Rooster415's Build Thread.
Dude, this is a MUST. And I am Not joking around. I don't know what planet that everyone else lives on, but on the planet that I live on, the pulley was a milestone (actually my first milestone) to creating what I got today.
No thinking about it. No fear mongering. No looking back. Just do it. The pulley is an integral component to the TL Diet.
No thinking about it. No fear mongering. No looking back. Just do it. The pulley is an integral component to the TL Diet.
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From: san francisco
^ i like
Dude, this is a MUST. And I am Not joking around. I don't know what planet that everyone else lives on, but on the planet that I live on, the pulley was a milestone (actually my first milestone) to creating what I got today.
No thinking about it. No fear mongering. No looking back. Just do it. The pulley is an integral component to the TL Diet.
No thinking about it. No fear mongering. No looking back. Just do it. The pulley is an integral component to the TL Diet.
damn right ! haha
Safety Car
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From: Houston, Texas
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 47
From: NYC
I used this method a few years ago, and jumped about 4 teeth on the timing belt (front head cam gear) .... I still didn't get it after a few tries, and finally decided to leave it alone and get the tool.
But of course, i decided to stop a little too late... When i tried to start the car, it wouldn't start...after 2 hrs of trying to figure out why it wouldn't start, it popped in my head to check the timing....sure enough, it had jumped by 4 teeth.
Luckily, I had my timing belt covers off, for other reasons, So it wasn't too hard for me to fix this at 10 pm with a flash light on a cold late november evening lol.
Just something to keep in mind.
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From: san francisco
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 444
Likes: 35
From: san francisco
While this is a neat trick....it can actually make matters much MUCH worse for you. I think I mentioned this before a while back.
I used this method a few years ago, and jumped about 4 teeth on the timing belt (front head cam gear) .... I still didn't get it after a few tries, and finally decided to leave it alone and get the tool.
But of course, i decided to stop a little too late... When i tried to start the car, it wouldn't start...after 2 hrs of trying to figure out why it wouldn't start, it popped in my head to check the timing....sure enough, it had jumped by 4 teeth.
Luckily, I had my timing belt covers off, for other reasons, So it wasn't too hard for me to fix this at 10 pm with a flash light on a cold late november evening lol.
Just something to keep in mind.
I used this method a few years ago, and jumped about 4 teeth on the timing belt (front head cam gear) .... I still didn't get it after a few tries, and finally decided to leave it alone and get the tool.
But of course, i decided to stop a little too late... When i tried to start the car, it wouldn't start...after 2 hrs of trying to figure out why it wouldn't start, it popped in my head to check the timing....sure enough, it had jumped by 4 teeth.
Luckily, I had my timing belt covers off, for other reasons, So it wasn't too hard for me to fix this at 10 pm with a flash light on a cold late november evening lol.
Just something to keep in mind.
While this is a neat trick....it can actually make matters much MUCH worse for you. I think I mentioned this before a while back.
I used this method a few years ago, and jumped about 4 teeth on the timing belt (front head cam gear) .... I still didn't get it after a few tries, and finally decided to leave it alone and get the tool.
But of course, i decided to stop a little too late... When i tried to start the car, it wouldn't start...after 2 hrs of trying to figure out why it wouldn't start, it popped in my head to check the timing....sure enough, it had jumped by 4 teeth.
Luckily, I had my timing belt covers off, for other reasons, So it wasn't too hard for me to fix this at 10 pm with a flash light on a cold late november evening lol.
Just something to keep in mind.
I used this method a few years ago, and jumped about 4 teeth on the timing belt (front head cam gear) .... I still didn't get it after a few tries, and finally decided to leave it alone and get the tool.
But of course, i decided to stop a little too late... When i tried to start the car, it wouldn't start...after 2 hrs of trying to figure out why it wouldn't start, it popped in my head to check the timing....sure enough, it had jumped by 4 teeth.
Luckily, I had my timing belt covers off, for other reasons, So it wasn't too hard for me to fix this at 10 pm with a flash light on a cold late november evening lol.
Just something to keep in mind.
I tried the tool they sell and that failed miserably. I tried my air tools too, and that didnt work either.
yeah i dont plan on putting the pulley in myself. dont know how to put timing belt back on and stuff. goign to either bring it to a mechanic or let aznboi do it. i dont wanna fuk anything up. planning to hit up kragen or o reilly or whaetver they call it now and get the tool. and make my life easier if azn boi wants to help me put it in.
The crank pulley only touches the accessory belt (a/c, power steering and alternator).
Last edited by civicdrivr; May 12, 2012 at 10:07 PM.
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Thats very odd that it would skip teeth like that. It sounds to me like there was another issue in that instance, because if you think about it, youre not turning the engine in any other way then if it were running. Was the belt worn? Was the tensioner weak? I guess what Im asking is how did blipping the starter cause it to jump teeth on the front cam gear? The starter is on the flywheel, which is on the crank, which is where the breaker bar is. If the bolt was so tight the starter couldnt break it loose, the crank and therefore both cams would not spin.
I tried the tool they sell and that failed miserably. I tried my air tools too, and that didnt work either.
Just to clear this up, youre not touching the timing belt at all.
The crank pulley only touches the accessory belt (a/c, power steering and alternator).
I tried the tool they sell and that failed miserably. I tried my air tools too, and that didnt work either.
Just to clear this up, youre not touching the timing belt at all.
The crank pulley only touches the accessory belt (a/c, power steering and alternator).
The light weight crank pulley doesnt make power, it just frees up power and lets the engine rev a bit easier. I put it on back when I still had the stock flywheel and even then I could still feel a difference in throttle response. You may see a few hp on the dyno if you're lucky.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,360
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From: NYC
Thats very odd that it would skip teeth like that. It sounds to me like there was another issue in that instance, because if you think about it, youre not turning the engine in any other way then if it were running. Was the belt worn? Was the tensioner weak? I guess what Im asking is how did blipping the starter cause it to jump teeth on the front cam gear? The starter is on the flywheel, which is on the crank, which is where the breaker bar is. If the bolt was so tight the starter couldnt break it loose, the crank and therefore both cams would not spin.
I tried the tool they sell and that failed miserably. I tried my air tools too, and that didnt work either.
Just to clear this up, youre not touching the timing belt at all.
The crank pulley only touches the accessory belt (a/c, power steering and alternator).
I tried the tool they sell and that failed miserably. I tried my air tools too, and that didnt work either.
Just to clear this up, youre not touching the timing belt at all.
The crank pulley only touches the accessory belt (a/c, power steering and alternator).
If you've ever tried to spin a camshaft on a fully assembled head, you'll know what I'm talking about. Or if you've done a timing belt.
The sudden stop of the crank while camshaft is spinning which doesn't like to sit in one spot, but rather spring back or forth on the position where valves are shut.
There was no other issues. The heads had not been off prior to that. No timing belt was done on the car. Tensioner was fine, belt was tight enough.
Just to point this out....The timing belt isn't as tight as it gets the way most know of, which is by the tensioner everyone knows of....there is in fact another tensioner on the other side above the crank which works with oil pressure. At high RPM, the belt gets tighter. So it is not too odd that I jumped a few teeth. The position of the camshafts and crank at the time had to be at a point where it was more prone to this happening, so I don't expect it to happen every time someone does something like this. I guess I had perfect timing lol. It is after all a belt and not a chain, so it does stretch. Anyway....
The tool is the only way I could loosen that bolt, everytime I had to. I don't know why it wouldn't work for anyone else. I'm not one to do every single thing by the book, but this is one of those things where it was the only way
To give my honest take on this.... you will be *making* more because you expect it, than you actually do in reality. This is often the case with things like that.
Idk if I made much sense with what I said, but I'm just saying be prepared not to be WOWed
i have the honda crank tool if you want to do it the hardway also. lol
I also tried spinning the crank by hand. It spins super easy when the sparks are out. Harder when the spark are in, but not impossible. I did something stupid last time. I span it while the car was in gear. I wAS LIKE why is it so F*kin hard. lol
I also tried spinning the crank by hand. It spins super easy when the sparks are out. Harder when the spark are in, but not impossible. I did something stupid last time. I span it while the car was in gear. I wAS LIKE why is it so F*kin hard. lol
Last edited by thisaznboi88; May 13, 2012 at 01:31 AM.
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From: san francisco
i have the honda crank tool if you want to do it the hardway also. lol
I also tried spinning the crank by hand. It spins super easy when the sparks are out. Harder when the spark are in, but not impossible. I did something stupid last time. I span it while the car was in gear. I wAS LIKE why is it so F*kin hard. lol
I also tried spinning the crank by hand. It spins super easy when the sparks are out. Harder when the spark are in, but not impossible. I did something stupid last time. I span it while the car was in gear. I wAS LIKE why is it so F*kin hard. lol
help me change it the same day ?
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,360
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From: NYC
i have the honda crank tool if you want to do it the hardway also. lol
I also tried spinning the crank by hand. It spins super easy when the sparks are out. Harder when the spark are in, but not impossible. I did something stupid last time. I span it while the car was in gear. I wAS LIKE why is it so F*kin hard. lol
I also tried spinning the crank by hand. It spins super easy when the sparks are out. Harder when the spark are in, but not impossible. I did something stupid last time. I span it while the car was in gear. I wAS LIKE why is it so F*kin hard. lol
maybe its just me, but I've never had a problem using it
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well theres the diy i was reading about. and it seems easier with the tool so thanks opel and thanks aznboi please bring the tool.!
and ihave a question for all of you guys. i have a little spare cash. and im planning to get the 07 type s cams and the bisimoto vtec springs http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?...roducts_id=291 .. and when im ready im going to send in my base cams or the type s cams to get them reground by bisimoto(stage 2) . so i would already have the springs and retainers ready and my car wont have any down time ?. or should i just wait and just do everything at one time ?
and thanks aznboi please bring the tool.! and ihave a question for all of you guys. i have a little spare cash. and im planning to get the 07 type s cams and the bisimoto vtec springs http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?...roducts_id=291 .. and when im ready im going to send in my base cams or the type s cams to get them reground by bisimoto(stage 2) . so i would already have the springs and retainers ready and my car wont have any down time ?. or should i just wait and just do everything at one time ?
make sure you have 2 breaker bar and a 3ft pole extension. Me and my friend did it the hard way and we both had to sit on the bar to break it loose. so it was like 380 lbs resting on the bar. lol When it finally pop, we thought we broke something.
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Thanks hope the one I get is strong enough
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haha umm i thought my door was coming in today but didnt. car is already repaired where dents were .
new door coming in tomorrow 5/15(paint jams assemble door)
prep and mask 5/15-5/16
paint 5/17
should have my car back by friday if not saturday for more dieting... man i miss my car soooo much its ridiculous
umm i thought my door was coming in today but didnt. car is already repaired where dents were .new door coming in tomorrow 5/15(paint jams assemble door)
prep and mask 5/15-5/16
paint 5/17
should have my car back by friday if not saturday for more dieting... man i miss my car soooo much its ridiculous
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 47
From: NYC
well theres the diy i was reading about. and it seems easier with the tool so thanks opel and thanks aznboi please bring the tool.!
and ihave a question for all of you guys. i have a little spare cash. and im planning to get the 07 type s cams and the bisimoto vtec springs http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?...roducts_id=291 .. and when im ready im going to send in my base cams or the type s cams to get them reground by bisimoto(stage 2) . so i would already have the springs and retainers ready and my car wont have any down time ?. or should i just wait and just do everything at one time ?
and thanks aznboi please bring the tool.! and ihave a question for all of you guys. i have a little spare cash. and im planning to get the 07 type s cams and the bisimoto vtec springs http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?...roducts_id=291 .. and when im ready im going to send in my base cams or the type s cams to get them reground by bisimoto(stage 2) . so i would already have the springs and retainers ready and my car wont have any down time ?. or should i just wait and just do everything at one time ?
Maybe i'm not understanding this correctly.... you wanna install type s cams. which has downtime..., then after, send your stock cams to get reground, then swap them again, which is more downtime.
I think, for the amount of time and money on swapping cams, you should find a set of spare heads... and REBUILD them... On your first post, I read that you are PnPng the intake tract.
Why not compliment that by porting the heads as well. If you got a set of spare heads, port them...both In&ex. While you're at it, get larger valves.
I say this because, when you're all done with your NA build, you might find that itchy need for boost lol.... and if you do, you won't regret doing this to your heads.
Now, assuming no foreseeable boost in the future..., to reach the numbers you're looking for, you're gonna have to rev up higher which is one more reason to rebuild a set of heads. At the same time , you will probably have to increase the CR, which is another reason to rebuild your heads with some REALLY good components (especially springs).
You mentioned forged pistons and rods. If you're gonna go that route (now these are just ideas), it would be nice to lower the stroke. You'll end up hating driving at under 3-4k. A custom crank shaft!!! ...
Ok back to reality.... As far as I know, stock rods are forged. Pistons are not.
Assuming you're staying NA, you'll wanna increase the CR with your custom pistons...maybe another almost a full point.
And if you're gonna get into the bottom end of the motor, install the oil squirters from the 3.5
I would not try to rev this engine past 9k, without a properly balanced crank, but if anyone's gonna go to the extent of doing that, might as well, get a different crank
....you know what I'm aiming at.All in all, Your goal numbers are reachable, but I don't know if the car is going to be very streetable. You're looking to get another 100+ whp from your current configuration, and its kinda of aiming towards what most wouldn't find very DD friendly.
All this has probably been already mentioned by other members, but I just don't feel like reading 6 pages
Last edited by Opel; May 14, 2012 at 08:07 PM.
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From: san francisco
I had to go back to the first page and read what exactly you're trying to do.
Maybe i'm not understanding this correctly.... you wanna install type s cams. which has downtime..., then after, send your stock cams to get reground, then swap them again, which is more downtime.
I think, for the amount of time and money on swapping cams, you should find a set of spare heads... and REBUILD them... On your first post, I read that you are PnPng the intake tract.
Why not compliment that by porting the heads as well. If you got a set of spare heads, port them...both In&ex. While you're at it, get larger valves.
I say this because, when you're all done with your NA build, you might find that itchy need for boost lol.... and if you do, you won't regret doing this to your heads.
Now, assuming no foreseeable boost in the future..., to reach the numbers you're looking for, you're gonna have to rev up higher which is one more reason to rebuild a set of heads. At the same time , you will probably have to increase the CR, which is another reason to rebuild your heads with some REALLY good components (especially springs).
You mentioned forged pistons and rods. If you're gonna go that route (now these are just ideas), it would be nice to lower the stroke. You'll end up hating driving at under 3-4k. A custom crank shaft!!! ...
Ok back to reality.... As far as I know, stock rods are forged. Pistons are not.
Assuming you're staying NA, you'll wanna increase the CR with your custom pistons...maybe another almost a full point.
And if you're gonna get into the bottom end of the motor, install the oil squirters from the 3.5
I would not try to rev this engine past 9k, without a properly balanced crank, but if anyone's gonna go to the extent of doing that, might as well, get a different crank ....you know what I'm aiming at.
All in all, Your goal numbers are reachable, but I don't know if the car is going to be very streetable. You're looking to get another 100+ whp from your current configuration, and its kinda of aiming towards what most wouldn't find very DD friendly.
Maybe i'm not understanding this correctly.... you wanna install type s cams. which has downtime..., then after, send your stock cams to get reground, then swap them again, which is more downtime.
I think, for the amount of time and money on swapping cams, you should find a set of spare heads... and REBUILD them... On your first post, I read that you are PnPng the intake tract.
Why not compliment that by porting the heads as well. If you got a set of spare heads, port them...both In&ex. While you're at it, get larger valves.
I say this because, when you're all done with your NA build, you might find that itchy need for boost lol.... and if you do, you won't regret doing this to your heads.
Now, assuming no foreseeable boost in the future..., to reach the numbers you're looking for, you're gonna have to rev up higher which is one more reason to rebuild a set of heads. At the same time , you will probably have to increase the CR, which is another reason to rebuild your heads with some REALLY good components (especially springs).
You mentioned forged pistons and rods. If you're gonna go that route (now these are just ideas), it would be nice to lower the stroke. You'll end up hating driving at under 3-4k. A custom crank shaft!!! ...
Ok back to reality.... As far as I know, stock rods are forged. Pistons are not.
Assuming you're staying NA, you'll wanna increase the CR with your custom pistons...maybe another almost a full point.
And if you're gonna get into the bottom end of the motor, install the oil squirters from the 3.5
I would not try to rev this engine past 9k, without a properly balanced crank, but if anyone's gonna go to the extent of doing that, might as well, get a different crank
....you know what I'm aiming at.All in all, Your goal numbers are reachable, but I don't know if the car is going to be very streetable. You're looking to get another 100+ whp from your current configuration, and its kinda of aiming towards what most wouldn't find very DD friendly.
im planning to raise compression to as high as i can as long as i can still run on pump gas( no race gas around the bay area) but im planning to run meth so ive been reading it raises octane levels?
oil squirters ? please elaborate on that.
is it TOTALLY necessary to pnp the heads too ? if its totally necessary i will do it too !.
will be getting bigger injectors.
so for as of now heres what is for sure
pnp intake manifold
pnp tbs
pnp runners
type s cams sent to bisimoto for stage 2
springs and retainers
pistons and rods
pcds
rv6 jpipe
custom catback
cai
meth
jandr ecu
with those above do you tink i will be reaching my goals?
and the tl diet
i wanna be able to run with 335i's maybe thats a big goal but i want all this done n/a
if your doing meth to stop from pinging I suggest you get it done at the dyno. Also Methanol runs out bro. lol
if you want to bump the compression the cheap way, get another set of head and get it shaved. That should put you around 12cr but make sure you get the motor clayed first before you do it.
if you want to bump the compression the cheap way, get another set of head and get it shaved. That should put you around 12cr but make sure you get the motor clayed first before you do it.
There is a difference between the a/t and m/t heads. I only know this because they have different part #'s. I have always been curious as to what exactly the difference is between the two.
takin care of Business in
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Likes: 4,733
From: Kansas City, MO
I had to go back to the first page and read what exactly you're trying to do.
Maybe i'm not understanding this correctly.... you wanna install type s cams. which has downtime..., then after, send your stock cams to get reground, then swap them again, which is more downtime.
I think, for the amount of time and money on swapping cams, you should find a set of spare heads... and REBUILD them... On your first post, I read that you are PnPng the intake tract.
Why not compliment that by porting the heads as well. If you got a set of spare heads, port them...both In&ex. While you're at it, get larger valves.
I say this because, when you're all done with your NA build, you might find that itchy need for boost lol.... and if you do, you won't regret doing this to your heads.
Now, assuming no foreseeable boost in the future..., to reach the numbers you're looking for, you're gonna have to rev up higher which is one more reason to rebuild a set of heads. At the same time , you will probably have to increase the CR, which is another reason to rebuild your heads with some REALLY good components (especially springs).
You mentioned forged pistons and rods. If you're gonna go that route (now these are just ideas), it would be nice to lower the stroke. You'll end up hating driving at under 3-4k. A custom crank shaft!!! ...
Ok back to reality.... As far as I know, stock rods are forged. Pistons are not.
Assuming you're staying NA, you'll wanna increase the CR with your custom pistons...maybe another almost a full point.
And if you're gonna get into the bottom end of the motor, install the oil squirters from the 3.5
I would not try to rev this engine past 9k, without a properly balanced crank, but if anyone's gonna go to the extent of doing that, might as well, get a different crank ....you know what I'm aiming at.
All in all, Your goal numbers are reachable, but I don't know if the car is going to be very streetable. You're looking to get another 100+ whp from your current configuration, and its kinda of aiming towards what most wouldn't find very DD friendly.
All this has probably been already mentioned by other members, but I just don't feel like reading 6 pages
Maybe i'm not understanding this correctly.... you wanna install type s cams. which has downtime..., then after, send your stock cams to get reground, then swap them again, which is more downtime.
I think, for the amount of time and money on swapping cams, you should find a set of spare heads... and REBUILD them... On your first post, I read that you are PnPng the intake tract.
Why not compliment that by porting the heads as well. If you got a set of spare heads, port them...both In&ex. While you're at it, get larger valves.
I say this because, when you're all done with your NA build, you might find that itchy need for boost lol.... and if you do, you won't regret doing this to your heads.
Now, assuming no foreseeable boost in the future..., to reach the numbers you're looking for, you're gonna have to rev up higher which is one more reason to rebuild a set of heads. At the same time , you will probably have to increase the CR, which is another reason to rebuild your heads with some REALLY good components (especially springs).
You mentioned forged pistons and rods. If you're gonna go that route (now these are just ideas), it would be nice to lower the stroke. You'll end up hating driving at under 3-4k. A custom crank shaft!!! ...
Ok back to reality.... As far as I know, stock rods are forged. Pistons are not.
Assuming you're staying NA, you'll wanna increase the CR with your custom pistons...maybe another almost a full point.
And if you're gonna get into the bottom end of the motor, install the oil squirters from the 3.5
I would not try to rev this engine past 9k, without a properly balanced crank, but if anyone's gonna go to the extent of doing that, might as well, get a different crank
....you know what I'm aiming at.All in all, Your goal numbers are reachable, but I don't know if the car is going to be very streetable. You're looking to get another 100+ whp from your current configuration, and its kinda of aiming towards what most wouldn't find very DD friendly.
All this has probably been already mentioned by other members, but I just don't feel like reading 6 pages
I was telling the same to Nelson on the phone:
5angle intake job
3 angle exhaust
bigger valves
higher CR (12.5:1)
Water Meth to suppress knock/detonation
springs and retainers while at it
reground cams
and if you wanna dig deeper, MDX 3.7 bottom end
forged pistons and rods
lighter balanced crank maybe
redline at 9K rpm
if all goes good, i might be taking up this project coming fall/winter....be around bish, dont disappear !!!
wow great info !. re reading this like 4 times still soaking it all in as im not that mechanically inclined but i do understand.
im planning to raise compression to as high as i can as long as i can still run on pump gas( no race gas around the bay area) but im planning to run meth so ive been reading it raises octane levels?
oil squirters ? please elaborate on that.
is it TOTALLY necessary to pnp the heads too ? if its totally necessary i will do it too !.
will be getting bigger injectors.
so for as of now heres what is for sure
pnp intake manifold
pnp tbs
pnp runners
type s cams sent to bisimoto for stage 2
springs and retainers
pistons and rods
pcds
rv6 jpipe
custom catback
cai
meth
jandr ecu
with those above do you tink i will be reaching my goals?
and the tl diet i wanna be able to run with 335i's maybe thats a big goal but i want all this done n/a
im planning to raise compression to as high as i can as long as i can still run on pump gas( no race gas around the bay area) but im planning to run meth so ive been reading it raises octane levels?
oil squirters ? please elaborate on that.
is it TOTALLY necessary to pnp the heads too ? if its totally necessary i will do it too !.
will be getting bigger injectors.
so for as of now heres what is for sure
pnp intake manifold
pnp tbs
pnp runners
type s cams sent to bisimoto for stage 2
springs and retainers
pistons and rods
pcds
rv6 jpipe
custom catback
cai
meth
jandr ecu
with those above do you tink i will be reaching my goals?
and the tl diet
i wanna be able to run with 335i's maybe thats a big goal but i want all this done n/ahttp://www.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 444
Likes: 35
From: san francisco
[QUOTE=swoosh;13776135]hahaha OPEL you just revealed all of my secrets
I was telling the same to Nelson on the phone:
5angle intake job
3 angle exhaust
bigger valves
higher CR (12.5:1)
Water Meth to suppress knock/detonation
springs and retainers while at it
reground cams
and if you wanna dig deeper, MDX 3.7 bottom end
forged pistons and rods
lighter balanced crank maybe
redline at 9K rpm
if all goes good, i might be taking up this project coming fall/winter....be around bish, dont disappear !!!
this im going to do for sure
5angle intake job
3 angle exhaust
bigger valves
higher CR (12.5:1)
Water Meth to suppress knock/detonation
springs and retainers while at it
reground cams
forged pistons and rods
redline at 9K rpm
but like you and opel said im doing tons of research on google everyday still soakign everything in as it takes me 4 -5 times for each page of information lol
I was telling the same to Nelson on the phone:
5angle intake job
3 angle exhaust
bigger valves
higher CR (12.5:1)
Water Meth to suppress knock/detonation
springs and retainers while at it
reground cams
and if you wanna dig deeper, MDX 3.7 bottom end
forged pistons and rods
lighter balanced crank maybe
redline at 9K rpm
if all goes good, i might be taking up this project coming fall/winter....be around bish, dont disappear !!!
this im going to do for sure
5angle intake job
3 angle exhaust
bigger valves
higher CR (12.5:1)
Water Meth to suppress knock/detonation
springs and retainers while at it
reground cams
forged pistons and rods
redline at 9K rpm
but like you and opel said im doing tons of research on google everyday
still soakign everything in as it takes me 4 -5 times for each page of information lol
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,733
From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ the link i quote earlier is "engine for dummies"....i think its self explanatory and if you have basic knowledge of an internal combustion engine and its components, you GOLDEN 
and damn you are doing the Protein Diet
and damn you are doing the Protein Diet