I just got my heads ported polished and shaved, anyone else had any head work done? And if so how did u retune it

 

wat exactly needs to be re-tuned?

 

What does shaved mean? I've never heard of that before now.

 

Bigger valves??

 

Shaved generally means that they take a few thousandths of material off of the entire bottom of the head thus creating a smaller combustion chamber and effectively raising compression.

 

you mean decked? how many MM did you do it?

 

Shaving is used to true-up the deck surface during rebuilds and to raise compression. The last thing our engines need is more compression. We can not hardly utilize the oem 11:1 compression without knocking. And where there is knocking, there is power loss and potential engine damage.

 

$5 says all he did was port and polish the intake runners...

 

It is running lean lots more air no more fuel i shaved it 30 thousands and no not any bigger valves. Only did it because i blew the head gaskets and it was now or never

 

No DA i did not polish the damn intake

 

It is running lean lots more air no more fuel i shaved it 30 thousands and no not any bigger valves. Only did it because i blew the head gaskets and it was now or never

 

sooo, im curious? not trying to be an ass but, u did this again because

 

Curious. What caused the head gasket to fail?

 

Im going with the Yeti treatment until I see pictures/proof.

 

.030" is a lot. This was a bad idea unless you plan on running race gas. These things already push the limits of pump gas with 11:1 compression.

I'm sure it flows more air at a given throttle opening and manifold vacuum from anything above idle. A good place to start would be 5% more fuel everywhere on the map and tune from there. It would seem like the 02s would eventually compensate unless you're past the range of adjustment.


Since the headwork will raise fuel requirements *almost* linearly you can try raising the fuel pressure and let the 02s pull back the idle fuel.

Just an FYI, "decking" is what you do to the block to make sure it's flat and put a good surface on it for the headgaskets to seal to.

Not a bad idea to get the intake ported to compliement the heads.

 

Thanks for the advice i hate cars. Don’t know what made the head gasket blow. It was the front head and it had two bolts loose in it. The threads were pulled out of the block. I ran it hot a few times i got a pos thermostat from advanced and it was broken. And i did it for the hp increase

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKYhPUBuUIU
here is my car

 

good lookin car

 

Thanks

 

Are you trying to sell your car now? That's what the video made me think. BTW I like the wheels. What are they?

 

No not trying to sell it and they r ADR. That's all i know

 

Looks like they are either Phantoms or Cypher style. They look good.

 

well played

I like the painted back.

 

 

Holy southern accent

Good looking ride.

As far as the tuning goes, the only tuning software for the TL is the AEM EMS system but it is a standalone. They run around $2k plus install, rewiring and tuning. You are running lean because you have way more air than the motor is calibrated to run on. Honda/Acura ecu's have an open loop and closed loop system. When you are cruising, the ecu takes a/f readings from your O2 sensors and determines the proper amount of fuel. You should be fine to drive it around town in this mode. Now, when you floor it, you run off your base maps that are programmed into your ecu. These do not self calibrate. Well, they do a little but nowhere near enough for this kind of mod. Now that you have way more air flowing into the motor, it is still running the same fuel trim as before, thus running lean. Based on your accent, I am going to assume you are in one of the hotter southern states and this makes running lean even more dangerous due to being more susceptible to detonation. If you can't find anyone to tune it then you could go the APEXi V-AFC route. These are pretty old school but they let you manually add/remove fuel at 500rpm increments as well as control the vtec crossover point.

These are just my thoughts but the J-motor is an expensive platform to be jacking around with unless you really know what you are doing. I would say with your compression being around 11.8:1 now, 93 octane is going to be a must have unless you severely retard the ignition timing (defeating the purpose of the mod).

Tuning is key here. Excessive compression is not that big of a deal as long as it is properly tuned. My SCCA car is running a B16 with 11.2:1 comp with 16 pounds of boost from a GT35R turbo. You just have to tune it properly and it will last.

 

Not true. AEM also offers an F/IC that works with our car. The GREDDY E-Manage series has been known to work as well. Though at the current point in time, neither unit can tune for closed-loop conditions (anything less than 100% throttle). The EMS is compatible with the engine, yes, but not with the chassis. It cannot control the gauge cluster among other things. It's basically race use only.

I'm working on a module to enrich the fuel mixture under closed-loop conditions utilizing the F/IC, but it's going to be a while before leaning the mixture happens.

 

Do u guys think if i just supercharge it that comptech could program it into that piggy back harness that comes with the kit

 

Absolutely NOT. That ACM is the biggest POS on the market now. I wouldn't trust it to run my engine under anything other than idle. At WOT, that unit has been known to run as rich as 9.X:1 which is enough to wash down your cylinder walls and cause premature failure of your engine.

Even though the F/IC isn't ideal, it's an absolute MUST if you're running any sort of mod that will alter your air/fuel ratios.

 

Sorry, I was just going off what I have seen for these cars. I am more of an OBD-0 and OBD-1 guy haha

 

No worries. I realize that getting much accomplished on these cars is a bit of work and just wanted to make sure that people know what they're getting into before they make the leap - and to hopefully weed out some of the guys that think they can get away "on the cheap".

If only I had known what I know now before I had started... It's like they say, "Speed costs... How fast do you want to go?" except it seems to apply ten-fold to these cars.

 

We got crucified on another thread when it was mentioned that the supercharger kit had crap tuning.

 

I'm actually getting kind of pissed with all the thread crapping lately. We've had some of the best technical discussions going around lately, yet we've had thread-trolls dumping all over them. Makes me not want to post anymore.

 

Haha, you think it's bad here? Try going over to bimmerforums...a vast majority of those guys are complete douches. So far, I love this forum

 

Bmeyer what kinda power u putting down. And what r ur times in the 1/8 and 1/4

 

@04 silver bullet

347 whp on the 3.2L @5.2 PSI - I still need to get the new setup on the dyno. I'd love to see 380+ whp. We'll see though... I've yet to take it to a strip. Not sure if it's something I'm really interested in.

BTW, I've been on bimmerforums before. There's a reason I own an Acura... Though this is slowly turning into the same thing...

 

So is the comptech worth the money Bmeyer, mine put down only 250hp untuned. I have only the aem cold air, the atlp j-pipe,race pipe and the head work. It put down 217 stock. So 33 off the mods untuned i think i could get another 15 easy when i figure out what tune i need

 

Unfortunately we've seen many come and go because of this. There are a few who either battle with the best of them or can ignore the trolls. It's too bad it can't be better, but I guess it can be worse.

 

@04 silver bullet

That's a loaded question... Personally, if I had it to do all over again, I'm not sure which route I'd take. The sound of the S/C throughout the powerband is unreal, as well as the linear power. If you've got the money to spend, and want a reliable 65-75hp, then tune the CT S/C with the low-boost pulley and F/IC. If you're looking for monster HP, get the J&R turbo. I personally don't like the ramp-up of turbos for a DD luxury sedan like this, but that's just me. (I'm not saying anything against the J&R setup, I love it. I really do.)

The topic of S/C vs. turbo has been debated at over and over and I'm not going to get into it here. It all comes down to personal preference and what you want out of your car.

One other issue that I think you really should look into is knock monitoring/management. Inaccurate has had a LOT of priceless info lately about knock monitors. Read up on it. These engines produce knock in stock form - it's nothing to shrug off. Seriously. Take a look at the data in those threads and decide for yourself which route you want to take (monitoring vs. management). And THEN decide if you want to boost or not, and if so, whether turbo or S/C is right for you. Either way, plan on spending some serious coin on your setup in order to get it reliable in the long term. It's not just about the cost of the F/I setup that you chose, there gets to be a lot of money tied up in tuning, gauges, computers, etc...

 

Very true. I'm not sure where I stand yet. I have a million better things to do than battle internet trolls all day long. Especially when I'm trying to do things to *help* them.

 

Yea i have heard them on youtube they do sound good.if i were do pick it would be s/c for sure. I had a 94 ls v-tec turbo on 12 pounds and it stayed torn up since the tl is my daily driver i might just keep it as is. I still do alright on the street