what's the average whp on 3GR TLS?
You do understand that 286 is the rated CRANK HP. You loose 15% or so in "drivetrain loss" when you measure at the wheels.
Makes since to me...
It's a known fact the TL exhaust is very free flowing and doesn't benefit much from opening it up, TL-S even more so as it's "14%" more free flowing than the TL.
Assuming 10 crank hp max gain from the AEM and NONE for the exhaust work... = 296 - (296 x .15) = 251
251 is damn close to 246. Atmospheric condition can make up that difference easy.
Makes since to me...
It's a known fact the TL exhaust is very free flowing and doesn't benefit much from opening it up, TL-S even more so as it's "14%" more free flowing than the TL.
Assuming 10 crank hp max gain from the AEM and NONE for the exhaust work... = 296 - (296 x .15) = 251
251 is damn close to 246. Atmospheric condition can make up that difference easy.
Originally Posted by XxAfG786xX
was your tl an auto or stick/??
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Originally Posted by XxAfG786xX
does auto or stick make any differences on the dyno?
Yes the parasitic loss in the auto tranny is greater than the 15% average difference in the manual setup.
How much gas in the tank has nothing to do with the outcome unless you are almost out of gas and leaning out.
Was the car cooled off before the start of the first pull?
How many pulls did you make?
Did the dyno operator have a fan blowing at the radiator/grille during the pull?
The engine oil temp should be up to operating temp and the coolant should be as well. I have dyno'd and tuned on the dyno several high RWHP cars and the best results come from having a cool intake charge and warmed up bottom end. Too cold and you will lose some power due to ring seal and too hot and heat soak will zap some power as well. It's not just a cut and dried thing.
BTW, what type of dyno? Mustang Dyno or other load bearing type of dyno? Or.. Dynojet standard unit that won't load the drivetrain? Makes a 10-15% difference there as well.
How much gas in the tank has nothing to do with the outcome unless you are almost out of gas and leaning out.
Was the car cooled off before the start of the first pull?
How many pulls did you make?
Did the dyno operator have a fan blowing at the radiator/grille during the pull?
The engine oil temp should be up to operating temp and the coolant should be as well. I have dyno'd and tuned on the dyno several high RWHP cars and the best results come from having a cool intake charge and warmed up bottom end. Too cold and you will lose some power due to ring seal and too hot and heat soak will zap some power as well. It's not just a cut and dried thing.
BTW, what type of dyno? Mustang Dyno or other load bearing type of dyno? Or.. Dynojet standard unit that won't load the drivetrain? Makes a 10-15% difference there as well.
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