WTF check engine light!!!
08-31-2009, 03:35 PM
#1
WTF check engine light!!!
OK so Saturday i put on the XLR8 Res Catback & RV6 Res test pipe. i disconnected the battery to reset the ECU.
Today, Monday. i go to lunch with a coworker and on the way we are on this backroad where its nice and straight with no cops. i floor it and the check engine light starts flashing... so im like wtf.... then it goes away. on the way back im on the same road and i floor it again. (i dont normally drive like this i just wanted to feel the gains of the recent mods). so when i floor it again on the way back, this time the check engine light is solid and i get an error message thing on my nav screen. says that the engine is having a problem and that the RPMs may not read accurately......
im going to disconnect the battery to see if it clears the check engine light. should i be worried about anything?
i was thinking maybe its the Fuel / Air ratio was off so thats what triggered it.
anyone else have this happen to them?
Today, Monday. i go to lunch with a coworker and on the way we are on this backroad where its nice and straight with no cops. i floor it and the check engine light starts flashing... so im like wtf.... then it goes away. on the way back im on the same road and i floor it again. (i dont normally drive like this i just wanted to feel the gains of the recent mods). so when i floor it again on the way back, this time the check engine light is solid and i get an error message thing on my nav screen. says that the engine is having a problem and that the RPMs may not read accurately......
im going to disconnect the battery to see if it clears the check engine light. should i be worried about anything?
i was thinking maybe its the Fuel / Air ratio was off so thats what triggered it.
anyone else have this happen to them?
08-31-2009, 05:37 PM
#4
Safety Car
you installed excelerates catback only? what other "mods" are you talking about in your prior post? maybe you messed with o2 sensors? i've never heard of error messages coming off the navi screen? but then again, my car's older than yours...
bad gas? hm..................
bad gas? hm..................
08-31-2009, 05:59 PM
#5
other mod i did recently was the test pipe (3rd cat delete).
gas i got 92 from wawa... doubt it was bad gas. i think it was a bad Air / Fuel ratio..... cause theres more air flow with the catback.
but then again i dont know enough to determine that. it did clear tho when i disconnected the battery.
gas i got 92 from wawa... doubt it was bad gas. i think it was a bad Air / Fuel ratio..... cause theres more air flow with the catback.
but then again i dont know enough to determine that. it did clear tho when i disconnected the battery.
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08-31-2009, 10:10 PM
#9
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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he doesn't have precat deletes
listen the code is still in ur nav... hit mapguide menu and cancel and go into the xmhip or someshit like that, it will have everything the car ever has thrown
ps. 06+ I believe has the obd stuff in the nav... it records every single thing... ie. tpms sensor error messages, air bag codes, abs codes, cel codes... hell it even records the very first time you turn the vsa off
listen the code is still in ur nav... hit mapguide menu and cancel and go into the xmhip or someshit like that, it will have everything the car ever has thrown
ps. 06+ I believe has the obd stuff in the nav... it records every single thing... ie. tpms sensor error messages, air bag codes, abs codes, cel codes... hell it even records the very first time you turn the vsa off
08-31-2009, 10:36 PM
#10
Three Wheelin'
first off, catback isnt gonna give you a CEL....doesnt matter what flow you increased,
2nd, you mention disconnecting the battery to reset ECU, and thats fine and dandy, but usually when you disconnect the battery, you should let the car IDLE for 10 mins, mainly for the map sensor to reset and recalibrate itself, and not start driving right away...
3rd, our 3G TL, is extremely sensitive electrical power. in other words, even the slightest loss of ground, can set all kinds of codes...mainly because different sensors and components are affected by different resistance...your CEL flashing when you got on it, is usually a misfire... now im almost positive, this is all due to your battery, since you didn't mention any previous problems, when you disconnected the battery, your terminals may not be making the best contact.
I recently did smth on a friends TL (nothing major), and a few times i tried starting his car, it would sutter..batt didnt seem to have enough juice to even push the starter, nevermind crank...but after a few ignition tries, it would start..and i told him, it was the battery. few days latter he tells me he got a CEL code, translated into "motor was running lean"...thought about it for a min, and told him...it was due to the battery...eventually he ended up changing it...never got a code back.
this is not to say ur problems are due to a bad terminal connection...but something to look into..that can affect sensors throughout the motor, which will throw a code.
Try cleaning the terminals, grease them, tighten them properly, and also, the main ground cable from the batt that's bonded onto the chassis...check that out too...oxidation can affect these things.
i remember once, i couldn't start my car...battery terminals seemed fine and tight...jump starting didn't work, pushing the car didn't work, towing it didn't work...it wouldn't start...i go move the negative terminal...just a light TWIST...the car crancked and started...just an example of how sensitive it is to electrical power.
goodluck...let me know what you find
2nd, you mention disconnecting the battery to reset ECU, and thats fine and dandy, but usually when you disconnect the battery, you should let the car IDLE for 10 mins, mainly for the map sensor to reset and recalibrate itself, and not start driving right away...
3rd, our 3G TL, is extremely sensitive electrical power. in other words, even the slightest loss of ground, can set all kinds of codes...mainly because different sensors and components are affected by different resistance...your CEL flashing when you got on it, is usually a misfire... now im almost positive, this is all due to your battery, since you didn't mention any previous problems, when you disconnected the battery, your terminals may not be making the best contact.
I recently did smth on a friends TL (nothing major), and a few times i tried starting his car, it would sutter..batt didnt seem to have enough juice to even push the starter, nevermind crank...but after a few ignition tries, it would start..and i told him, it was the battery. few days latter he tells me he got a CEL code, translated into "motor was running lean"...thought about it for a min, and told him...it was due to the battery...eventually he ended up changing it...never got a code back.
this is not to say ur problems are due to a bad terminal connection...but something to look into..that can affect sensors throughout the motor, which will throw a code.
Try cleaning the terminals, grease them, tighten them properly, and also, the main ground cable from the batt that's bonded onto the chassis...check that out too...oxidation can affect these things.
i remember once, i couldn't start my car...battery terminals seemed fine and tight...jump starting didn't work, pushing the car didn't work, towing it didn't work...it wouldn't start...i go move the negative terminal...just a light TWIST...the car crancked and started...just an example of how sensitive it is to electrical power.
goodluck...let me know what you find
09-01-2009, 07:30 AM
#11
he doesn't have precat deletes
listen the code is still in ur nav... hit mapguide menu and cancel and go into the xmhip or someshit like that, it will have everything the car ever has thrown
ps. 06+ I believe has the obd stuff in the nav... it records every single thing... ie. tpms sensor error messages, air bag codes, abs codes, cel codes... hell it even records the very first time you turn the vsa off
listen the code is still in ur nav... hit mapguide menu and cancel and go into the xmhip or someshit like that, it will have everything the car ever has thrown
ps. 06+ I believe has the obd stuff in the nav... it records every single thing... ie. tpms sensor error messages, air bag codes, abs codes, cel codes... hell it even records the very first time you turn the vsa off
Ok i got 3 codes but they all say the same thing.
codes are: p0300, p0301, p0305
says: Engine may not operate properly, Acceleration may be reduced. RPMs may read lower then normal.
09-01-2009, 09:31 AM
#15
first off, catback isnt gonna give you a CEL....doesnt matter what flow you increased,
2nd, you mention disconnecting the battery to reset ECU, and thats fine and dandy, but usually when you disconnect the battery, you should let the car IDLE for 10 mins, mainly for the map sensor to reset and recalibrate itself, and not start driving right away...
3rd, our 3G TL, is extremely sensitive electrical power. in other words, even the slightest loss of ground, can set all kinds of codes...mainly because different sensors and components are affected by different resistance...your CEL flashing when you got on it, is usually a misfire... now im almost positive, this is all due to your battery, since you didn't mention any previous problems, when you disconnected the battery, your terminals may not be making the best contact.
I recently did smth on a friends TL (nothing major), and a few times i tried starting his car, it would sutter..batt didnt seem to have enough juice to even push the starter, nevermind crank...but after a few ignition tries, it would start..and i told him, it was the battery. few days latter he tells me he got a CEL code, translated into "motor was running lean"...thought about it for a min, and told him...it was due to the battery...eventually he ended up changing it...never got a code back.
this is not to say ur problems are due to a bad terminal connection...but something to look into..that can affect sensors throughout the motor, which will throw a code.
Try cleaning the terminals, grease them, tighten them properly, and also, the main ground cable from the batt that's bonded onto the chassis...check that out too...oxidation can affect these things.
i remember once, i couldn't start my car...battery terminals seemed fine and tight...jump starting didn't work, pushing the car didn't work, towing it didn't work...it wouldn't start...i go move the negative terminal...just a light TWIST...the car crancked and started...just an example of how sensitive it is to electrical power.
goodluck...let me know what you find
2nd, you mention disconnecting the battery to reset ECU, and thats fine and dandy, but usually when you disconnect the battery, you should let the car IDLE for 10 mins, mainly for the map sensor to reset and recalibrate itself, and not start driving right away...
3rd, our 3G TL, is extremely sensitive electrical power. in other words, even the slightest loss of ground, can set all kinds of codes...mainly because different sensors and components are affected by different resistance...your CEL flashing when you got on it, is usually a misfire... now im almost positive, this is all due to your battery, since you didn't mention any previous problems, when you disconnected the battery, your terminals may not be making the best contact.
I recently did smth on a friends TL (nothing major), and a few times i tried starting his car, it would sutter..batt didnt seem to have enough juice to even push the starter, nevermind crank...but after a few ignition tries, it would start..and i told him, it was the battery. few days latter he tells me he got a CEL code, translated into "motor was running lean"...thought about it for a min, and told him...it was due to the battery...eventually he ended up changing it...never got a code back.
this is not to say ur problems are due to a bad terminal connection...but something to look into..that can affect sensors throughout the motor, which will throw a code.
Try cleaning the terminals, grease them, tighten them properly, and also, the main ground cable from the batt that's bonded onto the chassis...check that out too...oxidation can affect these things.
i remember once, i couldn't start my car...battery terminals seemed fine and tight...jump starting didn't work, pushing the car didn't work, towing it didn't work...it wouldn't start...i go move the negative terminal...just a light TWIST...the car crancked and started...just an example of how sensitive it is to electrical power.
goodluck...let me know what you find
also should i reset the ECU again and let it idle for 10+ min? first time i did it i was idle for at least ten min but yesterday when i cleared the CEL i drove it right away.
09-01-2009, 10:21 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
"300-random misfire" "301-cylinder 1 misfire" "305-cylinder 5 misfire"
that can be caused from a lot of things.....im telling you to check ur battery connections and make sure ur battery is in good condition. this is, since you didnt have the problem before, and it happened after you reset the ecu by disconnecting the batt.
09-01-2009, 10:07 PM
#17
practicing nihilist
I once got a random flashing CEL while accelerating at 70+ about 2 weeks after pulley and pre-cat install. just flashed a few times, no standing codes, car ran fine. I went easy on it for a day. probably no help
09-02-2009, 12:14 AM
#18
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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if you are misfiring it could also be some cheap fucking gas... or you simply forgot to connect something back in... or you will need to just replace all ur sparkplugs...
09-02-2009, 11:23 AM
#19
anyways i dont think it was a misfire because the engine was running smooth the entire time. even when i got the CEL it was running smooth. i would think that i would feel something if both cyl 1 and 5 misfired..... right..?
so i checked that battery and i disconnected it again and put it back on nice and tight. ran the car for 15 min idle for teh ECU. hopefully it should be fine now. im going to take it easy for a week then try it again and see if i get a CEL.
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