A noob stikes again
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Norton,OHIO
A noob stikes again
As the title states I'm a noob and am ready for the criticism, insults and hopefully the advice I'm looking for. So to eliminate some of the above yes I have been threw the threads and have read enough to melt my eyes and over saturate my brain with info. I will not ask what's the best way to get 5,000,000hp out of a 2008 TL-S I am aware it is the slowest year and yes its an AT. All I'm asking is for a simple call this guy, go to this site, and do this. I will not tell the community the huge lie I've seen on here that I have $20,000 to dump into 6yr old $17,000 daily driver. And I have tried to reach out to some members that well just didn't reply to me. So I reach out to the masses enough intro.
I've decided to go with the full Rv6 exhaust ...seen the gains and liked the sound. I've seen the 3.7 intake and TB mod idea I want to do that but I'm not positive on what intake (RL)? to buy or if I need to do head work prior to doing so. The rest I leave up to all of you good people. I just want a bit more umph N/A thanks to all that reply ......Oh and I want some good headers???
I've decided to go with the full Rv6 exhaust ...seen the gains and liked the sound. I've seen the 3.7 intake and TB mod idea I want to do that but I'm not positive on what intake (RL)? to buy or if I need to do head work prior to doing so. The rest I leave up to all of you good people. I just want a bit more umph N/A thanks to all that reply ......Oh and I want some good headers???
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 677
Likes: 132
From: Franklin County Virginia
As the title states I'm a noob and am ready for the criticism, insults and hopefully the advice I'm looking for. So to eliminate some of the above yes I have been threw the threads and have read enough to melt my eyes and over saturate my brain with info. I will not ask what's the best way to get 5,000,000hp out of a 2008 TL-S I am aware it is the slowest year and yes its an AT. All I'm asking is for a simple call this guy, go to this site, and do this. I will not tell the community the huge lie I've seen on here that I have $20,000 to dump into 6yr old $17,000 daily driver. And I have tried to reach out to some members that well just didn't reply to me. So I reach out to the masses enough intro.
I've decided to go with the full Rv6 exhaust ...seen the gains and liked the sound. I've seen the 3.7 intake and TB mod idea I want to do that but I'm not positive on what intake (RL)? to buy or if I need to do head work prior to doing so. The rest I leave up to all of you good people. I just want a bit more umph N/A thanks to all that reply ......Oh and I want some good headers???
I've decided to go with the full Rv6 exhaust ...seen the gains and liked the sound. I've seen the 3.7 intake and TB mod idea I want to do that but I'm not positive on what intake (RL)? to buy or if I need to do head work prior to doing so. The rest I leave up to all of you good people. I just want a bit more umph N/A thanks to all that reply ......Oh and I want some good headers???
Necessary Items
17160-RK2-A00 - Intake manifold
17140-RK1-A01 - Top plate (w/butterflies)
16400-RKG-A01 - Throttle Body
16176-RYE-A10 - Throttle Body gasket
92900-08050-3B - Throttle Body bolts (x2)
17105-RCJ-A01 - Intake Manifold gasket
Just in case Items
17181-RCJ-A00 - EGR Pipe (mine didn't fit so left it out)
90104-RCJ-A00 - IM bolts (x10) or reuse stock
95701-08065-08 - Bolts (x7) Don't think you need these
Your going to want a 4'' or 3.5'' cai. Also you may consider a jpipe and ported runners.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 677
Likes: 132
From: Franklin County Virginia
Former Sponsor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 492
From: Chicagoland
Here are your "header" options
Here is a quick RV6 crash course, this is rough draft that will eventually be added to the webpage. You can get more details on the rv6 website www.rv6-p.com
The order of exhaust components.
Heads (engine) > precats > Jpipe > 3rd cat > exhaust
Jpipe+3rd cat delete
The RV6 V3 jpipe is our latest design and has the best gains due to its 2.25" long runner design. It replaces both the factory jpipe and 3rd cat in one piece. No check engine lights are triggered since there are no sensors on the 3rd cat. It is recommended that you get the jpipe before PCDs or HFPCs.
Pros:
Good mid and high range gains
Replaces factory jpipe and 3rd cat in open piece
Bolts up no modifications needed
No obvious place for a 3rd cat.
Cons:
May not pass visual inspection in some states.
Precats
There are current 2 RV6 options for a precat replacement. These options are effective because Honda used a very restrictive precat design. They are made with stamped sheet metal to reduce cost and have a small 1.75" out.
Precat deletes or PCDs replace the factory precats with a straight pipe using smooth flowing castings a 2.25” outlet. Precat deletes include special adapters for the O2 sensors and do not throw a check engine light.
Pros:
Maximum performance gains
Low cost compared HFPCs
Cons:
Raspy exhaust
Exhaust smell
May not pass visual inspection
Requires an extra resonator for rasp free operation
High flow precats or HFPCs replaces the factory precats with high flow catalytic converters. They offer the best of compromise between performance and daily drivability. They are also paired with our smooth flowing castings 2.25” castings.
Pros:
No rasp
No exhaust smell
May pass visual inspection
Cons:
More expensive then PCDs
Slightly less power gains compared to PCDs
The order of exhaust components.
Heads (engine) > precats > Jpipe > 3rd cat > exhaust
Jpipe+3rd cat delete
The RV6 V3 jpipe is our latest design and has the best gains due to its 2.25" long runner design. It replaces both the factory jpipe and 3rd cat in one piece. No check engine lights are triggered since there are no sensors on the 3rd cat. It is recommended that you get the jpipe before PCDs or HFPCs.
Pros:
Good mid and high range gains
Replaces factory jpipe and 3rd cat in open piece
Bolts up no modifications needed
No obvious place for a 3rd cat.
Cons:
May not pass visual inspection in some states.
Precats
There are current 2 RV6 options for a precat replacement. These options are effective because Honda used a very restrictive precat design. They are made with stamped sheet metal to reduce cost and have a small 1.75" out.
Precat deletes or PCDs replace the factory precats with a straight pipe using smooth flowing castings a 2.25” outlet. Precat deletes include special adapters for the O2 sensors and do not throw a check engine light.
Pros:
Maximum performance gains
Low cost compared HFPCs
Cons:
Raspy exhaust
Exhaust smell
May not pass visual inspection
Requires an extra resonator for rasp free operation
High flow precats or HFPCs replaces the factory precats with high flow catalytic converters. They offer the best of compromise between performance and daily drivability. They are also paired with our smooth flowing castings 2.25” castings.
Pros:
No rasp
No exhaust smell
May pass visual inspection
Cons:
More expensive then PCDs
Slightly less power gains compared to PCDs
Trending Topics
Go with a 3.7 tb, intake, and ported runners. Those are the only intake mods you can do on a budget. You can regrind the cams and get springs and retainers. Bisimoto makes the cams. I think excelerate or rv6 sells the springs. Those two need a tune. You can get the AEM fic for a TL. Hondata can also fit, but i think it is for 6 mt. those tow are tuning options. Then a high flow catalytic converter (two of them). Then a rv6? j-pipe. This connects the two down pipes from the two sets of cylinders. Then you can add a 2.5in exhaust of your choosing. Without cams and springs, all of that might get you ~40whp on a good day. It will also cost thousands of dollars. Other options are $5000 supercharger or $8000 turbo. You will need the other bolt ons for either of those. This car is expensive to make faster. There is nitrous, but get real expert advice on it; like a chemist who also likes to race.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 677
Likes: 132
From: Franklin County Virginia
Go with a 3.7 tb, intake, and ported runners. Those are the only intake mods you can do on a budget. You can regrind the cams and get springs and retainers. Bisimoto makes the cams. I think excelerate or rv6 sells the springs. Those two need a tune. You can get the AEM fic for a TL. Hondata can also fit, but i think it is for 6 mt. those tow are tuning options. Then a high flow catalytic converter (two of them). Then a rv6? j-pipe. This connects the two down pipes from the two sets of cylinders. Then you can add a 2.5in exhaust of your choosing. Without cams and springs, all of that might get you ~40whp on a good day. It will also cost thousands of dollars. Other options are $5000 supercharger or $8000 turbo. You will need the other bolt ons for either of those. This car is expensive to make faster. There is nitrous, but get real expert advice on it; like a chemist who also likes to race.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 244
Likes: 47
I've done a complete turbo kit for under 6k installed and tuned on a customers TL b4.
If you do your homework and take it to a shop who knows what there doing and has very reasonable rates it can all be done for 4.5k.
Anyways OP doesn't want to go boost.....
I'm sticking to my original Suggestion :
Get a :
Aem Cai aem v1/v2
Rv6 v3 PCD's
Proper j-pipe / cat back exhaust.
Perhaps a Rv6 true dual setup
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
From: Jur-z I-95 Ext. 9
Jman192, you and me both on the noob. Also I couldn't write a better intro than yours. I'm also here for the same reasons, more or less. I don't have $20k to dump in my car, but little by little Jada will get her upgrades. I wish you the best on your build Jman192, hope to see pics of your car's metamorphosis
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