screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

The .002 I was referring to was that your 3.5027 measurement of your stock piston is .002 smaller than the low end of new OEM spec of 3.5029.

I hate cars

Thanks. Looking forward getting this thing working.

For 500hp:
Pistons are necessary regardless of compression if you intend to have fun on the street.

Rods are toothpicks. Just like the pistons, what they can do for a 1/4 mile at a time is not the same as running the car on the street. Rods are needed if you plan to have a reliable street car.

25psi is double what's needed.

E85 is not needed and would cost a ton in fuel system mods not to mention finding a gas station would be a pain, and gas mileage would drop 40%, severely limiting the cars streetability.

Traction control can't beat a good driver not to mention it can be harder on a trans depending on how it's implemented. It's very hard to implement correctly on an aftermarket turbo car. It's a waste of money.

I would add stiffer intake valve springs to the list even at the stock rev limit.

With the intake tract flow and taking the lower compression into account, 14psi will land this car right in the 500- 550whp range which is totally attainable on straight 91 octane. A little meth for safety is a good idea but this hp goal is attainable on a very mild tune.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

My bad on the double post. Don't know why the first one didn't appear for me, but it should be .0002.

IHC, you say 25psi is double whats needed? The turbo in the JnR kit csn flow enough at 12.5psi for 500 hp? Are you meaning crank or wheel? I thought it was too small for whp at that PR. I usually refer to whp and thats the terms I think in.

With regards to e85, other than regional differences (its everywhere here), what other changes does he need? Hes doing a return fuel system so bigger injectors and thats it. I disgree with using mileage in a performance scenario so ill leave it alone.

We can agree to diagree on the pistons and rods, but I do agree on the vavesprings. Granted, I think some restraint is needed, I.e. the typical 5th gear highway rolls I wouldnt suggest. Im getting old I guess because I dont do that.

Just as you say e85 isnt for a street car, thats my view on meth. I understand the safety, but I'd do e85 before meth.

Different strokes for different folks.

I hate cars

14-15psi should hit the number with his heads and intake setup.

I usually don't consider mpg in a performance application but when it's a 40% drop for no gain it's a big deal. The lower compression will hurt his mileage by about 4% but otherwise the car will get near stock mileage when driven nicely on gasoline. E85 drops mileage by 40%. Couple that with spirited driving and you're talking about the potential for 5-10mpg average. With easy freeway driving it's going to drop to 13-15mpg on E85. If the car is a daily it's going to have a very short range.

Then you have nearly every fuel system component that needs to be upgraded to survive E85 not to mention you need 50% more flow so injectors have to flow twice as much, you need twice as much pump, etc.

Then there's the availability of E85. In my area and within 100 miles it's nonexistent. With his 9:1 compression he should be able to run the 14-15psi on straight 91 with meth being there for insurance.

Gasoline plus meth retains mpg, is refillable everywhere, does a better job of cooling the charge air, and it allows almost as much boost as E85 but without requiring a specific timing map and different target AFR. Spool is usually hurt with E85 too.

The factory pistons don't hold up under boost. They will physically hold up to the cylinder pressure at lower temps such as running 1/4 mile and cooling in between runs. They don't hold up when you're driving in stop and go with pistons running around 400F to begin with and then doing a 1st to 4th gear full throttle run once the road opens up.

Rods usually break on the exhaust stroke when they're under the most tension. The turbo actually helps with this by increasing cylinder pressure on the exhaust stroke. However, they now suffer from deformation on the big end from compression under high torque and outright bending and then breakage.

It's worth it to build it right so you don't have these restrictions. If running the stock internals it would be highly suggested to run a large oil cooler and a larger sump.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Well, you are right as usual......ring gap is already @ .024 and the recommended gap for boost is .0192

Have you been getting my emails? I've sent you a few and just want to make sure you're getting them.

Take care of your own stuff, I just had an uncle who died from a heart attack today so I'm in a similar situation. Honestly getting a bit burned out trying to get this all figured out. Maybe walking away for a couple weeks will help.

I'll decide once I hear about the factory block

I hate cars

I'm sorry, I have been getting them. Just read them now that I'm home. Usually I'm bored at work. Today it was crazy.

So it sounds like it's just a case of excessive cylinder wear going by your top, top cylinder measurements (if I'm reading that right) and by your excessive ring gap. There would almost have to be a noticeable ridge on the top of the cylinder.

I think the block is the right thing to do, seeing how it's relatively cheap. I know it sucks and this is t what you wanted but I think you just put the community a little closer in understanding the failure mode of the stock J internals under boost.

Hang in there, it will come together and you will have a great streetable combo and ZR1 power.

I haven't studied the J series but if any machine work is required it would be deck or align bore/hone or cylinder bore/hone or all 3.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

No worries, I completely understand. Things are a whirlwind around my life as well. Part of the reason I keep saying forget what I just said........

I don't think it's worn because there isn't the typical ridge at the top of the cylinders. I'll have to take all the measurements again, which I haven't done, just the tops and then look at the service limits in the manual. If they are within spec the limits then chances are unless the block is raw, I am suspecting I will still have excessive limits with these pistons.

I'm checking to see what the TAT is for a off the shelf design with just a modification to the skirt.

May have some high end paperweights leftover.

The other disappointing thing is I ordered injectors off ebay, brand new and they sent the wrong ones. So I now get to fight that battle as well.

I can see why Libert69's build took so long. I wish bmeyer were still around, I would be interested to know how he got these pistons to work.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

^ Thanks, for me it's a moot point. I've never seen a pump around here with E85. Just the standard blend everyone else is getting.

I hate cars

The only thing I was wrong on is I was thinking pure Ethanol in my head when I wrote the post for E85. Otherwise I stand by my statements.

You said it all... "at stoich". Now what is stoich on E85? Thank you.

Ethanol energy content PER GALLON is 76,100 btu.
E85 energy content PER GALLON is 81,800 btu.
Gasoline energy content PER GALLON is 114,500 btu.

You could be a politician with your manipulation of figures. You state energy content at stoich. You don't do this when talking mpg.

Notice, I said spool is "usually" hurt with Ethanol. Timing and AFR can be carefully manipulated to bring most of it back and significantly surpass gasoline but just making the swap will hurt spool. BTU content of the fuel does not directly affect spool.

The general rule of thumb is to double your fuel system requrements when making the switch to E85. Just like you don't run your injectors static, you leave some room to grow. With E85 you leave more room to grow.

You're right on the timing both in normal driving and under load.

Back to MPG. You state a 50% loss in mpg on E85 is "not even close". Compare new car stats. I was going just on calculations. It appears I was off, at least compared to new factory cars. I said 50%. The actual looks between 25%-35% loss in a stock car. It looks like highway mileage takes the largest hit. Under relatively high boost, running richer than most factory cars, the loss is going to be magnified so consider what factory cars lose on E85 to be a best case scenario. An individual tuning a 500whp car that came from the factory as a NA car on gasoline is not going to hit in the 25-35% loss range of a factory car, it's going to be lower.

Here's the first thing that came up on everyone's favorite educator, Google: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/byfuel/FFV2013.shtml

No hard feelings. I'm aware you guys are in the background watching everything I post, waiting for a chance to yell in all caps that I was wrong as you did. Now tell the truth, did you get your information from that horrible engine basics website that looks like it was put together by a 10yr old for your facts? It might be beneficial to find a different website, just trying to help.

Now for the good. E85 allows things that gasoline does not allow. *If you know how to tune on it*. Just converting to E85 will hurt spool a little and this is how most guys are going to run it. Most of my guys see lower EGTs which is probably where the losss of spool comes from before optimizing for E85. Now, by tuning and forgetting most of what you know about tuning on gasoline you can surpass spool of gasoline but most import guys don't know how to tune well (sorry but it's true) so in most cases E85 will hurt spool.

Now here's what it can do with someone that knows what they're doing. All GNs spool very well but this one was a little quicker in the E85 video shown here, after lots of tuning.....

http://s137.photobucket.com/user/MJR...62608234960423

I hate cars

From my video I must have been researching on my local forum? Get over yourself. I've talked to those guys (you know, real life, on a phone) in the past when I was tuning an E85 car for someone. I didn't run over to turbo Buick to learn more after reading your wonderful information.

I didn't forget anything. E85 has a far lower energy content. When comparing mpg, you don't have to take stoich into account. Stoich is what allows it to make comparable power with a lower BTU content but it's not a factor in mpg. The octane is what allows it to make more power on a turbo car that can raise the boost to take advantage. Read what I write instead of skimming over.

And no, that site is garbage. It is compiled of very bad articles by someone who does not have the real world knowledge to sort the good and the bad. Unfortunately it's going to mislead a lot if people who don't realize the author just copied and pasted various website articles and called it an engine building site. I wonder how I would go about getting it removed.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Update:

Block comes ready to install, no machining required.

So I am ordering custom pistons and returning the pistons I already have.

Gonna take 4 weeks to produce.

I hate cars

You haven't been right once so no, that's not what you do. Would you like to get into the truth of that website and what you really do for a living? I'm sure people would love to know your lies and your little secrets that I've known all along. Admit that you've been misleading people or the truth comes out today.

I'm sure you've been slammed doing these conversions when you don't know the basics. I feel sorry for your "customers" if this is true. My guess is it's a lie as is your entire identity.

I don't care what E85 "should" do vs gasoline. Look at performance numbers for flex fuel cars. Notice the vast majority are quicker on gasoline.

E85 has the *potential* to make more power because you virtually can't make it detonate. People are able to run more boost and timing than even with C16. I've run 35-36psi on C16 with a ton of timing. If I find the need to run more boost than that, E85 might make more power.

Let me reiterate, E85 will usually make less power with all else being equal. Some make more. The difference in either direction is so small no normal person would notice or care unless of course you're trying desperately to win an argument. It's the octane, it's resistance to pre-ignition and detonation that allow more power when timing and boost are optimized.

Here's your old friend google, the one that horrendous website steals from. Notice the performance difference in gasoline and E85:

http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/...ison-test.html

Here's an import crap magazine quoting the 40-50% increase in fuel system requirements which is exactly what my experience has taught me and exactly what I said from the beginning. Maybe I need to read Google more often....nah. The real world is good enough for me.
http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp...onal_gasoline/

Your problem is your arrogance and inexperience prevents you from seeing the big picture.

A quick question, do the better engineers usually work in the industry or in a highschool classroom? Just curious.

Almost forgot, is it right to refer people to your own writings under a different identity as "proof" you're right?

See, I'm not such a bad guy, I've kept your lies a secret all this time but I think your time has come.

I hate cars

No, you post your opinion as fact and you ignore every fact I post proving you wrong. There were a couple links in my last post that proved you are wrong and of course you do not acknowledge them.

Now you want to answer my question? Where do the good engineers go? The highschool classroom? From your pimply faced look you cant be older than early 20s. What company do you work for that pays the annual fee for the SAE papers you claim to get for free? Is it just a little unethical to lie about what you do and to refer to your own website for proof you're right?

You've done nothing but lie about your identity, your profession, that horrible website that you refer to without telling people ITS YOUR WEBSITE. You're a highschool teacher, not a field engineer as you claim.

Want proof, I've got the pictures and the websites to prove who you are and what you do. Trying to pass off your own website as a valid reference all this time, you should be ashamed of yourself.

Why would anyone believe anything you say when you've been lying to everyone all along. It goes back to some guy who reads a few websites, believes he's smarter than he really is and goes around giving advice and acting arrogant with no real world experience. I guess lying about your identity and profession along with creating a website that "agrees" with you is supposed to give your opinions weight. You have no integrity.

I hate cars

You lied about what you do and you lied about YOUR website. I knew your were a liar because too much of what you said just isn't true. You say things like most would with only book experience but no real world verification. You probably fool most of the people in here but I read what you write and roll my eyes most of the time. Just a poser trying to act like you know a lot more than you do.

If you really have that education I suggest getting your money back if some poor redneck with no education can run circles around you. I have nothing to lose, I've never been a highschool teacher claiming to be an engineer. I've never claimed to have more than a highschool education. I've only been lucky enough to work with and for some of the best in the industry with some very humble beginnings. Maybe you could hire me to straighten out all of that misinformation on your website. I'll start by deleting it from existence.

In case you forgot, here's how you came into this thread: WOW SO MUCH BAD INFO GIVEN ON E85! You could have approached it much differently but you were excited because you thought I was wrong and I'm aware you and a couple others are always lurking in the background just waiting.

You have the usual pattern of ignoring every point I make, every time I prove you wrong you just move into a different topic without acknowledging you are wrong. When that doesn't work you take something I say out of context or twist my words to try and make me wrong. So don't act like you are on here to exchange information. In real life you would get bitch slapped by most people for coming on that way. I used to think you were here just to annoy me but I'm starting to realize you're so arrogant that you literally can't believe or accept the fact that you might be wrong so you ignore and move on.

One example is the fuel system that you size 50% larger when going to E85. You are stuck in the book world where flow increases 25-40% so you called me out for saying you need 50% more capacity in the fuel system. In real life it's well known you increase volume by 50% to get the necessary headroom and safety margin on E85. I even posted a link proving my original statement was right, the one that you were so quick to point out was wrong and of course, you didn't acknowledge it. You make too many statements like this that proves to me you haven't done half of what you claim.

About your age, I just wanted to point out you look about how I pictured you, the number was not my point. I like to picture how a person looks based on their Internet personality. It's a little game I like to play. Take it however you want.

Don't worry about KN. I have a feeling he's doing ok. Call it a hunch. Also pretty sure he can get the mods to erase all of this BS. I do feel bad for all of this, it's why I've taken most of it to email because I fully understand I will have my fan club ready to attack if I forget a comma or have an opinion that you don't understand and then it all goes downhill from there.

Now come back with some smartass remark but remember to ignore the website you failed to mention was your own.

I will delete all of this if you do but I don't think that's possible.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

IHC, I'm sure you will take this the wrong way, but I don't intend it in a bad way, but you come across the same way as you are portraying flexxer. One thread that comes to mind instantly is Tony the Tiger's thread - your first comment was that you can't get over the lag, and how yours is so much better. Just as you said with flexxer, you could have approached it differently but you were excited because you though Tony's build was wrong and... That thread devolved into you yelling how he doesn't know you or what you know instead of what had started as a good discussion with someone that HAS already built a 700+ HP J series. Yes, you'll no doubt inform me that an engine is an engine, and that is true, but every platform has its differences. It would've been nice to have some legit J series FI info, rather than merely turbo buick data. I've got experience with FI Ford, GM, Subaru, & Honda, but none of it is the J series.

I know you are very knowledgeable, and have contributed much to this forum, and have much more yet to contribute, yet you seem to have some internal desire to be validated and must prove to everyone on azine how knowledgeable you are, and that you should not be questioned or that there should be any differing view.

You don't like E for your car, but you do like meth. E isn't available to you, and that is understandable. I accept your reasons for you not liking E, but I disagree with them and I believe it is a phenomenal addition for tuning FI cars. In the Subaru world, you can exceed MBT and not detonate on E. Heck, the TL can't even REACH MBT N/A without detonation. There is benefit to E. I don't like meth because I don't like the risk that it incurs. Pump failures, having to refill it, etc. You even said before you blew up a motor when a meth pump failed mid-run. That's too risky for me. I'll sacrifice the mileage and gain the insurance.

You need to face the reality that everything you say is not gospel, nor is it all correct. I know you've learned things and changed your mind on things over the course of 8 years on this forum, and so have I. We'll all continue to learn things if we can have civilized conversations and not let threads devolve into pissing matches and name calling.

With that being said, back to KN's build. I have a question for you - his OEM pistons measured under new spec. Could that be the factory coating wearing off? Granted it was only 2 ten thousandths - .0002 (isnt that 2 ten thousandths?) I'd also like to know what you determine to be tight tolerances vs loose in engine assembly. You said it was a myth that tolerances are tighter and that 60s SBCs had the same tolerances. Well, not one to trust the internet (not you, its just my inquisitive nature) I looked them up. The 'tight' end main to oil journal tolerance on the J32 is .0008, while a 60s SBC is .0016 to .0018 on the tight end. Granted its all relative because you are talking about .0008 in. but since that is twice as much, wouldn't that be considered tight? I'm asking in all seriousness as I know you have more experience on the engine assembly side of things than I do.

My buddies and I do all our own work except for engine assembly and paint.

I hate cars

I have nothing bad to say about your post. If everyone could approach it that way, we could exchange information without the fighting.

Just a couple things... You're right on the risks if methanol. I have a wall of blown headgasket and a couple of those are from the nozzle plugging. The reason I recommend it for this particular build is with the low comp he's likely going to be able to hit his HP goal on straight 91 with the meth being a bonus. I don't suggest anyone rely on it as I do where it's 20% of my total fuel and a failure means headgasket failure or worse. That was my reasoning for KN. If it were an 11:1 build on 25psi I wouldn't recommend meth, at least not without letting the owner know the risks.

About Tony, I specified I did not mean to insult him and I said it in the nicest way I could. I debated saying anything because I figured it would be taken badly. I did not say his setup sucked in all caps with exclamation points as flexer did. There's a huge difference in how I approached it and how flexer approached it. The lag really is awful. I was curious what his goals were and the last thing I wanted to do is offend him. Hell, he made more hp than me. I just couldn't live with lag all the way to redline. What's wrong with pointing out the lag? I know everyone else was in awe in that thread but it doesn't change the fact that it's poorly set up if response is the goal. For example, his car is making half the power of a good turbo setup at 4,500rpm even though his peak power is great. Power under the curve is extremely important for a street car, not so important for a race car.

What got me going was his crazy assumptions in that thread that I'm some dumb drag racer who doesn't know anything about spool and transient response. In fact, I've spent so much time perfecting mine to where it spools and responds extremely well. The whole reason I went to a bigger engine (4.1 and a 4.5l in the works) is not for power, power is easy. It's to ensure it has excellent response at any rpm under all conditions. Spending so much time and money to build a very responsive setup, maybe you can see why he rubbed me the wrong way with his assumptions about me instead of just asking. Go look at the tread. He was talking about me, telling people where I was coming from (a drag racer with no comprehension of transient response) as if I wasn't there. It's a bit arrogant.

I don't care to be validated. I don't get my info from Google so people can either choose to believe me or not. You also assume I only have experience in the TR world. While I've driven one since highschool in '94, I've worked in the LSx Mercedes turbo V12 and Ford modular world quite a bit. It's a little depressing because it reinforces how much better and easier it is to make big streetable power with a turbocharged V8 or medium displacement V12s but that's what makes the V6 stuff fun I guess. I've seen the TLs head and intake flow numbers. I know what it's capable of. If you go back to the original turbo thread from years ago before there was a turbo J, I was spot on with how much power it would make at a given boost. I was also the one trying to convince everyone that the bottom end was good for more than the 300whp it kept blowing up at with the poorly managed comptech blower setup. Each engine family has it's own quirks but it is true, and engine is an engine. Experience with each engine family is important but I can predict with good accuracy what the J is capable of both in power and reliability.

When you mentioned E85 on this car I dismissed it because it's just not necessary for 500whp and 15psi on a 9:1 engine. I didn't say I hated it. In fact, if I had it available and my turbo car was just a toy and not a daily it would be on E85. I got some really cool things out of E85. You seem to think I only look at the TR world but those guys love E85. They also like to run triple the boost of most turbo setups.

The coating is definitely worth looking at. I have to go back over all of KNs dimensions and get back with him today. To be honest, I don't know if the ball was dropped with the piston maker not taking into account the stock pistons were coated. Maybe Bmeyer planned to get them coated. I've spent too much time in this thread instead of helping KN.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

After looking at everything, the stock pistons were .0022 larger than the pistons I bought and I have to assume that bmeyer was using a coated skirt to compensate for this difference. I also have to assume that he ordered different rings because I can't see him running a .024 gap when .019 is recommended (top ring).

Right now, I am in a waiting game. I was able to return the pistons I ordered because they were off the shelf items which were sent out today.

My assumptions at the moment are:

Worse case cylinder is 3.5055"
CP recommended clearance is .0035"
I add another .001" for hone removal of material (.002" on the other cylinders)
Cylinder bore will be 3.5065 and subtract the .0035 clearance will leave a skirt diameter of 3.503.

I bought a different dial gauge with .0001 resolution so it's easier for me to look at these numbers and will do all the bore measurements again and may end up changing some of my assumptions.

I'm not placing the custom order until the returned pistons are accepted, then it's 3-4 weeks to produce.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

First of all, again, I see some familiar names in here stirring up some chaos instead of lending some advice in a pleasant approach. I spent nearly four days writing up and organizing a j-series spec and measurement thread for everyone to pull accurate info off of but decided not to post it because there's too many people here that wouldn't appreciate any of it. Not trying to be negative here but this is really ridiculous. Especially seeing it from long time members who at one point use to be what most would consider a "valuable" asset to the forum.

To K&N, its good to read that you're still running hard with this build. I don't know the full story or details on the incorrect piston specs but if it hasn't been mentioned yet, the best way to give a piston (or whatever the part may be) manufacturer the correct numbers is by purchasing a new oem piston and sending it directly to them. This way the specs can be pulled directly from the part and this would of course take into account any coating thicknesses. When this approach is used, if the custom part has tolerance issues once installed, the manufacturer would be responsible for the fault.

Also for what its worth on ring gaps, I recently read an article/study put out by a very respectable ring manufacturer that was made years back on ring gap and its overall affect on an engine. To summarize its point, the article talked about dyno runs and exhaust analysis taken from engines that all ran the same parts over and over again with the only change each run being made to the ring gap. Each engine went on to the end of the study running some 3-5 times the width of the manufacturer suggested ring gap with nearly NO CHANGE made in both power and oil blow by...there weren't even any negative results if I remember correctly. I'm running an all oem internal 3.7 right now at double the width at 15lbs of boost and have had ZERO issues or symptoms.

Can't wait to see this build complete. Keep up the drive.

I hate cars

I know you hate the drama so much yet you've got to get your .02 in. My value is not determined by a few know it alls that sit in the background waiting to jump on any mistake they think I make. Flexer is a smart guy, my only problem is in his approach, not whether or not he agrees or disagrees with me. I'm going to defend myself when someone approaches me that way. When someone wants to exchange information like screaminz28, I'll do that too. My knowledge hasn't changed just because the demographic of the 3g section has changed drastically as the original owners have gone away. I love it when a thread dies out, I'm not posting, flexer isn't posting, screamingz28 makes a nice post, everything is finally ok, then someone comes in, stirs it up, and then goes on to talk about how ridiculous the drama is. All you had to do is talk about the ring gaps if you hated the drama so much. With that out of the way, here's my .02....

I've mentioned in the past and probably in this thread that there's little downside to running a large gap especially in a turbo engine. Power isn't the issue as a little leak by with a cylinder full of pressure isn't going to amount to much. It will dirty the oil quicker and cause elevated oil temps. I've dealt with that in the past and even had to run a larger cooler and a larger sump but that was with a very large gap. I now run gapless in my current setup. A large gap will show up in leakdown tests so the loss is there, it's just not noticeable in the real world. For the first time, my oil is still golden when it's time to change it with the gapless setup.

I'm not sure if you just brought this up to help out or if you took my other post out of context but I asked KN to look at the gap as another way of double checking his cylinder measurements, not as an absolute pass/fail. However, if the engine is apart, you might as well do it right.

You need to be more specific in your wording. You're running a stock internal 3.7L at double what width? The factory ring gap? That's not really an apples to apples comparison because it was not a factory turbo engine. If it came from the factory turbocharged and you doubled the gap, measured leakdown and power before and after, you would have something valid to compare. For all we know, the ring gap might be the same as stock under operating conditions with boost.

Also, 15psi doesn't mean anything. What power level are you at, or how many times the stock power are you at? It's the power that determines the gap requirements, not the boost level.

The point of running more ring gap on a turbo engine is to end up with the SAME gap under normal operating conditions taking into account the hottest conditions it will see. Just like with the forged pistons and more cylinder clearance. You're running a lot of clearance when cold because the forged pistons are going to expand a lot more plus they're expected to run hotter due to the additional power being made. In the end you're shooting for the same or close to the same hot piston to cylinder clearances as stock which means more cold clearance.

So I pretty much agree with you on the gap thing. It's always better to have too much over too little. The worst thing that will happen with too much is more frequent oil changes, hotter oil, and an immeasurable loss of power and mpg. None of which are bad compared to broken ring lands. The factory of course, likes to run as tight of a gap as possible. If it means just .01mpg gain x 500,000 cars sold they're going to be happy.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

IHC's, I honestly didn't even read any further than the first few sentences of that post.

I'm sure you made some really interesting points though....good job.

TRUE STORY.

I hate cars

So what's new. I'll try to use smaller words next time. In reality we all know you read the whole thing and conceded. Thanks.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Kurt, I hope you get this beast of a motor working...

@ your build...

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

IHC's, I love you.

I hate cars

I love you too.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

It's been almost 4 weeks, returned off the shelf pistons, CP waived the restocking fee, ordered custom modeled against stock profile except larger skirt diameter. They were shipped and on their way to the dealer. Should be here by next week.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Finally back to the engine. Spent a day cleaning the block and crank. Found these 100% IPA lint free, snag free wipes. Very pricey but work great.



Here are some quick pictures getting ready to plastigage the mains.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

More delays......open up the lower set of bearings. Two of the 4 have nicks on them. So off to order replacements.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

simione

iTrader: (2)

gotta love that. I had to order 5 different green mains to finally get one that didn't have a knick on it when I was building my motor. Does honda just throw a ton of them in a box loosely expecting that flimsy little plastic bag to protect them?

UTAH TSX

Looking good I,m subscribed to this now

FamilyGuy

Don't give up buddy keep it going

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Anyone know of a source that stocks factory main and rod bearings? The place I have been using (Bernardi's in Boston) is very good, but they have to order them which is almost a week long deal.

I may also need to get different rod bearings. The ones I have are perfect but being fairly new at this, I overlooked the fact that the Pauter rods may be different than the factory ones. One good thing is all the rod stamps were the same and the only variation was with the crank. I am hoping the machining @ Pauter will be good.

UTAH TSX

I woul recommend taking the crank and rods to a machine shop and measure them it will be cheap 20-30 bucks and they usually will do it wile you wait then you know it will be right I always use aftermarket or the OE green (std size) and they seem to always be in spec

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I've got the tools to do all the measurements, just haven't gotten that far after realizing a few things last night. Pauter manufactures their J-rods as factory replacements and I am going to rely on what a plastigage tells me as the final judge.

As far as bearings, I'm going to stick with OEM. Even though it appears the condition of what you get may vary, I would trust that more so than aftermarket. You don't use the stamps on the block/crank/rods as to what bearing to use?

UTAH TSX

I like the ACL race bearings and they only come standard or under sized for turned cranks but thats just my liking not claiming to be some super engine builder most of what I do is factory stock stuff (I work at a Honda dealer)

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Just out of curiosity, how do you purchase ACL bearings for a J32? Like most things in the J-series world, nothing is packaged for it.

If the next bearings I get are dinged up as well, I may try something different.

UTAH TSX

(sorry all the boosted stuff I've done is the normal Honda 4Cly stuff)
I cant believe they don't have any J series bearings WTF wonder if they are the same size as the k series

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Thanks

Yeah, it's pretty frustrating. Everything has to be related to a 4 banger and hope you can purchase separately. It's getting better with this platform becoming more popular but it's nowhere near the availability of the 4 cylinder market.

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

I occasionally get damaged parts too. Once I got a new door trim panel that was cracked along one edge but the box was perfect. Somewhere along the line the parts are getting abused. I buy all my parts at a local Acura dealer now (that gives me a discount) so that I can return stuff easily if it's broken.

UTAH TSX

This place shows ACL bearings for the J series ???
http://tbmotorworx.com/tb-motorworx/bearings/