i love seeing mods and the accompanying dynos, but how come this was posted in the flashpro thread? are you running a modified version of it, if not you should let people know in your description this is without flashpro otherwise people will get excited thinking someone did this for a non 07-08 ECU.

i like seeing posted numbers though

 

yes... someone else with mustang dyno numbers.

 

The car is running flashpro, read this thread (pages 3-4):
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=885236&page=4

 

subscribed

 

08 base here with flashpro. Purchased my Flashpro and E-tunes from Vit so I've been getting it tuned by him for 2 weeks now.

I'm going to a dyno day on Sunday so I'll post my results for those who are curious.

Unfortunately I do not have a base line dyno prior to having Flashpro, so there's no telling how much I gained. Couldn't find a dyno day for several months and when I started tuning with flashpro a dyno day popped up.

2008 Base Auto - 77k miles

rv6 v3 PCDs
rv6 v3 J-Pipe
ATLP Quads
InjenCAI

My guess would be ~230whp

The car drives a hell of alot better and more smoother while accelerating

 

Ask him to take your first baseline and do an e-dyno for your first datalog and new datalog.

 

I'm assuming your talking about Vit? He did give me a e-dyno last week. This was a dyno using 2 data logs from 2 separate calibrations.

Calibration 1.9 and 1.9.1

I don't know of a perfectly smooth flawless straight road that will let me accelerate from 2nd gear 2k rpm until redline. The road I found seemed pretty smooth and straight to me, but the graph shows otherwise

I really don't like the e-dyno because it isn't consistent and has fluctuations all over the place. Because of that, I kind of doubt the numbers are accurate.

 

I just got my Launch control all figured out and setup as well. Glad they are taking care of the small bugs.

 

My car

08 3.2L automatic with Flash Pro (E-Tunes with VitTuned), PCDs, Jpipe, ATLP quads, Injen CAI



A buddys car NBP_Baller

07 3.2L automatic only mod is XLR8 quads

 

How long did you wait to get the first calibration. From vitt

 

Not long at all. He only works Monday-Fridays so he'll give you a starting calibration when you have flashpro locked to your vehicle and flashpro manager installed.

I got my flashpro unit friday and didn't get home until night time so I didn't get my first calibration until monday morning.

 

K. I just got the ultimate tune if that the name I already have the flashpro with the last update

 

263.5 with vittuned edyno after tuning.

 

^ Now say if you go to the dyno, the peak numbers that you can't get on the street, you can on the dyno. You may see 265 with a little tweaking.

 

This is my Edyno from vittuned

 

Can you find out if Vit adjusted timing too?

 

K I ask.

 

this is from vit

I tune everything, that includes timing of course

 

Interesting, I'm curious how he is doing this.

 

i had my car dyno tuned last june men but i did nt like the way the car ride but now is like a new car

 

What do you mean by that? The flash pro manager allows you to adjust ignition timing. Anyone can do it

 

How much did you pay to get it dyno tuned? Total cost?

Also you should get your car dynod like I did to see how accurate e dyno is.

 

I'm well aware that anyone can do it.

Enjoy a short read I dug up while researching dyno tuning vs remote tuning:

Ignition timing is absolutely crucial and can only be set properly by accurate dyno data. Anything else is either dangerous or a compromise. Here's an excerpt from the white paper relating to this:
Populating an ignition table

This is the point where most amateurs fall down, and amongst professionals this is the aspect that tends to sort the wheat from the chaff.

The process of populating an ignition table accurately is a delicate one requiring a high degree of skill, a deep level of technical understanding and above all very sensitive measuring equipment.

To set ignition advance accurately the engine should be connected to a load control dynamometer; a device that can restrict and control the engines speed at the same time as returning live output readings to the calibrator.

The basic process goes like this

1. With the engine running at a fixed load and being held a fixed speed by the dyno, the calibrator will input ignition advance values that are deliberately too retarded to the appropriate area of the ignition table, this is to say that the spark event will be being deliberately fired too late in the cycle. Because of this the peak cylinder pressure point will be happening at a point also too late in the cycle, the result is a low output from the engine.

2. The calibrator will then slowly advance the ignition event in the engine cycle whilst critically keeping all other variables as constant as possible

3. As the ignition event is gradually advanced, the output readings coming from the dyno will rise and rise as the combustion event becomes more and more efficient.

4. As the timing of the peak cylinder pressure approaches the point in the cycle at which the piston and rod gain mechanical advantage over the crankshaft, the gains in output seen by the calibrator with each incremental movement in ignition advance will reduce until there is no gain at all, at this point the ignition timing is said to be set at minimum best timing or “MBT”.

5. At this point the job is done, at least for this one cell on the table, the calibrator now must visit every cell in the table by varying the engine speed bit by bit and the engine load bit by bit, the whole time being sure to control all other variables which might inadvertently affect the engines output and so skew the results or the continuous testing.

This is how it should be done, only after following this procedure is an ecu calibrator 100% sure what the ignition advance values need to be at all of the various areas of the table, in short you can’t tell the engine instead you must ask it.

Here's another excerpt:
In Summary

• It is very important never to guess whilst tuning an engine. To avoid guessing we must make real life measurements to use as vital feedback for confirming the accuracy of changes that are being made. A motor output measurement device is called a dynamometer, a good dyno system removes the need for any guesswork.

• Even an experienced professional ECU calibration engineer needs good quality measurement equipment in order to do good work. Regardless of any talent or experience the calibrator may have if they cannot accurately measure, then they are guessing.

• It is important to tune all of the areas of an ecu’s map. Some areas of the maps will rarely be used in day to day operation but these area’s still have the ability to damage your engine when they are found if they are ignored or guessed at. A load control dyno allows an operator to slowly and calmly explore all of the areas of a map.

• In order to reduce overall cost’s it is crucial that an ECU calibration is carried out by a knowledgeable and experienced professional, ECU calibration is a far larger subject than this basic guide may suggest. Whilst sometimes cheaper up front amateur ECU calibrators can be easily lured into making very costly mistakes, often just by having inadequate knowledge of the complex processes involved and the often far reaching effects of the decisions they are making.

• It is crucial to not put any body in mortal danger for the sake of car tuning, there are no good reasons to tune an ecu on the road.

The important thing is for members to understand the limitations of various methods in order to make informed decisions

Just some stuff to think about before deciding to get a remote tune is all.

 

Any more updates? I am about to purchase the Hondata Flashpro for my 08 TL type S M/T. I had it with my Civic Si 6 speed and it was very good. I will have it tuned by a local tuner here that tunes Acura/Honda.

 

your dyno and my dyno are the same. Low Hp, but i have a Type S so my peak HP is 244

 

Why did this thread die?

 

Nobody watered it

 

You better buy one and document the hell out of the process J!

 

 

i think it died down because it was pretty new at that time so there was a lot of learning and questions about it, but now it's been out a while and once you get your calibration all set you don't touch it at all. so i think a bunch of us got it, were trying to figure it out, got it dialed in, and just left it alone since then.

dom does most of the tunes on here (even for the turbo TL cars) and i highly recommend him! i also got tuned by vit which was good but i like dom's tune better and dom's tune seemed more custom for me than vit (vit's good at what he does but i feel dom went that extra mile since he knows the TL so well). i did virtual dynos on both tunes and dom's came out a little bit higher on hp (which probably doesn't mean much since the virtual dyno is just an estimate but it gives me a better feel)

 

How much is Dom?
What's his support like?

For a guy reading up on it, hitting these threads where it's just a bunch of repeated "oh yeah, it definitely feels like its more smooth, some issues you've had...it doesn't really inspire to plop the cash down since I feel like my car now is driving smoothly, there's no launch issue or troubleshooting...

that whole af thing in every gear etc post had my head spinning...I feel like I wanna leave well enough alone.

Main reason I'm even considering is to lose the rev hang and maybe bump idle up to compensate for the motor mounts.

 

Doooooooooooooooooiiiiiiittttttttttttt

 

Well, Ivo sacked up before I did...so I'll probably drive his car and see how it feels, if he'll be as kind. I already drove it UNtuned...so I'd be curious.

 

Let's do a Kickstarter for J's FP & tune...

 

I'm using Dom for my break in tune and he will also retune for me after I put the turbo back in.

He had my car running great with only a handful of iterations. My transmission decided to go south on me so I haven't had a chance to finish. Hopefully will be back at it in a couple weeks after some parts arrive.

I can't comment on his current price and what's included, but I am very satisfied with both the cost and the service.

 

To answer your questions I had my car tuned by Dom (mostly done, but still a little incomplete) and then Dyno tuned

Here is a dyno of his tune vs dyno tune.

Dom was the dotted line and dyno tune was the solid. Keep in mind that my power tune was far from done, I was focusing more on part throttle at the time because the city decided to beef up secure and ticket more people.



Biggest gain I saw was 10whp/10wtq at 1 point on the graph. Besides that Dom map was making 1-3whp less than the dyno tune in certain area


I highly recommend him since he is pretty quick on the maps. About 1 day turnaround. On a good day you could probably get 2-3 maps done in a day. He pretty good on getting back to you on your question. I also did some few changes throughout the process to test out certain things and bolt on. He was more than willing to help.

 

Thanks for the feedback, fellas...
good info here, for follow up.

 

there's a few reasons why i chose a street tune (etune) over a dyno tune just for anyone looking to compare which route to go

- etune was much cheaper. dom costs about 100 bucks, vit was about the same, vs a dyno tune which i've seen quotes for about 300 and up.

- when i got flashpro it was brand new and most tuners weren't familiar with the TL application. my calibrations went through a lot of trial periods with dom and vit since there were still some flashpro bugs (i had about 120 calibrations between vit and dom)...now i'm assuming it would take less than 20 easily

- i don't race so i wanted to get something that was part-throttle based and daily driving based with some occasional redlines. i didn't mind not squeezing every hp out since i wanted more of an all-around tune

- i'm not familiar with any dyno tune shops around me and don't know who to trust to not blow up my car haha

- cost (again haha)

how much was your dyno tune?

did you change your fuel overrun cutoff delay from the stock settings? i played with this quite a bit but ended up only shortening them a little bit from stock. i think dom put his at a minimum

what's your vtec set at? did the shop change it at all?

there's also a check box for the "overrun throttle opening enabled", do you have this unchecked? dom suggested unchecking this to prevent any bucking at low rpms (it was a recent addition by hondata to address the bucking issues with our car)

 

brother, that's exactly what I gathered, it seemed like this thread was all hot and heavy (along with a few more) during a time when you were still working through the kinks I wouldn't be willing to go through. So for that, and other pioneers, I thank you. If it's a true plug and play, safe thing to do...I'm probably in. Again, I need to lose that rev hang and raise idle, lose this little stutter down low...gain power and smoother vtec.

Sounds great so it's nice to read about...100 dollar etune for cost and convenience are a major selling point to me. $300-600 for a dyno tune repeatedly...turns me off because I'm not in a position to explain those types of expenses to my wife. She wouldn't be pleased, and I can't blame her.

My car dyno'd already on one of those portable dyno's (not sure how accurate) in Ohio climate at 303 WHP. I have since brought it to FLorida, and changed from PCD to HFCP (couldn't deal with the rasp, definitely noticed a little off the top end)....so I'd be curious how much extra I could squeeze out. As it stands, the motor sounds healthy, happy and always feels like it has more to give when you press that right pedal. We shall see...

 

@ sockr1

Dyno tuned costed 425 an was a 5 hour drive for me.

They did check some of the injector setting at idle and a few other things. Vtec point was changed, but the car didn't like it for some reason so it was bought back to 4900.

I would have to look at my mapping again to see if the box was check. I currently don't have my car because I was having issue with the stupid turbo installation. (see turbo build cheap thread)

If you have an open field or something to do high speed 3-4th gear pull Dom is definitely worth it. That just isn't an option for me anymore sadly..

Also if you notice in my sig I have it tuned by IMW and Dom. IMW for sure made 253/218 on that setup, Then i changed out my j-pipe to the longer version and made my exhaust flange larger 2.0in to 2.5in. When dom was street tuning it he saw that my AFR was going lean. So he had to add more fuel to keep the car happy. So realistically, I have no idea what it was making with Dom's updates. So I left it as +/+