I think is because of the flange that goes from the IM to the Supercharger. With enough money you can make anything work.

 

So what's your next step here now that you've confirmed that it's an octane limited issue?

Reduce timing or boost? Richening the AFR in the knock prone areas? Speaking of which, I remember that the knocks were occurring at very low speeds, engine revs, and negative MAP readings...are you certain that the issue has been alleviated with knock resistant fuel? Seems like a scenario that would zero relation to octane limits IMO.

 

So you put race fuel in and now your not picking up any knock from reading the plugs, or the ECU is now no longer seeing knock?

You still have the stock mufflers? This could be a problem.

 

a lot of those on the datalog were false knocks. the audibel knocks didnt show up on the logs, but they disappeared when we took out a lot of timing. they would show up again at higher boost on pump gas but using the racing gas the noise would stop altogether on higher boost.
so with my tune i have right now on pump gas i can run up to 7 lb and at least 9 lb on race gas, maybe more my boost limiter is set pretty low right now. i plan on raising it to 10 or 11 lb and seeing how much more i can push it.

 

What octane are you using for your race gas? We have 110 leaded everywhere at the pumps here. I know E85 is a mixed bag that there's no agreement on- the AKI is 96ish but the RON is 108. I know we could run timing past MBT and never hit knock on E in the EJs, but that could also be due to the cooling effects of E with added fuel.

I have to say I'm not a big time race head so I couldn't even say what octane is available above 110.

 

The point I was trying to make earlier on was that it shouldn't require running a high octane fuel just to push 7-9lbs of boost and stay detonation free.

And I know there can be a huge difference between 9lbs of boost at 95 degrees coming from a larger turbo and 140 degree air coming from a smaller turbo but that's more along the lines of worst case/best case scenario. It's just that you were convinced that the factory pistons busted (at less boost pressure) because they were just "shitty pistons" but I'm concerned because now you're beginning to see greater evidence of an ongoing issue and running higher octane fuel is simply acting as a bandaid. I'm convinced of there being an unresolved problem that will eventually rear its face again sooner or later unless dealt with properly.

I'm not trying to bash here so please don't be offended.

 

In reality though Robert, how much boost do you think he should be able to run on his high CR on 93 with no meth? I think 9psi is pretty high and his power at 9psi is what ~ 450+ whp? When thinking about it again, I wonder if he merely exceeded the power level of the stock pistons - knocking on 500 whp is pretty high and there aren't that many examples of the J35 doing that - J32A2 - sure.

Just trying to stimulate discussion as well here. I forget what CR you went with Utah - wasn't it 10:1? That's DI level CR for FI. I would stay 9:1 and have more wiggle room in the tune. Always easier to add a lb or two of boost to get back anything lost by the CR.

 

I'm only speaking from my experience with the same engine. I never seen any knock occur until 12lbs of boost and that was nearly at the top of 4th, WOT, 11.0:1 CR, on a 95 degree night....right after it rained. I even ran at 15lbs for a short duration in these same conditions. He's seeing knock at 7-9lbs of boost, it just sounds wrong to me, that's all. For anyone curious, I was running a Precision 6262 and seems to be an efficient turbo which obviously makes the world of difference.

I initially had some issues with knock in strange areas of engine speeds then learned how much of an effect the underhood temps were affecting things. After finally sorting out this problem (or at least managing it), knocks disappeared like magic and enabled me to finally go above 8lbs of boost.

 

We are 10.3-10.4 compression ratio and our fuel is 91 with up to 10% ethanol 93 is like race fuel compared to our gas, our turbo is almost identical to a 6262 the turbin wheel is just a tad bigger and it has a huge turbine A/R of 1.05 so will have less back pressure, we still want more flow than the stock mufflers but we feel the only way we can get more power is with a lower compression ratio we are thinking 8.5 -1 for our terrible fuel, we have gone into the 10's on fuel and cut back timing but it still knocked at 10 PSI, it's a work in progress, I think the kid want's to just drive it and enjoy it for a minute before we tear into again

 

I hear that - I'd be driving the hell out of it too. That is a BIG A/R - I'm surprised it spools so well.

The 'pee water 91' as I hear the folks in Cali call it, lol, is TERRIBLE for performance of any kind.

If you do anything before you tear it back apart, drop the exhaust - I'd love to get a quantifiable difference to see how much power they are robbing.

 

On my k24 TSX I tried the stock mufflers on the dyno then cut it off before the y so it was straight 3 inch and gained 30 WHP at 9 PSI they are a lot like the TL's mufflers I think this could be part of the knock problem also, we will find out for sure

 

i used leaded 112, i used 5 gallons of it and filled the rest of my tank up with 91
if my math is correct the octane rating for that tank would be 96-98. nothing at the pump though. its all in drums around here.

 

Lol 400-450??? Need more info i have a tl type s 07 manual and i really want to have more HP then factory 287 maybe a 350 i should be ok anybody with some help thanks

 

^^ Best first post ever! LMFAO

 

hahaha best indeed. I am new, want HP, help!!!

 

I hear the electric superchargers on ebay do wonders.

 

So I have been having issues with overheating in this summer heat. So after a few little additions here and there, chopping up more of my hood cowl, hood spacers, and a third fan. Nothing seemed to help so I decided to do an aftermarket radiator.



This is for a 2008 and up Subaru Sti/WRX. Its the 3 row core model (x-line).
Here is the part number: MMRAD-STI-08X.
The radiator is about the same width and a little shorter. You will need new fans I found a shroud kit from Derale that worked for one side, but i had to use a slim fan for the passenger side. I started by making a new base for the radiator to sit on.



This is a side view of the base. The flaps that are angled are where I will mount it to the frame, the flaps pointing up. On the top I used a 1" hole saw to cut holes at about the 5 1/2" and 28 1/2" spot on the tape measure for the mounting grommets.

this sits just above where the old radiator base sat on the sub frame. in this spot




Sorry, I forgot to take pictures of the base mounted, but the angled flaps go right on the subframe where it starts to angle up fastened with some self tapping screws, and a bolt that goes all the way through the subframe and is secured from the other side.
Also, to help figure out where the base needs to be I used wire to hang the radiator in postion while i marked up where the base will ultimately be.

the fans are kinda tricky to figure out, cause my turbo manifold takes up so much space. But i think that you guys with the J&R kit will have more luck.
Its hard to tell but i also bent the A/C condenser brackets toward the front a bit to give me some more room.






I know that the slim fan isn't ideal but its working so it will have to do until i can find something better.



Because i had to move the A/C condenser, my transmission cooler didnt fit behind my intercooler any more, so i mounted it sideways under it, angleing it up towards the bumper. looks kinda bitchin if you ask me.

And now the finished product.



as you can see it sitts lower than the old one did. my front plastic cover, well, covers the top tank, so i gotta trim that to make it not hide all the shiny. But its working quite well so far.
My next project is most likely be direct port meth injection.
I would recommend anyone here running forced induction do something similar. The ect gauge in our car doesnt let you know your over heating until your already way too hot.
My gauge wouldnt move above the middle tick until I was running at 225+.
At that point its too late your just going to get a runaway heating affect, at least thats what would happen to me.

 

Meth injection ? is it running cooler with less knock now ?

 

Yes, its definitely running colder now and with much less knock. The only time my ect got above 195* was when I got stuck in stop and go traffic on the freeway in 90*+ weather, and when I turned off the a/c my temp quickly went back down to 185*.
Im now getting ready to do individual port water/meth injection, with a post intercooler nozzle as well. I just need some help with nozzle selection.
Anyone familiar with this stuff that can help me out with that? I was thinking 1GPH for the ports, and a 2 or 3 GPH for the post intercooler.

 

what kit are you using? Aquamist like I suggested or a different brand?

 

They are crazy expensive, I think he is looking at devilsown kits

 

Might I suggest running a simple water (only) injection setup at first to see if it helps? This would make things easier and safer for you in regards to tuning. Trust me, you don't want to over complicate anything if you don't have to.

 

but its so awesome! I am rocking a HF-2 kit.

 

They do look a lot better with injector pulse control the devilsown is map controlled only

 

Might as well get the one with the best controller. You already spend a ton of cash. Might as well make it worth wild.

 

i started looking at these kits and decided that this was the best way to go, they are more expensive, but it seems to be worth it. cost is already out of control, so whats another ~$600.
im going with post intercooler spray for now due to budget issues. but i still plan on going with individual port injection when i can acquire the money/time.

 

good choice. I am really happy with the W/M on my car and its just N/A. It will work wonders on your turbo TL.

 

What benefits are you seeing on your NA motor?

 

Being able to run higher timing and knock suppression. Regardless of weather. IAT is ambient or below once it kicks in

 

Sweet. Ive been considering hooking up my water/meth kit on my current NA setup but figured it probably wouldnt be worth the extra effort. How much more timing have you been able to add?

 

On a 10.1CR J30a the water meth is not ''needed'' to raise timing since it's pretty much knock free on stock form with 91gas but on a 11.1Cr then a water meth would be more than welcome to at least be at stock level timing or at 2-3 deg more with no knocks with 91gas

 

^ what Dom said, I am probably going to swap in a j35a5 motor in the future for extra power. They are getting cheaper and cheaper every month.

 

Lol, I'm not running a j30 in my Accord. Its been swapped for a j35z3 bottom end and topped off with j37a4 heads and cams.

I'm running slightly under 10.7:1 according to the formula

 

Dom was referring to my motor . I have a j30a5 accord.

 

Ah! Ok!

 

update
I got my methanol kit put in, made a mount to hang the pump in front of my window washer tank.
turned this


into this



and found a good spot to mount it and mounted the pump to the plate.



After that, I ran the lines to the other side where my intercooler inlet and outlet are.
This is the solenoid valve that controls the flow of the meth to the jets.



Then i tapped into the intake pipe, put in the jet adapter fittings and lastly the jets.
One on the lower intake pipe a couple feet after the intercooler inlet.


Pardon the low quality of the photo it looked much better on my tiny phone screen........
and a jet up top right after the blow-off valve.


Here you can see the fitting that the jet goes into. I can see how these things could come in handy if you are constantly messing with jet sizes. Being able to take them in and out repeatedly without worrying about messing up your thin aluminum intake pipe.

I was able to get i think 2 or 3 logs in with domGSR-T before a couple people deserving some kind of crackhead, douchebag of the year award. Smashed my back window in and took my meth controller, damaging the main pump harness in the process, and out right ripping my boost controller out of its harness, popped open my trunk, and took my flashpro and laptop.

Kinda fucked my world up for a little bit. But in the light of trying to turn a negative into a positive, I decided to take advantage of the down time my car was seeing to redo a bit of my wiring to clean it up a bit (still kind of amateur here, and the mess from my first wiring job, the wideband gauge,was still haunting my under dash area).

And while the dash was torn apart, perhaps more than necessary, I mounted a shiny new scramble switch for the shiny um... used boost controller I found on ebay for a good price.
And when the meth controller arrived, I mounted the indicator button in my instrument panel, and painted the button cover to match my trim.



scramble boost button on the left. methanol power button/indicator to the right, in between my tachometer and speedometer (hope its spelled right)

And I dont know if you even know this site exists but to the guy I bought my water meth kit from, Howerton Engineering, LLC , thanks for helping me out with a new controller and power button at a beyond fair price. If any one is looking to get an aquamist water/meth kit, this is your guy. He only deals with the aquamist W/M systems and accessories on his site and knows his way around them.
The guy is pretty quick to respond to your questions if your a serious buyer as well.

 

I would call Hondata and let them know your FlashPro was stolen if you haven’t already. The FlashPro is useless to anybody else since it’s locked to your car. I think the only way to unlock it is if you do it or it’s sent to Hondata. It’s worth a try

 

thats been done already. as soon as i found out about that i dug up my old box and sent the pin# to hondata. i think it would be interesting to see what would happen if the flashpro gets sent in to get unlocked.

 

Bunch of savages - sad to hear about everything getting stolen. I'm always curious if something like this is a smash and grab by a meth head, not knowing what they are stealing and hoping to pawn it, or another car person looking for freebies. If it were a car person, you'd think they would know the Flashpro was locked. Hope you recover it or get it taken care of!

 

Thanks, luckily the insurance adjuster was cool as hell and helped me out a ton. And the guys will probably never get found the cameras at my work are of a poor quality to see anything worth while. Probably just some crack heads who got lucky and saw my meth controller hanging out. It wasnt stashed in the dash yet, lesson learned, and then kept finding more and more. They broke into another car first and stole a buddys wallet, rear view mirror, and air jordans.
im now saving up to buy a nice aftermarket alarm with a backup battery that also talks to my phone that way. Thought about some booby traps, but i dont want to deal with the potential legal issues.