'08 Base 5AT - P-L shifting noise
'08 Base 5AT - P-L shifting noise
I'm very new to my TL so every sound it makes has me pondering. When shifting from N-D, the sound of the transmission engaging seems quite pronounced, 2 "metallic click" sounds then a fairly noticeable lunge. Can anyone with the same setup confirm the noise the car makes or if this is out of the ordinary? This is while my window is open btw. when the cabin is sealed I hear nothing.
very normal, we have quirky transmissions...they shift hard, make noises, but unless its slipping you have nothing to worry about. And since your new, you should know to change your transmission fluid pretty often. Our trannys are very touchy at times.
I'm very new to my TL so every sound it makes has me pondering. When shifting from N-D, the sound of the transmission engaging seems quite pronounced, 2 "metallic click" sounds then a fairly noticeable lunge. Can anyone with the same setup confirm the noise the car makes or if this is out of the ordinary? This is while my window is open btw. when the cabin is sealed I hear nothing.
When you shift from Park or Neutral into gear, the trans hits 3rd gear first and then 1st gear. That's the double sound that you're hearing. It shouldn't make a noise. You can check the motor mounts, that could make noise and cause a lunge. What rpm does the engine idle at?
When you shift from Park or Neutral into gear, the trans hits 3rd gear first and then 1st gear. That's the double sound that you're hearing. It shouldn't make a noise. You can check the motor mounts, that could make noise and cause a lunge. What rpm does the engine idle at?
It lessens the head jerking when it engages. It hits 3rd, takes any slack out of the drivetrain and brings engine rpms down slightly, stops the input shaft from freewheeling, and once everything is engaged it goes down to 1st gear. 3rd has less torque on the wheels so you won't feel it jerk as bad. This usually happens very quick to where you don't notice it but as the 3rd gear pressure switch goes bad over time there's a longer and longer pause from 3rd to 1st.
It lessens the head jerking when it engages. It hits 3rd, takes any slack out of the drivetrain and brings engine rpms down slightly, stops the input shaft from freewheeling, and once everything is engaged it goes down to 1st gear. 3rd has less torque on the wheels so you won't feel it jerk as bad. This usually happens very quick to where you don't notice it but as the 3rd gear pressure switch goes bad over time there's a longer and longer pause from 3rd to 1st.
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check the mounts as IHC stated also use the handbrake when ever you have to shift to P....
Say you are in "D"
Push to "N"
Engage ebrake
Foot off the pedal brake
Push to "P"
this way the weight of the car is on the brake and not on the tranny (not that it will cause a problem but will eliminate the shifting noises and jerks)
Say you are in "D"
Push to "N"
Engage ebrake
Foot off the pedal brake
Push to "P"
this way the weight of the car is on the brake and not on the tranny (not that it will cause a problem but will eliminate the shifting noises and jerks)
Awesome advice! Mine is about the same, 1 or less second to engage. RPMs are about 1k in park, 1.1k in reverse, 1k in neutral and 1.1k in drive, it settles just below 1k after sitting for a second. It's been a pain in the ass asking the dealer for service records and I have yet to get a reply. Tranny fluit was a hair low, smells fine, consistant but slightly browned, is this normal? I've picked up 3gal Honda Z1 synthetic tranny fluid and plan to swap new drive juice in just to be safe, Following RoadRage's excellent guide.
I would not use Z1. At a minimum, use the new DW-1 and even better use a DexIII equivalent like Redline D4 or Amsoil ATF or Mobil ATF. Z1 is not synthetic, very, very far from synthetic. Ironically, it's one of the worst fluids you can put in this transmission.
When it's fully warm, it's well below 1,000rpm, right? Mine idles around 650-750rpm.
If the switches are bad, you will have premature wear of the 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear clutches along with possible wear on the torque converter clutch. These switches need to be replaced at least every 3 years.
When it's fully warm, it's well below 1,000rpm, right? Mine idles around 650-750rpm.
If the switches are bad, you will have premature wear of the 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear clutches along with possible wear on the torque converter clutch. These switches need to be replaced at least every 3 years.
My bad sorry, I'd picked up DW-1, not Z1. And when warm mine also drops to roughly 650-750. With it having almost 50k miles it wouldn't hurt to do my switches when I drain/fill my tranny. The car was purchased from first owner 4yrs 2 months ago so it's safe to say preventative maintenance is due. This being my first really nice new car, I'm both horrified and curious about every sound I hear, lol. Thankfully this community is quite helpful with everything. Thanks guys.
My bad sorry, I'd picked up DW-1, not Z1. And when warm mine also drops to roughly 650-750. With it having almost 50k miles it wouldn't hurt to do my switches when I drain/fill my tranny. The car was purchased from first owner 4yrs 2 months ago so it's safe to say preventative maintenance is due. This being my first really nice new car, I'm both horrified and curious about every sound I hear, lol. Thankfully this community is quite helpful with everything. Thanks guys. 

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Mike Bertram
2G TL (1999-2003)
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Sep 10, 2015 09:27 AM


