves, but it should run (although poorly). Although it doesn't sound like it has 0 compression so it should start.
It's not flooded due to excessive cranking, right?
There's a service manual on the forum if you need circuit diagrams:
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g.../#post15344256
Short block/pistons are in the exact same position every 360*. It doesn't matter for the piston if it's on compression or exhaust stroke, since that is determined by the head, not the block. The fact that crank does two revolutions for each cam rotation doesn't matter when timing belt breaks or when you pull heads off. As long as you set everything in time engine should be fine, assuming there's no bent valves.
Did you ever do the compression test? If it has good compression, it still might have bent valves, but it should run (although poorly). Although it doesn't sound like it has 0 compression so it should start.
It's not flooded due to excessive cranking, right?
There's a service manual on the forum if you need circuit diagrams:
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g.../#post15344256
However the heads are toasty due tot he first break. looks like ill be swapping heads or at least valves
Crank sensor doesn't read from crank pulley, but from that toothed gear that is together with crank gear. However it's risky running the engine without the pulley since pulley and crank bolt are only things preventing gear and key from pulling off the crank. Maybe gear wasn't completely in, preventing sensor from reading correctly.
Crank sensor doesn't read from crank pulley, but from that toothed gear that is together with crank gear. However it's risky running the engine without the pulley since pulley and crank bolt are only things preventing gear and key from pulling off the crank. Maybe gear wasn't completely in, preventing sensor from reading correctly.
So for reference it now starts. Without the crank pulley it actually allows the teeth and gear to move just outside the limits needed to be considered good and won’t send a signal. The heat walks preventing start. After getting the car to start there is really smooth idle and start up. Nothing crazy. However I now have surging idle and the motor sounds like the heads are beating the shit out of themselves. It’s odd that the car runs so smoothly but clacks like it’s valves are all stuck down literally. I think it may need heads… junk yard I assume cold fix this. I don’t think j35a4 heads will work on it.
So for reference it now starts. Without the crank pulley it actually allows the teeth and gear to move just outside the limits needed to be considered good and won’t send a signal. The heat walks preventing start. After getting the car to start there is really smooth idle and start up. Nothing crazy. However I now have surging idle and the motor sounds like the heads are beating the shit out of themselves. It’s odd that the car runs so smoothly but clacks like it’s valves are all stuck down literally. I think it may need heads… junk yard I assume cold fix this. I don’t think j35a4 heads will work on it.
Sounds like you're just going throw parts at it without diagnosing it.
based on the sound I have came to this conclusion. But if you have any other ideas feel free to throw them out. It has a upper valve train loud clack which sounds as if is coming from under the intake.
thank you for your input.
thank you for your input.
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