TL-S...break pad question
TL-S...break pad question
I'm driving a 08 TL-S....right now i just hit 11K miles...
when i brought in my car for inspection, the dealer told me my front break pad is super thin...and they would require $500 to fix.
my questions are:
1) is it normal for the TL-S break pad to get super thin at 11K miles only?
2) is $500 too expensive, should i fix it thru them?
3) i'm thinking of buying the pads on my own and bring to local shop to fix. if so, anyone knows where and what model i should get?
thx a bunch....i need some info!
when i brought in my car for inspection, the dealer told me my front break pad is super thin...and they would require $500 to fix.
my questions are:
1) is it normal for the TL-S break pad to get super thin at 11K miles only?
2) is $500 too expensive, should i fix it thru them?
3) i'm thinking of buying the pads on my own and bring to local shop to fix. if so, anyone knows where and what model i should get?
thx a bunch....i need some info!
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My original pads lasted me around 48K miles
I got new pads and new drilled rotors for $220 shipped and installed them myself so yes $500 for pads is ridiculous and they should last way longer than 11K miles
I got new pads and new drilled rotors for $220 shipped and installed them myself so yes $500 for pads is ridiculous and they should last way longer than 11K miles
my stock pads lasted about 18k miles. Then i bought some cheapy werner pads from advanced auto... According to Rodney they lasted about 3 weeks and they were terrible. get what u pay for i assume
Not all the time as the $69 ones I got were highly recommended here. Pleased I did.
I am not sure how anyones pads wear out so fast unless you have rotors that are worn and groved??
the pads im running now stop decent maybe a lil harder than stock but they creat very little brake dust at all as where the stock brembos made so much dust worth the trade off
the pads im running now stop decent maybe a lil harder than stock but they creat very little brake dust at all as where the stock brembos made so much dust worth the trade off
10K seems early even for the manual.
Aftermarket pads will cure the problem. Search around for a more aggresive pad. Most track pads will last forever but may be harder on the rotors. I highly suggest looking at Cobalt pads if they make them for the 6mt. Very good pads and you can select from their chart from 4 different pads, each one more aggressive than the next. You can choose how much bite and the heat range.
1. No. You should "normally" get around 20k - 25k miles. Maybe more if you're easy on brakes; a bit less if you're hard on 'em.
2. WAY, WAY too much. You can get a full set of after-market slotted rotors (F & R), upgrade pads (F & R) and SS brake lines (F & R) for that price.
3. DIY. The Brembo's are designed for quick, easy pad changes.
2. WAY, WAY too much. You can get a full set of after-market slotted rotors (F & R), upgrade pads (F & R) and SS brake lines (F & R) for that price.
3. DIY. The Brembo's are designed for quick, easy pad changes.
thx all...i'll search for it.
and one comment...let say i really dunno how to drive...but it's just impossible to worn out the pads at 10K miles~
the dealer told me after inspection...my front pads are "super thin"
and one comment...let say i really dunno how to drive...but it's just impossible to worn out the pads at 10K miles~
the dealer told me after inspection...my front pads are "super thin"
1. No. You should "normally" get around 20k - 25k miles. Maybe more if you're easy on brakes; a bit less if you're hard on 'em.
2. WAY, WAY too much. You can get a full set of after-market slotted rotors (F & R), upgrade pads (F & R) and SS brake lines (F & R) for that price.
3. DIY. The Brembo's are designed for quick, easy pad changes.
2. WAY, WAY too much. You can get a full set of after-market slotted rotors (F & R), upgrade pads (F & R) and SS brake lines (F & R) for that price.
3. DIY. The Brembo's are designed for quick, easy pad changes.
yea, thats insane- changing at the 11k mark, I am at 32k and looking at changing them at the 35 mark- and from what I have read on this site, the reviews, I will be going with the CMAX Gold- brake dust FTL.
I got 27k on my first set of stock Brembos. You can definitely change the pads out yourself, but you can't resurface the rotors yourself.
Go somewhere that resurfaces the rotors while their mounted on the car. That's the best way to do them.
Don't listen to people that say you don't need to resurface the rotors, either. New pads need a even surface to bed them on. For best performance and longevity, new pads should be used on new/resurfaced rotors.
Go somewhere that resurfaces the rotors while their mounted on the car. That's the best way to do them.
Don't listen to people that say you don't need to resurface the rotors, either. New pads need a even surface to bed them on. For best performance and longevity, new pads should be used on new/resurfaced rotors.
I got 27k on my first set of stock Brembos. You can definitely change the pads out yourself, but you can't resurface the rotors yourself.
Go somewhere that resurfaces the rotors while their mounted on the car. That's the best way to do them.
Don't listen to people that say you don't need to resurface the rotors, either. New pads need a even surface to bed them on. For best performance and longevity, new pads should be used on new/resurfaced rotors.
Go somewhere that resurfaces the rotors while their mounted on the car. That's the best way to do them.
Don't listen to people that say you don't need to resurface the rotors, either. New pads need a even surface to bed them on. For best performance and longevity, new pads should be used on new/resurfaced rotors.
The only time rotors need to be resurfaced if they have heavy groves, or vibrate.
And to the OP, it's BRAKE not break.
Like I said, you "CAN" go without rotating them, but it's not advised.
You would think that would be a concern for people who race like I use too just slapping on different sets of pads on the same rotors for racing then back to street pads...and they require a lot more abuse. Again, what I said stands.
Being a racer doesn't mean you know everything.
I chase cones and road race regularly, in my UA7, as well.
Rotors will get grooves in them. Maybe not deep ones, but grooves nonetheless. Resurfacing them will allow new brake pads to bed in properly, with the maximum amount of surface area possible being in contact with each other. This will improve performance, as more pad surface is being utilized to actually stop the car. It'll also give more longevity to the brake pad, because of the even wear it'll get, as opposed to using a new pad on a non-rotated rotor. Grooves prevent even that small portion of the brake pad to be utilized.
It's simple.
The dealership in San Antonio sells the Brembos for $230. I did a search on ebay yesterday and found them a lot cheaper. So you may be better off buying them yourself to save some money. Here's one of the sellers on ebay that sells them for cheap.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...T#ht_500wt_956
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...T#ht_500wt_956
Agreed x 10! I hate and can't believe the amount of brake dust the stock pads create. I just bought my TL-S a few weeks ago and the dealership replaced the pads as part of the "certified process". I already can't wait to replace/upgrade.
I don't like machining rotors. It just removes material and makes them more prone to warping and fading under hard use.
Assuming they look ok, it's not necessary to replace them everytime. Break-in may take just a little longer but it beats paying for new rotors everytime.
There's nothing wrong with hitting them with some sandpaper but machining them should be a last resort. IMO it's much worse than doing nothing at all.
Assuming they look ok, it's not necessary to replace them everytime. Break-in may take just a little longer but it beats paying for new rotors everytime.
There's nothing wrong with hitting them with some sandpaper but machining them should be a last resort. IMO it's much worse than doing nothing at all.
I had the stock brembos on my 08 tl s also. I decided not to get another set of brembos, but instead got the EBC 2000 series, they occasionally make some noise but have great stopping power. They have lasted 15K and counting no problems yet. They are a lot cheaper then the brembos and to be honest i cant really tell a difference in stopping power. Only bad thing to these brakes is the amount of dust they make.
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