I just had it installed and not sure if installed correctly,should the curve go on the bottom or top side?Any feedback would be great!

 

The curve should go upright... Thus the P2R should be facing you and the little plug should be facing down.
My P2R spacers didn't line up correctly, the gasket on the right [driver] was a little off--but I think it's normal. I'm not sure about this, maybe someone who has more experience can verify this for me.

Also don't forget to plug everything back in... I forgot to do that while installing my spacer/gasket and cai---boy.. what a mistake. lol

 

I'd show you a picture.. but my car is in an auto-shop getting fixed. Right now I'm driving their Yaris... what a change. lol.

 

The letters are facing out,but I have staight on top,curved on bottom

 

Is that how your spacer is installed?

 

Uhm.. nope. As I said mine has it as... letters facing out[towards you]. Curved parts are facing upwards[towards the hood] and the plug it should be facing downwards.

 

The curve up or down shouldn't matter. Almost everyone installs it up and considers it normal. But a couple of people have posted that they had the curved part down and had no problems.

The gaskets are not symmetric. They have a "front" and a "back". Before installing, place the gaskets against the TB (gasket/TB/gasket) to make sure you have the proper alignment. You'll know when it's right because all three pieces will be "square" to each other.

 

is this really a hard install?? or just confused at to what exactly to do?

 

It's so simple, even I could do it.

There should be no confusion if you read the two Garage posts on this - One Video; One Notes.

IOW - if you can't figure out how to do the P2R, you better let somebody else work on your car.

 

sorry mickwest, dont mean to thread jack, but will the TB spacer make a different if you dont have a cai?

 

no difference, but probably easier to install without CAI

 

^ yes it will... anything to cool better = batter response... but you probably will have a headache with all that plastic during install

 

Hmn... I tested the alignment before I installed--it seemed to have matched up. Then when I installed it one of my gaskets was "sticking out" a little. Maybe I should go check it out when I get my car back.

I thought that it was the "right way" to have the curve facing upwards... since when you install it, the old gasket has a curve facing up as well. I thought it was also logical to have the plug facing down since most of the wires or sensors would be underneath.

 

Thanks for all the input,not sweatn it anymore!

 

^^

Some pics for anyone who comes later:

TB Installed (Note that the gaskets are aligned square with the TB Spacer and the "notch"):







Showing Top of TB and Back Side with Port:





Just to clarify: I also installed mine with the "notch" up. I think everyone considers this normal. The point I was trying to make earlier was that *at least* one member posted that they installed the "notch" down with no ill effects.

 

Hmn I mistakened the port for beind directly opposite of the curved part. lol I suck.
Anyway... I'm jealous! My gaskets didn't align 100% with the spacer.. Fiddled around with it and it came out the same way--no problems yet, though. Then again my car has been away from me for a full week.

 

i dont understand why this is such a problem. When you take off the stock gasket you should SEE how it was on; or at the very least the shape of the gasket should still be visible.....

 

Damnit, so I installed this morning, and I turned on the engine before attaching a hose back onto the intake. Car was revving awkwardly so I shut off, checked, and slapped myself in the head. I connected everything back and double checked this time, and the car still has the CHECK ENGINE light on. Is this going to go away?

 

Just a vacuum line, no big deal.

The CEL will go away in (*guessing*) 20 or 30 miles of driving. Give it a day at most.


BTW - the CEL code will stay in memory. If you want to hunt it down and kill it forever (i.e. permanently delete it) you've got to do it manually.

 

thank you bearcat, now I can rest easy. Can you elaborate more on the CEL code you speak of? Is it something the dealer can find out by diagnosing the car? How do you permanently delete it?

 

I believe as long as the Code is in memory the dealer can/will see it if they look using their scan tools.

I don't have the car here to step through it, but it's *something* like this:

- Press <MAP> <MENU> <CANCEL> on the navi buttons at the same time for ~5 seconds.

- From the Diag screens you want to find, IIRC, the XM HIP button/Option. Inside there is a menu option to veiw Engine Codes. Find the CEL Code and choose <DELETE>.


To avoid getting CEL's while modding, disconnect the NEG battery terminal BEFORE your start the mod. Make sure you have your Radio and Navi codes.

What *I think* happens is this: The battery is connected and powering certain electronic circuits/ECU, etc. When you do a mod and disconnect, say, the MAP Sensor on the Throttle Body, the ECU sees an "MAP Sensor Fault". This trips the CEL.

Of course when you finish the mode, you put the MAP sensor back, all is good, and the CEL eventually goes away.

By disconnecting the battery beforehand, the ECU never sees a MAP Sensor "fault", hence, no CEL.

 

try pulling the CLOCK fuse in passenger footwell area- thats the secret backup power to the ecu and forces a reset of everything-
just like mistakenly pushing the power button OFF on a home computer- it goes thru a systems check on restart
Will PM Josh, but if there is a company LOGO on one side- thats usually UP and` faced out` so it can be read by drooling people at car shows

 

Problem resolved, the CEL went away after 15 miles of driving. Thank you everyone, especially you bearcat.

 

it's odd, these days i am throwing CEL randomly, and when i take it to the service center, no codes were stored.

usually it's from stop to a very hard start (more or less pedal to the metal) - tho i dont do it often, it's kind of baffling me...why would CEL flash, and then like a few seconds later it'll go away, when i ease up on the throttle.

 

does anyone else have an obnoxious whistling after putting their spacer in?

 

I've heard of it, but never had it. The general concensusu is that it's from the port on the side.

Try to tighten the plug more or add teflon tape around the plug threads and re-install or buy a metal NPT (1/8" IIRC) plug at your local hardware store and install.

All I did was use the original nylon plug and tightened it down very snug with a pliers.

 

Dude, I tried tightening the plug, tefloning the plug, replacing it with a stainless steel plug with teflon on that, there's no way it's that damn thing.

 

:lol:

Right. Then it's not the plug.

Leak/gap in the gaskets?

Air getting into the Intake/Manifold elsewhere?

Something from a CAI?? (dont' know if you've got one, but many complain of them whistling).

You're sucking air over something, but I don't know what or where.