Project TL: Engine swap has begun!
#241
Originally Posted by chirik
So the MDX crank was SHORT. That is the reason? Pretty stupid IMO.
Not trying to knock you, but you have waisted all MDX internals (except CL-S pistons), time and money. Your shop should've place the MDX crankshaft right next to your stock one and see if there is any difference in length and what not before continue with assembly.
What this means now is that you have to get new '07 TL-S crank/all main bearings/rods and once the block is assembled bolt everything up again.
Holy sh#t that takes more money and time. So, now I'd rather go with new fully assembled '07 TL-S block and bolt everything up. Especially, when NEW COMPLETE TL-S BLOCK is only $1083 (acuraautomotiveparts.org).
Good luck!
P.S. And it was funny how some blamed Dr. Evil at first
Not trying to knock you, but you have waisted all MDX internals (except CL-S pistons), time and money. Your shop should've place the MDX crankshaft right next to your stock one and see if there is any difference in length and what not before continue with assembly.
What this means now is that you have to get new '07 TL-S crank/all main bearings/rods and once the block is assembled bolt everything up again.
Holy sh#t that takes more money and time. So, now I'd rather go with new fully assembled '07 TL-S block and bolt everything up. Especially, when NEW COMPLETE TL-S BLOCK is only $1083 (acuraautomotiveparts.org).
Good luck!
P.S. And it was funny how some blamed Dr. Evil at first
#242
that has to be one of the funniest things i have ever seen
Originally Posted by lookinco
So after waiting for all the parts to arrive, we finally began the engine swap. The engine is consist of:
1. 06 RL shortblock
2. 03 CL TypeS piston 10.5:1cr (you could use RL piston with 11.0:1 cr)
3. 07 TL TypeS cylinder head, camshaft, valves, etc
So far right now we have taken the stock engine out. It took us 1 day to do that without much trouble. The engine is HEAVY! We also sent out the RL short block to the machine shop so they could put in the CL TypeS piston. It will be back next monday.
In the mean time, I have filled the motor mount and transmission mount with polyurethane. We are also trying to figure out a way to install a tranny cooler while the motor is out.
Here are a few pics.
This is the stock engine
TL without the engine:
One man powered TL!
1. 06 RL shortblock
2. 03 CL TypeS piston 10.5:1cr (you could use RL piston with 11.0:1 cr)
3. 07 TL TypeS cylinder head, camshaft, valves, etc
So far right now we have taken the stock engine out. It took us 1 day to do that without much trouble. The engine is HEAVY! We also sent out the RL short block to the machine shop so they could put in the CL TypeS piston. It will be back next monday.
In the mean time, I have filled the motor mount and transmission mount with polyurethane. We are also trying to figure out a way to install a tranny cooler while the motor is out.
Here are a few pics.
This is the stock engine
TL without the engine:
One man powered TL!
that has to be one of the funniest things i have ever seen, thanks for making my day, youre crazy man.....lol
#243
Originally Posted by chirik
So the MDX crank was SHORT. That is the reason? Pretty stupid IMO.
Not trying to knock you, but you have waisted all MDX internals (except CL-S pistons), time and money. Your shop should've place the MDX crankshaft right next to your stock one and see if there is any difference in length and what not before continue with assembly.
What this means now is that you have to get new '07 TL-S crank/all main bearings/rods and once the block is assembled bolt everything up again.
Holy sh#t that takes more money and time. So, now I'd rather go with new fully assembled '07 TL-S block and bolt everything up. Especially, when NEW COMPLETE TL-S BLOCK is only $1083 (acuraautomotiveparts.org).
Good luck!
P.S. And it was funny how some blamed Dr. Evil at first
Not trying to knock you, but you have waisted all MDX internals (except CL-S pistons), time and money. Your shop should've place the MDX crankshaft right next to your stock one and see if there is any difference in length and what not before continue with assembly.
What this means now is that you have to get new '07 TL-S crank/all main bearings/rods and once the block is assembled bolt everything up again.
Holy sh#t that takes more money and time. So, now I'd rather go with new fully assembled '07 TL-S block and bolt everything up. Especially, when NEW COMPLETE TL-S BLOCK is only $1083 (acuraautomotiveparts.org).
Good luck!
P.S. And it was funny how some blamed Dr. Evil at first
#244
i'm giving you a heads up, you MAY need the TDC sensors since you are changing the plate. cross reference the part numbers for the TL and the MDX/RL and see if they are the same.
btw - my 3.5 build took about 3 months.
btw, everyone is hating, this build is going to be well worth it for him. 300+whp and more importantly 300 ft-lbs of tq, easily.
btw - my 3.5 build took about 3 months.
btw, everyone is hating, this build is going to be well worth it for him. 300+whp and more importantly 300 ft-lbs of tq, easily.
#245
Originally Posted by teekay3001
that has to be one of the funniest things i have ever seen, thanks for making my day, youre crazy man.....lol
Seeing you in our rearview mirror is the funniest thing that we ever seen !!
#249
Originally Posted by lookinco
Hey guys, sorry to disappoint you guys this time. We got everything back in, engine started up, and guess what, tranny still doesn't work.
We then asked my friend with a stock TL to compare and we FINALLY found out what the problem is.
The MDX/RL crankshaft is shorter !!!!!!!! Because the crankshaft is shorter, the whole torque converter assembly is shifted to the engine side for about 1cm, that's why the tranny didn't work. We located a drive plate from a MDX which should offset and move the torque converter back to it's orignal location.
I guess i am both frustrated and happy about this. We FINALLY found out what the problem is, and that when we put in the MDX drive plate we are also going to put in the Dr.Evil Torque converter so that don't go to waste. I am also going to return the new tranny that I just bought. (They sent the 04/05 one which was not really compatible anyways). The bad side is, this project is seriosuly taking FOREVER to get done.
I will be heading to california for 10 days today, so I guess I will update again once I get more news from the shop!
We then asked my friend with a stock TL to compare and we FINALLY found out what the problem is.
The MDX/RL crankshaft is shorter !!!!!!!! Because the crankshaft is shorter, the whole torque converter assembly is shifted to the engine side for about 1cm, that's why the tranny didn't work. We located a drive plate from a MDX which should offset and move the torque converter back to it's orignal location.
I guess i am both frustrated and happy about this. We FINALLY found out what the problem is, and that when we put in the MDX drive plate we are also going to put in the Dr.Evil Torque converter so that don't go to waste. I am also going to return the new tranny that I just bought. (They sent the 04/05 one which was not really compatible anyways). The bad side is, this project is seriosuly taking FOREVER to get done.
I will be heading to california for 10 days today, so I guess I will update again once I get more news from the shop!
#252
Hey guys, I don't want to impede on the thread, but can you guys please just go on this thread and just add your names to the petition even if you guys already have exhausts, whether comptech or not, whether you want an exhaust or not, i need names (bodies) to sign up on the petition so we can get GReddy to manufacture us a catback...Thank you for your cooperation. Here's the website:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153880
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153880
#253
Originally Posted by lookinco
Actually you are wrong. First we know the combo worked because people with the manual transmission got it to work perfectly. I am the first to do it with the automatic and thus no one expected to see this problem.
Secondly why would I have to buy new parts? LOL... All i need is a MDX drive plate that cost $50 new but I got it for free from a friend in the junk yard. All it does is offset the torque converter so it goes back to its oringal location.
Good luck getting the TL-S block to work, unless you are planning to get the TL-S tranny, or else it won't bolt up.
Secondly why would I have to buy new parts? LOL... All i need is a MDX drive plate that cost $50 new but I got it for free from a friend in the junk yard. All it does is offset the torque converter so it goes back to its oringal location.
Good luck getting the TL-S block to work, unless you are planning to get the TL-S tranny, or else it won't bolt up.
I hope I wasn't rude, cause it’s not my intent it’s just that I’m meticulous when it comes to major project like a swap. I helped my buddy to complete J35A1/J32A2 swap into J32A1 over a year ago and we analyze every possible detail before we even started. And once we put everything together it fit like a glove.
Honda has surprised many by pulling unexpected stunts with block changes between the models, however why would TL Type S torque converter case along with the drive plate be any different than regular TL? I would suspect the internal design changes inside transmission but overall fitment difference that’s new. Say second generation J-series (’01-03 TL/CL) block design is the same to TL-S/CL-S except cylinder liners used inside the block and different compression pistons. That block is even similar to ’01-02 MDX or ’01-04 Odyssey in terms of transmission and cyl. heads fitment and the differences are stroke and material used in cylinder liners.
Originally Posted by KaMLuNg
the price to pay in order to get what you want... especially being the first one to do this, madd props for all the information this will be providing for future people who would like to do this...
Originally Posted by lookinco
Btw, if you reallly do want to get a new complete TL-S block, i can get it cheaper then $1083.
Originally Posted by pohljm
WOW! now here is a post that completely jumps to false conclusions due to a lack of understanding, talk about the pot calling the kettle black!
#256
Originally Posted by chirik
WOW, genius you obviously have a hands-on swap experience and tons of knowledge to argue with my post I wouldn’t be surprised you have no clue what I stated along with listed parts
#258
I just got back yesterday and I will be heading to the shop in an hour. The tranny is out already so we are now measuing and double checking the new drive plate will be the right length, then it's just the matter of putting the tranny back!
Will update by the end of the day.
Will update by the end of the day.
#260
Today we measured everything up and got the drive plate to line up exactly where it should be. We put the custom Dr.Evil torque converter in and bolted the tranny and engine to the sub frame.
We will know soon if we can finally get this thing to run.
We will know soon if we can finally get this thing to run.
#265
well new update............IT's RUNNING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!
okay.....let me calm myself down. Will have more update and pics tomorrow after we finish everything up and quadrible check everything.
okay.....let me calm myself down. Will have more update and pics tomorrow after we finish everything up and quadrible check everything.
#270
Originally Posted by ludachrisvt
Just trying something new. I think without the blower he should have over 300 Hp
300whp seems like a lot for an NA auto J35, thats not to say that I wouldn't love to see the dyno for this unique swap while its still NA.
You should try extrude honing some of your parts Lookinco while your at it. Maybe the EP62 blower unit itself
#279
so..the car is running GREAT! Nice and smooth, no weird noise, perfect. I am keeping the engine under 3k RPM so i don't know how power is like up top, but low end torque seems to have improved. I took a ride in a stock TL to compare since the last time I drove my car was almost 5 months ago.
The VSA is on, which I believe is due to the fact that my allignment is off. Going to get it done tomorrow. Other then that, everything is perfect.
As for pictures and clips, it has been POURING lately for the last week so I haven't got any opportunity to take them. I will as soon as the weather gets nice again.
Side note, I installed the SPC camber kit in the front and it seems to be making some noise when my steering is turn left and right under slow speed. For those of you that have the same kit installed, do you have the same problem?
The VSA is on, which I believe is due to the fact that my allignment is off. Going to get it done tomorrow. Other then that, everything is perfect.
As for pictures and clips, it has been POURING lately for the last week so I haven't got any opportunity to take them. I will as soon as the weather gets nice again.
Side note, I installed the SPC camber kit in the front and it seems to be making some noise when my steering is turn left and right under slow speed. For those of you that have the same kit installed, do you have the same problem?