SS Braided Clutch Hose review, installation and pics!
11-02-2009, 10:47 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
SS Braided Clutch Hose review, installation and pics!
As some of you know, I had the privilege to get a sample of the Fastline SS Braided clutch hose from Marcus at Mr.Heeltoe.
This thing is just $30
It replaces the factory rubber hose in the clutch system. (I bet some of you weren't even aware that there was such thing
)
In a nutshell, there's a rubber hose that connects the 2 hard lines, one coming from the clutch reservoir, and the other from the slave cylinder.
This can be compared to the hoses used in the brake lines. Whoever has done the SS brake lines knows exactly how it is.
It's located behind the transmission towards the firewall, and can be seen looking down from where the strut bar runs.
My first impression was that the build quality of the hose was really solid.
I noticed a consistent pedal feel from half way down to the floorboard.
The hose removed any spongy feel I would get through the pedal travel. IMHO, I think this is a "MUST DO" mod, and for $30 you can't go wrong.
Easy and simple to install, and also pretty cheap! I highly recommend it.
This is especially true for anyone who has an aftermarket clutch with a heavy PP, will feel a bigger difference.
And I honestly say, everyone else with stock clutch, just get rid of the factory rubber hose and replace it with this SS Braided Hose.
Installation took about 30 mins + 20 mins to bleed the clutch.
It is fairly easy to do.
Tools needed: 10mm, 12mm sockets + ratchet + extension
8mm,10mm open wrench (flare nut wrench would be ideal)
17mm open wrench
Flat screwdriver
WD40
Brake fluid
After removing all the plastic covers surrounding the strut bar, You'll need to remove the strut bar. Start by the removing the 10mm bolts shown in the 2 pictures below. 10mm bolts holding the APP box (pass side), wire harness and fuse box (driver's side)
Now remove the 12mm bolts holding the strut bar down.
After removing all bolts, twist and wiggle the bar, and off it comes.
Looking down on the back of the tranny towards the firewall, notice the black hose curved in the U shape, both ends upwards. That's what we're changing.
Loosen up the hardlines using the 10mm wrench. (red arrows)
Then pull up the hard lines, just to get them outta the hose.
Fluid is going to leak and drip down, so you'll have to figure out a way on how you wanna deal with that. I let mine just drip down on the ground.
With the flat screwdriver as shown in the pic, slowly twist it and slide out the square metal clips holding the hose.
Installing the new line from here on should be easy.
First clip the SS hose on the holding brackets, then insert the hard lines.
This time you'll need to use the 17mm wrench to hold the SS hose fittings, while you tighten the hard lines.
This is looking at the hoses side by side.
Finally, we need to bleed the clutch!
There's instructions on this on the "Check valve removal" Thread, but I'll try and include them here too.
Doing this with another person is ideal. But if you have no one around, a stick that you can jam against the seat holding the clutch pedal down, would be needed.
Make sure you keep sufficient fluid in the clutch reservoir throughout the process, otherwise you'll have to do it all over again, if fluid runs out and system sucks in air.
This is the bleed off valve on the slave cylinder. slave cylinder is located between the tranny and the radiator. It can be seen just looking down from above.
With the reservoir topped off, pump the clutch pedal full strokes for about 10-12 times. (dont have to really count, just pump the thing)
After pumping for about 10-12 times, hold the pedal to the floor.
While holding the pedal to the floor, you'll have to loosen up the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and let any build up pressure squirt out fluid along with air, then tighten the bleed valve.
1-Pump the clutch pedal again 10 times, hold it down to the floor,
2-Loosen up the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and let fluid squirt out.
3-Re-tighten the bleed valve.
Keep repeating these steps, untill you get full pedal, to the point where there's barely any dead play from the top of the pedal.
While you do this, it will seem like nothing's working, but you need to do the steps a few times before you start to build pressure.
Do this while maintaining sufficient fluid in the reservoir to avoid air getting in the system again.
Hope I broke it down to the best I could. Whoever does this and finds other more efficient ways or anything at all, please feel free to add.
This thing is just $30
It replaces the factory rubber hose in the clutch system. (I bet some of you weren't even aware that there was such thing
)In a nutshell, there's a rubber hose that connects the 2 hard lines, one coming from the clutch reservoir, and the other from the slave cylinder.
This can be compared to the hoses used in the brake lines. Whoever has done the SS brake lines knows exactly how it is.
It's located behind the transmission towards the firewall, and can be seen looking down from where the strut bar runs.
My first impression was that the build quality of the hose was really solid.
I noticed a consistent pedal feel from half way down to the floorboard.
The hose removed any spongy feel I would get through the pedal travel. IMHO, I think this is a "MUST DO" mod, and for $30 you can't go wrong.
Easy and simple to install, and also pretty cheap! I highly recommend it.
This is especially true for anyone who has an aftermarket clutch with a heavy PP, will feel a bigger difference.
And I honestly say, everyone else with stock clutch, just get rid of the factory rubber hose and replace it with this SS Braided Hose.
Installation took about 30 mins + 20 mins to bleed the clutch.
It is fairly easy to do.
Tools needed: 10mm, 12mm sockets + ratchet + extension
8mm,10mm open wrench (flare nut wrench would be ideal)
17mm open wrench
Flat screwdriver
WD40
Brake fluid
After removing all the plastic covers surrounding the strut bar, You'll need to remove the strut bar. Start by the removing the 10mm bolts shown in the 2 pictures below. 10mm bolts holding the APP box (pass side), wire harness and fuse box (driver's side)
Now remove the 12mm bolts holding the strut bar down.
After removing all bolts, twist and wiggle the bar, and off it comes.
Looking down on the back of the tranny towards the firewall, notice the black hose curved in the U shape, both ends upwards. That's what we're changing.
Loosen up the hardlines using the 10mm wrench. (red arrows)
Then pull up the hard lines, just to get them outta the hose.
Fluid is going to leak and drip down, so you'll have to figure out a way on how you wanna deal with that. I let mine just drip down on the ground.
With the flat screwdriver as shown in the pic, slowly twist it and slide out the square metal clips holding the hose.
Installing the new line from here on should be easy.
First clip the SS hose on the holding brackets, then insert the hard lines.
This time you'll need to use the 17mm wrench to hold the SS hose fittings, while you tighten the hard lines.
This is looking at the hoses side by side.
Finally, we need to bleed the clutch!
There's instructions on this on the "Check valve removal" Thread, but I'll try and include them here too.
Doing this with another person is ideal. But if you have no one around, a stick that you can jam against the seat holding the clutch pedal down, would be needed.
Make sure you keep sufficient fluid in the clutch reservoir throughout the process, otherwise you'll have to do it all over again, if fluid runs out and system sucks in air.
This is the bleed off valve on the slave cylinder. slave cylinder is located between the tranny and the radiator. It can be seen just looking down from above.
With the reservoir topped off, pump the clutch pedal full strokes for about 10-12 times. (dont have to really count, just pump the thing)
After pumping for about 10-12 times, hold the pedal to the floor.
While holding the pedal to the floor, you'll have to loosen up the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and let any build up pressure squirt out fluid along with air, then tighten the bleed valve.
1-Pump the clutch pedal again 10 times, hold it down to the floor,
2-Loosen up the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and let fluid squirt out.
3-Re-tighten the bleed valve.
Keep repeating these steps, untill you get full pedal, to the point where there's barely any dead play from the top of the pedal.
While you do this, it will seem like nothing's working, but you need to do the steps a few times before you start to build pressure.
Do this while maintaining sufficient fluid in the reservoir to avoid air getting in the system again.
Hope I broke it down to the best I could. Whoever does this and finds other more efficient ways or anything at all, please feel free to add.
Last edited by Opel; 11-02-2009 at 10:50 PM.
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screaminz28 (10-04-2014)
11-03-2009, 12:02 AM
#2
Rev High; Drive Happy
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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Awesome. Thanks for the review and DIY.
I'm probably going to bundle this with a Comptech SS and find a Corsport Shifter Bushings [and Synchromesh fluid of course]
I'm probably going to bundle this with a Comptech SS and find a Corsport Shifter Bushings [and Synchromesh fluid of course]
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11-03-2009, 03:18 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Ahahaha the axle..yeah its pretty damn messy down there lol...im not gonna bother with the boot. I'll change the whole axle.
11-04-2009, 10:08 AM
#11
Safety Car
Even though I am 5AT, I want to say "Thank you Opel!"
I know how time consuming it is to do a post like this one. Thanks for contributing your knowledge to our AcurazineVille community.
I know how time consuming it is to do a post like this one. Thanks for contributing your knowledge to our AcurazineVille community.
11-04-2009, 04:04 PM
#15
just did this today as well! it really smoothed out the clutch pedal travel. cannot go wrong with this mod for the price.
i still have some adjusting to play around with too (now the clutch disengages lower to the floor and i have to bring it back up a little)
i still have some adjusting to play around with too (now the clutch disengages lower to the floor and i have to bring it back up a little)
11-05-2009, 05:11 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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