04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

that location is perfect, nothing wrong there.

something is screwy with your car. theres nothing there to clamp the voltage to the map sensor, so i cant see how your running those kind of af ratio's.


oh and whats up with all that rv gasket maker?

RonJonTL757

^i like orange

Inaccurate

I have read that the CT SC has a boost bypass built-in the SC. Could that boost bypass be stuck and not allowing it to build boost?

With no boost being made, this would explain the a/f and the lack of performance.

I hate cars

That's what I was thinking. With the super rich AF for seemingly no reason and no more power than it had before the SC, it's probably not getting any boost. I mean, even with a terrible tune, it should pull a car that it normally barely loses to.

c2pid

iTrader: (12)

is there a way to engage/disengage the bypass mode?

RonJonTL757

i went to a shop this morning and the guy said the same thing. he also said maybe a boost leak but he was too busy to check it out. i called another place and the guy said he could put a device that could measure boost and dyno it and check for a leak and check the bypass valve. gonna run me 100.00 though

tenzingsherpa

^^ its all good man 100 dollars is nothing compared to the cost of that supercharger u bought. do it cause u want to feel the pull, not just hear the whine. YAHTZEE!!!LOL

phee

iTrader: (5)

100 bucks is a good deal. Ask him to make sure everything is hooked up right and give him a tip

I hate cars

Go buy a cheap $20 boost guage and some cheap vacuum line and a "T". Tap into any line coming off of the intake manifold and run the guage into the car. You can just stick it through the window, no need to get fancy.

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

+1

or just put that 100 bucks towards a good boost gauge

RonJonTL757

^^ thanks guys i know that is the best thing to do but im gonna bring the car to them just to see why its not boosting.

I just got off the phone with Ryan from CT-E and he agreed that since im running the stock ecu there is noooo way im boosting cuz the car would go crazy as he put it and i guess that would explain why when i had the ACM on there I was reading 10.0 afr's because it was expecting boost and never got any.

also i asked him about any commom probs with the bypass valve and he said that there is a rubber diaphram that can go bad but it cost 79.00 to get another so PHEW...thats good. Thanks again everyone and ill let you know what happens tomorrow.

I hate cars

The bypass can be checked at home. It's just a simple rubber diaphram with vacuum/boost going to it and a spring on one side, just like a wastegate for a turbo.

The rubber can tear or leak and you won't get boost. Put your finger over the vacuum nipple and try and move it. If it moves, the diaphram is likely bad. You can also check the actuation if you have a vacuum pump and actually see it move.

The rest is visual and not much to check. Anything post blower that can leak is a potential problem. There's really not much to check.

Souljah

Hey ronjon, I was in the same boat as you.
I had a whine but no power increase! But mine came from my PS.

Seriously tho, good luck bro. Hope you get it all straighten out.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^

RonJonTL757

Soooo wasnt a good day talking to a very reputable mechanic today. He connected a boost gauge and sure enough no boost was showing on the gauge.

Then he zip tied the bypass valve shut and still no boost.
Then he took off the housing to see the bypass flap and it was shut so he said it has to be good and then he said that maybe the screws are worn and not pushing air thru

I tried calling CT-E but i swear their tech option was not available and everyone was busy or the mailbox was full

I mean im trying not to think thtat i was dooped into buying a blower that was broke becuase it has no more than 20K on it and i got it from a member on here, but i cant eliminate that.
The closest authorized CT-e dealer is in Richmond, va so i wonder if they can help figure something out, but as of right now i think I need to pull it and see if the screws are messed up.

I feel like absolute shit right now. I actually went home and went to sleep after i left the shop

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

^Damn bruh; sorry to hear that. Maybe you should try the shop in Richmond before pulling it.

RonJonTL757

Yeah i talked to Shad at Accuracy and he was a great help but i dont know if im sure i want to agree with him.

Im gonna call the shop in richmond but what i mostly will do is take a trip to see Paul in 2 weeks on my next 5 days off.

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Yeah Shad is pretty cool, but don't think he know much about TL's. Paul would probably be your best bet.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

The car should only be going into boost when under vacum. I thimk that must be your problem. Are you going to a shop that has experance with FI applications? I don't think the rotors could be worn out, they are used OEM on many cars and should hold up to 100k miles.
The whine is the sound of the blower compressing air, so if you have whine you have boost, it just must be leaking.

I know this is very frusterating but it will be resolved. There is some little problem that is keeping it from making boost. Is the belt slipping? Is your drive turning the rotors? I know it's something small.

jimij25

that sucks! sorry to hear that. your mechanic did drive the car to see if you build boost? ( not just idle and reven the motor) hows you idle? smooth or high, just dont make sence that the rotors wore so quick. where did he tap the boost gauge at?

RonJonTL757

Boost under vaccum i clearly dont know as much as you guys but I have never heard that before.

Yes this shop has been around since the early 2000's and i have been there before with my Turbo GSR. They build 10-11 sec cars all day long. He even recommeneded the FIC.

Belt is 2 weeks old but they belt that came with it was slipping and the PS was going nuts and whining like mentioned above.

As far as the drive turning the rotors im sure they are. I can hear them and i even posted a YT vid on a close up at idle and i think it sounds normal.

Yeah we drove it twice. He taped the T line on the back side of the manifold. Im sure that was the correct place as he is one of the best in our area.

I appreciate all the support fellas and trust me that i know its something simple and I will hit paul up soon and arrange somethning with him.
I dont feel comfortable with telling my wife that i spent 3K on a hunk of shit that makes a cool sound

djbonsu

iTrader: (3)

OUCh that sucks!...im sure the problem is very small. i sure am hoping dude didnt sell u some junk but then again the blower has been tested and ran for more than 100k. not sure how the seller could have broken it. keep us posted and best of luck to ya!

jimij25

i have a strong feeling its a boost leak!, i mean if you running that rich on a stock ecu and injectors , your map is calculating the air pressure to adjust fuel. but just not gettin air in to the motor ( just like turbo maf cars with atmoshere b.o.v) it calculates air to add fuel while in boost but as soon as you let off the throttle the air vents out of b.o.v but the fuel is already in the motor and you peg rich. im just tryn to help with some ideas. hope you get it solved.

RonJonTL757

Will do thanks



Yeah im leaving on the ACM for now and just gonna baby it till i get it looked at.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

The Comptech blower for the TL is set up strangely to aid in traction and be eaiser on the parts on the car. You can take the car all the way to redline without goiong into boost as long as you accelerate slowly. This is where the vacum comes into the picture, you have to get a set amount of vacum to get the by pass to close and give you boost.

Plus I think you need load to get resistance needed for vacum. Reving it out of gear may not provide the resistance needed to see boost.

Ps. I had the blower for 4 months before the wife noticed. ( slipped up one day getting on the freeway with her in the car, smoked the tires in second going up hill.) Tell her it was used so super cheap.

c2pid

iTrader: (12)

Slightly off topic...but I see a few of us are in the same boat. Mine is in for about 6 months now, and she only noticed the car is slighter "louder" [PCD + Jpipe + Exhaust]. I remember I had the BBK for about 4 months, before she noticed and asked "I didn't know those things were red". I just answered "yeah, it came that way" It's easier to ask for forgiveness than for permission. Sure don't wanna put up with the whole day.

RonJon: hang in there dude, it's one of those "little things" that comes with the package. It will be all good!

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

sorry about your problems....

first off, im 100% sure your problem is caused by worn rotors, thats rediculous. so worn to where it stays in vacuum the whole way till redline??

secondly, did you drive the car and observe the boost gauge? or just sitting there revving with no load? (which i dont reccommend)


third, which way did you ziptie the bypass valve? i ask this cause some people get confused of which way is open and shut, so post a pic please and we can get to the bottom of this.




no, the whine is the patent sound made by the screws in a roots charger and has nothing to do with compressed air. with the bypass valve stuck open, the whine is actually LOUDER, then with it closed.

hi-speed, ziptie your bypass valve open and drive around the block, you'll see how much louder the whine is

RonJonTL757

What do you mean by worn rotors?
Yes i was beside him in the passenger seat and in 2nd pushing to about 5.5K the gauge was reading 0 then it would see vaccum pressure like normal.

He ziptied it in a way that the valve couldnt move and if im not mistaken it forced the bypass closed as when he took the inlet side off i could see the half-dollar sized plate (flap) closed.

hope that helps

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

Sorry to telling you this but it seems to me that the rotors or the rotor plate is gone. When the sc is ran without oil the bearings start the process and then bye bye sc. If that is the case it's $600 for new rotors, but they you will have a new s/c. I remember when my jetski ate up a rock and bent the prop, the prop would still spin but since it wasn't flush with the walls it had no suction so it went nowhere. Sounds like a similar case of bad rotors, which is why you have the noise but no go. I knew there was something wrong wheb you said it really added no power when you first put it on. It makes the tl NOTICABLY faster.

I hate cars

If this thing is in the process of a bearing/rotor failure you probably don't want to run it anymore than you have to. The metal from the wearing rotors has to go somewhere and I think we know where it will go. Many rotors have a teflon coating, once this is worn off they will quickly kill themselves. Still, it's not impossible the cause is from worn rotors but they have to be pretty bad to get no boost.

I would go over the bypass one more time.

The only thing that makes me think it may not be a boost leak is the throttlebody still throttles the car ok. You would have a very high idle because you would have a vacuum leak when you have the throttle closed. It's not too uncommon to have a cut in a silicone coupler that seals up under vacuum and blows out under boost. A loose hose clamp can do the same thing. With the engine running, push or wiggle every connection and see if it makes a change in the idle.

It really sucks we don't have a MAF sensor. You could check the reading to see if the blower is pulling in 350hp worth of air or 250hp worth of air.

I hate cars

Only thing is the MAP is in the manifold as is the tap point for the boost guage.

To the OP, don't forget running it super rich for a long time can hurt things. You will end up washing down the cylinders. Definately change you oil soon. Your catalytic convertors are going to hate you too.

RonJonTL757

Soudn good IHC, but im just gonna drive like a little bitch until i go see Paul next weekend.

phee

iTrader: (5)

u found oil in your driveway and now u arent making boost. anyone connecting the dots? it may be failure due to low lubricant or a leak

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

How is the oil changed? Maybe a bolt was loose during install and it dripped out and now his rotors are gone? How could that happen so far down install..something is weird.

ussi

iTrader: (1)

^Well there's really only one place the s/c oil can come out of, its a hex bolt on the shaft side. I don't think he attempted to change it though...

Inaccurate

^ Correction. There is really only one designed place....

But, then there are places not designed, such as cracked case, loose end plates, etc.

RonJonTL757

No i confirmed this morning that the oil leak is from my motor as the oil was on the bottom line.............SO GREAT now all of a sudden i have an oil leak

I have been stupid busy with work and my next day off is Monday so i will take the car to the hobby shop and see WTF is going on under there. Then off to Paul's next weekend.

Souljah

Was there something along the install that could have caused any problems?
I plan on installing it in my garage with a buddy.

RonJonTL757

Naw man the install was pretty straight forward. My buddy is gonna help me pull th eblower tomorrow to check the cam seal and hope its leaking from there. I cant undertand why else im leaking oil.

If you need any help on the install just let me know.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I don't think so, everything should be sealed as far as the blower. I also don't see how the rotors could be bad, unless they were hitting and seems like you would hear that.