KN, HiSpeed, and I think Gerzand are gonna be your fuel pump pros. My understanding is that you can run a walbro in the stock location, but there is some customizing needed. The other option is to remove the regulator at the pump and run an aftermarket regulator. Hopefully they will chime in to straighten out the fuel pump questions.

Thanks for the info on the FIC injectors. $790 for 6 injectors seems high at first until you realize they are pnp for the J - with pigtails and adatpers too. Can't beat that. I may even go with just the 775 or 900s - their WHP numbers are a tad optimistic for me (I prefer to stay 85% DC) but I only want 375-400WHP and the 775s should do that with ease, even on E.

 

A few of the turbo guys have Walbro pumps in place of the stock pump and a few have Aeromotive 340's. On my build we used an aftermarket pump housing that had the FPR in the top and had allowed access to the fuel line before it went through the regulator.

 

Get a price from Axion Industries they were about a 100 bucks less than that with free shipping

 

Jack, do you have a link or information about the housing you used?

My Walbro had a whine that could be heard from a mile away. I had it replaced with a Aeromotive unit. If you plan on using the same housing, there is modifications needed. The Walbro is a bit smaller and takes less surgery. Both are the same flow even though they say they are different. All a play on words.

I did a lot of searching on injectors. Everything I read said you can't go wrong with ID. I've got a set of ID1000's on my bench. The connectors are not an issue. Most can just be popped out and placed into the appropriate plug. But even if you have to repin, a cheap set of crimpers will do the trick.

 

Ran out of time....

But with regard to the FPR, our stock basket has the FPR at the bottom of the unit in parallel with the pump output.

In Gerzand's case, he is running both the stock and external FPR because he isn't going above the stock fuel pressure.

I was going to just hack out the whole top of the existing pump inlet and run a rubber line to the outside. But if Jack has an alternative to make this cleaner, I am interested.

We are all running a return style fuel system with the external FPR.

 

I am going to pick up my old engine in a few days and will try to get the info on the aftermarket pump housing. It looked almost identical to the stock pump, with the exception of having the FPR in the top and an exposed fuel line coming from the pump up to the stock FPR. The shop played around with my housing for weeks even adding a plug to reroute the fuel around the regulator and we still were not getting good fuel pressure. The cardboard was causing a restriction and could not be removed. My feeling is that the pump was from an older TL or CL, but could have been just an aftermarket pump for the 3G's.

I don't see the point in running an aftermarket FPR and leaving the stock FPR in place other than to act as the return. All you could do it lower the fuel pressure which doesn't seem like the goal. That said we may not have to run a external FPR other than to return fuel to the tank since the stock fuel pressure is pretty high.

 

Thanks, I want to eliminate the stock FPR and don't think it's best to leave it.

When you talk about the cardboard, is that the chamber where the fuel exit and fpr is connected? If it is, I wondered if that would be bad for flow.

You really do need the FPR after the rails so that there is a consistent flow of fuel and the dump is happening after the rails. With the FPR in the supply side, you affect flow when dumping fuel for pressure, especially in a return-less setup.

 

I think the cardboard is part of the fuel exit and it did seem to restrict fuel flow.

 

the 9th gen civic si guys and i think 8th gen si's are using the Deatschwerks DW65C Fuel Pump. It is a straight drop in with out having to modify the basket. I wonder if this will work for us also.

http://www.deatschwerks.com/products...s/dw65c-detail

 

This is dope! Good luck, OP! Many of us are excited to see the results!

 

How are things going?

 

so far so good been on vacation the last little bit so i haven't been able to work on my car. gonna get started on getting the intercooler installed in the next week or so.

 

Ok we have been trying to decide what turbo to use and there is very little info. on remote mounting I know we have to deal with the loss of heat and energy from it but I'm not a turbo guru can anyone help ? and let me know what they are running on there normal turbo manifolds and when they start to spool up and when they hit full boost (or 10 to 12 PSI)
CT3X-5558 333300-0002 HE 58 550 HP
CT3X-6062 333300-0003 HE 62 660 HP
CT3X-6262 333300-0004 HE 62 700 HP
Or should I go with a CT4X ??

Comp Turbo - CT3 Series
O

 

Are you looking for the car to have more midrange, or top end.
I'm going to generalize pretty hard right now when I say this, but most turbo's are efficient for about 3k RPM of powerband. So go with that 5558 and you will hit 10 psi by 3k RPM and the turbo will be choked out by 6k and will fall on its face over that.

If you want power to redline I would do a 6262. On 3.0 liter/low compression supra builds, that turbo see's 10 pounds around 3500 rpm which would be perfect to pull to a 6500-7000 redline.

 

got the intercooler just about ready to mount. i made custom brackets that my dad designed. theyre gonna be visible through the grill so i want to make them look bad ass. we have been messing around with various designs to have milled out. not in love with the design with the holes on the side. suggestions/photoshopped images anyone?

 

I like the center cut out vs the holes. Maybe do triangle shapes?

 

+1 for the center cut out's, looking good.

 

Drew some up using triangles... looked freaking awesome...unfortunately its not something I can do my self and dont want to spend the money yet.
Most likely just going to do the center cutout and polish them to a mirrored finish.
maybe make new brackets and do triangles later on... cause again they look awesome.

 

got the brackets all finished up and polished up to a nearly mirrored finish,
replaced the hood latch cover with an aluminium box still got to notch out the center a bit so the hood will close all the way.
all in all id say its going quite well.
next, we run pipes.

 

Subscribed! Awesome work!

 

It took him 10 hours to make those bling brackets, was it worth it ? OH YEAH

 

Well it looks like might be scrapping the remote mount and mounting it up front, the appeal of opening the hood and having a turbo sitting there is what my kid wants more than the easy install of the remote setup, we took the battery out to make the intercooler piping and that was it he could picture what a turbo sitting there would look like, it's my fault he's been looking at my engine bay for to long LOL

 

Other than the time and money spent thus far on the remote setup idea, I think mounting it near the engine will prove better any many regards. I know its easy and all to do the rear mount setup but if making a turbo build was easy to do than everyone would have one. It's takes both time and money to make a car fast. Seems like I don't have to say this to you but I will any ways: It's takes both time and money to make a car fast. You better get use to it.

Again, post pics of the progress.

 

I was excited to see a different take on things, especially the oilless turbos. I did some reading up on them and there were mixed opinions on them and reports of varying longevity. I think the most interesting aspect of them was the ability to mount in any position and there were some cool placements of them with them mounted vertically. Still, I think an engine bay placement does have a 'cool factor' when popping the hood, plus the ability to run a regular oiled turbo will probably reduce the cost somewhat - those oilless ones aren't cheap.

 

This is off topic....

What does your son have for a tig welder? I would like to give a redesign of the piping a shot after I get the engine back together.

I'm looking at a Miller Diversion 180 so I can do both SS/Al and was just curious what he's got and how it's working out.

Thanks.

 

KN, If you don't have to buy American made, I've used the Everlast PowerTig 185 and it works great. Granted, I wasn't welding a 6in shedule 80 pipe, but it did great on everything I could think of using it for on a car, and it's a good bit cheaper than the Miller. I'd get a good tig rig though.

 

I'm self taught with almost everything and this particular model appeared to be the easiest to get off the ground with regard to settings.

Do you still think an Everlast, Eastwood or something similar would be easy for a newb?

 

We have a deversion 180 and it is soso I would get an everlast that is more adjustable and has the pulse option if I were to buy another one, just tape the pipes together and find your local welding guru and pay him $100 bucks to weld it it's a ton of money buy the time you get the wlder $1000+ bucks bottle $200 (that you will have to fill constantly for $100 a pop) assortment of rod $150 tips gloves helmet ETC $300 it gets out of hand Quick

 

Have you done any tig welding at all yet? I had to learn on a stick welder, and wish I hadn't since it didn't have a foot pedal for current. You just set the knob and went. Granted that only did steel, but it worked. I guess it had benefits because it was so old school, so I know how to do lift start tig. When I got to the A/C unit, the foot pedal confused me since I was used to doing it without it.

I took a class at our local technical college and it was great fun. If you have anything like that near you I'd recommend it. You have to buy some of the equipment, but you'll use all of it well after the class is done.

If you don't have that option or don't want to, check out the Mr. Tig videos on youtube. That guy is great welder, and his information was spot on with what I was taught. He also recommends the Everlast Tig welder. I don't think you can go wrong with it. It's about 750 - 1000 depending on where you get it. You'll also need an argon tank and regulator. I'd suggest a nice tig torch as well. Welding is fun - I wish I had more time to devote to it! I'd kill to be able to make some welds like Richie does!

 

yes those oilless turbos cost quite a bit, we had one quoted at about 2500 with the turbo and the cover. but the turbo im looking at is going to be pretty pricy too. its most likely going to be a borg warner efr, not sure on the size i dont really know enough that. im just going to be trusting my dad on this one. and it may be more work and cost a bit more in the long run but i think it will pay off

 

I've got a mig and have done some stick in the past. No tig experience at all at the moment. Looking at a Everlast 210 ext now. But this will be after I recover from build expenses. I'm out of town and just looking at stuff I'd like to get. Thanks for your insight.

As far as cost getting out of control.....I am well beyond that

 

As far as cost getting out of control.....I am well beyond that [/QUOTE]

Funny stuff there it's a boost thing LOL

 

hands down coolest cold air intake ever.
up all night doing this.
then while I was trying to put on bumper I noticed that it didn't fit right anymore.
it warped when we welded a steel plate on the back for support.
not a problem though, got it straightened out and put on.

 

so i got some more supporting mods, power steering cooler, thought it looked better than the original, most likely gonna go underneath my inner bumper.
transmission cooler, going behind my intercooler.
and finaly my innovative motor mounts.

 

It took me a second but I get it! . Looking good! How are you mounting the turbo? Compressor inlet facing the front or to the rear?

 

We would like to mount compressor inlet forward but with an automatic there is not much room to run it that way so most likely run the rear pipe over the transmission the front pipe to it and rout the down pipe where the front pre cat was and under the oil pan

 

oh....5AT.

That's going to limit your allowable HP. One member tried like crazy to get the clutches to hold more but eventually gave up and converted his ride to a 6MT. Don't remember exactly what the numbers were.

 

Yeah we are going for 400-450, the the type-s has a much better transmission than the base models AUTOGARBAGE TRANSMISSION

 

Confused? I thought the intercooler came after the turbo? Unless the picture is just a mock up, it appears the turbo is after the intercooler?

 

No turbo yet the turbo will feed into the pipe that the air filter is on (temperary) so he can drive the car