Juan Antonio

I hate cars:

Actually, the Vampire is the correct version for the GN. The control wires simply tap into the existing coil negative signals.

It would be similar to the connection for an Electromotive XDI-2:
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/Instru...mpireXDI-2.pdf

m.t.123

Hey ACKTL05..."Do you have Pre-cats? If so, they would create a smell."

You're saying that pre-cats would cause the coolant smell? Forgive me...but can anyone tell me what pre-cats are? Lol, sorry...

Inaccurate

Here is the info for the pre cat deletes (PCD). Listed in reverse chronological order (new to oldest). You will want to purchase the new V3 PCD, which is that top most link. To learn about precats, it would be best to read the last link first and continue from bottom link toward the top link.

Introducing RV6 V3 Precat Deletes Taking Deposits (click here)
Taming the beast! PCD Rasp (videos posted) (click here)
RV6 V2 Precat Delete Interest (click here)
Pre-cats and low end torque (click here)
RV6 (Richie) PreCats **Groupbuy** (click here)
Precat-deletes V2 install (click here)
RV6 V2 Precat Delete (click here)
Precat Deletes + Upgraded Jpipe + No 3rd Cat + Stock Exhaust = very sexy exhaust note (click here)
E-106: Official Pre Cat Delete HOW TO DIY (click here)
Precat Deletes (click here)

Comptechtl2367

Just wondering if i installed RDX injectors if the ACM would make up for the larger injector... or it this would be a pointless upgrade running stock PSI (5lbs). I am going to buy the F/IC which i know i can control them with but the ACM from comptech is pretty much useless from what i understand.

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

well your right on one thing, the ACM is pretty much useless... get yourself a set of rsx-s injectors if you plan on staying with the stock pulley, then look into a meth kit (if you dont already have one), FI/c, along with all the other supporting mods (exhaust mainly) jpipe, catback, pcd's etc.. and with a good tune, you should be around 350whp/ 300tq.. not to shabby for running a measly 3-4psi

Comptechtl2367

I thought the stock pulley ran 5 psi?
I have all the exhaust mods done already and i plan on getting a set of RSX-S injector (are the plug and play?). I know nothing about tuning so i am having a friend do it for me so sorry if i have some noob questions!

I hate cars

If there's only one thing you do, monitor knock. Nothing else will make or break (literally) your engine. Too many others, in fact all others have gone down the same path and end up with blown engines. The other option is to octane the hell out of it. I would run meth injection even with the stock pulley. You can never have too much octane.

Comptechtl2367

The meth injection from what i have heard is slightly a bitch to tune... i am most likely going to get is as i do plan on running the HBP but a little nervous about getting it right. I have built alot of honda's but never really worried about tunning as they are cheap to replace!

I hate cars

You will be replacing the J beyond a doubt without a good tune. Meth is beyond easy to tune. Anyone that has a hard time setting it up should not be working on cars.

You run the recommended jet for your hp. Turn it up until you lose power and then back off a little. It can't be any simpler.

Comptechtl2367

Thats what i figured considering it seems like everyone has it if they have a S/C tuned correctly. I am reading the Mega Manual from Megasqirt. I hate not knowing how to tune. I am learning more then i think i can ever remember!

I hate cars

You'll get it. It's a little overwhelming at first and then one day it will all make sense.

It really is as easy as I said. It gets a little more complicated if you decide to fine tune but you can get 90% of the benefit from 30 minutes of tuning.

wantedTL/TS

Meth is fairly simple to tune for. I tune a lot of Cobalts (Turbo and SC versions) with meth and as long as it's not placed near the MAF then you won't have any skewed readings from getting it soaked.

You also want to use the correct nozzle (gph). Too large and too small defeats the purpose. A fail safe that most meth kits have is a must IMO if you aren't using the windshield washer fluid tank for your meth reservoir.

wantedTL/TS

The best kits I have come across are AEM's believe it or not. Devil's Own is gabage as I don't see long term durability and reliability with it.

Comptechtl2367

I was looking at the AEM kit as well.
Now i want to keep my washer bottle becasue i use my car so ill have to find a place to hide the tank!

wantedTL/TS

You can still keep your washer reservoir with the way I hook them up. That's the beauty of it.

I hate cars

alkycontrol.com. The best, most reliable kit out there. I've used it for over 6 years without a failure. The other kits caused blown headgaskets because of their reliability issues.

Nozzle sizes are listed for the amount of extra hp you plan on making. With the variable pressure pumps all you have to do is get it in the ballpark and turn the pump up or down.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I chose to use the washer fluid tank so that I can keep the meth out of the passenger compartment. I'll put another tank somewhere else like the trunk for the washer fluid.

After reading about IHC's encounter with a trunk mounted kit and reading up on how toxic meth is, the choice was a no brainer.

I also went AlkyControl. Julio answers questions immediately, even on weekends.

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

stock pulley is rated at 4-5psi, but once you start opening up the exhaust and putting less cork in the system, the psi will drop. your psi should be around the same if you did every exhaust mod.. dont you have a boost gauge?

take a look at my boost on the dyno, spikes at 4.5, but most around 3-3.5 across the board.


and yes rsx-s are complete PnP. no modifications neccessary

tuning with meth injection couldnt be any simpler. i have mine set to spray at 2psi on up and its been working great for me.. been on the same tune for 2 years strong

regarding meth kit,
everyone will give their opinions on which meth kit is best. yes, some are made with better materials, but in all honesty, the AEM kit is good enough.

also if i were you, i wouldnt even bother with the HBP. i sat on mine for years, cause my goal from the get-go was to push 350hp/300tq, which i ended up accomplishing without it, so i sold it. sure you might gain an additional 20/20 from it, but you will need to spend some $$ to upgrade your fuel pump, injector size and not to mention you'll be using up ALOT more meth, all for such minimal gains. anything over 350hp in this platform is totally useless anyways IMO

m.t.123

Innacurate...thanks for the Pre cat delete info...I won't be going that route though. Just gonna hope that by spring, AEM has a good ECU available that can help my baby run surge free...Merry Christmas everyone. We'll chat soon.

Comptechtl2367

Thanks for the advise 04Accordcpe. I was going to use the HBP so i could keep my underdrive pulley on the car. i figure this was i would be running more like ~5-7psi. My plan is to install a boost gauge when i put the kit on along with an AEM wide band, That way i can see my A/F and boost to see which i like best (Stock pulley and 5psi pulley or HBP and Underdrive)

Juan Antonio

I just received a test report from a 300zx shop in LA. They posted three short clips on you tube.

Runs one and two were the same conditions. Run one shows the bargraph gauge, run two shows the knock-finder.

Run three, they lowered boost about one psi resulting in less knock retard, as expected.

Another run (not shown), they retarded timing three degrees in the ECU, eliminating knock retard.

In all runs, no knock could be heard, even in the headphones, yet the system responded correctly.

The unit was connected to the factory "donut style" sensor, similar to the Bosch, but made by NTK.

One those cars, the factory ECU ignores the sensor above 3000 RPM.

Link to first video:
http://www.youtube.com/user/specialt.../2/NpoMhUUCDAA