REAL 3.5L Superchared :)
#1
REAL 3.5L Superchared :)
Ok, so I'll start this thread along with the other 3.5L because mine is real.
The before: So I tried to start this project months ago because I was starting to get blowback out of my engine. Turns out I had done what I feared - a blown piston ring. I had a fiercely (hondata) tuned j32 running a HBP, which just gave in running around 372 whp, and my motor finely caved. So starting from where lookinco left off I used a new j32 block with j35 internals. Basically a stroker kit except instead of using all acura parts I used a combination of forged parts - rods/pistons and a crank from a RL. I also lowered the compression ratio to 10.25:1 for a safer build.
The after: HUGE power increase bottom end. Torquey as F*ck. I also put in a new clutch and flywheel. Its hard to keep the wheels from spinning of the line during normal driving. I did a break-in for 1k miles since it was a new engine. Big bump up on the entire power band for sure.
The bad: CEL!!!! Noooo! After the first 100 or so miles I started getting a CEL. I got one for the vtec controller, figured that out and then another one came on..crank sensor. Blah! Maybe it has to do with the tune maybe not.....So I cleared them and it came back on . I was going to take it back to get it read again and try to figure it out then I got in a accident. Thank GOD it was only body damage, phew! So now I have to wait to get my car back before I can get this engine sorted out. I'm reallllly close though
Bottom line: It works. It can be done. It's not 100% yet, but when it is OH BABYYYYYYY
The before: So I tried to start this project months ago because I was starting to get blowback out of my engine. Turns out I had done what I feared - a blown piston ring. I had a fiercely (hondata) tuned j32 running a HBP, which just gave in running around 372 whp, and my motor finely caved. So starting from where lookinco left off I used a new j32 block with j35 internals. Basically a stroker kit except instead of using all acura parts I used a combination of forged parts - rods/pistons and a crank from a RL. I also lowered the compression ratio to 10.25:1 for a safer build.
The after: HUGE power increase bottom end. Torquey as F*ck. I also put in a new clutch and flywheel. Its hard to keep the wheels from spinning of the line during normal driving. I did a break-in for 1k miles since it was a new engine. Big bump up on the entire power band for sure.
The bad: CEL!!!! Noooo! After the first 100 or so miles I started getting a CEL. I got one for the vtec controller, figured that out and then another one came on..crank sensor. Blah! Maybe it has to do with the tune maybe not.....So I cleared them and it came back on . I was going to take it back to get it read again and try to figure it out then I got in a accident. Thank GOD it was only body damage, phew! So now I have to wait to get my car back before I can get this engine sorted out. I'm reallllly close though
Bottom line: It works. It can be done. It's not 100% yet, but when it is OH BABYYYYYYY
#7
Former Sponsor
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You might want to talk to fsttymes (Kris) on the 2nd gen side. He did a 6spd CL-S engine swap in his TL and he had an issue with the crank sensor. I believe he needed to buy the CL-S 6 pickup or crank sensor (can't recall exactly). You may have the same issue. You might need a crank sensor from the J35 motor.
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#8
Turd Polisher
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Back on topic ... ussi .. I can't wait until your build is finished ..
I would probably drive out to Irvine to come check it out.
PS: What did you ever do with that stock crank pulley?
I would probably drive out to Irvine to come check it out.
PS: What did you ever do with that stock crank pulley?
#10
Congrat USSI, yeah the tourqe of the J35 is a nice change, as far as the crank sensor, you did reuse your J32A3 sensor and timing gear, right? If so I would check the ground at the engine lift hook next to the PS pump, then go after the sensor itself, that crank sensor (same exact one used on the 7th gen AV6 has given me issues as well and replacing it has fixed it, it is a "known issue" (although not enough of one to issues a TSB for it) with honda that they are not as reliable as we would hope. Also since you went with the RL pistons, what rings did you get? The 2nd compression ring in the RL ring set is also made of a different mateial, it is not nearly as brittle as the J32A3 stock rings. Also did you notice how the ring grove pattern on the RL pistons is different, they added material (.5mm if I remeber right when I mesured) between the 2nd copression ring and the oil ring set.
Anyway, once you get her back up and runnning NA you should see about 290ish WHP and 275ish WTQ, and should be well over 400WHP with 8-10 PSI.
Anyway, once you get her back up and runnning NA you should see about 290ish WHP and 275ish WTQ, and should be well over 400WHP with 8-10 PSI.
#15
Yes
No, it looks the same as a 3.2L, all the difference is internals.
I'm using it. Took off my UR pulley for safety of my flywheel. thanks again!
Thanks for all your help man, I must have asked you a hundred questions, but you were the only really helpful person on this. Thanks for all the info! No RL pistons, I used CP pistons to get a lower compression and the rings that came with it. I'll post pics of my toasted pistons and rings. They're really not that tough at all, any serious power will blow them in a heartbeat.
Once I get my car back I can work out all the bugs.
No, it looks the same as a 3.2L, all the difference is internals.
I'm using it. Took off my UR pulley for safety of my flywheel. thanks again!
Congrat USSI, yeah the tourqe of the J35 is a nice change, as far as the crank sensor, you did reuse your J32A3 sensor and timing gear, right? If so I would check the ground at the engine lift hook next to the PS pump, then go after the sensor itself, that crank sensor (same exact one used on the 7th gen AV6 has given me issues as well and replacing it has fixed it, it is a "known issue" (although not enough of one to issues a TSB for it) with honda that they are not as reliable as we would hope. Also since you went with the RL pistons, what rings did you get? The 2nd compression ring in the RL ring set is also made of a different mateial, it is not nearly as brittle as the J32A3 stock rings. Also did you notice how the ring grove pattern on the RL pistons is different, they added material (.5mm if I remeber right when I mesured) between the 2nd copression ring and the oil ring set.
Anyway, once you get her back up and runnning NA you should see about 290ish WHP and 275ish WTQ, and should be well over 400WHP with 8-10 PSI.
Anyway, once you get her back up and runnning NA you should see about 290ish WHP and 275ish WTQ, and should be well over 400WHP with 8-10 PSI.
Once I get my car back I can work out all the bugs.
#16
What CP part number did you use, LTs turbo build is back on, but we will end up with a J36 rather than the J40 due to financhale constraints on his part (J36= using J37 crank and rods on the 89mm bore). Also what rods did you use, RL or AM forged as well?
Time to go pop some popcorn and watch the debate....
Time to go pop some popcorn and watch the debate....
#17
If it was a CL-S (J32A2) the 02-03 MDX componets from the J35A3 (Crank and Rods) are a direct drop in, the 05+RL will work with the J32A3, the crank nose is different legnths between the two gens of J32.
#18
What do you guys need pics of, I can show the J35 internals going into a J32A3 block, I have built 6 of these in the last year....... Hell there is now even a J32A2 out there running around with a set of J37 internals on a bored block with 05 TL-S cams going, he now has 500 miles with no issues, this stuff is very possible and is being done.......
#19
347hp/300tq @ 4psi
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What do you guys need pics of, I can show the J35 internals going into a J32A3 block, I have built 6 of these in the last year....... Hell there is now even a J32A2 out there running around with a set of J37 internals on a bored block with 05 TL-S cams going, he now has 500 miles with no issues, this stuff is very possible and is being done.......
#20
Burning Brakes
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does it really matter who is faster?
so you both have a boosted TL, thats fine and dandy
congrats on both of yall
and ussi, cant wait to see some pics man!
so you both have a boosted TL, thats fine and dandy
congrats on both of yall
and ussi, cant wait to see some pics man!
#21
tehLEGOman
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ussi ...you're the man!
It sounds like you're making a lot of power with your setup.
Let me know if you decide to part out your car for whatever reason. I'll ship you my ecu, and you ship me your ecu, and i'll pay the difference for how much Church Auto/Hondata charged you to have it reflashed.
It sounds like you're making a lot of power with your setup.
Let me know if you decide to part out your car for whatever reason. I'll ship you my ecu, and you ship me your ecu, and i'll pay the difference for how much Church Auto/Hondata charged you to have it reflashed.
#26
pics
Guys - I don't have too many pics but I do have some.
NVA - I can look up the CP part #'s when I get back into town. The rods are forged cunningham rods.
Anyone interested in doing this can use all factory parts. I just used some forged internals as an extraaa precaution so this doesn't happen again.
This is why you don't run more than 5psi without a proper tune:
Can you see the hole??
New stuff:
NVA - I can look up the CP part #'s when I get back into town. The rods are forged cunningham rods.
Anyone interested in doing this can use all factory parts. I just used some forged internals as an extraaa precaution so this doesn't happen again.
This is why you don't run more than 5psi without a proper tune:
Can you see the hole??
New stuff:
#29
OMGWTF4THGENTL
iTrader: (2)
Then he went dark. I saw no part out threads, and was thinking... there are few here that have the resources and desire to go extreme, USSI being one of the ones with the means and desire. I figured he was up to something, didn't think this though.
Congrats man, I can't wait to hear the final specs, and how you work the tuning issue. Running a Hondata J32 tune on a modified J35 can't be too healthy... HBP back on too?
I need to officially make friends with NVA.
#31
Ryan Christopher
Quite the blow out on the piston!! Glad you are getting it all worked out. The build is insane!! Can't wait to see the final #'s after you work out the CEL issues!
Good luck!
Good luck!
#32
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
I did too, I saw those post he was making about leaking oil out his intake, and NEW what had happned...
Then he went dark. I saw no part out threads, and was thinking... there are few here that have the resources and desire to go extreme, USSI being one of the ones with the means and desire. I figured he was up to something, didn't think this though.
Congrats man, I can't wait to hear the final specs, and how you work the tuning issue. Running a Hondata J32 tune on a modified J35 can't be too healthy... HBP back on too?
I need to officially make friends with NVA.
Then he went dark. I saw no part out threads, and was thinking... there are few here that have the resources and desire to go extreme, USSI being one of the ones with the means and desire. I figured he was up to something, didn't think this though.
Congrats man, I can't wait to hear the final specs, and how you work the tuning issue. Running a Hondata J32 tune on a modified J35 can't be too healthy... HBP back on too?
I need to officially make friends with NVA.
He's in Leesburg if you are interested.
#33
USSI, yeah, that looks like you had some realy nastly lean out going on, LOL, just got done rebuilding a J32A2 that looked like that, the guys old shop never checked his damn fuel pressure which was only 20PSI and instead raped him for a new MAP sensor, plugs and coils, JackAzzes. Nice parts, I def want part numbers and contacts for the turbo build.
AcuraPimp, from the looks of that Dyno that motor won't be running for long, so enjoy it while it lasts. Next time add the AFR to the chart, the way it is bouncing on top does not look good.
AcuraPimp, from the looks of that Dyno that motor won't be running for long, so enjoy it while it lasts. Next time add the AFR to the chart, the way it is bouncing on top does not look good.
#35
Three Wheelin'
Ussi: Srry for pulluting...
https://acurazine.com/forums/acurazine-clubs-meets-15/westchester-nyc-acurazine-meet-october-687448/
#36
I have car ADD
iTrader: (6)
anywayssssss
can we get back on topic ??!?!
USSI.. i always knew you were up to something too, b/c you were always being shady about telling us your dynos.. i remember when you did the p&p and threw in the TL-S cams
Are you still u still using the TL-S cams? and where did you get the forged internal parts?? looks like a sweet upgrade.. did you have a local machine shop make them?
can we get back on topic ??!?!
USSI.. i always knew you were up to something too, b/c you were always being shady about telling us your dynos.. i remember when you did the p&p and threw in the TL-S cams
Are you still u still using the TL-S cams? and where did you get the forged internal parts?? looks like a sweet upgrade.. did you have a local machine shop make them?
#37
Make Nice, Not Rice
Join Date: Jan 2007
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USSI, you're the man... Thanks for putting out all the labor, money, and especially commitment to this project. I've been waiting for this for over a year now! I'll keep posted.. keep up the good work!
#39
Team Owner
Guys - I don't have too many pics but I do have some.
NVA - I can look up the CP part #'s when I get back into town. The rods are forged cunningham rods.
Anyone interested in doing this can use all factory parts. I just used some forged internals as an extraaa precaution so this doesn't happen again.
This is why you don't run more than 5psi without a proper tune:
Can you see the hole??
New stuff:
NVA - I can look up the CP part #'s when I get back into town. The rods are forged cunningham rods.
Anyone interested in doing this can use all factory parts. I just used some forged internals as an extraaa precaution so this doesn't happen again.
This is why you don't run more than 5psi without a proper tune:
Can you see the hole??
New stuff: