Racing ATF
07-16-2010, 02:01 PM
#242
Team Owner
07-20-2010, 02:00 AM
#243
Sorry for the late reply. I did a 2x3 and so far so good. I like the firm shifts and it seems like the car is faster or it could just be psychological lol. The stage 3 exhaust definitely sounds louder too but I don't know why it would after a 3x3 w/ redline racing.
i plan on doing the final 1x3 during my next oil change.
also, the little bump/thump when changing from park to r, d etc is very subtle now. nice!
i plan on doing the final 1x3 during my next oil change.
also, the little bump/thump when changing from park to r, d etc is very subtle now. nice!
07-28-2010, 11:42 AM
#244
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I just Ordered 6qts of the regular racing ATF and 3qts of the lightweight for my 2G RL. Ill be sure to let you guys know how it goes. With M1 im noticing a tiny bit of slippage from 3-4 under heavy (70%) throttle so maybe this will help
07-29-2010, 06:32 PM
#245
Burning Brakes
man i gotta get some of this stuff, been putting it off since i had a whole bunch of maintenance on my other ride and besides wifey been driving the TL-S which always makes me nervous lol!
07-30-2010, 11:55 AM
#246
I finally got around to finishing everything on my 03 tls trans. First did 3x3 with redline racing fluid; 2q regular racing, 1q lightweight per change. Didn't really improve shifting much, if at all. Replaced both pressure switches; still no change. Removed solenoids and adjusted 1/2 turn each per sonnax tool instructions; slight improvement @ light throttle accel upshifts, slightly firmer shifts on hard accel, but still a lot of shift overlap. All in all I'd do it again just to hopefully extend trans life, but I wanted/expected more.
09-20-2010, 03:44 PM
#247
Racer
So I have to ask you guys, since the TL is my wife's car, do you think a girl would complain about the shifting change with the "Type F" fluid? I asked her if she minded that her car shifted firmer, and she stated "As long as the car works, and it doesn't break it. Sure." I told her from what I'm reading on here that it helps to quicken the shifting just a tad.
Should I try all Type F or do a D4 change at some point?
Should I try all Type F or do a D4 change at some point?
09-20-2010, 05:29 PM
#248
Team Owner
So I have to ask you guys, since the TL is my wife's car, do you think a girl would complain about the shifting change with the "Type F" fluid? I asked her if she minded that her car shifted firmer, and she stated "As long as the car works, and it doesn't break it. Sure." I told her from what I'm reading on here that it helps to quicken the shifting just a tad.
Should I try all Type F or do a D4 change at some point?
Should I try all Type F or do a D4 change at some point?
Due to the DBW closing throttle on the shifts, it will never have a harsh shift. You still barely feel the shifts with type F. They just happen much quicker.
09-20-2010, 05:31 PM
#249
Team Owner
I finally got around to finishing everything on my 03 tls trans. First did 3x3 with redline racing fluid; 2q regular racing, 1q lightweight per change. Didn't really improve shifting much, if at all. Replaced both pressure switches; still no change. Removed solenoids and adjusted 1/2 turn each per sonnax tool instructions; slight improvement @ light throttle accel upshifts, slightly firmer shifts on hard accel, but still a lot of shift overlap. All in all I'd do it again just to hopefully extend trans life, but I wanted/expected more.
09-21-2010, 09:49 PM
#250
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Not all is the this fault of the racing ATF. Our 3G TL has NOTHING resembling a "hard shift". Even with the racing fluid, the shifts are NO WHERE near being "hard".
Using the oem motor mounts and oem lower control arm bushings as a reference point, this crack in the trans mount is "normal and expected" in my opinion.
-- The stuff below is just me rambling. Read only if you are bored
If you have ever been in a car with a real racing automatic trans, then you would know what a hard shift is really like.
Back in my days, we had General Motors PowerGlides, T350's, and T400's automatic transmissions. We would add things called a "manual valve body" or add a B&M Shift Kit to the oem valve body. With a modified valve body in one of those GM trans, those where hard shifts. Even under extremely light throttle, the shifts would violently jerk your head *way* back and the rear wheels would chirp during shifts. Usually you would hear a "boom" sound during shifts too as the whole car was *slammed* into the next gear.
This is what I grew-up with in my days. My street racing car had a B&M built T400 auto trans with a complete manual valve body. The manual valve body required me to shift it. Similar in the way of having your TL in Sport Shift mode. But, mine was that way all of the time. It would not shift automatically at all. We used a thing called a B&M "ratchet shifter" to manually shift gears.
By the way, B&M (click here) is the name of the only major company back in my days that offered performance stuff for automaitc transmissions.
Even my daily grocery-getter had a B&M Shift Kit. It would always, and I mean always and unavoidable, catch a second gear scratch (chirp the tires going into second gear). This made life "interesting" when there was a cop traveling beside me..... second gear chirp... hell, hope he doesn't notice
Often I would lean my body way forward and put my head facing down immediately before the 1-2 gear shift in anticipation of the jerk. By leaning forward, my head would experience much less whiplash.
Using the oem motor mounts and oem lower control arm bushings as a reference point, this crack in the trans mount is "normal and expected" in my opinion.
-- The stuff below is just me rambling. Read only if you are bored
If you have ever been in a car with a real racing automatic trans, then you would know what a hard shift is really like.
Back in my days, we had General Motors PowerGlides, T350's, and T400's automatic transmissions. We would add things called a "manual valve body" or add a B&M Shift Kit to the oem valve body. With a modified valve body in one of those GM trans, those where hard shifts. Even under extremely light throttle, the shifts would violently jerk your head *way* back and the rear wheels would chirp during shifts. Usually you would hear a "boom" sound during shifts too as the whole car was *slammed* into the next gear.
This is what I grew-up with in my days. My street racing car had a B&M built T400 auto trans with a complete manual valve body. The manual valve body required me to shift it. Similar in the way of having your TL in Sport Shift mode. But, mine was that way all of the time. It would not shift automatically at all. We used a thing called a B&M "ratchet shifter" to manually shift gears.
By the way, B&M (click here) is the name of the only major company back in my days that offered performance stuff for automaitc transmissions.
Even my daily grocery-getter had a B&M Shift Kit. It would always, and I mean always and unavoidable, catch a second gear scratch (chirp the tires going into second gear). This made life "interesting" when there was a cop traveling beside me..... second gear chirp... hell, hope he doesn't notice
Often I would lean my body way forward and put my head facing down immediately before the 1-2 gear shift in anticipation of the jerk. By leaning forward, my head would experience much less whiplash.
But, agreed on the hard shifts...I've owned THM350, 200-4R, and 700-R4, and driven THM400's and 350's that were worked, etc. The TL doesn't shift hard.
In fact, one thing I wanted to ask...am I the only one who thinks it actually shifts *slower* in SS mode? Like it's second-guessing me...or maybe I just suck at driving, IDK.
But my real question...has anyone done Type F on an '07 or '08? And, Inaccurate, from your research, is there any reason you can think of that the '07-'08 trannies would react much differently, or that I should proceed with extreme caution? I'm coming up on 20K...and wondering if that faint burning smell I often detect is the crappy Z1? IHC did say that Z1 is often toast by 20K, which has me extremely concerned, to say the least....
09-21-2010, 10:03 PM
#251
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Yes.
The Z1 is very much inferior than RedLine. Huge difference in quality. The Z1 ATF is among the worst fluids according to the common consensus. Whereas, the RedLine a high quality, true synthetic fluid from a company with an outstanding reputation.
For longevity, the most important thing is to change the fluid extremely often. Changing the fluid often will freshen the fluid before it "wears down" and will flush out the wear particles.
For longevity, I would do a single drain (3 qts x 1 drain) of the ATF every time that the engine oil was changed if Z1 was being used.
If Amsoil or RedLine ATF was being used, I would do a single drain (3 qts x 1 drain)approximately every 15-20 thousands miles. The drain would be to flush out the wear particles more so than to refresh the worn-down fluid.
The above is based on my opinion and anal personality. I am not able to cite any references to support my claims. It is just what I would do... and it is what I have actually done. Prior to switching to RedLine, I had used Mobil-1 synthetic ATF. I changed the Mobil-1 ATF *every* time I changed engine oil, which is once every 3,000 miles. I have done this for the past 55,000 miles. By the way, I had used Mobil-1 engine oil too prior to switching to RedLine engine oil a few months ago.
The Z1 is very much inferior than RedLine. Huge difference in quality. The Z1 ATF is among the worst fluids according to the common consensus. Whereas, the RedLine a high quality, true synthetic fluid from a company with an outstanding reputation.
For longevity, the most important thing is to change the fluid extremely often. Changing the fluid often will freshen the fluid before it "wears down" and will flush out the wear particles.
For longevity, I would do a single drain (3 qts x 1 drain) of the ATF every time that the engine oil was changed if Z1 was being used.
If Amsoil or RedLine ATF was being used, I would do a single drain (3 qts x 1 drain)approximately every 15-20 thousands miles. The drain would be to flush out the wear particles more so than to refresh the worn-down fluid.
The above is based on my opinion and anal personality. I am not able to cite any references to support my claims. It is just what I would do... and it is what I have actually done. Prior to switching to RedLine, I had used Mobil-1 synthetic ATF. I changed the Mobil-1 ATF *every* time I changed engine oil, which is once every 3,000 miles. I have done this for the past 55,000 miles. By the way, I had used Mobil-1 engine oil too prior to switching to RedLine engine oil a few months ago.
Wow...I've been called anal, and even I run 6K on Mobil-1 (not with the TL yet, tho...bought it in June, switched to Mobil-1 in...July? and not quite at the 3K mark...and still trying to figure out what the MID oil-life %age is based on...). I won't even talk about my sins with trans. fluid. But, you sir, are a maintenance *GOD*.
OTOH, my first car...'77 Cutlass Supreme, 350/350...I would do a tune-up just because it was Tuesday and the wind was coming from the East and I had indexed the plugs with it coming from the West the last time, and you know...one of them might've loosened up a little, or something...
But, it does help when you can damn near set up a Barco-lounger in the engine compartment, and still have room for a case of beer and all your tools.
09-21-2010, 11:01 PM
#253
Safety Car
Thread Starter
No reason for caution that I can think of.
Thanks for the walk down memory lane. Spark plug indexing… wow, I have not heard that mentioned in the past 18 years since I have been out of hotrodding.
09-22-2010, 08:27 AM
#254
Team Owner
LOL, good times. You are a bit older than me...I remember the B&M kits well, but I thought there was one competitor. Unfortunately, I not only couldn't afford a shift kit, but had nowhere near the knowledge/balls to tear into my trans. If I knew then what I know now...wait, I still don't know anything!
But, agreed on the hard shifts...I've owned THM350, 200-4R, and 700-R4, and driven THM400's and 350's that were worked, etc. The TL doesn't shift hard.
In fact, one thing I wanted to ask...am I the only one who thinks it actually shifts *slower* in SS mode? Like it's second-guessing me...or maybe I just suck at driving, IDK.
But my real question...has anyone done Type F on an '07 or '08? And, Inaccurate, from your research, is there any reason you can think of that the '07-'08 trannies would react much differently, or that I should proceed with extreme caution? I'm coming up on 20K...and wondering if that faint burning smell I often detect is the crappy Z1? IHC did say that Z1 is often toast by 20K, which has me extremely concerned, to say the least....
But, agreed on the hard shifts...I've owned THM350, 200-4R, and 700-R4, and driven THM400's and 350's that were worked, etc. The TL doesn't shift hard.
In fact, one thing I wanted to ask...am I the only one who thinks it actually shifts *slower* in SS mode? Like it's second-guessing me...or maybe I just suck at driving, IDK.
But my real question...has anyone done Type F on an '07 or '08? And, Inaccurate, from your research, is there any reason you can think of that the '07-'08 trannies would react much differently, or that I should proceed with extreme caution? I'm coming up on 20K...and wondering if that faint burning smell I often detect is the crappy Z1? IHC did say that Z1 is often toast by 20K, which has me extremely concerned, to say the least....
I did my first shift kit in the 200-4R in my GN when I was 17. It was a bit intimidating but I had the trans on the garage floor flipped upside down so it made things easier.
Where they gave me siffer springs for the accumulators I subsituted metal rod. Where I was supposed to drill a 1/16 hole I drilled a 1/8" hole. It was the 17 year old way of thinking. I ended up with a trans that would chirp second during a cold fast idle without my foot on the pedal and would chirp 3rd at light throttle and 4th under heavy throttle. My U-joints did not like it much and gave up shortly. Live and learn. Coming from many "real" non electronic transmissions I realize as I'm sure you and Inaccurate do that the TL shifts are some of the softest around. A little "jerk" between shifts is not a bad thing.
09-22-2010, 08:43 AM
#255
Inaccurate and IHC,
I am glad I found this thread. I plan on changing my atf in a few weeks with my oil change. I skimmed through this thread and am a little confused on what atf to use. Originally I was planning on using Red Line D4. I have an 07 Type-S. Now I am considering D4 mixed with Red Line racing atf. Probably do a 2/1 ratio D4/Racing. What do you guys think? I have about 63k on the car and did a 1x3 about 10k ago with ZR1. I have also replaced the pressure swithces a while back. Thanks for the input guys.
I am glad I found this thread. I plan on changing my atf in a few weeks with my oil change. I skimmed through this thread and am a little confused on what atf to use. Originally I was planning on using Red Line D4. I have an 07 Type-S. Now I am considering D4 mixed with Red Line racing atf. Probably do a 2/1 ratio D4/Racing. What do you guys think? I have about 63k on the car and did a 1x3 about 10k ago with ZR1. I have also replaced the pressure swithces a while back. Thanks for the input guys.
09-22-2010, 09:09 AM
#256
Team Owner
Inaccurate and IHC,
I am glad I found this thread. I plan on changing my atf in a few weeks with my oil change. I skimmed through this thread and am a little confused on what atf to use. Originally I was planning on using Red Line D4. I have an 07 Type-S. Now I am considering D4 mixed with Red Line racing atf. Probably do a 2/1 ratio D4/Racing. What do you guys think? I have about 63k on the car and did a 1x3 about 10k ago with ZR1. I have also replaced the pressure swithces a while back. Thanks for the input guys.
I am glad I found this thread. I plan on changing my atf in a few weeks with my oil change. I skimmed through this thread and am a little confused on what atf to use. Originally I was planning on using Red Line D4. I have an 07 Type-S. Now I am considering D4 mixed with Red Line racing atf. Probably do a 2/1 ratio D4/Racing. What do you guys think? I have about 63k on the car and did a 1x3 about 10k ago with ZR1. I have also replaced the pressure swithces a while back. Thanks for the input guys.
09-22-2010, 09:27 AM
#258
Burning Brakes
anyone know if the TL and TL-S tranny's are the same or not? I'm assuming they are the same but could be wrong. Also this pressure switches 3rd and 4th gear how long does it take to do and at what mileage has everyone been doing it at? Sorry for being a little off topic but juts trying to get some quik answers if possible...TIA
09-22-2010, 01:45 PM
#260
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Remember that when you do a single refill, you are getting a "mixture" like you had thought about doing. After your first refill, you will have 40% new fluid mixed with 60% previous old fluid. Therefore, you will be "easing into it" anyhow.
Refills = Percent of new fluid
1= 40%
2= 73%
3= 79%
4= 88%
5= 93%
6= 96%
7= 98%
8= 99%
9= 100%
09-22-2010, 02:15 PM
#261
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anyone know if the TL and TL-S tranny's are the same or not? I'm assuming they are the same but could be wrong. Also this pressure switches 3rd and 4th gear how long does it take to do and at what mileage has everyone been doing it at? Sorry for being a little off topic but juts trying to get some quik answers if possible...TIA
09-22-2010, 02:17 PM
#262
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argh...i know this has been beaten to death over n over but...
should i do ALL redline racing OR 6 qts d4 n 3 qts racing?
making my purchase on friday.
thanks...
should i do ALL redline racing OR 6 qts d4 n 3 qts racing?
making my purchase on friday.
thanks...
09-22-2010, 02:27 PM
#263
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Inaccurate and IHC, thanks for your replies...and for this thread. Time to order some Redline...should help me sleep better at night. I'm liking this car too much to want to worry about the trans giving up, and shifting better is good on all levels.
09-22-2010, 02:43 PM
#264
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Skip the D4.
Do the RedLine Racing ATF.
IHC and myself have slightly different preferences in the thickness. Both recommendations (IHC & myself) are ok. Just different preferences.
For normal year round usage with emphasis on reducing parasitic drag (for performance reasons), I recommend 2 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 1 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill.
For very cold climate usage with emphasis on reducing parasitic drag, I recommend 1 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 2 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill.
I have been using pure RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I have 5 refills with the lightweight. That makes my entire ATF approx 93% Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I run my car hard. Even thru the Texas summer, I saw zero metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug.
However if your primary concern is longevity of the transmission -
For hot climates, use 3 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) per every refill
For cold climates, use 2 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 1 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill. This is the same recommendation from IHC.
Redline or Amsoil ?
I vote for RedLine. There is something about Amsoil that doesn’t sit well with me….. related to their customer service and secretive proprietary information. If you have a great product, you should be proud to discuss it like Redline is proud to discuss their product.
AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF (click here)
Do the RedLine Racing ATF.
IHC and myself have slightly different preferences in the thickness
. Both recommendations (IHC & myself) are ok. Just different preferences.For normal year round usage with emphasis on reducing parasitic drag (for performance reasons), I recommend 2 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 1 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill.
For very cold climate usage with emphasis on reducing parasitic drag, I recommend 1 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 2 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill.
I have been using pure RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I have 5 refills with the lightweight. That makes my entire ATF approx 93% Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I run my car hard. Even thru the Texas summer, I saw zero metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug.
However if your primary concern is longevity of the transmission -
For hot climates, use 3 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) per every refill
For cold climates, use 2 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 1 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill. This is the same recommendation from IHC.
Redline or Amsoil ?
I vote for RedLine. There is something about Amsoil that doesn’t sit well with me….. related to their customer service and secretive proprietary information. If you have a great product, you should be proud to discuss it like Redline is proud to discuss their product.
AMSOIL Synthetic Transmission Fluid VS Redline D4 ATF (click here)
Last edited by Inaccurate; 09-22-2010 at 02:47 PM.
09-22-2010, 02:55 PM
#265
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^^thank you, inaccurate. very helpful.
i'm in the north east, i drive my car fairly hard i suppose. winters here are cold and summers here are hot.
looks like i'll do 2 quarts of racing and 1 quart of lightweight, skipping d4 completely.
so that'll be 6 qts racing, 3 qts lightweight.
thanks again. very helpful.
i'm in the north east, i drive my car fairly hard i suppose. winters here are cold and summers here are hot.
looks like i'll do 2 quarts of racing and 1 quart of lightweight, skipping d4 completely.
so that'll be 6 qts racing, 3 qts lightweight.
thanks again. very helpful.
09-22-2010, 04:04 PM
#266
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Yes sir !
Where are you getting yours from?
Several people mentioned that they got theirs from eBay.
I have always ordered mine directly from the RedLine website.
RedLine Website (click here)
Where are you getting yours from?
Several people mentioned that they got theirs from eBay.
I have always ordered mine directly from the RedLine website.
RedLine Website (click here)
09-22-2010, 04:07 PM
#267
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Yes sir !
Where are you getting yours from?
Several people mentioned that they got theirs from eBay.
I have always ordered mine directly from the RedLine website.
RedLine Website (click here)
Where are you getting yours from?
Several people mentioned that they got theirs from eBay.
I have always ordered mine directly from the RedLine website.
RedLine Website (click here)
they carry all kinds of goodies.
http://www.synlubes.com/
09-22-2010, 09:53 PM
#269
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Anything worth doing, is worth *over*-doing...so I just picked up a case (12 quarts) of Redline Racing ATF from Amazon...that way I have enough for two 3x3's, once I get some lightweight.
Amazon's price is $119.40, which is about $1/qt. less than anything else I saw (didn't check the 'Bay, tho). I broke down and signed up for Amazon Prime a couple years back, so I get free 2-day shipping, which is nice on a 24-lb order But after placing my order, I "signed out" and as far as I can tell, anyone can get free standard shipping (3-5 days).
Supposedly there were two cases in stock, meaning one left now, so if anyone else wants to stock up at basically $1/qt. savings, no tax and no shipping, hit it quick! Unfortunately they do not seem to have the lightweight, I'll probably order that from Jegs.
Hopefully someone here can take advantage...for comparison, the single-quart price is $10.95, comparable to other places on a quick Google, and to Redline's own site. I did see one or two places with steep discounts on a 5-gallon jug, but I prefer the quart bottles for easy pouring and measuring. I didn't see cases offered much, but again, I get a fair amount of stuff from Amazon, so I didn't look much further after finding that deal.
Amazon's price is $119.40, which is about $1/qt. less than anything else I saw (didn't check the 'Bay, tho). I broke down and signed up for Amazon Prime a couple years back, so I get free 2-day shipping, which is nice on a 24-lb order
But after placing my order, I "signed out" and as far as I can tell, anyone can get free standard shipping (3-5 days).Supposedly there were two cases in stock, meaning one left now, so if anyone else wants to stock up at basically $1/qt. savings, no tax and no shipping, hit it quick! Unfortunately they do not seem to have the lightweight, I'll probably order that from Jegs.
Hopefully someone here can take advantage...for comparison, the single-quart price is $10.95, comparable to other places on a quick Google, and to Redline's own site. I did see one or two places with steep discounts on a 5-gallon jug, but I prefer the quart bottles for easy pouring and measuring. I didn't see cases offered much, but again, I get a fair amount of stuff from Amazon, so I didn't look much further after finding that deal.
09-22-2010, 11:46 PM
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there is a place called al smith's automotive products about 5 mins from my house.
they carry all kinds of goodies.
http://www.synlubes.com/
they carry all kinds of goodies.
http://www.synlubes.com/
Well, you know what they say....
"Once you get locked in to a serious synthetic lubricant collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can."
09-23-2010, 08:03 AM
#272
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09-23-2010, 05:32 PM
#274
Anyway... I hoped for a better shift, but I am content to accept what I got and still hope for a little longer trans life. My car is an o3 type s, with a conventional throttle cable, no dbw, and the shifts are still a little slow and soft.
09-23-2010, 06:10 PM
#275
Burning Brakes
You guys really need to talk to the guys at Transgo about developing a shift kit for you. Last year they came out with one for the JATCO 5AT used in most every pre-09 RWD and RWD-based AWD Nissan products. It's about $220 and takes about 4 to 5 hours to install. You simply drop the valve-body to install the kit. Normal driveability isn't really effected, but 50%+ throttle shifts apparently are much quicker and harder hitting. It would be worth a call.
09-23-2010, 07:19 PM
#276
Team Owner
You guys really need to talk to the guys at Transgo about developing a shift kit for you. Last year they came out with one for the JATCO 5AT used in most every pre-09 RWD and RWD-based AWD Nissan products. It's about $220 and takes about 4 to 5 hours to install. You simply drop the valve-body to install the kit. Normal driveability isn't really effected, but 50%+ throttle shifts apparently are much quicker and harder hitting. It would be worth a call.
Something like that would be nice. I have a lot of experience with Trans-go. That was what we installed in every single rebuild because they not only made it shift slightly quicker but corrected all sorts of factory issues from lube problems to volume/flow problems, cooling problems, etc to increase reliability.
Though I've never studied the Honda 5at in depth I don't think there's any sort of accessable valvebody. You have to pull the trans out and split the case in half.
I was thinking along the lines of a resistor to fool the ECU into raising overall line pressure. Shifts would be firmer throughout the range but that's a small price to pay for reliability.
However, the non friction modified fluid accomplishes the same thing as upping the line pressure. 50% more dynamic holding power and 100% more static holding power without hurting shift quality is a huge improvement and it's as far as we need to go at any bolt-on power levels and so far so good with the turbo TLs.
So far it's all we need and it doesn't come with the associated problems of raising line pressure.
09-23-2010, 09:27 PM
#277
Burning Brakes
InAccurate what if I was to run only RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). would that be okay for cold climate?
I know in hot climate it would be fine since you are running pure Redline lightweight, But im in NorthEast I want to run just the Lightweight stuff as well just wondering if it would be Fine in the cold weather. I would think I should have no problem
I know in hot climate it would be fine since you are running pure Redline lightweight, But im in NorthEast I want to run just the Lightweight stuff as well just wondering if it would be Fine in the cold weather. I would think I should have no problem
09-23-2010, 09:31 PM
#278
Team Owner
InAccurate what if I was to run only RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). would that be okay for cold climate?
I know in hot climate it would be fine since you are running pure Redline lightweight, But im in NorthEast I want to run just the Lightweight stuff as well just wondering if it would be Fine in the cold weather. I would think I should have no problem
I know in hot climate it would be fine since you are running pure Redline lightweight, But im in NorthEast I want to run just the Lightweight stuff as well just wondering if it would be Fine in the cold weather. I would think I should have no problem
If you have <5 mile trip to work everyday and that's all you ever drive it, it will work fine with the lightweight stuff. For anything else you need at least a mix.
I believe Inaccurate is running a mix, not straight lightweight.
09-23-2010, 09:47 PM
#279
Burning Brakes
"""I have been using pure RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I have 5 refills with the lightweight. That makes my entire ATF approx 93% Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I run my car hard. Even thru the Texas summer, I saw zero metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug."""
I only asked cuz i read this post from InAccurate, but maybe could be a typo....But if it's not okay I will def run the mix for sure instead, I'll be doing this on October and winter will be around the corner...
IHC what do you recommend running for the 07 TypeS Trans I drive it hard from time to time daily commute Mon-Fri is about 10miles city driving to and from work...I want to remove as much comfortness as possible to meaning the harsher I can get it the better. Your thoughts how which Mix combo I should go with?
I only asked cuz i read this post from InAccurate, but maybe could be a typo....But if it's not okay I will def run the mix for sure instead, I'll be doing this on October and winter will be around the corner...
IHC what do you recommend running for the 07 TypeS Trans I drive it hard from time to time daily commute Mon-Fri is about 10miles city driving to and from work...I want to remove as much comfortness as possible to meaning the harsher I can get it the better. Your thoughts how which Mix combo I should go with?
09-23-2010, 10:30 PM
#280
Team Owner
"""I have been using pure RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I have 5 refills with the lightweight. That makes my entire ATF approx 93% Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I run my car hard. Even thru the Texas summer, I saw zero metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug."""
I only asked cuz i read this post from InAccurate, but maybe could be a typo....But if it's not okay I will def run the mix for sure instead, I'll be doing this on October and winter will be around the corner...
IHC what do you recommend running for the 07 TypeS Trans I drive it hard from time to time daily commute Mon-Fri is about 10miles city driving to and from work...I want to remove as much comfortness as possible to meaning the harsher I can get it the better. Your thoughts how which Mix combo I should go with?
I only asked cuz i read this post from InAccurate, but maybe could be a typo....But if it's not okay I will def run the mix for sure instead, I'll be doing this on October and winter will be around the corner...
IHC what do you recommend running for the 07 TypeS Trans I drive it hard from time to time daily commute Mon-Fri is about 10miles city driving to and from work...I want to remove as much comfortness as possible to meaning the harsher I can get it the better. Your thoughts how which Mix combo I should go with?
There's a point where too thin can cause excessive wear. Too thick might cost you less than .5mpg but it's not going to hurt anything. It's better to err on the thick side. The thin stuff may be worth 1hp.
The thing to think about is Z1 is not a synthetic. It's going to thicken more when cold and thin more when hot. The racing fluid is barely thicker than the Z1 at startup temps but it does not thin out as much at higher temps.
With an ultra high end fluid like Redline it's possible you can get away with 100% lightweight since it has a very high shear stability and film strength but the pros outweight the cons IMO. Those kinds of fluids are usually meant for race cars that need every advantage they can get where you can sacrifice a little wear for a couple hp.
Too thin would likely show up as gear and bearing wear on the magnet. Inaccurate says he sees none so who knows.
Almost forgot, the "racing" and "lightweight racing" fluids have no FM so shift feel should be about the same between the two.