Inaccurate

Not too late at all. Better late than never

BukvaMan

I live in NJ/NY, should i stick to just racing type F or is something else recommended. It gets cold up here but you know regular cold i guess nothing like Canada . Inaccurate, when i was looking at your youtube videos of the transmission shifting i could not believe the difference it made...

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

I live in Chicago and had been wondering the same thing. After reading over this thread I found that the viscosity of the Redline Racing (Type F) is higher than the Acura Z1 fluid and that it could be a bit thick for cold temps. I believe this is why many on this forum recommend 2qts Racing with 1qt Lightweight racing. Mixing in some Lightweight will bring the viscosity down and that ratio ends up pretty close to the viscosity of the Z1 fluid. Take a look at this post by Innacurate:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...2#post12371292

I hate cars

The thing to understand is at 212F Z1 is around 7ish and Redine Racing is 10cSt. If you go up to 222 which is entirely possible and happens on a regular basis, the Redline is now 7cSt and Z1 is getting into scary territory. Z1 at 200F will be around 10 cSt. So if you're worried about Redline racing being too thick, think about the viscosity of Z1 for the first 10 minutes of driving as it warms up. It's just a non issue IMO unless you live in an extreme cold climate.

mb1976

All this reading about the Z1 fluid and Redline Racing Type F is making me wonder on how unreliable Honda transmission fluids are towards the Honda's V6 5AT. My cousin who lives in Jacksonville has an 05 TL with only 65,000 miles on it and his transmission just took a dump a few days ago. I just bought my 06 TL like couple of months ago with 61620 and now I am sitting at almost 66,000. Even with that being said I replaced my transmission fluid along with the filter right after I bough the car right now my fluid still looks good and I plan on replacing the 3rd and 4th gear switches when I come up on my oil change and possible change my oil to synthetic and may even change out my transmission fluid again just to be on the safe side

djmanu

iTrader: (2)

i just ordered a 12 quart pack from amazon for 120 of the redline racing atf. shipping was free because i have amazon prime, so i figured i could use the extra 3 quarts after my 3x3 for the next time i do a drain.

il be putting it in this weekend and posting up some initial thoughts. my car just hit 93000 and i bought it used earlier this year. i checked the atf in it currently, and its nasty brown, i even feel the car hanging when shifting some times. hope to see a night and day difference.

Acuraholic

iTrader: (3)

Just did the 3x3 today paired with new pressure switches.....drives like a new car! Thanks for all the trial and research by the original posters!

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

Awesome news! Im itching to do this myself now! but i only have 33k and did a mobil 1 complete flush @ 17k. I dont know how much the redline would improve over the mobil 1 one thats already in there. as i did just another 3 quart fluid exchange about 1k miles ago.

But good news

I hate cars

The Mobil 1 is a DexIII equivalent. The Racing fluid is a type F equivalent. Going from DexIII to a non FM fluid is a big difference.

Inaccurate

I do know

If you are concern about the long-term life of your trans, the Redline makes a huge difference over the Mobil 1 ATF.

Before using the Racing ATF, I was running pure Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF for many miles and many years.

But after seeing *the lack of* worn-away clutch material on the magnetic drain plug (seen as black slime) compared to what I normally seen on my drain plug with Mobil 1, the Redline Racing made me a firm believer.

BukvaMan

I am about to order Redline Transmission fluid. Im just having a hard time deciding 100% what to get.

At first i wanted to go with D4 to be safe, u guys recommend Racing TYPE F but not really when living in colder climates. I live in NJ. It gets cold but not crazy but i do mostly short trips around Town and im always in stop and go traffic. To be on the safe side more then anything else should i order D4 or go straight to TYPE F or mix TYPE F with light weight. * 2qt TYPeF(30304) + 1 light weight (30314) for each fill.
Im even gonna get some 5w-20 redline engine oil .

thanx for your inputs.

I hate cars

Redline lightweight is a type F. The only thing different from the "racing" is the viscosity. If I lived in your area I would use a mix of the lightweight and the racing. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt anything to run straight racing but it would be better to get it closer to the factory viscosity.

I've thought about calling the lightweight fluid "lightweight racing" fluid to clarify that it's the same fluid just lower viscosity.

BukvaMan

OK. So i guess 2 qt of Type F_30304 and one Lightweight Racing_30314 x3
is that enough or should i add another qt of typeF or lightweight to have for topping off.

Sorry to bother so much, just wanna be sure not to mess up things

thank you very much by the way

I hate cars

To get close to factory hot viscosity a 2:1 ratio will work. 2qts of the racing to 1qt of the lightweight.

I did a chart a while ago showing the different Redline fluids along with a traditional fluid and Z1 from operating temp to freezing. With the same hot operating temp, the synthetic Redline oils will be thinner at cold temps which is a good thing. Or another way of thinking of it is the synthetic oils don't thicken as much when cold.

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

I live in WI, and had the same question & concern (which yes i think it was answered by ihc in a few pages back) I to will do this same procedure in spring tho.

JackSampson

iTrader: (2)

My god do you drive at all or is this a 2nd car? I have twice the mileage as you on the same year car. I love driving my TL and I have 2 other cars to choose from.

rudboy00

So do you do this as 3 x drain and 3x fill?
or only one drain and fill?

I hate cars

I would mix 2 quarts racing and 1 qt lightweight for each drain and fill. I would do a 3x3, 3 drains and fills.

Just keep in mind you only need to be in the ballpark of factory viscosity. It's not that important to be exact with the viscosity since it significantly changes as the temps change. The transmission is not that sensitive to viscosity changes. Definately do the mix if you're able to but don't stress too much about it.

wilztlxs

iTrader: (8)

I originally did a 2x3 of the D4 and then did another 2x3 of the racing. Is this still okay? I live in Denver, Colorado, so the temps for winter can get pretty cold.

lusid

I should invest in Redline stock (if they were public) I'm sure their sales this year have been AMAZING!

I changed just did a 1x3 with just Racing ATF (Type F) and the difference is clear night and day. Granted I had 64k on the transmission with old OEM fluid in it. But the car shifts so dam smooth. Next spring I will do the 1x3 with 2 parts Racing ATF + 1part lightweight.

Lazer187

iTrader: (1)

Well I have a work truck that i get to take home everyday so, i dont have the mileage like most other people do. I do have my Roush Mustang, which only gets maybe 2-4k miles a year. i drive the Acura as often as i can.

djmanu

iTrader: (2)

i just did the 3x3 with redline racing ATF and it seriously makes an insane difference. my old fluid was pure brown and the shifts were a bit laggy and annoying at times. after the 3x3, i noticed a great improvement and the difference is felt instantly, seriously recommend it to anyone

rudboy00

I still have the Redline D4 sitting around, Is it still safe to use that ATF?
I might as well use this before getting into Racing ATF.

rudboy00

I did my drain and fill of Redline D4 today since I had it laying around. I bought it and was waiting to switch over from Z1. Since winter is about to start I had 2 gallons of this laying around and I did 2 x drain and fill.
Will this be allright for the winter, I live in Connecticut. It gets pretty cold here during Jan and Feb. So will the D4 hold up for in cold weather?

Also I noticed when I was doing the Draining. Where the Tranny meets the Engine i had some fuild coming out of that all the way thru, i am wondering is this normal or should I have the dealer look at it. I am at 46,000 its an 07 TL Base Auto. I was thinking since our tannys get so hot and so does the Z1 and it gets real thin and comes out?

gotkilled

iTrader: (1)

for those who did the drain and refill w the redline racing atf, were you able to check the fluid level after getting the transmission warmed up? Whenever I try to get a reading, the level is all off and very splotchy, making it very hard to gauge the fluid level.

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

I've noticed that too. It's all over the dipstick and hard to tell the level. I guess cause of the fact the fluid might be thinner I dunno. But my car shifts so smoothly though.

JLW TL

what redline tranny fluid is recommended for an 07 TL-s 6spd? also the 3x drain and fill is just for the automatics right?

Buda

iTrader: (1)

Got that too, however when I look on the back side of the stick there is a nice line of fluid there and it was in between the two marks for me.

I hate cars

You guys are seeing one of the many neat things about the ester base oil. It's extremely polar. It wants to stick to itself and to metal. I watched the flow of the engine oil through the valve cover over the head before I switched to Redline. With a very good Amsoil ATD, the oil flowed over the head and around the bolt like you would expect. When I switched to Redline of the same weight, it had a thicker (top to bottom) stream yet narrower. This is a very good thing. A grp IV full synthetic is not very polar at all. They have to mix it with dino grp II or III or a grp V ester to make it somewhat polar. If you ever tear an engine down, you can actually see that an ester seems to "cling" to engine parts longer after they've been sitting for a long time. Ironically, the cheaper grp I and II oils are nearly as polar.

CometVR4

My buddy just got a '07 TL. Transmission shifts fine. Should I recommend the switch for him also?

scottn3

IHC,
I just bought an '06 TL that has 166,000 miles on it. I know it is high, but this car has spend A LOT of time in top gear cruising on the interstate.
The car has had all the regular dealer maintenance and a transmission 3x3 with filter at 100K. Of course Z1 at the dealer.
What ATF would you recommend at this stage? The transmission has soft, normal shifts and seems to work well. I am going to install new sensors and am looking for the right fluid. I am thinking the Redline Racing over time, but am also nervous that it may cause problems. Would Amsoil ATD be a safer choice or possible the Redline D4?
Is the Racing type F a long term proven fluid?

I hate cars

I would do the racing fluid for sure.

It's got the lubrication end of things covered.

The only difference is you're going to get quicker shifts with less slip between shifts. This is a good thing whether the car is brand new or high mileage. I've run it long term in other cars that did not specify this fluid. In the TL I'm somewhere around 15,000 or so. I'll have to look up at what mileage I installed it. There are several others with this fluid, one is the turbo TL with double the factory hp and over 100,000 miles on the original drivetrain.

It's hard to realize exactly how bad the TL shifts until you put the racing fluid in it and then it's obvious. Once you put the good stuff in, you will wish you did it sooner. You realize how the TL slips and slides into each gear. Wear on the magnet is almost non-existant with this fluid.

Richie v6

Since my trans it on its way out would it be possible to use generic type-f fluid instead of the redline. I want to see if it helps but don't want to invest to much into it.

Inaccurate

Hi Rich,

For sure. No reason to spend the bucks on a dying trans. A generic Type-F will give you the same benefits of making the clutchs grab as best as possible. The expensive synthetics will offer better gear protection and longivity....which is not important in your situation.

nutnut

I'm curious about that too. Though my pack of Amsoil type-f is already being shipped, I would like to flush the tranny first with a cheap non-FM fluid, drive for a few day days to "wash" the internals throughout and then flush again and refill with the Amsoil.

is this the "right" non-FM fluid?
PETRO-CANADA ATF type F
Ford ESW-M2C33-F, Ford cars produced up to 1980

My tranny is on the way out too, I'm just trying to extend its life until I save enough $$ for the 6spd swap, so that could be an interesting experiment. The FM in the fluid could be potentialy required also for something else then just the slip shifting, and while the ester based fluid could work well there even without the FM, a generic could fail.

AtlM5

I'm planning on doing the 2:1 racing:lightweight mix. Are there any places that I can get a non-chemical(mechanical) tranny flush so I don't have to do the 3x3 and buy so much fluid?

I hate cars

A pressure flush can hurt the trans.

You can do it yourself by pulling a cooler line (if you have one) and letting it drain into a bucket with the engine running while you refill at the same rate it's coming out. You can get away with only using 7-8 quarts if you're good.

chayos00

Time for me to order my ATF fluid for my wife's TL. I was thinking of doing it similar to this style, but I don't believe her car has the cooler. Would I be left to doing the standard 3x3 flush? Or Do I have options?

I hate cars

I believe only the "S" got the cooler. You're pretty much limited to the standard 3x3 unless you install a cooler. There's a rubber hose on the side of the trans near the firewall where you tap in for the cooler. Probably not worth it just to do a flush but if you were going to do a cooler anyway...

scottn3

I am going to do a full flush and would like to get as much of the Z1 out as possible. I am thinking it will be worth my time to pull the fluid output line and let it run into a bucket. Can someone confirm that the fluid is pumped out of the banjo pipe that comes off the filter housing?