When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Drove her to work today, felt great! Did a pull and overheated a bit though probably an air bobble.
Other that that and the weather slowing me down, the tuning is going good.
I meant to post these pics a couple days ago, but work has been busy as hell.
new pistons<br/>and the valves (thanks again gerzand)
Dumb question - what are the benefits of those valves over stock?
Both types are much stronger compared to stock,
The intake side (hollow stem stainless) are also much lighter than the stock as.
The exhaust side is made of an extremely heat resistant material (inconel)
that wont weaken under the extreme temperatures of forced induction.
I see you guys realized what I was saying about the generation of HEAT and made you a few custom shields. I'm telling you, that was my biggest ongoing issue and heat shielding/wrapping was the best mod I did for it!
Keep up the good work. Making me antsy over here on putting my turbo setup back on. I'm gonna make one good dyno on this j35 though NA once I get my exhaust opened up and off to the darkside I go....AGAIN!
Any tuning info or data on the build yet? What's the AFRs set at in open loop WOT? Ignition advance table numbers? Any knock detection or controller system being used? Did you guys ever decide on running water/meth injection?
Also, what did you end up setting the ring gaps at on the upper and middle rings?
You should remove the engine cover, or see if the factory "3.5 VTEC" badge fits in place of the 3.5 i-vtec vcm one. It comes with an adhesive backing and it's cheap.
You should remove the engine cover, or see if the factory "3.5 VTEC" badge fits in place of the 3.5 i-vtec vcm one. It comes with an adhesive backing and it's cheap.
I plan on taking the old badge off and having a custom one made for it further down the road. The old badge didnt fit unfortunately. All the plastic is only on there when im showing off the engine some where. So im not too worried yet
I see you guys realized what I was saying about the generation of HEAT and made you a few custom shields. I'm telling you, that was my biggest ongoing issue and heat shielding/wrapping was the best mod I did for it!
Keep up the good work. Making me antsy over here on putting my turbo setup back on. I'm gonna make one good dyno on this j35 though NA once I get my exhaust opened up and off to the darkside I go....AGAIN!
Any tuning info or data on the build yet? What's the AFRs set at in open loop WOT? Ignition advance table numbers? Any knock detection or controller system being used? Did you guys ever decide on running water/meth injection?
Also, what did you end up setting the ring gaps at on the upper and middle rings?
No water meth yet. Not much timing. Maybey 13* top ring gap is 0.017 (bore x 0.005) bottom ring gap is 0.019 (bore x 0.0055) no other knock controller other than what she came with, a good tuner, and a close ear on everything.
and yeah right off the bat heat controll was a priority. Ive got heat shields underneath the turbo with heat wrap around the wring underneath that. The manifold and down pipe both been double wrapped with dei titanium wrap. And the one you saw in the pics attached to the down pipe.
and soon one to go around the air filter as well. The cowl has had been hacked up...... I mean modified as well to help air flow through. Any other suggestions as to a place that'll need one?
Did you do anything to bump oil pressure? I've read of people adding shims to the relief valve spring but I don't know if I want to do this.
The access to this is inside the pan so I want to do this before bolting on the pan for the last time.
Thanks!
We did nothing to the oil pump but we did plug the piston cooling jets, that should give us more volume but the pressure shoulden't change much, I think you will be fine with the stock pressure with the oil restictor on the turbo feed line (you do have one don't you ? if not precision turbos like to smoke without one)
We did nothing to the oil pump but we did plug the piston cooling jets, that should give us more volume but the pressure shoulden't change much, I think you will be fine with the stock pressure with the oil restictor on the turbo feed line (you do have one don't you ? if not precision turbos like to smoke without one)
Thanks.
We had a discussion about using the restrictor when the kits were first being put together. We were told not to use it and haven't had a problem with it smoking.
No water meth yet. Not much timing. Maybey 13* top ring gap is 0.017 (bore x 0.005) bottom ring gap is 0.019 (bore x 0.0055) no other knock controller other than what she came with, a good tuner, and a close ear on everything.
and yeah right off the bat heat controll was a priority. Ive got heat shields underneath the turbo with heat wrap around the wring underneath that. The manifold and down pipe both been double wrapped with dei titanium wrap. And the one you saw in the pics attached to the down pipe.
and soon one to go around the air filter as well. The cowl has had been hacked up...... I mean modified as well to help air flow through. Any other suggestions as to a place that'll need one?
I learned very quickly that the turbo itself was the biggest contributor to the heat and focused on thermal insulation here the most. I gave the housing several coats of ceramic coating (inside and out), then had Hickam fab up a custom stainless enclosure that went around the hot side turbine which was then packed with a ceramic wool between itself and the walls. That probably gave my underhood temps the biggest reduction. Other than that, the manifolds, downpipe and even the wastegates/dump tubes were ceramic painted then wrapped with both DEI lava and oem VW mendable heatshield.
Lots of work but it all paid off. I'll be throwing my turbo back on within the next few weeks....I admit I've enjoyed the decreased maintenance on the car. Lol
I learned very quickly that the turbo itself was the biggest contributor to the heat and focused on thermal insulation here the most. I gave the housing several coats of ceramic coating (inside and out), then had Hickam fab up a custom stainless enclosure that went around the hot side turbine which was then packed with a ceramic wool between itself and the walls. That probably gave my underhood temps the biggest reduction. Other than that, the manifolds, downpipe and even the wastegates/dump tubes were ceramic painted then wrapped with both DEI lava and oem VW mendable heatshield.
Lots of work but it all paid off. I'll be throwing my turbo back on within the next few weeks....I admit I've enjoyed the decreased maintenance on the car. Lol
The box sounds like a good idea.
ive got a nice dei turbo blanket that works pretty well
like this one here
but there are spots that dont cover the turbo. Like the inlet flange. Got a little piece of ceramic fiber heat shield over it until i can find a better solution. Ive got everything but the turbo coated. And double wrapped the exhaust manifold, triple wrapped the down pipe. Ive been thinking of putting a heat shield between the manifold and the head.
The increased maintenance is a pain but i find that the boost is worth it. Especially when you see the look on an sti guys face as you basically walk past him on the freeway. Had that happen a week or so ago and he couldnt even make eye contact after we tried to get him to do a second pull.
Last edited by UTAH Type-S; May 14, 2015 at 06:36 PM.
so yet another theory as to the frequent demise of these engines under boost
the timing may be off from the factory. i pulled the plugs after some hard detonation and a misfire. and all but 5 and 6 looked ok. Those two had some signs of serious detonation.
the metal pieces found imbedded in them were scary as hell.
after it all got put back together with some colder, less metal peppered plugs. i did a pull with a new tune Vit sent me and took a picture of the timing marks. i cant really read plugs, still being pretty new to this and all. but he said that the cylinders were pretty misbalanced. he said " #4 needs a little more timing. #1/2/3 all want more timing -- 5 & 6 want a tad less." so until the timing issues get fixed. ima be checking the plugs between pulls.
so yet another theory as to the frequent demise of these engines under boost
the timing may be off from the factory. i pulled the plugs after some hard detonation and a misfire. and all but 5 and 6 looked ok. Those two had some signs of serious detonation.
the metal pieces found imbedded in them were scary as hell.
after it all got put back together with some colder, less metal peppered plugs. i did a pull with a new tune Vit sent me and took a picture of the timing marks. i cant really read plugs, still being pretty new to this and all. but he said that the cylinders were pretty misbalanced. he said " #4 needs a little more timing. #1/2/3 all want more timing -- 5 & 6 want a tad less." so until the timing issues get fixed. ima be checking the plugs between pulls.
I would try posting the datalog and associated cal to the Hondata forums. Doug appears to monitor them regularly.
I wonder if it's just a bad design. The 3.2s I know have a tendency to blow out plugs in cylinder 5 - maybe it's just more prone to detonation because of the single exit exhaust? I would think that cylinder two would be susceptible as well then, and I don't recall seeing any reports of that cylinder blowing out plugs (thank god!).
I would try posting the datalog and associated cal to the Hondata forums. Doug appears to monitor them regularly.
With what expectation? The datalogs nor the software show any problems. It's a tuning/fuel/motor limitation and not a problem with their software. That's a slight bank to bank variance (nothing new, V8's have it bad sometimes), which can already be adjusted for in the software.
I had Dean turn the boost down to WG pressure (~6psi), an she pulls like a dream, making 400 still.. the 91 octane is a limiting factor, and the bank to bank variance is already adjusted for. I think there's a tunnel vision effect going on in that "X" boost is wanted to be seen, but that's not how you setup and tune a turbo car, as you may reach the limits of the fuel/motor/blah well before you see "X" boost.
I was running water/meth on my turbo build... Be careful...
If anything, water/meth is a big PRO with regards to safety vs. running straight 91.
Granted, if he tunes for meth with higher boost and the meth runs out or the pump fails, that would be bad - and that's why I'm not a fan of it. We have 110 octane at the pump here, and E85 readily available. The 110 is 8 bucks a gallon tho I definitely am planning on running E on my setup eventually, at least at higher boost pressures.
probably an air bobble. 
I definitely am planning on running E on my setup eventually, at least at higher boost pressures.
