I am wondering if anyone has gone this route and if so could you chime in. Is there a whistle with the spacer? If so no biggie as I kinda like it. (Installed on old car) Would there be any difference between this and the p2r? Sorry or starting a new thread as I have used the search button many times but only come up with p2r info. Thanks in advance for any help everyone

 

^^^ linkie to the ebay item ?

but yeah it does matter a little....depends on the bore diameter and the TB size....

I went from P2R which has a 65mm bore and 3/4" thick to Moores Performance which is 1" thick and 70mm bore and did feel some gains....

very minimal gains but my butt doesnt lie....maybe my mind was playing trick but i liked it....

 

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl.../photo_04.html

BTW: Dynos that don't come from the seller are the ONLY ones worth trusting. It's VERY easy to fudge dyno results.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ACCORD...item3f1343e9be

This is the spacer that comes up. Also finds p2r. Just want to make sure its quality before I put it on my car. I installed an ebay spacer on my truck and it has worked great

 

I wouldn't trust it, but that's just me. Never seen a TBS use a rubber gasket instead of the actual gasket piece. Maybe it's the same, IDK but it looks cheap. It says aluminum but it looks plastic lol.

Doesn't look like he sells much either, only 12 feedback

 

That's what I was thinking as well. Thanks for all the replies. P2r it is.

 

Think about it this way....

If the throttle is wide open (100%), then what is the REAL difference a TB spacer makes? The answer is none whatsoever. Perhaps it just feels faster cause your wallet is lighter...

 

If you have $100 worth of loose change in your car which you use to buy the spacer, then your car will be faster, but if you pull a $100 bill from your wallet to pay for it, then it won't.

 

The lighter the wallet the more accurate the butt dyno.

The only HP mod that runs contrary to this rule is stickers; the exception that proves the rule.

 

I kind of disagree here....

1st you cant compare the TL to the Jeep....

Heatsoak is TL's enemy and we all agree with that....if you live in a super cold place and dont wanna do the coolant bypass, I suggest this mod as it will keep the TB cooler and hence prevent your ECU from pulling the timing....

Yes, if you have done all the mods (coolant bypass, UCM, etc etc) I agree this wont make as much power....again think of it as the lightweight pulley....it wont make power, but will reduce the loss of robbed power....

the reason I made power from the TBS is coz I have a 70mm bore TB from Moores performance which is 5mm larger in diameter than P2R....my

 

Why do you think an aluminum spacer would insulate the throttle body? Aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat. If anything your increasing radiant metal surface area exposed to the intake charge. I understand cooling mods, but this has to do with a throttle spacer. Find me any all-motor competition build, drag road or otherwise that runs a throttle body spacer.

 

^^^ Lets take this into a different direction....so how does a TBS work ?

I do have a TBS and I did feel the difference in throttle response....not like i felt when i installed my PCD's but yes the throttle response was different (in a good way)....I also installed the gaskets hence reducing heat conductivity.....if you honestly dont have it installed and are biased against it, in that case i suggest installing one and if you dont like it, return it.....but if you have never used a TBS and will just vouch against it, not right....

 

I was going to stay out of this because 94eg covered it so well..... But I can't help myself respond to what looks like a manufacturer's claim. I'll start from the top...

How does a spacer allow more air to enter your engine? You've just increased the length of the smallest part of your intake tract.

We have to understand the purpose of the throttlebody. The throttlebody restricts airflow at partial throttle, this is it's only job, a valve to restrict airflow. This is how power is controlled from idle to full throttle. Remove the throttlebody and you would be at full throttle all the time diesel style.

At full throttle, the butterfly is fully open, the throttlebody is just a pipe at that point. It's no different than the rubber hose to the air filter as far as the engine is concerned. All you've done is make the bottleneck of the system an inch longer.

If you want to see how much of a restriction the entire intake tract is from the TB to the air filter, take a MAP reading at full throttle. Vacuum should be very close to zero.

Velocity into the plenum is irrelevant to making power or mpg or anything. Velocity through the throttle plate is at it's highest when you're at idle and the TB is mostly closed and vacuum is at it's highest. Velocity is only important when the air reaches the runners and most important in the intake port of the heads. You want the lowest possible vacuum in the intake at full throttle which leads me to the next point:

Let's define "vacuum response". Answer, there's no such thing, it's a made up term.

TBI usually stands for throttle body injection, no idea how they're using it here but ours are port injected.

The spacer does not increase runner length, only plenum volume but a 3/4" piece of metal is what, 1% of the total plenum volume. Once the plenum is big enough for even air distribution, you can double the size and it will have no effect other than slower throttle response.

Having the throttle-body farther from the cylinders reduces throttle response. Probably not measurable at only 3/4" though.

Port fuel injected cars are of the dry flow manifold type. There is not fuel in the air until it hits the head port. That whole crazy thing about keeping fuel from bouncing back up and scattering is wrong in a carbureted or TBI setup but it's impossible in a setup like ours that has no fuel in the air at that point.

And just to hit on temperatures... Do you think that air moving over 100mph will pick up any measurable heat from a 3" long 3" diameter pipe? Not happening. Besides that, most of the heat comes from the coolant through the TB and second from underhood temps, not from transfer through the intake manifold. Mine with the coolant bypass is cool to the touch and I would never waste money on a spacer.

 

^^^ IHC, knowing something and having something is a little different (there is a difference between knowing the path and walking the path)....there were many times you thought something will work coz of your past experience as well as knowledge on how things work, but it doesnt exactly turn out the same way and then you say "ohhh ok, now that is why this happens"....

how about this....my car is the garage queen right now....will send you my TBS and gaskets via USPS priority ($5)....hold onto it for a week....install it and see how you feel....if you feel any difference in throttle response, etc and send it back to me after a week via USPS ($5)....got nothing to loose but 5 bucks

PS: I read this post over and over again to make sure I wasnt rude....I apologize if I was....vocabulary is not my best friend....also if you like the gains and wanna keep the TBS and gaskets, will let you know my paypal id or where to buy them from LOL....

Am very serious about this....PM me your shipping address and will send it your way....only coz i trust you and felt the gains from a TBS....