Supercharging the TL
06-10-2010, 06:42 PM
#721
Former Whyner
06-10-2010, 06:46 PM
#722
Three Wheelin'
if you still believe what you heard after what i said, then go straight to EBAY.com, and you will find a shitload of those chips..goodluck and let me know how it works out
06-10-2010, 07:19 PM
#724
Former Whyner
BACK ON TOPIC NOW.......Im pretty close to doing a dyno as is no tune or meth and stock injectors.
If all goes well I should do one in 2 weeks. Im hoping for 300-312 range. Im kinda confused about the encounter i had last tuesday but i walked (slowly) away from a srt-8 300c but the other one murdered me. Im thinking the first was modded but i couldnt tell.
I just love this SC so much!! The sound it makes and the surprised look on ppls faces when a 4 door sedan pulls away from them lol
If all goes well I should do one in 2 weeks. Im hoping for 300-312 range. Im kinda confused about the encounter i had last tuesday but i walked (slowly) away from a srt-8 300c but the other one murdered me. Im thinking the first was modded but i couldnt tell.
I just love this SC so much!! The sound it makes and the surprised look on ppls faces when a 4 door sedan pulls away from them lol
06-10-2010, 07:20 PM
#725
Former Whiner
06-10-2010, 08:15 PM
#726
Take a look at this: CLICK HERE
I tell you one thing though, that they may get people because most of the stuff is in their heads just like how some people add just a J-PIPE and say WOW I CAN FEEL IT. Honestly, you can but its nothing. Even an intake adds more sound than go. Im not bashing anyone in particular but its all in your head most of the time. I saw a thread last year that someone felt power with the third cat delete (race pipe).
ANYWAY back to topic, RONJON I would not get a tune until you get those items. Its worthless to spend $ to have to re spend it later.
06-10-2010, 09:14 PM
#728
Team Owner
HAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHahhaha I tell you some things that china makes to get money is ridiculous, its even scummier than stealing. Its just a box with two wires and a picture of a turbo.
I tell you one thing though, that they may get people because most of the stuff is in their heads just like how some people add just a J-PIPE and say WOW I CAN FEEL IT. Honestly, you can but its nothing. Even an intake adds more sound than go. Im not bashing anyone in particular but its all in your head most of the time. I saw a thread last year that someone felt power with the third cat delete (race pipe).
ANYWAY back to topic, RONJON I would not get a tune until you get those items. Its worthless to spend $ to have to re spend it later.
I tell you one thing though, that they may get people because most of the stuff is in their heads just like how some people add just a J-PIPE and say WOW I CAN FEEL IT. Honestly, you can but its nothing. Even an intake adds more sound than go. Im not bashing anyone in particular but its all in your head most of the time. I saw a thread last year that someone felt power with the third cat delete (race pipe).
ANYWAY back to topic, RONJON I would not get a tune until you get those items. Its worthless to spend $ to have to re spend it later.
06-10-2010, 09:32 PM
#729
Safety Car
Here is a good read about using tolulene and xylene.
How To - Use Toluene to boost your octane (click here)
How To - Use Toluene to boost your octane (click here)
06-11-2010, 01:35 AM
#730
Three Wheelin'
HAHAHHAHAHHAHAHHahhaha I tell you some things that china makes to get money is ridiculous, its even scummier than stealing. Its just a box with two wires and a picture of a turbo.
I tell you one thing though, that they may get people because most of the stuff is in their heads just like how some people add just a J-PIPE and say WOW I CAN FEEL IT. Honestly, you can but its nothing. Even an intake adds more sound than go. Im not bashing anyone in particular but its all in your head most of the time. I saw a thread last year that someone felt power with the third cat delete (race pipe).
ANYWAY back to topic, RONJON I would not get a tune until you get those items. Its worthless to spend $ to have to re spend it later.
I tell you one thing though, that they may get people because most of the stuff is in their heads just like how some people add just a J-PIPE and say WOW I CAN FEEL IT. Honestly, you can but its nothing. Even an intake adds more sound than go. Im not bashing anyone in particular but its all in your head most of the time. I saw a thread last year that someone felt power with the third cat delete (race pipe).
ANYWAY back to topic, RONJON I would not get a tune until you get those items. Its worthless to spend $ to have to re spend it later.
06-11-2010, 02:30 AM
#731
Oh shitt, thats right. To be honest by the time I installed the s/c it was november sometime and I left it in my car and then I blew my engine because for some reason my throttle body was cracked so my car has been off of the road for a while. I've been very busy and its weird that you came back because I was actually cleaning my car a couple days ago and saw it. I thought you disappeared because I haven't seen you around here. Sorry about that I wasn't trying to steal your FPR tool.
06-11-2010, 09:37 AM
#732
Three Wheelin'
Oh shitt, thats right. To be honest by the time I installed the s/c it was november sometime and I left it in my car and then I blew my engine because for some reason my throttle body was cracked so my car has been off of the road for a while. I've been very busy and its weird that you came back because I was actually cleaning my car a couple days ago and saw it. I thought you disappeared because I haven't seen you around here. Sorry about that I wasn't trying to steal your FPR tool.
06-11-2010, 01:02 PM
#736
I agree that most people feel a difference when they want to feel a difference regardless of whether it actually made a difference. However, look at the resistor between the two wires. This is how it works. It sends a modified signal to the computer to trick it. In the TL's case I think most of the "chips" go inline with the IAT sensor. Most likely they are there to trick the ECU into adding more timing and fuel. They do have the potential to add a couple hp and lbs of torque but with the TL's detonation prone factory tune it would likely make things worse. So to sum it up, one of these "chips" on 100 octane has the potential to add a couple hp but I would be surprised if it exceeded 5hp.
All those chips on ebay (and even some elsewhere) are inline resistors that trick the Intake Air Temp sensor into thinking it's seeing colder air. The ECU in turn adds timing and you get a few more hp, of course to the detriment of your motor and subsequent detonation. In other words, once again, you get what you pay for. Chips like this are dangerous and you're wasting your money.
06-11-2010, 01:06 PM
#737
Three Wheelin'
06-11-2010, 01:52 PM
#740
BACK ON TOPIC NOW.......Im pretty close to doing a dyno as is no tune or meth and stock injectors.
If all goes well I should do one in 2 weeks. Im hoping for 300-312 range. Im kinda confused about the encounter i had last tuesday but i walked (slowly) away from a srt-8 300c but the other one murdered me. Im thinking the first was modded but i couldnt tell.
I just love this SC so much!! The sound it makes and the surprised look on ppls faces when a 4 door sedan pulls away from them lol
If all goes well I should do one in 2 weeks. Im hoping for 300-312 range. Im kinda confused about the encounter i had last tuesday but i walked (slowly) away from a srt-8 300c but the other one murdered me. Im thinking the first was modded but i couldnt tell.
I just love this SC so much!! The sound it makes and the surprised look on ppls faces when a 4 door sedan pulls away from them lol
i dont want ur motor to blow up man but i say just be patient and when u get everything (tune, meth, possible f/ic, injectors) then do a dyno. or least got some meth in there first....not hating....just my $.02
06-11-2010, 02:11 PM
#741
takin care of Business in
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06-11-2010, 02:20 PM
#742
Safety Car
Many people say that the dyno is a lot more punishing than running wot on the street. Many times a car will survive on the street with a marginal tune. But when that car is put on the punishing dyno, the car breaks.
They say that it is because the dyno does not allow the car to rev (accelerate) as easy as the car would on the street. This is why it is so important to have a knowledgeable dyno operator... to not load-down the car on the dyno to excessively, more than the car would see on the street.
06-11-2010, 03:40 PM
#743
^^^yea, i have been reading up on other f/i apps/forums and it seems the dyno can be brutal and blow peoples motors up with an improper tune...im sure the case is even worse with no tune. still debating this s/c thing...if i do it, i will defintely have to get all the items to complete it for sure....
06-11-2010, 04:16 PM
#744
Three Wheelin'
I agree. I thought the same exact thing when I read the reply from RonJon.
Many people say that the dyno is a lot more punishing than running wot on the street. Many times a car will survive on the street with a marginal tune. But when that car is put on the punishing dyno, the car breaks.
They say that it is because the dyno does not allow the car to rev (accelerate) as easy as the car would on the street. This is why it is so important to have a knowledgeable dyno operator... to not load-down the car on the dyno to excessively, more than the car would see on the street.
Many people say that the dyno is a lot more punishing than running wot on the street. Many times a car will survive on the street with a marginal tune. But when that car is put on the punishing dyno, the car breaks.
They say that it is because the dyno does not allow the car to rev (accelerate) as easy as the car would on the street. This is why it is so important to have a knowledgeable dyno operator... to not load-down the car on the dyno to excessively, more than the car would see on the street.
the most punishing dyno would be the break dyno, which works by providing a stimulated load to the car to match the real life scenarios.
Inertia dyno, is less punishing, since it provides a fixed load (lower than the car's max output) calculation of time and speed of drums is what's used to determine hp
then you got the motoring dynos, which can be configured any which way you want, mainly used to create scenarios of speeds and loads like going downhill, or up and down the throttle
in the end, the inertia dyno is what would be the less punishing type of dyno on your car
06-11-2010, 04:34 PM
#745
Team Owner
since you mention this...thats why ppl end up seeing all kinds of numbers from dynos....
the most punishing dyno would be the break dyno, which works by providing a stimulated load to the car to match the real life scenarios.
Inertia dyno, is less punishing, since it provides a fixed load (lower than the car's max output) calculation of time and speed of drums is what's used to determine hp
then you got the motoring dynos, which can be configured any which way you want, mainly used to create scenarios of speeds and loads like going downhill, or up and down the throttle
in the end, the inertia dyno is what would be the less punishing type of dyno on your car
the most punishing dyno would be the break dyno, which works by providing a stimulated load to the car to match the real life scenarios.
Inertia dyno, is less punishing, since it provides a fixed load (lower than the car's max output) calculation of time and speed of drums is what's used to determine hp
then you got the motoring dynos, which can be configured any which way you want, mainly used to create scenarios of speeds and loads like going downhill, or up and down the throttle
in the end, the inertia dyno is what would be the less punishing type of dyno on your car
In fact, my father's GN only made 580rwhp the first pull because they could not load it down enough to make any real boost. If I remember right it would only pull 9psi that day on the dyno when we had it set for 24psi on the street. They got it right eventually but it was an eye opener for sure. The first 580 pull was embarassing because this car sounded so mean it drew a crowd and there was a lot of 1,000hp talk.
06-11-2010, 06:36 PM
#746
Former Whyner
06-11-2010, 06:51 PM
#747
I just want a baseline before the tune and meth. Im pretty sure that a simple 3 pull dyno will not blow my engine. I have been running the car hard for going on 7K miles and i feel comfortable with it now. I have great AFR no surges and the power is consistant. I just wanna see what its putting down. Trust me...im a pro lol
Correct me if im wrong but a tune with his internals now and add on the injectors/meth later is actually worse/same than adding the meth/injectors now on the base tune.
06-11-2010, 07:07 PM
#748
Former Whyner
They're not saying you cannot dyno your car. What we all mean is that to dyno your car will be about $75-$100 for 3 pulls to see your HP. Then to tune your car will be about $400-$600 depending upon where your getting your tune. Why waste that $ when a retune is needed for your car once you add meth and injectors? Not sure why anyone would pay $100 to see what he/shes putting down because really its all about driver and such so if you know what your can beat on the road base it on that to save yourself the $. Also put that $400-$600 that your going to tune your car to buy the injectors ($200) and meth ($330) and then get a tune down the road.
Correct me if im wrong but a tune with his internals now and add on the injectors/meth later is actually worse/same than adding the meth/injectors now on the base tune.
Correct me if im wrong but a tune with his internals now and add on the injectors/meth later is actually worse/same than adding the meth/injectors now on the base tune.
I hear you guys on that but we have a local shop that does dyno days $55 for 3 pulls...to me thats not much considering I drop that at dinner with the fam or a night at the bar
I already have 6 RSX-S injectors ready to go but no need for them yet. $200 for injectors ouch. Im saving for the FIC and meth and should have them mid july. Ill keep u guys posted of course :wink:
06-11-2010, 07:36 PM
#749
Team Owner
I just want a baseline before the tune and meth. Im pretty sure that a simple 3 pull dyno will not blow my engine. I have been running the car hard for going on 7K miles and i feel comfortable with it now. I have great AFR no surges and the power is consistant. I just wanna see what its putting down. Trust me...im a pro lol
06-11-2010, 10:52 PM
#752
Three Wheelin'
It's been my experience on DynoJets that they do not place as much load on the engine as the street does. Many cars including my own and my father's go leaner on the street than on the dyno.
In fact, my father's GN only made 580rwhp the first pull because they could not load it down enough to make any real boost. If I remember right it would only pull 9psi that day on the dyno when we had it set for 24psi on the street. They got it right eventually but it was an eye opener for sure. The first 580 pull was embarassing because this car sounded so mean it drew a crowd and there was a lot of 1,000hp talk.
In fact, my father's GN only made 580rwhp the first pull because they could not load it down enough to make any real boost. If I remember right it would only pull 9psi that day on the dyno when we had it set for 24psi on the street. They got it right eventually but it was an eye opener for sure. The first 580 pull was embarassing because this car sounded so mean it drew a crowd and there was a lot of 1,000hp talk.
When you hit the street you end up leaning out in a snap, and the tl isn't really setup internally to handle the brutality of detonation.
Come to think of it, like inaccuare mentioned the importance of dealing with an experienced tuner/dyno operator. Its very easy to set up ur car for failure after leaving the dyno.
06-11-2010, 11:37 PM
#753
Three Wheelin'
I forgot to mention...dynojets from my understanding measure hp based on roller acceleration and time , and its needs to know the motors rpm. So its based on these 2 factors, not load and friction.
So its not a brake-type dyno with a consistent load that measures power by brakes...oil, water, generator or blah blah blah.
In the end, a dynojet is safe enough for the car, given that the tuner knows what he's doing. But at the same time, like i said before, it can easily setup ur car for failure once on the street.
Posting from a phone suckssssss!!!!
So its not a brake-type dyno with a consistent load that measures power by brakes...oil, water, generator or blah blah blah.
In the end, a dynojet is safe enough for the car, given that the tuner knows what he's doing. But at the same time, like i said before, it can easily setup ur car for failure once on the street.
Posting from a phone suckssssss!!!!
06-11-2010, 11:52 PM
#754
Team Owner
I forgot to mention...dynojets from my understanding measure hp based on roller acceleration and time , and its needs to know the motors rpm. So its based on these 2 factors, not load and friction.
So its not a brake-type dyno with a consistent load that measures power by brakes...oil, water, generator or blah blah blah.
In the end, a dynojet is safe enough for the car, given that the tuner knows what he's doing. But at the same time, like i said before, it can easily setup ur car for failure once on the street.
Posting from a phone suckssssss!!!!
So its not a brake-type dyno with a consistent load that measures power by brakes...oil, water, generator or blah blah blah.
In the end, a dynojet is safe enough for the car, given that the tuner knows what he's doing. But at the same time, like i said before, it can easily setup ur car for failure once on the street.
Posting from a phone suckssssss!!!!
I completely agree with you. You can tune the car to the limit on the dyno for bragging rights but you need to back the tune off a little for the street. When my dad's GN would not build boost at first on the dynojet it was a very weird thing. It was pretty normal for the boost to go down when my car would spin third a little. In fact, this was usually my first indication the wheels were spinning. However, I never imagined the dyno could affect tune so drastically on a turbo car.
Honestly I use a wideband and monitor knock. I get it as close to perfect as I can on the street going by feel and then I hit the track and start chasing mph.
06-14-2010, 09:45 AM
#755
To start off, i have searched and read so much of the s/c crap that im goin insane!! Im sure ill still get shit on but here goes..
Im in the process of installing the CSC now. Everything is torn down and ready for placement of it. I am curious as to where i should wire in the afr gauge to the o2 and which one? Im not looking to make this a race car. I am keeping stock cats(may eventually look into the TL-S cats) and just running a CAI and atlp quads and using the stock CSC pulley wont ever use a HBP. I wont be taking the car to the track either. I came from the grand prix gtp s/c'd cars and loved the whine and additional power. Im just installing the s/c for this purpose. In other words im not trying to get as much possible power to the wheels and dont want to blow it up since its my DD. I just miss the s/c and want to treat it as if the TL came stock with one like the grand prix gtp did.
- With all that said, do i still want to run meth? (I know it cant hurt) anyone suggest a kit besides the snow stg 2 and where i can get the best deal?
- Since i have an 06 and will be using the ACM, do i just not install the wht/blk and blk/wht wires? (read this but iirc that was specific for the 04-05 didnt see it for the 06, may all be the same just want to be sure)
- Should i run a colder thermostat? (dont recall reading about anyone doing this)
- I also ordered the s/c oil from GM and have my syringes and tubes to suck out the old... where is the drain plug located? If its where i think it is, its a alan head bolt that is blk and sits flush near where the shaft attaches to s/c(towards the left of the shaft) is this correct, and should take all of the 2 bottles i got for a total of 8oz?
- Should i run an oil catch can to the rear valve cover vent rather than run it back into the intake? Just not sure i want to suck oil into the tb and directly into the s/c...
I will have a boost gauge of course... and was planning on hooking it up at the back of the upper IM at the rear hose... one to the left of the brake booster IIRC. Unless someone suggests a better location?
I appreciate your help!
Im in the process of installing the CSC now. Everything is torn down and ready for placement of it. I am curious as to where i should wire in the afr gauge to the o2 and which one? Im not looking to make this a race car. I am keeping stock cats(may eventually look into the TL-S cats) and just running a CAI and atlp quads and using the stock CSC pulley wont ever use a HBP. I wont be taking the car to the track either. I came from the grand prix gtp s/c'd cars and loved the whine and additional power. Im just installing the s/c for this purpose. In other words im not trying to get as much possible power to the wheels and dont want to blow it up since its my DD. I just miss the s/c and want to treat it as if the TL came stock with one like the grand prix gtp did.
- With all that said, do i still want to run meth? (I know it cant hurt) anyone suggest a kit besides the snow stg 2 and where i can get the best deal?
- Since i have an 06 and will be using the ACM, do i just not install the wht/blk and blk/wht wires? (read this but iirc that was specific for the 04-05 didnt see it for the 06, may all be the same just want to be sure)
- Should i run a colder thermostat? (dont recall reading about anyone doing this)
- I also ordered the s/c oil from GM and have my syringes and tubes to suck out the old... where is the drain plug located? If its where i think it is, its a alan head bolt that is blk and sits flush near where the shaft attaches to s/c(towards the left of the shaft) is this correct, and should take all of the 2 bottles i got for a total of 8oz?
- Should i run an oil catch can to the rear valve cover vent rather than run it back into the intake? Just not sure i want to suck oil into the tb and directly into the s/c...
I will have a boost gauge of course... and was planning on hooking it up at the back of the upper IM at the rear hose... one to the left of the brake booster IIRC. Unless someone suggests a better location?
I appreciate your help!
Last edited by Mjakaz09TL; 06-14-2010 at 09:48 AM.
06-14-2010, 01:17 PM
#756
Team Owner
To start off, i have searched and read so much of the s/c crap that im goin insane!! Im sure ill still get shit on but here goes..
Im in the process of installing the CSC now. Everything is torn down and ready for placement of it. I am curious as to where i should wire in the afr gauge to the o2 and which one? Im not looking to make this a race car. I am keeping stock cats(may eventually look into the TL-S cats) and just running a CAI and atlp quads and using the stock CSC pulley wont ever use a HBP. I wont be taking the car to the track either. I came from the grand prix gtp s/c'd cars and loved the whine and additional power. Im just installing the s/c for this purpose. In other words im not trying to get as much possible power to the wheels and dont want to blow it up since its my DD. I just miss the s/c and want to treat it as if the TL came stock with one like the grand prix gtp did.
- With all that said, do i still want to run meth? (I know it cant hurt) anyone suggest a kit besides the snow stg 2 and where i can get the best deal?
- Since i have an 06 and will be using the ACM, do i just not install the wht/blk and blk/wht wires? (read this but iirc that was specific for the 04-05 didnt see it for the 06, may all be the same just want to be sure)
- Should i run a colder thermostat? (dont recall reading about anyone doing this)
- I also ordered the s/c oil from GM and have my syringes and tubes to suck out the old... where is the drain plug located? If its where i think it is, its a alan head bolt that is blk and sits flush near where the shaft attaches to s/c(towards the left of the shaft) is this correct, and should take all of the 2 bottles i got for a total of 8oz?
- Should i run an oil catch can to the rear valve cover vent rather than run it back into the intake? Just not sure i want to suck oil into the tb and directly into the s/c...
I will have a boost gauge of course... and was planning on hooking it up at the back of the upper IM at the rear hose... one to the left of the brake booster IIRC. Unless someone suggests a better location?
I appreciate your help!
Im in the process of installing the CSC now. Everything is torn down and ready for placement of it. I am curious as to where i should wire in the afr gauge to the o2 and which one? Im not looking to make this a race car. I am keeping stock cats(may eventually look into the TL-S cats) and just running a CAI and atlp quads and using the stock CSC pulley wont ever use a HBP. I wont be taking the car to the track either. I came from the grand prix gtp s/c'd cars and loved the whine and additional power. Im just installing the s/c for this purpose. In other words im not trying to get as much possible power to the wheels and dont want to blow it up since its my DD. I just miss the s/c and want to treat it as if the TL came stock with one like the grand prix gtp did.
- With all that said, do i still want to run meth? (I know it cant hurt) anyone suggest a kit besides the snow stg 2 and where i can get the best deal?
- Since i have an 06 and will be using the ACM, do i just not install the wht/blk and blk/wht wires? (read this but iirc that was specific for the 04-05 didnt see it for the 06, may all be the same just want to be sure)
- Should i run a colder thermostat? (dont recall reading about anyone doing this)
- I also ordered the s/c oil from GM and have my syringes and tubes to suck out the old... where is the drain plug located? If its where i think it is, its a alan head bolt that is blk and sits flush near where the shaft attaches to s/c(towards the left of the shaft) is this correct, and should take all of the 2 bottles i got for a total of 8oz?
- Should i run an oil catch can to the rear valve cover vent rather than run it back into the intake? Just not sure i want to suck oil into the tb and directly into the s/c...
I will have a boost gauge of course... and was planning on hooking it up at the back of the upper IM at the rear hose... one to the left of the brake booster IIRC. Unless someone suggests a better location?
I appreciate your help!
The TL's supercharger kit uses primative tuning at best, on top of 11:1 compression and twig-like connecting rods. I wouldn't run the supercharger without meth injection to give you the safety margin that the kit does not. You're probably familiar with Julio's Razor kit from alkycontrol.com. Best kit out there.
The single most important guage, more important than the AFR, is a knock guage. Install one if you care about the engine living.
06-14-2010, 01:58 PM
#757
The TL's supercharger kit uses primative tuning at best, on top of 11:1 compression and twig-like connecting rods. I wouldn't run the supercharger without meth injection to give you the safety margin that the kit does not. You're probably familiar with Julio's Razor kit from alkycontrol.com. Best kit out there.
The single most important guage, more important than the AFR, is a knock guage. Install one if you care about the engine living.
The single most important guage, more important than the AFR, is a knock guage. Install one if you care about the engine living.
I also still am curious which o2 to wire up the afr and where to wire up the knock gauge.
Would you recommend the oil catch can as opposed to throwing oil into the tb and hence the s/c?
Thanks IHC
06-14-2010, 02:18 PM
#758
Safety Car
Check below link for Knock Monitor info -
Knock Monitor (click here)
What brand is your AFR gauge ? Nearly all AFR gauges come with a Bosch wideband sensor. The oem sensors are not wideband type. Oem sensors can not read the mixture in a linear fashion. The oem sensor reads as "too lean, perfect 14.7, too rich". Oem can not say how lean or how rich. Well, at least not in a linear fashion suitable for tuning purposes.
Knock Monitor (click here)
What brand is your AFR gauge ? Nearly all AFR gauges come with a Bosch wideband sensor. The oem sensors are not wideband type. Oem sensors can not read the mixture in a linear fashion. The oem sensor reads as "too lean, perfect 14.7, too rich". Oem can not say how lean or how rich. Well, at least not in a linear fashion suitable for tuning purposes.
06-14-2010, 03:57 PM
#759
A true A/F ratio needs to have a bung welded into the end of the J pipe where they collect into one or the third cat. Narrow band gauge is worthless and there are none made for our cars so to even get one of those working you will need to buy an O2 sensor and have it welded in.
I would recommend pre cats before you do the methanol, and ALWAYS use 93/94 if you get sunoco.
Knock sensor is good and you don't "need" new injectors but if you want to do it right, they are needed and I have a set of RSX-S injectors for sale if you are interested, PM me.
I would recommend pre cats before you do the methanol, and ALWAYS use 93/94 if you get sunoco.
Knock sensor is good and you don't "need" new injectors but if you want to do it right, they are needed and I have a set of RSX-S injectors for sale if you are interested, PM me.
Yeah i knew that about the GTP. Was just saying im not going to highly modify the car.. I had my GTP running a best of 12.4 in the 1/4.
I absolutely agree w u on the tuning being absolute trash. I do recall the alkycontrol system and may look into it.. do u recommend an afr and knock gauge set up and where i can get them?
I also still am curious which o2 to wire up the afr and where to wire up the knock gauge.
Would you recommend the oil catch can as opposed to throwing oil into the tb and hence the s/c?
Thanks IHC
I absolutely agree w u on the tuning being absolute trash. I do recall the alkycontrol system and may look into it.. do u recommend an afr and knock gauge set up and where i can get them?
I also still am curious which o2 to wire up the afr and where to wire up the knock gauge.
Would you recommend the oil catch can as opposed to throwing oil into the tb and hence the s/c?
Thanks IHC
06-14-2010, 04:33 PM
#760
Former Whyner
To start off, i have searched and read so much of the s/c crap that im goin insane!! Im sure ill still get shit on but here goes..
Im in the process of installing the CSC now. Everything is torn down and ready for placement of it. I am curious as to where i should wire in the afr gauge to the o2 and which one? Im not looking to make this a race car. I am keeping stock cats(may eventually look into the TL-S cats) and just running a CAI and atlp quads and using the stock CSC pulley wont ever use a HBP. I wont be taking the car to the track either. I came from the grand prix gtp s/c'd cars and loved the whine and additional power. Im just installing the s/c for this purpose. In other words im not trying to get as much possible power to the wheels and dont want to blow it up since its my DD. I just miss the s/c and want to treat it as if the TL came stock with one like the grand prix gtp did.
- With all that said, do i still want to run meth? (I know it cant hurt) anyone suggest a kit besides the snow stg 2 and where i can get the best deal?
- Since i have an 06 and will be using the ACM, do i just not install the wht/blk and blk/wht wires? (read this but iirc that was specific for the 04-05 didnt see it for the 06, may all be the same just want to be sure)
- Should i run a colder thermostat? (dont recall reading about anyone doing this)
- I also ordered the s/c oil from GM and have my syringes and tubes to suck out the old... where is the drain plug located? If its where i think it is, its a alan head bolt that is blk and sits flush near where the shaft attaches to s/c(towards the left of the shaft) is this correct, and should take all of the 2 bottles i got for a total of 8oz?
- Should i run an oil catch can to the rear valve cover vent rather than run it back into the intake? Just not sure i want to suck oil into the tb and directly into the s/c...
I will have a boost gauge of course... and was planning on hooking it up at the back of the upper IM at the rear hose... one to the left of the brake booster IIRC. Unless someone suggests a better location?
I appreciate your help!
Im in the process of installing the CSC now. Everything is torn down and ready for placement of it. I am curious as to where i should wire in the afr gauge to the o2 and which one? Im not looking to make this a race car. I am keeping stock cats(may eventually look into the TL-S cats) and just running a CAI and atlp quads and using the stock CSC pulley wont ever use a HBP. I wont be taking the car to the track either. I came from the grand prix gtp s/c'd cars and loved the whine and additional power. Im just installing the s/c for this purpose. In other words im not trying to get as much possible power to the wheels and dont want to blow it up since its my DD. I just miss the s/c and want to treat it as if the TL came stock with one like the grand prix gtp did.
- With all that said, do i still want to run meth? (I know it cant hurt) anyone suggest a kit besides the snow stg 2 and where i can get the best deal?
- Since i have an 06 and will be using the ACM, do i just not install the wht/blk and blk/wht wires? (read this but iirc that was specific for the 04-05 didnt see it for the 06, may all be the same just want to be sure)
- Should i run a colder thermostat? (dont recall reading about anyone doing this)
- I also ordered the s/c oil from GM and have my syringes and tubes to suck out the old... where is the drain plug located? If its where i think it is, its a alan head bolt that is blk and sits flush near where the shaft attaches to s/c(towards the left of the shaft) is this correct, and should take all of the 2 bottles i got for a total of 8oz?
- Should i run an oil catch can to the rear valve cover vent rather than run it back into the intake? Just not sure i want to suck oil into the tb and directly into the s/c...
I will have a boost gauge of course... and was planning on hooking it up at the back of the upper IM at the rear hose... one to the left of the brake booster IIRC. Unless someone suggests a better location?
I appreciate your help!