From my understanding, the stock weight of the 04-06 Acura TL is 3,480 LBS.

This is my initial weigh in ...


The scale is +/-20 pounds due to the massive size of the scale, but is usually dead on. This number isn't too high because I have a MASSIVE aftermarket sub installed which hits 138 db, some home supplies in my rear seats, and me in the drivers seat. Over the next few days I am going to see exactly how light I can make my tl and I will post pictures once I have completed my project.

Anyone else with similar weights?

 

You should factor in on how much gasoline is in your tank.

P.S. Don't forget to top off your blinker fluid before the next weigh-in.

 

I've lightened my car about 70lbs.

 

Don't forget your own weight also.

 

cheeseburgers

 

 

LMAO Yeah that Blinker Fluid is Killa at weigh ins

 

Ah, forgot that one. Thanks for the input.

 

Welcome to the diet club! Your goal is roughly 1060lbs lol minus your weight of course.


Just weighed mine last week and with gas and some small odds and ends it was just over 2700lbs. So, do work son!

 

Oh and your stock weight can be figured out here. Depends on trans/navi/etc.

http://www.new-cars.com/2004/acura/acura-tl-specs.html

 

3582 lb (1625 kg) / 3489 lb (1583 kg) would be the Navi 04-TL

I was reading on the compression ratio, and I thought our engine was 11.5:1 not 11.0:1. Small number but credible?

 

11:1

3489lbs would be navi with six speed

 

SHEESH!!

 

Track car man. Track car. lol

 

Exercise your TL more and go to a low carb car diet....

 

If you haven't already, check out the TL Diet Thread while you're on vacation:


https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/m-010-putting-tl-diet-update-links-post-1-a-610974/

 

+1
he is the man when it comes to diet

 

Did the OP get banned???

Mine weighed 3,920 with me in it. I weighed 220 at that time so 3,700lbs. That was with two 12W6s in a large bandpass box, a couple amps, a little sound deadening, 1/4 tank of gas, and spare, jack, and stock sub removed.

With the new 15s and no enclosure, the entire setup weighs only 45lbs which is about 60lbs lighter than the old setup.

I was still shocked that my TL weighs 3,900lbs in daily driver trim.

Edit: Now that I think about it, I would be lucky if I broke even with all of the additional sound deadening.

 

^ yeah op got banned lol

 

Figure stock was 3482 for me, and I've shaved off roughly 100 lbs with bolt ons and other minor trimming like engine covers, underside trans shield, rear mats, spare, tools. Full exhaust was a huge savings. Plus I travel light like Innacurate. I'm only 160 soaking wet, so I'd say ~3550 full tank, 3460 quarter tank. I'd like to weigh it some time.

I wish I'd weighed the stock/aftermarket suspension, now that I think about it. Anyone want to venture a guess? Maybe 3-4 lbs per corner lighter with the Konis/H&R's?

 

You might be disappointed. I thought mine would come out close to stock. I added some audio gear but took out the spare, tools, and the BBK saved 8lbs per corner. Then again, a 24mm vs 17mm rsb, and the 28mm solid fsb is significantly heavier than the hollow 25mm. I would be curious as to what yours weighs.

 

I'm probably gonna order the Progress RSB shortly, so that'll add a little over the stock 20mm. But otherwise, going off Innacurate's weights of the pulley, cai, cats, j pipe, mid muffler, resonator, spare and tools, engine covers etc, I'm fairly sure I'm close to 100 lbs lighter than stock, (I estimated ~12 lbs for the suspension) but then my tires are a little heavier than the stock Turanzas though.

I've gotta get it a scale!

 

Wow OP banned?! lol Guess this diet stuff isn't for everyone! I'm pretty positive I could get mine to 2600 but I'm to the point now where weight loss starts coming at a pretty hefty price. Oh well.... It'll get there eventually.

 

Just to clarify, OP wasn't banned for anything in this thread. There were some, uhhh ..... issues .... in the Off-Topic forums.

 

oh yeah, I kinda assumed that. just making a funny lol

 

Im going to upgrade my FSB soon. I have two options. 6MT 27.2mm hallow..or..TL-S 27.2mm solid. I know weight reduction is important but why does the TL-S us a solid bar? If weight reduction is important wouldn't TL-S owners want to install the 6MT bar???

The only thing i can think of is there would be less flex in the solid bar..but whats the better better to have...weight reduction or less sway bar flex?? whats your opinions?

Idk, Im really hung up on this and haven't been able to get any answers or ideas...

 

The weight would be a mute point on the sway bar because a it would help the handling more than the weight would hurt anything. Also its low and centrally located.

Are you sure you really need that much of a sway bar upgrade in the first place?

 

it would add far more handling characteristics than weight.

 

Yeah...I have a 5at so i feel my original sway bars are not up to par with my style of driving and my coils..i like the feeling of a tight suspension. also my lil theory is...my damping is set real hi and thats great for the freeway but low speed street driving its not that pleasant...i figure the stiffer sway bars will allow me to turn the damping down, and still enjoy the freeway, even more so, while giving me a easier ride on the streets.

i have the progress rsb coming soon i'm going to install it. and try both settings first. but just from research it sounds like i'm going to have oversteer, even more then i already have after i put the coils in. plus i enjoy working on my car and feeling improvements and i decided to handle suspension first before moving on to anything else

 

thanks to both you guys..even though your replyes were short, that's all i needed to hear. I've asked this question many times on here and nobody has givin me answers. thanks again

 

It's kind of the opposite on the damping. Damping should not be used to control body roll, damping only determines how long it takes for the car to take a set in the corners. It should be matched with spring rate and weight of the car. The purpose is to control the spring and the body of the car. Increase spring rate and you have to increase the damping too. Too much damping will only make the ride uncomfortable but it won't make the car handle better. It will feel a little tighter but won't do anything for you in reality. In fact, too much damping will make the car skip around over bumps and if bad enough it can "jack down" under braking over bumps.

When you add the stiffer swaybars you're going to need more damping since you're effectively increasing the spring rate. The shock has to control the swaybar too since the swaybar is a spring... This is not a bad thing, if you were to leave your settings where they are now and add the swaybar it will feel like you softened up the damping.

Back when I had stock springs I could only run my Konis 1/2 turn from full soft or they were too stiff and harsh. Fast forward to a-spec front, a very high rate in the rear, and both swaybars significantly larger than stock and at 3 turns from soft, 1 turn from full stiff they feel normal. The extra spring rate basically makes the shocks feel softer at a given setting.

 

^this is good info..i cant wait to test it all out myself!