Hello all,

I have an 07 TL-S 6mt and am looking to build my J35A8, as I have recently acquired a new daily. Before I get hate for not J37 swapping, let me just say I am trying to save money by building the engine I already own.

My concern / question: I see from research people use J32A3 or J35A7 blocks to create this stroked J36 but have not yet found where someone has used a J35A8. Is there a reason for this? I am beginning to think that it will not be compatible.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thank you.

 

A J35A8 is actually perfectly compatible. People typically use J32A3 blocks because of the trans bolt pattern. But they also typically don't realize the incompatibility of the crank, with regard to the flywheel flange. Do some research here on Acurazine on various J36 builds. See the last few pages of this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...utches-906678/

And this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...lease-1005671/

Starting with a J35A8 makes good sense. You will already have the pistons that you need, so the only J37 parts that you need are crank and rods.

 

Thanks Brock! It looks like you have done some serious R&D on clutch setups. I took a read through that ultimate clutch setup thread.. From what I understand, I do not have to worry about a clutch issue as the 3.5 and 3.7 flywheel are the same on the ring gear, meaning I can run a complete J35A8 clutchmasters setup on a J37A1 crank, is that correct?

I appreciate the thread links. I need to dig deeper as I still am curious if I need that spacer from P2R to make it compatible.

Hope all is well.
-Curleefries

 

Genuine question: why are you considering stroking to a 3.6? The benefits from a 3.5 aren't that big. Why not just do a J37 swap instead? The engine bolts right up with the addition of very minor adjustments. While the j37 is potentially more expensive it's also less work.

 

@o4Komodo again, I’m not J37 swapping… I’m building my j35a8.. I’m still trying to find an instance of where someone else has done EXACTLY what I am doing with the 2 engine codes..

trying to figure out if I need the p2r spacers or not.

 

You do not need the spacer. Even if you were building an engine with the older block style, the spacer is a bad idea. That should be evident from the other J36 build thread that I linked to.

 

Yes, i get that. And I'm asking why do you want to j36 stroke it when a j37 swap is far more beneficial? a j36 stroke on a j32 makes sense but less so on the j35.

As for your spacers that's entirely optional and has nothing to do with stroking the motor.


edit: I should rephrase and ask: What's your end goal? Besides from saving money why do you want to go out of your way to stroke it to an extra 0.1L instead of rebuilding as-is or using that money to other maintenance/mods? As mentioned stroking the j35 to a j36 is a bit of work and for the gains to be had it's not necessarily worth the hassle unless you already had to tear apart that motor anyway. This is the reason why people don't stroke the 3.5 to a 3.6---because it makes more sense to spend that time, money and effort into a j37 swap.

 

Thanks, and yes, those threads made that clear. I'm just the kind of guy that wants to hear it 10 times before I pull the trigger on anything.

Besides the point I will try to stay on topic with the thread I created. It sounds like there is literally nothing that I have to machine / change /modify when dropping in the 07-08 J37A1 crank, rods, and bearings into the J35A8 block. It also sounds like I do not have to worry about any clutch issues either.

Thanks again for the help. Those threads had some good info in them, and I even found an answer to a separate problem I am dealing with in regard to my half shaft bearing and differential carrier bearings. (Low speed shake when laying into throttle. All gears, shakes in the floor from 35-50 MPH).

Regards,

Curleefries

 

Thanks Komodo,

You are right... I should be more open minded to your questions. I think you are right about putting all this work into making a 3.6 when the 3.7 is already so easy and simple to swap into the 3g type-s manual chassis.

Not too sure of my end goal. Just immediately want to fix my oil consumption issue and do a refresh at the same time.

I appreciate the insight,

Curleefries

 

FYI, a J36 is more than just 100cc over a J35. It's 112cc, to be precise. And the longer stroke and higher compression ratio (11.3) will result in torque comparable to a J37. It's a perfectly good plan.

 

If your main worry is oil consumption and you have the money then I'd go ahead with the J36 stroker build.

The J37 is notorious for oil consumption. With a J36 stroker build you'd be rebuilding/refreshing the motor and have a better piece of mind in regards to oil consumption (versus the J37 at least).

 

Not to step on the OP’s toes but I also have a question on a j36 build.. so I have a full j37a1 and a full j32a3 engines, I wanted to see if I the crank, rods, heads off the a1 would be straight drop into the a3 block with the a3 piston since the piston size differs from the a1 block to the a3.. going to be running rl cams. Any help would be appreciated.