jweb12

iTrader: (2)

Finally got a chance to install my J-pipe, Race Pipe and Quad Exhaust. Overall I'm very pleased but had/have some minor issues I wanted to get some feedback on.

1. When I was tightening the front flange (nearest the front bumper) of the J-Pipe I incrementally torqued the bolts but the front nut, on the side that has two, didn't seem to pick up the same as the other nuts. It seemed just about as tight as the others (I torqued the nuts to 40 ft-lbs which is the stock spec.) but I never reached 40 according to my torque wrench. The reason I didn't keep going is becuase I noticed the amount of the bolt extending below the nut was noticeably longer than the other two which were already torqued properly. It almost seemed like the bolt was being pulled through the pre-cat/j-pipe flanges. Is this even possible? I'm baffled by this.

1a. Just so I'm sure, since Mike provides gaskets, you do not reuse the stock gaskets between the J-pipe and the stock pre-cats, correct?

2. When I bought the J-pipe I wasn't aware there were different hanger locations. It wasn't until the XLR8 pipe came out, with the multiple hanger mounting locations, that I realized this. I actually bought this pipe before the XLR8 pipe was released (yes, it took me awhile to get it installed). Anyway, I assumed that since people (Base and Type-S) had already been using the ATLP J-Pipe, there wouldn't be a problem. After installing the J-Pipe I found that the hanger bushing is kind of crushed, for lack of a better term, due to the angle/length of the hanger rod. For those that have installed this pipe on a Type-S, is this how yours is also? And, for anybody that knows, will this cause any problems?

3. After everything was installed I drove for about half and hour. Everything seemed to run fine until I got onto a road through the woods. I intentially went down this road so I could roll the window down and listen for the sound of the exhaust reflecting back. What I noticed was a squeal, like a sreeching belt but not as loud, under light acceleration between ~2200rpm-3000rpm. This noise goes away when I put my foot in it, regardless of rpm range, but it's noticeable under normal slow acceleration. Does this sound like a leak? I read a lot of the posts before about the RV6 "hiss" from the batch of faulty flex pipes but they all experienced the "hiss" at WOT so I don't think this is a similar issue. Also, it's more of a squeal and not a hiss. It's clearly noticeable but not obnoxiously loud. Any thoughts?

4. It's too early to make a decision since this stuff just went on today, but this setup may be louder than I want in the end. I intentionally went with the race pipe first figuring it would be the louder end of the spectrum and I could change to a test pipe or high-flow cat later if I found it to be too loud. There is more cabin drone than I was hoping for so I will likely be trying a different option for the 3rd cat. I like the sound of a good exhaust, but it's pretty overpowering right now. I still need to look into this on the forums, but figured I'd include it with this post. What would be the best option for this setup to cut the drone and cabin noise?

Sorry in advance for the long ass post, but I wanted to describe everything as clearly as possible. I'm going to talk to Mike about this stuff when I get a chance but I wanted to hear what you guys had to say too. Looking forward to getting these issues resolved and fully enjoying this system. Can't stop peeking out the window to look at the tips!

Thanks,
Jim

Bearcat94

1. Happened to me too. Not an ATLP problem. When you removed the OE J-Pipe the bolt partially backed out of the sub frame. You can put two nuts on that bolt "back-to-back" and tighten the bolt unitl in bottoms out in the subframe, then torque the J-pipe nuts to spec.

Also the lock nuts are *supposed* to be replaced per the Service Manual. At about $0.10 each no reason not to.

The hiss could be from that front bolt not being tight.

Do NOT re-use the stock gaskets; only the ATLP supplied gaskets. Make sure they align properly between the flanges. A little grease to help hold them in place won't hurt anything, but might smell a little for a few miles.

2. Pretty sure my hanger is perfect. It wasn't, but that was installer error ( ). You have hang the pipe on the hanger first (use some liquid wrench or WD40 as lub), then tighten everything down. If you tighten the pipe first, getting the hanger on right is impossible.




.

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Bearcat. Looks like I need to get back under there and fix that bolt. I didn't think about it backing out when I removed the original nuts.

I did pick up new nuts from the dealership for attaching the pipe to the pre-cats. One thing I noticed though is that they say in the diagram (Posted by Richie) I had with me that they are self locking, but these looked like plain nuts. Not like the self locking nuts that came with the rest of the ATLP stuff. But, they matched the stock nuts I removed. Not sure how they are self locking.

I put the hanger on before anything else. I have a picture on my phone I was going to email Mike to ask him about it. I don't keep an online account so I don't think I can post it here. Maybe I don't have the hanger positioned in the right spot on the rod, I'll have to double check it when I fix that bolt.

If anybody has any other ideas/input on these issues I'd like to here them.

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

3. Me and blackura have the same "rasp" you are hearing, but also we have the precat deletes, you dont. I'm pretty sure its only because you don't have a resonator or a cat. But I may be wrong

4. You can add an aero resonator, it will cut down on the drone and bring out a deeper sounding exhaust, ask ssmtl about it, he has 2

golfjwr

I too experience the same hissing every now and again, however it seems to have subsided a little bit.

Bearcat: do you think its an issue that we didn't use a torque wrench to get the bolts at 40lbs? We pulled pretty hard on those bolts.

Jesse

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

^ I thought you did the exhaust only, not the j-pipe or race pipe. I wouldn't think there would be any unexpected noise from that.

NedShneebly

Is your squeel more like a 'whistle' than a hiss? That's about the same RPM range that the CAI whistles, if you have one.

golfjwr

jweb12: Yes you are right all I did was install the exhaust, however I do hear a hissing.

Ned: I do have an AEM cai, but the noise I hear is not from that.

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

What I have is not like the CAI whistle. I installed the AEM a few months before putting this stuff on so I know it's not that I'm hearing. Like I said, the sound I am getting sounds a lot like a squealing belt, just a lot quieter. I know it's hard to describe sounds in words so my interpretation of the sound could easily be what somebody else is calling a hiss or a whistle.

Getting ready to head out to get back under the car. I'm going to pull the J-pipe to fix the bolt that backed out of the primary cat and see if I can figure out a way to get the hanger to sit correctly. Best care scenario is I get both fixed and somehow the noise goes away......but, I can't be that lucky. The drive back will be interesting since it's below 30 today and I'll be driving Ace Ventura style to see what I can hear.

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

Thanks greco. Not sure if what I am hearing is a rasp really. At least, it's not like some of the exhaust sound clips I've listened to here that clearly have a rasp to them.

Thanks for the tip on the resonator. I was thinking test pipe or hf 3rd cat. I guess the test pipe would be similar but a dedicated resonator would probably be more effective. Still have to look into this assuming I decide to change the setup.

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

So I got back under the car today to fix the bolt that had backed out of the front primary cat and see if I could get the j-pipe hanger to sit closer to its stock position. It didn't go well.....

First thing I did was unbolt the j-pipe from the primary cats. When I unbolted the front collector, the rear bolt on the side that has two bolts pulled completely out of the cat with the nut still attached (note: the front bolt on that side was the one I originally had back out about half way when I did the install yesterday). This should have been my first sign that this was not going to be a good day.

So now I have one of the studs completely out and the originally backed out stud still about half way out of the cat. The one that came all the way out I could easily put back in by hand to the point it bottomed out on the smooth center section between the upper and lower threads. But, the one that I had an issue with yesterday wasn't budging. I tried the double nut but both kept turning together. I ended up getting the nuts all the way onto the threads up to the center section and the bolt began to tighten into the cat. But, it was super tight and after hearing a couple "pops" I knew I was screwed. As soon as I started backing it back out I could see the threads on the stud had sheared off. F&ck me!

So, knowing I would have to put this all back together with only 2 bolts on the front collector I ran out and picked up some Permatex Ultra Copper gasket maker. I ran a bead around the flange hoping this would provide at least a little extra protection. Not sure if it's a good idea, but I put the gasket maker on top of the gasket that came with the j-pipe (the bolt hole around the stripped bolt was a little burred and I wanted to leave the gasket in there hoping it would help reduce any damage to the j-pipe flange). Put everything back together and started it up. Surprisingly, I couldn't hear any real leaking......sounded like it did before I decided to completely screw things up.

Any comments/insight on this are welcome. I already know I'm a moron so those comments are already implied

That's actually the short version if you can believe it. Anyway, I'd also like some advice on what to do next. Right now I'm planning on taking it to the dealer in the morning because I may actually have to have the front cat replaced ($$). I couldn't get a good read on how damaged the threads in the cat flange are so I'm not sure if only a new stud will fix things. Also, considering I don't have a 3rd cat on there anymore, will the dealer even work on it?

Thanks guys.......sorry for another ridiculously long post but it's been a frustrating day. Any help/advice you can provide would be great. I always like to hear what you guys have to say before dealing with a mechanic or the dealer.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

in response to your pm, let me start from the top

the 6 studs on the precats, depending on the year of the car, should have been replaced
16 in the diagram part # 90065-PG6-000 LIST PRICE: $4 need 6



rubber bushing/hanger... if it is crushed it means its dead meaning that the rubber has detiriorated... also the noise you hear might be a rattle at this very location
8 in the diagram part # 18215-SEP-A01 LIST PRICE: $8



about the hissing the above should take care of it

as for the drone, give it a couple more days, it'll quiet down a little

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

as far as replacing the cat goes... negative... it is not a stud welded to the cat

honda is much smarter than that... they know the weather will seize these studs...

so they made it a dual threaded stud if lets say you damaged the thread on the actual flange of the precat... a rethread is really not necessary you jsut run a flat stud from the top and a bolt on the bottom, the problem will be is you will have to remove the heatshield around the cat to get access to it

I need pictures of the problem tho in order to make little notes on the actuall problem to help you better

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the quick response Al, this is the kind of info I need.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

you wont get a new cat from the dealer...

the only way to get those studs out is using the double locking nut trick

can't remember which way it was...
bottom to bottom
or top to top

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

I wasn't thinking they would "give" me a new one. More that they would insist I get a new one given the threads in the flange may be sheared or just because they are a dealership. As of now, my plan is to take it in tomorrow morning. Unfortunately, I don't have a good shop that I trust to take it to so I figure this is the lesser of two evils since they at least see these cars regularly. I am curious to see how much crap they're going to give me for the aftermarket stuff.....or, if they'll work on it at all.

I definitely didn't do the double nut method correctly because they both just kept turning when I tried. Of course, that should have also been a sign that it wasn't going to end well. Nice diagrams btw.

I just had a friend do some light revs on the engine (about 3.5k max) while I laid under the front near the forward j-pipe collector. I didn't hear anything that sounded like a leak but in my (limited) experience, things behave differently under load as compared to sitting in neutral. Like I said before, right now it sounds exaclty like it did yesterday......before I decided to take a stud out of the equation.......maybe the gasket maker is doing what I hoped it would.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

you got it the only way to really find a leak when the car isn't moving is to brake torque it... and I wouldn't stand infront of a car that is being brake torqued (unless both wheels were off the ground)

good luck... maybe the dealer will only charge you a fair hourly rate rather than the ripoff they would've

almost kind of defeated the purpose of you attacking it yourself since you could've taken it in anyway

ssmtl2nv

iTrader: (2)

common problem, but repairable..., I have 2 aero's but am retiring for COMPSEX....

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the time Al. I guess I'm going to have to chalk this one up to a learning experience. I'm by no means a master mechanic, I've done several installs of both performance (like this stuff) and aesthetic mods, but this is the first time I've ever had anything like this happen. Lately I've had some bad luck with mods yet for some reason I keep going back for more.

If anybody has anything to add on any of the at least 50 questions I posted in this thread, please feel free. Thanks again.

Bearcat94

For better or worse, I don't have any meaningful advice to offer - I have not had a similar problem, so have not learned how to solve what your are experiencing.

Seems to me that Al is on the right track.

Re: the dealer. Worst they can do is say no OR charge a $100 an hour and not be able to fix it. Re-threading the bolt hole (if necessary) should be pretty straight forward for a competent shop - choose carefully, you don't need another problem.

GL. Keep us posted.

BTW - the rasp, I am not sure about, but there can be a little drone if the gear is high and the revs are low.

free598

did u get ur comptech yet

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

Definitely need this day to be done. Just spilled half a beer on my laptop. Luckily, a friend of mine is at my place so she let me use hers to work on a few things. Hoping that it still works once it dries out.

Anyway, I'll see what the dealer says in the morning. If they give me a hard time I'll have to find a shop in the area to take it to. The only good thing is that there isn't any "noticeable" problem with it right now. When I drove it back to my place, I didn't hear or feel anything different than the day before. I can't imagine a missing bolt in the front primary is good, but at least it's drive-able. Just going to be easy on it until I can get it fixed.

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

I don't have any rasp, at least that I've noticed. Just a lot of drone. Like you said, it's worse in a higher gear at low rpm. Also bad, for my preference anyway, in the 2k and 3k range under normal acceleration through the gears. I'll look into tweaking the tone once the rest is fixed. It does sound extremely nice going through the gears under hard acceleration.

I forgot to mention this while I was trying to figure out what was going on, but, the problems I had aren't related to the ATLP products. Just a couple poor judgment calls on my part and some bad luck. The parts themselves are great quality.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

dont go and let the dealer work on ur car first...

do this, get an estimate for the total price, then once they give you the price make sure it includes all new precat studs for all 6 of them

once you get them giving you a high price, tell them to cut it in half since its only gonna take 30mins for them to redo 6 studs...

I wouldn't fathom the idea of paying more than $65 to redo all 6 studs

the hanger for the jpipe you can do yourself later...

I just noticed ur car was an S... the hanger part # I posted was for a non S

pretty sure the hanger you currently have is nothing wrong with it since ur car is fairly new

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

I'll see what they say once I explain to them what I want. I wasn't going to have them replace all of the studs but I think you're right, I should have that done. It's just going to be a question of how bad the hole is that I sheared the bolt out of. I also need to make sure they smooth out the flange around that hole. It was bulged slightly after the bolt sheared off which was why I reused the gasket on top of adding the gasket maker. Tried to limit any damage to the j-pipe flange.

Al, or anybody, do you know what the difference is between the Base and Type-S hanger? Is it interchangeable? I wonder if I used the Base hanger if it would line up better with the j-pipe hanger rod since the j-pipe was designed off the Base, if I recall correctly. Like I said, the hanger/bushing itself is fine as far as the material goes. It's just that with the angle of the j-pipe hanger rod, the bushing is compressed instead of hanging naturally. I'll work on getting a pic posted once I finish dealing with the main issue.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

yes please get a pic, I am starting to beleive your hanging point might be bent from shipping or something

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

Car is in the shop. Ended up taking it to a tire/exhaust place I went to a couple times in the past for my truck. First option they offered, like has been said already, was to just run a bolt through the flanges to make the connection. I asked about re-threading the pre-cat flange and putting a new stud in. Obviously it's doable but he said he'd look have to look at it to see if that's the best option. Told him I wanted to have a new stud installed and to give me a call if he had problems doing it. Now, just have to wait.

Asked them to bend the j-pipe hanger rod also while they're working on it. Talked to Mike and he said that would be the easiest fix for my hanger issue.

Also, I'm starting to thing the squeal I am hearing (#3) in my original post, may actually be the intake afterall. I need to read up on that some more to make sure though. Seems odd that I never heard this until installing the exhaust stuff. Not sure how I wouldn't have heard it before since the intake has been on the car for a few months already.

I'll let you guys know what happens.

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

Picked the car up from the shop this afternoon. He was able to retap the flange hole and install a new stud on the front pre-cat. Also heated up the hanger rod to bend it to a better angle to mate with the hanger bushing. Got the impression that it went easier than he originally anticipated which is always a good thing. When I get a chance to get it back over to my garage I'll get back under it and take a closer look but right now I'm just relieved to have it fixed.

Thanks a lot to those who offered input on this, especially Al and Mike (via email). In the end it turned out to be a reasonably simple fix but, as I'm sure some people have experienced for themselves, right after I had done it I was a little freaked. Like I said, I don't have the mechanical experience or tool access some others here have.

Also, and I meant to make this clear in the original post, the issues I had were self-inflicted and not a problem with the ATLP parts. Other than the j-pipe hanger, which was a quick fix, everything fit great and the quality of the parts is top notch.

Now, I can finally start enjoying this system. Going to give it at least a few weeks before deciding whether to try and tame it a little. Funny thing is that after I picked the car up, I headed back to my office. It's a 5-story building in an office park and people said they heard me coming from their desks before I even turned into the parking lot....maybe I won't tone it down afterall.

Sal's Type S

iTrader: (1)

when I first got my ATLP J pipe it also hissed almost like a tuebo wine. What i saw when I had it up in the air 3 week later when I installed the rest of the ATLP cat back sytem (came in later plus also had it polished) was that the flex pipe had litaraly came undone from the inside out. This is what was causing that, Mike at ATLP took care of me and exchanged it for me. After the install with new J-pipe hiss is gone it actually sounds quieter to me than with the stock J-pipe and ATLP cat back.

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

^ That's the first problem with the ATLP J-pipe I've heard of so far. Was Mike able to figure out what caused this? Seems strange that it would "come undone" inside. Lucky you were back under the car putting on the catback and saw this. I'd like to hear more info on this, if there is any.

Sal's Type S

iTrader: (1)

Mike told me its the first one he has seen do this, I think the RV6 has had this problem as well. But all is well now Mike took care of everything he even paid for shipping back and forth to him. As for the cause it was a manufacturer defect.

NedShneebly

Sal & Jweb,

I have a hiss from my j-pipe (RV6), more like crickets chirping at around 1750 rpms. Also get what sounds like exhaust air escaping (inside cabin) when I step on the gas. I've checked every bolt from the pre-cats to the cat-back cans - all secure.

Is there a sure way to tell if it's the flex pipe? Flex pipe seams intact, maybe a little more bloated than I remember. Had j-pipe, pre-cats and test pipe on for about 6 months now.

jweb12

iTrader: (2)

Are you absolutely sure it's not your intake?

If you're sure it's the j-pipe, have you talked to Richie about it? I've never dealt with him but from what I've heard here, he's very good at providing support for this products.

NedShneebly

Been speaking with Rich and he's defintely been fully supportive. Just have to find what's broken and remove it.

Whatever was making noise finally fell apart last night. Now my car sounds like an '84 Pinto with a completely rusted out muffler

Timb227

iTrader: (3)

Okay, going to bring back an old thread. I have searched but havn't found my answer.

I will be installing a base ATLP exhaust tomorrow. I have three gaskets, and there will be four connections. 2 for the mufflers, the two straight pipes from ATLP and one going into the stock cat.

Are the gaskets for the two mufflers and the connection of the two straight pipes? or both mufflers and where it connects to the stock cat?

NedShneebly

man, I don't really recall. I know all the gaskets match up. Rich is really good about supplying proper hardware.