Welps today all 3 got replaced. For a baseline, my car = 07 TL-S 6MT; mods = AEM V2 CAI > XLR8 J-pipe > Magnaflow resonator > deleted mid-muffler, fake "Brembo" rear caliper covers.
Other than that stock.

Had my mechanic drop in Innovative 75A front & side motor mounts & went with an OEM replacement for the rear. I got the Innovative mounts from Heeltoe & before going into my write up have to give Marcus & Heeltoe BIG props. Great outfit. Long/short - there was a problem with my order and Heeltoe delivered exemplary customer service. Handled the problem, no questions asked, took excellent care of me, & the mounts were the best price on the web on top of that.

After having taken just one drive with the new mounts in the early result is - I like it! These come out a positive on the mod-for-the-price'ometer.

After reading some other's reviews I was a little worried about excessive vibration, having seen where some experienced mirrors noticeably shaking at idle, when the a/c is on, etc. I detect none of that. "Detect" is a good word. There is a bit more cabin vibration but the increase is barely detectable. I find it most noticeable at very low rpm, mostly just above idle & especially in 1st gear. Around 900 - 1300 rpm - so way down, basically 'puttering around parking lots' speeds is where the new vibration (above what used to be there) is noticeable. Which is no big deal as you really don't drive at those engine speeds all that much. Although I will confess I like that rev range as, with my breathing mods that's where the car really has a nice, deep, throaty tone.

But once rolling & up into the rev band there's nothing 'uncomfortable' about it. There's a slightly more 'buzz' higher on the tach; overall the car is just a bit more 'twitchy' - if that makes sense. Which, personally, I Iike that feeling, so its not a problem or a bad thing. I'd say the new mounts push the car a little farther from being a "luxury sports sedan" & nudges things closer to just plain "sports sedan."

My butt dyno does tell me we're a little bit quicker. Not talking 10% & I don't even know if its enough that would actually show up in a measured 0-60 or quarter mile, it might. But I did a few hole shots and there's no question that more power is getting to the ground & quicker. Mind you that my old mounts, especially the side one, were really shot so any differences I'm noticing may not be as drastic as those done by someone just wanting an upgrade but whose pre-exising mounts are still in decent shape & doing a decent job.

Speaking of someone wanting an upgrade. IF you have an automatic & you're eyeing this upgrade (or just need a replacement), I still have a brand new Acura OEM rear mount up for grabs. Here it is in the marketplace: https://acurazine.com/forums/market/987282. I have absolutely no use for it, the vendor won't take it back & its now just a really expensive paperweight. I'd like to get as much of my $ back out of it as possible but - make an offer and I'll be glad to see it gone!

 

I used the Innovative side mount in mine, others are OEM. Minimal vibration through the steering wheel at idle with the a/c on. Almost 2 years later, zero issues.

 

glad you got them installed and you like it!

@860_TypeS now you need to install yours!!

 

nice setup. glad you like it

 

Derrick, I know you didn't install them yourself but do you know if the mechanic neutralized the mounts? Also any idea what he torqued the bolt/nut that go through the poly bushing to? I asked Marcus and he said Innovative recommended 60 ft/lbs. Still not even sure if it's possible to get a torque wrench on that nut once the mount is installed. Just curious as I'm about to install the same exact set-up this weekend.

Couple days! Really looking forward to the new mounts

 

I believe innovative torque specs for the bolt that’s runs through the poly bushing is for when the mount is off of the car.

 

That would make much more sense lol, I'll ask Marcus and see what he says. About to go at this install right now

 

I would verify that the bolt got torqued down. I installed a full set of mounts straight out of the box and found the nuts rattling down the bolt a few weeks later on a "while i'm in there" check working on exhaust.

Vibration shouldn't get too intense unless you replace the rear mount. Rear mount and trans mount does a good bit of transmission to the cabin. I didn't experience much vibration either doing front and side as one stage. Rear is where it got a bit intense, especially after tightening. Wondering how the trans mount is going to increase that vibration.

 

Which trans mount are you referring too? I'm going to replace all 3 of those tomorrow with OEM ones. And out of curiosity which durometer bushings did you get in the motor mounts, 60A or 75A?

 

Upper and Lower, so both. There aren't any aftermarket solutions for this, so they've been filled/formed with 70a urethane mix.
The Innovative mounts are all 60a and vibration was only added when I did the rear mount, and the spoon sports subframe stiffeners.

If you're OEM replacing, you'll be fine on vibration.

 

Thanks man! I did 75A front and side then OEM rear for motor and all OEM for trans. Trying to keep it reasonable for a daily. Appreciate the response

 

Sorry brudda, I've been out of town since last week & just now checking in on the forum. But it looks like you got your inquiries addressed.

 

Acura needs to engineer a setup for 2 front motor mounts instead of 1. That would solve a lot of the breaking issue. And once the front mount breaks it puts an increased stress on the side mount. I think the reason the front mount breaks and the rear doesn't is because of the way the motor rotates when it runs. It is constantly jerking up on the front mount and pushing down on the rear mount. For same reason is likely why the rear doesn't break very often. As for the transmission mountS, since the engine and transmission are coupled, the transmission mount with the most flexibility, should last longer. I think we have 2 lower and 1 upper transmission mount. But age and dry rot and hot and cold and rain doesn't help.

*** Glad to hear vibrations come mostly from the rear. I am replacing the front and side with a pair I see on EBAY but they have good reviews.. for 2 mounts it costs about $140. So it is not the cheapest ones I see on ebay. Not sure if that matters

 

also has anyone ever replaced the Rear Engine damper? (acurapartswarehouse doesnt know what this is)

https://www.hondaacuraonline.com/oem...ck-50829sepa02

 

It's came in the manual only. There's an additional bracket you need to add it to the automatic.

There's a thread on it here somewhere.

 

Ah.. that explains why acurapartswarehouse doesn't know what it is for my automatic.. 😂
thanks!

 

Cheap aftermarket generic rubber mounts are absolute garbage. Very low quality rubber. I'd be surprised if you got 1 year out of them.
The OEM mounts were designed for maximum comfort, and for typical drivers, that don't do WOT that often, so the front mount isn't being stretched that much.
And areas with higher average temps, like Texas and the southwest tend to make the mounts deteriorate faster. Us enthusiasts need more durable mounts.
I have a set of Fastline mounts. Only a tiny bit more vibration than stock, but hold the engine torque much better. And they will last the lifetime of the car.
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/mounts-b...-isolator.html

 

Did you replace both front and rear?
those look like they have no rubber or hardly any. I bet they last long.. 😀

 

Yes, front and rear. The rubber inserts look small compared to the OEM mounts, but the OEM mounts have the hydraulic feature, which I think is useless.
I did a test where I removed the vacuum line for the stock mounts while the engine was idling. I went back and forth between connected and disconnected.
In other words, activated, and deactivated. I couldn't tell the difference sitting in the car. The hydraulic feature is supposed to make the engine vibration less
noticeable at idle, but if it's not detectable, then it's a waste of money. Honda added cost and made the mounts less durable with that feature.

 

The motor mounts are vacuum controlled by a solenoid and the solenoid is controlled by the ECM. The solenoid is activated by the ECM based on engine RPM. (and maybe other conditions??).. "On" at Idle and "Off" at 2000 rpm. So, just merely pushing and pulling the vacuum cable may not tell the whole story! For example, your old mounts may have been leaking vacuum because they were broke. And if that is the case then you would not see any difference. But truthfully, I am not 100% sure if the activation of the solenoid ADDS Vacuum or if activtion means there is NO Vacuum. Either way, if you mounts are broke, the seal has been broken and they wont function properly. So pushing and pulling the cable wont do anything

 

Yes, I know how the mounts work. It was on a set of nearly new mounts. All testing was done at idle, so the mount control solenoid should have been activated. No vacuum leaks.

 

The troubleshooting in the Helm book continues on the next page. If your motor mounts were broken when you tested, then any applied vacuum will not be seen because the mount is broken (ripped, torn, therefore unsealed). So if you just pulled and reconnected the vacuum line in that condition, it wont change anything. Even if you could realize a change, how would you know? Seat of the pants? haha I guess maybe with your hand (feeling it) since you were under the car??