Pre Cats+Mount Installation Questions

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Old May 4, 2012 | 09:48 AM
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Pre Cats+Mount Installation Questions

So I am about to dedicate the entire weekend to installing the Pre Cats ceramic coated and my XLR8 75A Mounts. Im doing them both at once, I assume that would be the easiest way rather than later. I ordered the mounts for less engine movement and so that it has less of a chance of the welds breaking on the Pre Cats. My Questions are:

Pre Cats: Is it guaranteed to throw a check engine light? I thought Pre Cats come with something to simulate the O2 Sensors? So do I simply reuse the sensors? Just in case I got my car inspected today, so I'd be set for a years worth. I just want to get that part straight.

Whats the hardest part of the installation of the two jobs?

The place I go for inspection, all they do is hook it up to the computer and thats it. They never check lights, smell, oem cat etc.

Im just excited and nervous for this installation and wanted to have some things cleared in my mind. Haha!

Thanks guys for any responses to come.

-RL.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 09:51 AM
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pre cats will NOT throw a CEL if you install the o2 sensors properly and angle them properly. be careful transferring the sensors from your OEM cats to the pcd's...they are fragile.

hardest part of the install will be removing the rear OEM cat. it is hard to get to, but not impossible. the front is a piece of cake.

just get the DIY instructions off this forum and make sure you have the proper tools. you'll be fine.

i haven't done mounts, so i can't comment on that install.

good luck!
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Old May 4, 2012 | 10:02 AM
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What the guy with sharks breath said.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 10:06 AM
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When you install the mounts make sure you support the motor. Install one mount at a time and leave all the bolts loose until all the mounts have been installed. Torque the center bolts to 35-40 ft lbs of torque.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Excelerate
When you install the mounts make sure you support the motor. Install one mount at a time and leave all the bolts loose until all the mounts have been installed. Torque the center bolts to 35-40 ft lbs of torque.
Thank you! And great work on those mounts! They look great. And Thanks for everyone else's responses. I'll tell you all how it goes.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 02:23 PM
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Shark is the man
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Old May 4, 2012 | 05:39 PM
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I like to tape off the O2 sensor pickups and put a little antiseize on the threads, then

1. thread the sensor in finger tight to distribute the antiseize
2. remove the O2 sensor and clean off any excess antiseize
3. remove the tape and reinstall the O2 sensor *torqued to spec

Hopefully this will keep antiseize off of the O2 pickup and make it easy to remove the sensor later down the road. Also, antiseize all of the exhaust bolts. I use the Permatex stuff; copper for dissimilar metals, regular for everything else. I've never used the nickel based stuff, but I think it is better for exhaust fasteners.

Last edited by gwiffer; May 4, 2012 at 05:41 PM.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by RJNN TL
So I am about to dedicate the entire weekend to installing the Pre Cats ceramic coated and my XLR8 75A Mounts. Im doing them both at once, I assume that would be the easiest way rather than later. I ordered the mounts for less engine movement and so that it has less of a chance of the welds breaking on the Pre Cats. My Questions are:

Pre Cats: Is it guaranteed to throw a check engine light? I thought Pre Cats come with something to simulate the O2 Sensors? So do I simply reuse the sensors? Just in case I got my car inspected today, so I'd be set for a years worth. I just want to get that part straight.

Whats the hardest part of the installation of the two jobs?

The place I go for inspection, all they do is hook it up to the computer and thats it. They never check lights, smell, oem cat etc.

Im just excited and nervous for this installation and wanted to have some things cleared in my mind. Haha!

Thanks guys for any responses to come.

-RL.

i have mixed emotions about the precat delete. few have check engine light, dtc code was low efficiency of the o2, (bank1senor2) for ex. alot have swear they have no CEL for years. I dont know what to belive. but in the real world of work, i would replace the o2 sensor if a low efficiency light come on. the work seem pretty easy if you have the tools. faster if you have pneumatic tools. axle need to be removed, and fan shroud. take out the small stuff. Snapon Tools or Mac Tools recommend for a job like this.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 10:22 PM
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belive that believe has an extra e. that's a certain.

axle doesn't need to be removed, but supposedly rear heat shield does.

I kinda attempted this this evening but didn't have all the bolts etc...
you guys end up getting a new set of bolts that come with the PCD to connect to the Jpipe?! Are you pulling out the O2 sensors first and then the primary or primary first and swapping once off the car?! You leaving the jpipe on just undoing the primary bolts or full Jpipe removal?!

If I had nothing going on tomorrow, I'd be doing this mod tonight.
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Old May 5, 2012 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
belive that believe has an extra e. that's a certain.

axle doesn't need to be removed, but supposedly rear heat shield does.

I kinda attempted this this evening but didn't have all the bolts etc...
you guys end up getting a new set of bolts that come with the PCD to connect to the Jpipe?! Are you pulling out the O2 sensors first and then the primary or primary first and swapping once off the car?! You leaving the jpipe on just undoing the primary bolts or full Jpipe removal?!

If I had nothing going on tomorrow, I'd be doing this mod tonight.

Very good questions. I am just reusing the bolts and studs from my Jpipe, they came off with ease. Just PB'd them a bit. So first just to make things easier. Took the front bumper and shields off to see everything easier, and then I PB'd every bolt I could get to. And now I have the Jpipe, sitting there loose with no bolts.

So now Im about to begin the whole thing.

Now my only question is: Which should I do first? Engine Mounts or Headers?
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Old May 5, 2012 | 02:38 PM
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Since I have done both I will chime in a bit...first of all I have no idea why anyone with half a brain would even touch the axles, let alone remove them. That's one of the stupidest things I've ever heard. Secondly, please do not remove the bumper. It's not in the way of anything and unless you have midget arms, just leave it on.

I kinda forget about the O2 sensors, but I think I disconnected the wires and unscrewed them before I uninstalled the stock cats. Like sharksbreath said, front precat and mount is easy, rear is tougher...just remove the heatshield and work the angles when taking it out and be careful about hitting wires and hoses...same for the rear mount, its the toughest one but will come out with patience and finesse...and don't forget about the vacuum hose that's attached to the bottom of the rear and front mounts...

Hand tighten all bolts then wrench them...you do not need any stripped/crossthreaded bolts/holes.

If you installed everything (defoulers, wires, tighten everything to torque specs) correctly you will NOT get a CEL.
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Old May 5, 2012 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by the fenda rolla
Since I have done both I will chime in a bit...first of all I have no idea why anyone with half a brain would even touch the axles, let alone remove them. That's one of the stupidest things I've ever heard. Secondly, please do not remove the bumper. It's not in the way of anything and unless you have midget arms, just leave it on.

I kinda forget about the O2 sensors, but I think I disconnected the wires and unscrewed them before I uninstalled the stock cats. Like sharksbreath said, front precat and mount is easy, rear is tougher...just remove the heatshield and work the angles when taking it out and be careful about hitting wires and hoses...same for the rear mount, its the toughest one but will come out with patience and finesse...and don't forget about the vacuum hose that's attached to the bottom of the rear and front mounts...

Hand tighten all bolts then wrench them...you do not need any stripped/crossthreaded bolts/holes.

If you installed everything (defoulers, wires, tighten everything to torque specs) correctly you will NOT get a CEL.
lol its cuz kingkong_dav said it that y
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Old May 5, 2012 | 07:20 PM
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RJNN, I just realized why you're good...the PCD's come with the threaded piece coming off the bottom ready to be bolted to, no?! The e-shift procats don't...they just have the holes to run bolts...SOOOO...that said, I stopped at home depot to buy the grade 8 zinc coated bolts I'll use to bolt the HFPC's to the jpipe. I've coated those nuts with antiseize so they'll come off easily, I'm sure. Tomorrow, I'm going to Harbor Freight to see about getting a tap and die set big enough to retap the bottom rear 02 sensor hole...it was stripped by previous owner.

Does Richie give you guys new gaskets to go to the precat to the block?!?! I think i'm going to just reuse the oem ones (looks like there are metal ones on there?

Let us know how it went!
I'd probably start with the mounts since it'll likely give you more room to work!

I was actually thinking, if I was thinking of doing my valve cover seals...if I did that at the same time, it would probably give me the clearance I need to get the oem precats out SUPER easily!

Hmmm...decisions decisions...
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Old May 6, 2012 | 04:18 PM
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I installed the Pre Cats, just installing XLR8 Mounts now. Curious question, what is to be done with the vacuum hose to the OEM mount?
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Old May 6, 2012 | 04:26 PM
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Also on the mounts that look alike, why do they each say "R" or "S"?
Im installing right now, fast responses GREATLY appreciated haha.

Last edited by RJNN TL; May 6, 2012 at 04:35 PM.
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Old May 6, 2012 | 08:24 PM
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there's no difference between the front and rear and i had a problem when installing my side mount it did not come with bolts to secure the bracket to the engine
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Old May 7, 2012 | 10:09 AM
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Wow...RJNN, any tips for the PCD's?!?! I have a feeling I'm making it a bigger deal than it is to get that done.



J.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 10:32 AM
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rockstar, i followed this DIY.


https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/e-106-official-pre-cat-delete-how-diy-642953/
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Old May 7, 2012 | 10:54 AM
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Aaron, if you leave now, will you be at my house by Saturday!?! I'll buy you beer and even throw in $20 for gas.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 11:00 AM
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^i'm going to disney world in a few months...don't know how close you are to there...
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Old May 7, 2012 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RJNN TL
Thank you! And great work on those mounts! They look great. And Thanks for everyone else's responses. I'll tell you all how it goes.
Thank you.

Originally Posted by RJNN TL
I installed the Pre Cats, just installing XLR8 Mounts now. Curious question, what is to be done with the vacuum hose to the OEM mount?
Just plug it off.

Originally Posted by RJNN TL
Also on the mounts that look alike, why do they each say "R" or "S"?
Im installing right now, fast responses GREATLY appreciated haha.
Front and rear mounts are the same.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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I also just installed my pcd's this past weekend...The front is cake, but the rear is a big pita. But if you just take your time, it will work out fine. I took off the threads that the bolts screw on too and it came out smoothly...Let us know how you like the pcd...My came out really really raspy and im not sure i like it...Everyone is telling me that it sounds like shit...i dunno
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Old May 7, 2012 | 08:22 PM
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Does your butt dyno make you feel like it's worth it?! After going on that much of a mission installing it, I'd recommend throwing on resonators until you get rid of it!

Plus, I'm certain you don't want to reverse install that! I'm leaving the substrate in my, effectively making them HFPC's instead of PCD's...

Looking forward to this install.

Does the RV6 PCD come with another gasket that goes from the PCD to the engine or do you guys just reuse the metal oem one (I'm not talking about the ones that go on the bottom to the Jpipe)?
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Old May 7, 2012 | 08:30 PM
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yes they do come with new metal ones...yeah, i deff dont wanna do a unistall...lol...i will add a resonator and see what happens
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Old May 8, 2012 | 09:16 AM
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So I have only driven the car for about 20 mins max. So far, no check engine lights or lights at all. We'll see after so and so miles worth though. But jesus, that installation takes for frigin ever. I mean sure I was taking my time in some parts, but it literally took the entire weekend. The PCD's were definitely hard, but those mounts just made it that much harder. But doing them both at the same time was worth it. The car has a pull like none other now, and the car feels so much more planted as well as the shifts. The mounts don't vibrate much once you're moving, but if you lug it, I deff feel some vibrations haha.

So what I put in was:

RV6 PCD's
XLR8 75A Mounts
Engine Torque Damper.

There is rasp, sure, but I am definitely going to look into the magnaflow resonator. I think the sound is different and I'll enjoy revving it next to potential races in the future.


The ONLY frigin issue that was really bad and delayed the project was.. I had a wrench sitting on the engine block and the thing fell and hit the radiator and made a pinch in the vein, so I had to keep my finger there and plug it, then I used some JB and it stopped the leak. So NOW on my list of future purchases is a new radiator, what do you guys think? OEM or Aftermarket?
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Old May 8, 2012 | 09:21 AM
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I went to a junkyard to get a radiator.
if you check my "suspension thread" i punched a big hole in the radiator, and 94eg! suggested a new radiator the same price as i got it from the junk yard.

a new radiator from the dealer is $$300

i'll get you the link

Originally Posted by 94eg!
:lol:

It's all good buddy. We've all had our share of "stupid". Live & learn. At least you were smart enough not to buy a radiator from the dealer.

FYI: You can get the radiator directly from Denso for a lot less than the same radiator from Acura. Denso part number is 221-3231. They sell them for $145 at sparkplugs.com and I think you can find a coupon code for them too.

http://sparkplugs.com/results_cross....1-3231&x=0&y=0

Last edited by justnspace; May 8, 2012 at 09:24 AM.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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Curious. With the mods in my signature, what do you think my HP gains would be around? And I can only wonder how improved 1/4 is.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
Wow...RJNN, any tips for the PCD's?!?! I have a feeling I'm making it a bigger deal than it is to get that done.



J.
I initially thought i'd really follow the DIY, I ended up just being very cautous of the O2 Sensors and pulled the radiator fan out and a couple other things to make it easier. The back sure, it's a bitch, but it's really not all THAT bad. What made this project a bitch was the mounts... But hey!.... Saved myself a lot of installation $$$$.

Good luck my friend! You can do it.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RJNN TL
Curious. With the mods in my signature, what do you think my HP gains would be around? And I can only wonder how improved 1/4 is.
the throttle body spacer is junk.

but you should be around 270-280.

get your intake manifold ported and polished along with the runners, and grab the ECU...you'll be over 300hp.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
the throttle body spacer is junk.

but you should be around 270-280.

get your intake manifold ported and polished along with the runners, and grab the ECU...you'll be over 300hp.
Yeah, next is new Brembro Brakes and a new suspension (A-Spec) and then engine again. Haha. But I'm thinking about the pulley possibly next.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:36 PM
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the pulley is a great mod! i"ll probably do this when I do my timing belt in 20 years.

I have the aspec suspension, and its awesome!
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Old May 8, 2012 | 06:56 PM
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The lightweight pulley is next on my list too...for the stock sized one, there's a thread to get it for $140 shipped if we can get 5 people together. I'll have to look for it. Would either of you be interested in getting on the list for that price?! It's a Ralco one, which is fine...all companies start somewhere IMO, better than $220 for a Unorthodox one.

And Justin, about the TB spacer...you crazy bro...I dyno'd before it at 271hp to the wheels and 307hp after install. It was a mustang dyno. On a serious note, I heard all this feedback on it after...but it was after the person said they felt a drop in throttle response and honestly, I don't feel that way...not worth the mission of removing it, IMO...

RJNN...thanks for the words of encouragement, my friend, this is why I've been thinking I want to give myself the next weekend where I have a FULL weekend for install, not just rush it through. I guess I'll heed your warning and use a piece of cardboard to protect my radiator!

Also, your PCD's came with a metal gasket to go from the PCD to the engine block too!?! I'm trying to find out if my procats originally came with that and it wasn't included?! I already had the stripped O2 ports retapped by a good friend of mine and went to home depot to buy the hardware to bolt to the jpipe since that wasn't included.

Hope it goes smoothly!
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Old May 9, 2012 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
The lightweight pulley is next on my list too...for the stock sized one, there's a thread to get it for $140 shipped if we can get 5 people together. I'll have to look for it. Would either of you be interested in getting on the list for that price?! It's a Ralco one, which is fine...all companies start somewhere IMO, better than $220 for a Unorthodox one.

And Justin, about the TB spacer...you crazy bro...I dyno'd before it at 271hp to the wheels and 307hp after install. It was a mustang dyno. On a serious note, I heard all this feedback on it after...but it was after the person said they felt a drop in throttle response and honestly, I don't feel that way...not worth the mission of removing it, IMO...

RJNN...thanks for the words of encouragement, my friend, this is why I've been thinking I want to give myself the next weekend where I have a FULL weekend for install, not just rush it through. I guess I'll heed your warning and use a piece of cardboard to protect my radiator!

Also, your PCD's came with a metal gasket to go from the PCD to the engine block too!?! I'm trying to find out if my procats originally came with that and it wasn't included?! I already had the stripped O2 ports retapped by a good friend of mine and went to home depot to buy the hardware to bolt to the jpipe since that wasn't included.

Hope it goes smoothly!

Yeah it came with all new gaskets. For the Jpipe to PCD and PCD to engine. It was complete. Wonder why yours didn't? :/

Yeah I HIGHLY recommend entire weekend. It was a bitch, but man this car flies.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 08:32 PM
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I got mine preowned...but, that said, just found out from Josh that I'm supposed to reuse the factory gaskets...oh well, already ordered some fel-pro gaskets to replace them...

Can't friggin wait! If our car was fast to begin with...I can only imagine with 25 more hp than other TL's...it's going to be awesome.

THEN, I'm still getting the lightweight crank pulley..
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Old May 9, 2012 | 08:38 PM
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lightweight crank pulley for me next too after my pnp good luck to you guys
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Old May 10, 2012 | 09:50 AM
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^^^Wow, you're doing performance AND lightening the car...your car is going to be a friggin beast.
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Old May 11, 2012 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
^^^Wow, you're doing performance AND lightening the car...your car is going to be a friggin beast.


I gotta say, I love your engine covers. That gold orange type color etc. :P
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Old May 11, 2012 | 10:30 AM
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Thank you, sir...
I forget I even have them painted half the time...every time I pop my hood I'm like, hey there...nice!
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Old May 11, 2012 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
^^^Wow, you're doing performance AND lightening the car...your car is going to be a friggin beast.
i hope my car will be performance is whenever i have left over money but dieting is every saturday and sunday . but not this week because of some stupid asshole(S)
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